Can I start?

[yupiteru]

I'm almost ready to start, my "equipment" and a boka, boiler 30 liters keg beer, stainless steel column 2 inches, high just over a meter,
(head excluded, detachable). (gas glp heat for now)
l packing I made with copper springs (1 mm diameter wire, wound on a 3 mm diameter pin, 5-6 mm long springs)
I filled boiler and water column and it seems there are no more leaks,
I wanted to know what the next mandatory steps I need to take,
I only have to distil grape wine (about 12-14% alcohol)
what do i want to do?
the fact is that they are undecided, everything depends on how good the product will be,
at the moment I have a liqueur preference, but if it's good brandy it's okay,
perhaps this is more a future problem.
I wanted to make the first distillation with 20 liters of wine with the valve completely open and throw away all the product,
then do the same thing with 25 liters of charge and start holding the distillate
always throwing away the first part, and keeping the last part separate,
I know that doing everything to perfection at the beginning is impossible, but you have to start practicing,
even getting a distillate that could be reused would be ok for me

[rubelstrudel]

Do you have some pics? I'd love to see your setup.
The only way to find out if you're ready is to try it out, isn't it?

Column insulation, do you have that covered? Not strictly necessary, but makes it easier to maintain equilibrium if you've got a bit of wind.
Just remember to do this in a well ventilated space, so that if you vent fumes, it will just blow away.

[yupiteru]

no the column is not isolated,
I will distiller in the garage with the door a little open,
I know that distilling is serious and can be dangerous if you are not careful,
these days I keep thinking and thinking about all the possible dangers,
of course I'm reading a lot about homedistiller and it seems to me that I'm doing things "quite in order" ,
but a bit of fear always remains

[Bushman]

I agree pictures would be nice. Back in the day when I built my VM still I was still using gas. One of the major safety issues is your product collection is either a safe distance from the flame or shielded from the flame.

[Antler24]

Don't forget the cleaning runs, water/vinegar first to clean and check leaks, then a "sacrificial" alcohol run that you cannot drink.

[still_stirrin]

Using a Boka to make brandy may be a bit overkill. Brandy is typically best distilled in a potstill, often with an onion head to enhance a bit of refluxing during the vapor ascension.

A Boka is a LM, and as such, it is very good at compressing the heads. Ironically, in a brandy much of the flavor is in the late heads and early hearts. So compressing them may result in you eliminating them from your product.

A Boka is also very good at producing high %ABV, probably higher than you’ll desire for a brandy. Sure, you can temper the product with water, fruit juice, or even some of the wine, but it will affect the sweetness or delicate flavors of the spirits. It may not be the best approach....depending on what your target spirit is.

I do suggest reading a lot of operations threads first so you are familiar with how the processes function and also the nuances of Boka operations, ie - heat modulation and coolant flow control as well as take off rates. Get familiar with what to expect.

Be safe, responsible, and discrete.
ss

[yupiteru]

Don't forget the cleaning runs, water/vinegar first to clean and check leaks, then a "sacrificial" alcohol run that you cannot drink.

how much water and how much vinegar?

[yupiteru]

I agree pictures would be nice. Back in the day when I built my VM still I was still using gas. One of the major safety issues is your product collection is either a safe distance from the flame or shielded from the flame.

this is a solvable problem,
I can even take the outlet pipe into the next room and put the collection containers there

[yupiteru]

Using a Boka to make brandy may be a bit overkill. Brandy is typically best distilled in a potstill, often with an onion head to enhance a bit of refluxing during the vapor ascension.

A Boka is a LM, and as such, it is very good at compressing the heads. Ironically, in a brandy much of the flavor is in the late heads and early hearts. So compressing them may result in you eliminating them from your product.

A Boka is also very good at producing high %ABV, probably higher than you’ll desire for a brandy. Sure, you can temper the product with water, fruit juice, or even some of the wine, but it will affect the sweetness or delicate flavors of the spirits. It may not be the best approach....depending on what your target spirit is.

I do suggest reading a lot of operations threads first so you are familiar with how the processes function and also the nuances of Boka operations, ie - heat modulation and coolant flow control as well as take off rates. Get familiar with what to expect.

