New pot still build- 10gal brew kettle

[brewer24]

Hey everyone,

Hopefully this is the right forum for this. I wanted to start my build thread during it's planning stages, so I can ask some questions as they arise if I can't find answers.
I've been reading as much as I can for weeks, as I've been paying off some other expenses before jumping and buying some copper.

I currently live in an apartment, so this still is going to run on my electric stove. I'm a homebrewer, and it can handle 8 gallons of wort so it shouldn't have any problems with 5 gallon batches of wash.

The boiler is going to be my Spike 10 gallon stainless brew kettle:


As you can see it has a drain valve which will be useful, and a thermometer at the bottom (not sure if this will be of any use yet). I'm going to to build the column and condenser, and have never soldered copper before so I'll have to learn that.

I'm interested in making whisky and maybe rum, so it will be a simple pot still with a liebig condenser. Right now my plan is this:
1" column, 24" long
1" > 3/4" reducing elbow 90*
3/4" union
3/4" elbow 90*
3/4" inner product tube, 48" long
1" jacket, 48" long or whatever it ends up being after fitting to the inner length.

(I had a sketch, but I can't find it now)

I'm thinking 1" column, and 1" over 3/4" condenser, because I can easily buy those in 6' lengths from HD. That way I'll use all of the the most expensive piece, the 1" tube. I'm trying to find 1" x 3/4" x XX" reducing T's locally, but haven't found any so I may piece together a 1 x 1 x XX with a reducer.

I'm also still deciding on the best way to attach the column to the lid. My first plan was one of these:


And sticking the threaded portion through the hole, and fashioning some nuts by cutting up a female adapter fitting.

That cutting seems like somewhat of a pain, so my next though was to do a bolted end cap. If I use a 1" cap, I'll probably only have a 1/2" hole at the most. Is having a restriction like that a bad thing? I could add a reducer and a larger cap, but I haven't found larger easily available yet.

I also need most of the column to be removable from the lid, so I can still use it for brewing. I'm bouncing back and forth between friction fit/teflon tape the column into the adapter fitting, or if I add a union there as well.

It'll probably be a few weeks yet before I jump into this, so I've still got time to decide how I want to do it. Off to go read some more

[brewer24]

So I've bought most of my parts- discovered these handy little fittings called Street Elbows that one end fits into a fitting and the other accepts the tube- which will help me eliminate a joint. I'm sure that was obvious to some people but you never know who may read this. Works perfect for going fitting into the 3/4" union and then holding the long product tube.

I also found 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" reducing T's, so that problem's solved. I don't know why I couldn't find them on HD's website. I got some brass 3/4" sweat x 5/8" Pex to solder on to those and I'll clamp 5/8" vinyl hose on those to run my water. I couldn't find a 3/4"<1" 90* reducing elbow, so I went with a 1"x1" 90* elbow, and them a 3/4"<1" reducer/coupling/bushing thing (not sure on the terminology) one end fits into the 1" fitting, and the other accepts a 3/4" pipe. So I'll need a short length of pipe between that and the 3/4" union.

I'm now planning to solder on an end cap directly onto the lid, and then drilling through it after. I just ordered some Harris Stay brite flux to do that. I'm still not sure if I just want to just slip-fit the column into the cap, or use a 1" union. I figure I'll start with the cap and can always add the union after.

Hoping to get a start on assembling over the long weekend, maybe even have it all done except the copper-stainless joint. Just need to pick up fitting cleaning brushes, and maybe some sandpaper. I have some steel wool but I'm not sure if that will rough up the stainless enough.

[brewer24]

I've come across a few times recently in my readings, about stove cycling causing issues. It seems a common suggestion is to add a steel plate to help smooth out the differences from the burner. My kettle has a 5mm tri-clad bottom. Would this fill the same purpose as a plate, or do I need to look for something still? I guess I can always see how it goes as-is and decide if I need a plate.

I don't think the final assembly will fully happen this weekend, the first ebay seller of the stainless flux cancelled the order.

[Reverend Newer]

Using that brew kettle you will have no problem with stove cycling, as you said it comes with a bottom diffuser plate already to avoid hot spots or surges from the stove element.

Looks like you are doing your research, learning and going about things correctly.

Smart to solder the fitting on then drill the hole afterward, keep it up.

[Pikey]

You seem to be looking good.

I'd use one of these ;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tank-Connect ... T33jaYihqg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I believe they call them "Bulkhead connectors " in US - "Tank connectors" in UK. You'd need to make up a ptfe gasket instead of the rubber and also I'd get another olive and fit a short piece of copper tube with a stop end to use when you want to do "Brewing". Just unscrew the nut, swap the tubes over and do the nut up again. (oh and make sure your brass is "Lead free" - (ask the supplier to assure you of this) - mostly it is nowadays.

Also I think your 3/4 centre to your leibig might be a bit wide and could allow a little vapour to pass through without condensing. I'd think in terms of reducing to 1/2 somewhere within the length of the condenser, to minimise that risk - but then I haven't (as yet) run anything except a Dimroth so I don't really know.

[brewer24]

Thanks guys!

Using that brew kettle you will have no problem with stove cycling, as you said it comes with a bottom diffuser plate already to avoid hot spots or surges from the stove element.

Great to hear I know most recommend the keg route, but I figured I already have such a nice piece of hardware, and it's nice to find out it does have it's own advantages.

I'd use one of these ;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tank-Connect ... T33jaYihqg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I believe they call them "Bulkhead connectors " in US - "Tank connectors" in UK. You'd need to make up a ptfe gasket instead of the rubber and also I'd get another olive and fit a short piece of copper tube with a stop end to use when you want to do "Brewing". Just unscrew the nut, swap the tubes over and do the nut up again. (oh and make sure your brass is "Lead free" - (ask the supplier to assure you of this) - mostly it is nowadays.

Also I think your 3/4 centre to your leibig might be a bit wide and could allow a little vapour to pass through without condensing. I'd think in terms of reducing to 1/2 somewhere within the length of the condenser, to minimise that risk - but then I haven't (as yet) run anything except a Dimroth so I don't really know.

You know for the life of me I can't find a fitting like that around here. Every couple of weeks I go looking for something like that, and the closest I've found only has a 3/8" opening. I was also trying to avoid brass in the vapour path just for peace of mind, but I'll keep an eye out for the next week or so until I get around to doing that connection.

I've read in a few other threads that people have used or recommended the 1" over 3/4" so I thought it would be okay. The 48" length should help give all the vapour time to run into a wall. If I find it isn't quite all getting knocked down I could add a strip of copper inside to create turbulence right?

So many things to think about...