Thanks, that's the best price I have seen.... even with almost $20 for shipping, that's better than anything I've found even for a 3/4" valve.bluefish_dist wrote:You can get a ss gate valve 1" for $22 from still dragon.
VM valves
Moderator: Site Moderator
Re: VM valves
Everyone has to believe in something. Me? I believe I'll have another drink......
Re: VM valves
Cob - no, I had not read that thread. Very interesting, I have never seen the movable reflux condenser idea. Certainly food for thought, I will study it some more. Thanks for pointing it out to me.cob wrote:have you read this thread about CCVM? viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41579
Everyone has to believe in something. Me? I believe I'll have another drink......
-
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3272
- Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2015 11:59 am
- Location: Pacific Northwest
Re: VM valves
If you don't need to strip faster then it sounds like you are good to go. I guess there is always a bottleneck somewhere, and they don't always need fixin.FL Brewer wrote:On the condenser... I really think 1/2 is enough; I run a CM column now, and I'm really not looking for faster running, I only got he big burner because it was taking 2 hours to bring my stripping run to a boil. I don't think I'll ever be running that burner anywhere near full out when I'm running, even stripping.... would probably scorch the wash. if I did that anyway. I was planning on a 24" liebig, but it's no more work and only a little more cost to make it 36", so I'll probably go with that.
I must have be thinking of a different, yet similar, thread where I mentioned this to someone building a new VM column. This may still be applicable to you. I was recommending that the VM takeoff port/valve be located on the Left side of your column (as you are looking at it) and assuming the liebig is pointed toward you. I think almost every diagram I have seen of a VM still shows the takeoff on the right. The reason for the left hand side recommendation is that it will help keep your liebig in the correct position, using gravity to actively keep your threaded attachments tight. I'm talking about the threads on the valve itself, not your Union fitting. With the port on the right and a slanted liebig, gravity wants to loosen your threaded valve connection. This is not as big of an issue for a new still, but after taking the valve off and on a few times, those threaded stop positions become an all or nothing stop, and they loosen much easier. I hope this makes sense.FL Brewer wrote:.... and I think I'm missing what you're getting at with saying put the valve on the left.....
I'm including a picture of my INCORRECTLY positioned VM port on my 2" column. Yes, I could turn my column 180 degrees and re-position my liebig, but then I can't read the thermometer and I would need to re-sweat my column threads to re-position my valve to point the other direction.
Otis’ Pot and Thumper, Dimroth Condenser: Pot-n-Thumper/Dimroth
Learning to Toast: Toasting Wood
Polishing Spirits with Fruitwood: Fruitwood
Badmotivator’s Barrels: Badmo Barrels
Learning to Toast: Toasting Wood
Polishing Spirits with Fruitwood: Fruitwood
Badmotivator’s Barrels: Badmo Barrels
Re: VM valves
Ah, I follow you now..... makes sense, and not something I would have though of.OtisT wrote:FL Brewer wrote: The reason for the left hand side recommendation is that it will help keep your liebig in the correct position, using gravity to actively keep your threaded attachments tight. I'm talking about the threads on the valve itself, not your Union fitting. With the port on the right and a slanted liebig, gravity wants to loosen your threaded valve connection.
Everyone has to believe in something. Me? I believe I'll have another drink......