Be safe, responsible, and discrete.
ss

I chose the boka because it is more versatile,
a boka with the valve wide open should behave (almost) like a potstill,
I have the advantage that I distil an already good product that can be drunk as wine,
in addition to the fact that I have many liters available (for a hobbyist).
apart from the very first distillate output I can keep all the product in separate jars for future use or redistillation

[shadylane]

Don't forget the cleaning runs, water/vinegar first to clean and check leaks, then a "sacrificial" alcohol run that you cannot drink.

how much water and how much vinegar?

viewtopic.php?f=63&t=15489

[TDick]

I'm almost ready to start,...
I know that doing everything to perfection at the beginning is impossible, but you have to start practicing,
even getting a distillate that could be reused would be ok for me

I think you will find just a few things are set in stone SAFETY the rest is personal choices withing parameters.
Best thing to do - see below!
Good luck!
V V V V V V V V V

[still_stirrin]

I chose the boka because it is more versatile...a boka with the valve wide open should behave (almost) like a potstill...

Well, not exactly.

A Boka with the packing and LM valve removed and the reflux condenser disconnected and the top capped will run quite slowly, simply because of the size of the liquid take off line (trying) to function as a vapor tube. It will produce vapor, but that vapor will lose a lot of the flavors that a simple potstill would produce. What you’ll get will be somewhat cleaner and with higher proof simply due to some passive reflux occuring as a result of how you have to run the modified Boka.

It simply isn’t the “right tool for the job”, especially given the resources you have available to distill and the end product you’re trying to make. A detuned Boka is just not the best solution...at best, it’s a compromise.

I have the advantage that I distil an already good product that can be drunk as wine, in addition to the fact that I have many liters available (for a hobbyist). apart from the very first distillate output I can keep all the product in separate jars for future use or redistillation

Well, this is good for you. It’ll give you many attempts to make something good. Hopefully, you’ll learn the processes and how to operate the tools along the way. But you may need several attempts to make the flavorful brandy you’re dreaming of while using the wrong tools. So good luck with it.
ss

[Pikey]

As StillStirrin says, the output of a detuned Boka will be limited by the size of the output hole. Either a larger hole, or less power supplied, or a combination, can allow a decent balance between abv and output to be achieved.

Reduction in packing can also be employed to increase flavour somewhat, at the possible expense of abv. Nobody can really tell you how it will perform. Each apparauts is different and your solution is one I think is quite sensible for a first time, or "only" still.

However, what you have here is a somewhat adjustable version of something like a pot still, which should enable you to do single runs if you want to. Something most simple pots can't do effectively without a thumper.

Have a few goes, adjust things and see how it works out - like balancing accellerator, clutch, gears on a car to get either smoothness or performance.

Play with it, make complete notes, taste it - try stuff.

You'll get to a stage where you quite like what you're making (Most of us absolutely love our first ever "run" - then get better at it ! ) and then you may decide to go "Full pot" - or maybe you won't !

All the very best - and well done on making a Boka as your first build - many never ever get there !

[yupiteru]

I chose the boka because it is more versatile...a boka with the valve wide open should behave (almost) like a potstill...

Well, not exactly.

A Boka with the packing and LM valve removed and the reflux condenser disconnected and the top capped will run quite slowly, simply because of the size of the liquid take off line (trying) to function as a vapor tube. It will produce vapor, but that vapor will lose a lot of the flavors that a simple potstill would produce. What you’ll get will be somewhat cleaner and with higher proof simply due to some passive reflux occuring as a result of how you have to run the modified Boka.

It simply isn’t the “right tool for the job”, especially given the resources you have available to distill and the end product you’re trying to make. A detuned Boka is just not the best solution...at best, it’s a compromise.

