SCR 220v 10000watt problem

[Houdinih]

I purchased a SCR Controller like Jimbo used from eBay. I got it installed and wired up and when I turned on the power to the controller, The output was full line voltage to the 5500w element. With voltage on, there was no amp or voltage adjustment when turning the knob when checking voltage at the recpticle with the element hooked up. I’ve checked the resistance of the potentiometer and my flute meter shows ohms value changing with the turning of the knob. I also have an analog amp meter wired inline from the controller and the receptacle for the cable going to the element. It read 23amps with power on. Is the controller bad or am I missing something? I tried to use the google search to find an answer but was unsuccessful. Thanks for any help.

[acfixer69]

First we all don't know Jimbo's controller and don't know how you wired it in. When asking questions you need to at least link what you are talking about.

AC

[Pikey]

You cleary have it wired up wrong !

If the pot changes the input as you say it does, then the output must change. Unless you have the wires connected wrong.

Diagram and connections please ?

[Houdinih]

Here is a link to the controller I purchased.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/AC110V-220V-75A- ... SwMNxXa7cq" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I’ll work on getting pics uploaded of control box.
When power is applied the pot does nothing to change amps or volts going to element.
After I disconnect power and probe the potentiometer to check ohms it adjusts resistance.

[acfixer69]

I would guess you got a bad one. I got one for backup and wiring was 2 in & 2 out 220V

[Yummyrum]

Do you actually have the element connected or not .
There is always some leakage in a triac and with no load connected , a digital voltmeter ( due to its extremely high input impedance ) will measure voltage on the output regardless of knob setting .

[Houdinih]

The element is connected and heating up. The voltage at the element was the same as the line voltage. There is no change in voltage or amps with knob adjustment.

[Houdinih]

One White with black tape wire coming from controller output goes to analog meter then goes to receptacle going to element. The other white wire with black tape goes directly to recepticle.

[Expat]

Assuming that you have the SSR correctly wired in line with one of the hot legs of the circuit running to your element (and not bypassed)..... Assuming you have the correct POT for your controller... Then I think the answer is dead controller

[Mike6090]

So you are saying the potentiometer is working normally but the voltage is not ramping up or down and that It’s maxed out?

That would indicate there is a short somewhere and your power is bypassing the potentiometer. Make sure your hot wire isn’t touching anything but the lug on the potentiometer pot and power isn’t shorting to the heating element. You may have to use electrical tape or heat shrink if the contacts are in close proximity. The housing looks metal? If so it might be touching the wiring and causing a short.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

[Houdinih]

Mike 6090, that is correct the the voltage is maxed and the voltage is not adjusting when the pot is being rammed up or down with the element connected. The pot is the one that came with the controller. Could the pot be wired wrong? I copied the way the pot was originally wired just extended the wires. The center post of the pot is common and the outer pin is power? I’ve checked continuity using a meter before applying power and everything checked out. I’ll go over everything again. Thanks everyone for your input.

[Expat]

Wiring the pot backwards would only invert the function. I.e. what you would think is Zero is actually 100% but it would still work. Center+left/right would still result in the SCR doing something.

To confirm, the SCR is wired in line with one of the hot power legs correct? Red or black doesn't matter.

[Houdinih]

Yes the controller has two hot wires going to it.

[Expat]

That doesn't really answer my question.

To get 240v the element gets two hot leads (typically red and black).

Your controller needs to be connected in line with only one of these, not both. Is that the case?

[Houdinih]

Sorry Expat, I miss understood the question. One of the outputs goes straight to the element plug the other goes to the meter before going to the element plug.

[Houdinih]

Sorry Expat, I miss understood the question. One of the outputs goes straight to the element female plug the other output goes to the meter before going to the element female plug. I don’t have any wires directly wired straight( direct line voltage) to the element plug without going through the controller.

[Yummyrum]

The Pot does not control the power . It works with a capacitor to cause a time delay before the Triac ( In correctly called an SCR ) fires . It is the Triac ( the big three legged thing bolted to the heatsink) that controlles the power . As it is the devise that conducts all the main current flow , it can be destroyed ( go internally short curcuited ) . This results in a full pwer to element situation . The triac can easily be destroyed if there is an accidental short curcuit in the element wiring .

Also not to be ruled out , the Triac is soldered to the printed curcuit board and a bridge of solder created across the pins of the Triac will also cause a " Full power " senerio .Check for this .Factories arn't always perfect .

[Yummyrum]

.....I don’t have any wires directly wired straight( direct line voltage) to the element plug without going through the controller.

Thats OK ,the linking Expat is talking about is done on the controller you have . You will find one of the input contacts is directly connected to one of the output contacts . The other two input and outputs are connected to the Triac.( and timing/ trigger curcuitry ).
Looks like you have it wired correctly .So unless you want to attempt repairing it ,think you should replace it .

[Houdinih]

Finally had the time to get back to this project. I ordered another scr from eBay and was able to get it installed. I’ve only been able to do a test run, but It had 10 gallons of water boiling in 35mins running at 21amps. I would like to say Thank you to everyone who helped.