Building an Alembic with Optional Offset Column Hybrid

[AlChemE]

Really nice.

Three way valve on the top of the vapor supply manifold would let ya pot still or run the column without having to break anything down.

Though that would likely mess up your space saving adjustability.

Thanks! I thought about using a three way valve, but wasn't able to justify an extra $55. Also, think I'd need another valve for the top of the dephleg so that vapor doesn't work it's way down the column as well. I figured it's a balance of form and function, which is why I intentionally didn't add temperature gauges and other add-ons. It might require some additional set-up but I think that's part of the fun.

[rgreen2002]

AL,
Do you have any other pictures of how you created your lid. I'm getting ready to get at this project and I want to mount a 4-inch ferrule within the lid. After that (and of course the internal element port, I plan on fixing the lid to the pot permanently. How did you get the "collar" of copper around the TC flange in this picture:

Collar

lid.jpg (15.96 KiB) Viewed 2658 times

I'm thinking it may have been this way: How to solder fittings to pots or kegs

Thanks...

[AlChemE]

AL,
Do you have any other pictures of how you created your lid. I'm getting ready to get at this project and I want to mount a 4-inch ferrule within the lid. After that (and of course the internal element port, I plan on fixing the lid to the pot permanently. How did you get the "collar" of copper around the TC flange in this picture:

The attachment lid.jpg is no longer available

I'm thinking it may have been this way: How to solder fittings to pots or kegs

Thanks...

I had a 3" DWV copper pipe that fit over the ferrule. I imagine you could use copper sheet and bend it around your 4" ferrule. I then TIG welded the copper and ferrule together. It took a lot of time cleaning it up and polishing. If you don't have a TIG welder, you can also use special flux and solder. I've had success with tinning flux that you can pick up at the home improvement store.

I then made a copper ring to go over the copper pipe. I drilled a hold in the lid, put the pipe through it and 'tack soldered' it in place so it wouldn't move too much. The hard part is making the triangular gussets to fit on the inside of the lid. I think the lid needs these gussets since there won't be too much solder holding it together where the pipe goes through the lid. Once I made 4 gussets, I heavily soldered everything copper together. I really wish I had taken a picture of the lid, but this drawing might help a little.

Have fun! Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

boiler lid.png (10.74 KiB) Viewed 2644 times

[rgreen2002]

Thanks Al...

That copper ring gives me a good idea if I mess up my planned attack...

Just waiting for a few parts and Hopefully, I can get this started/done over the weekend!

[AlChemE]

Set the still up to try the third configuration - Column Only. Filled the boiler with Birdwatchers sugar wash to do a neutral run. This thing performed like a champ! Solid 94% abv with 35% low wines in the boiler.

My stove is just barely able to supply enough heat to power this thing though. I'm thinking about making an insulation jacket for the boiler....

[cede]

Just read the whole thread.
Thumbs up !

I've always been shy to try to tig copper to stainless, but will give a a try sooner or later.

[Appalachian spirits]

Wow......NICE job. That thing is beautiful

[AlChemE]

Wanted to share what I've been working on lately. I ran 30A 220V to my basement and installed a twist lock receptacle. I saved this nice stainless workbench from going into the dumpster at work. Then I searched online for a free stove that someone was getting rid of, picked it up and ripped all the controls, elements, wires, lights, etc out of it. I then called up a scrapper to come by and haul off the shell for free. Then all it took was a 8" hold to be cut into the workbench, and a smaller hole for the heat control knob. Connect it all together in a junction box and test it.

My test run went excellent! It took awhile to heat up (as expected) but was producing a steady stream during my stripping run. I think the thermal mass of the boiler heat sink buffers out the heat flux due to the on/off nature of the infinite switch.

Looking ahead I have a small fan-cooled radiator that I'm going to mount underneath the workbench to cool the cooling water since I'm using a closed loop system.

[Beerswimmer]

Beautiful work!

[blizzstill]

Nice work, looks like a pro alembic!

Was wondering, the return pipe at the bottom of your column, does it need to go all the way down to the kettle in order to prevent vapor coming out of it directly into the column?

[LWTCS]

Nice work, looks like a pro alembic!

Was wondering, the return pipe at the bottom of your column, does it need to go all the way down to the kettle in order to prevent vapor coming out of it directly into the column?

Yes.

[blizzstill]

Nice work, looks like a pro alembic!

Was wondering, the return pipe at the bottom of your column, does it need to go all the way down to the kettle in order to prevent vapor coming out of it directly into the column?

Yes.

So it goes to the very bottom of the kettle? How does the liquid returning through that pipe blend well with the liquid in the kettle ?

Sorry if my question sound dumb. Just trying to figure out that part

[Corsaire]

I think the boiling agitates everything so it mixes automatically. Thanks for bringing this topic up, this still's a beauty.

[LWTCS]

And besides, for our purposes mixing back with the remaining kettle charge is just not an important thing to focus on.
If there is any alcohol returning, (and there will be with a five plater) the optimal goal/behavior would be to get returning alcohol to flash off as fast as possible.

[Fredistiller]

Well balanced design and Very nice job!