I have the advantage that I distil an already good product that can be drunk as wine, in addition to the fact that I have many liters available (for a hobbyist). apart from the very first distillate output I can keep all the product in separate jars for future use or redistillation

Well, this is good for you. It’ll give you many attempts to make something good. Hopefully, you’ll learn the processes and how to operate the tools along the way. But you may need several attempts to make the flavorful brandy you’re dreaming of while using the wrong tools. So good luck with it.
ss

in your words I read that ... I must "curb the enthusiasm" probably to make a great drink it will take years,
but in truth I'm not looking for a specific type of drink, I like liqueurs and also brandy,
if it is possible I can make many distillations to accumulate 100-200 liters of distillate, which of course I can reuse in the future especially when I change my boiler from gas to electric (for safety).
then if an acceptable product comes out immediately, I'm happy,
however, having wine already is an advantage for me (I do not have to procure anything to ferment)
distilling wine at 12-14 degrees alcohol should not be too dangerous (if you pay attention)
obviously you have to start distilling

[yupiteru]

As StillStirrin says, the output of a detuned Boka will be limited by the size of the output hole. Either a larger hole, or less power supplied, or a combination, can allow a decent balance between abv and output to be achieved.

Reduction in packing can also be employed to increase flavour somewhat, at the possible expense of abv. Nobody can really tell you how it will perform. Each apparauts is different and your solution is one I think is quite sensible for a first time, or "only" still.

However, what you have here is a somewhat adjustable version of something like a pot still, which should enable you to do single runs if you want to. Something most simple pots can't do effectively without a thumper.

Have a few goes, adjust things and see how it works out - like balancing accellerator, clutch, gears on a car to get either smoothness or performance.

Play with it, make complete notes, taste it - try stuff.

You'll get to a stage where you quite like what you're making (Most of us absolutely love our first ever "run" - then get better at it ! ) and then you may decide to go "Full pot" - or maybe you won't !

All the very best - and well done on making a Boka as your first build - many never ever get there !

In my equipment I tried to replicate the most widespread distiller (perhaps) the 2-inch boka, on 30-liter keg beer, all stainless steel.
 but copper coil, copper outlet tube, and copper packing, I used the drawings on the forum, it came slightly higher, about 110 cm tall column also the head and the coil came a little bigger,
so (in theory) it should behave like a "classic" boka.
surely someone will have already distilled some simple wine in a boka and the results should be known,

[still_stirrin]

....so (in theory) it should behave like a "classic" boka...surely someone will have already distilled some simple wine in a boka and the results should be known,

So, a "classic" boka is great for making neutrals....spirits with little, or no flavor. The LM (Boka) is very good for compressing the foreshots and heads. It is OK through the middle of the run, but a VM is much easier to run with stability through the middle (hearts) section. Regardless, the Bokakob will give you a clean, high proof spirit with very little, to no flavor. If that is what you're trying to make out of your infinite resource of available wine to distill, then all power to you.

My thought was that with a large source of wine (must) for your still, then the product of choice would be a brandy, because after all, that's what most vineyards would produce in their distilleries. And to produce a note-worthy brandy, a potstill, with or without a thumper, or an alembic would more than likely be the "tool of choice", opposed to the neutral-producing Bokakob.

I am not discounting the utility of the Boka, it is just that it's strengths are not exploited in the use you've outlined here. If you're trying to make a neutral, then the Boka is an excellent choice.

Still, I prefer to strip all my washes before a spirit run and for that, I always use a potstill. I do not believe that the best neutral is extracted from a one & done LM (or VM) still regardless of the column height or packing. But that's my experience. Your "experience" may be different.
ss

[Oldvine Zin]

Still, I prefer to strip all my washes before a spirit run and for that, I always use a potstill. I do not believe that the best neutral is extracted from a one & done LM (or VM) still regardless of the column height or packing. But that's my experience. Your "experience" may be different.
ss

Having both a potstill and a flute I agree with you SS

OVZ

[yupiteru]

....so (in theory) it should behave like a "classic" boka...surely someone will have already distilled some simple wine in a boka and the results should be known,

So, a "classic" boka is great for making neutrals....spirits with little, or no flavor. The LM (Boka) is very good for compressing the foreshots and heads. It is OK through the middle of the run, but a VM is much easier to run with stability through the middle (hearts) section. Regardless, the Bokakob will give you a clean, high proof spirit with very little, to no flavor. If that is what you're trying to make out of your infinite resource of available wine to distill, then all power to you.

My thought was that with a large source of wine (must) for your still, then the product of choice would be a brandy, because after all, that's what most vineyards would produce in their distilleries. And to produce a note-worthy brandy, a potstill, with or without a thumper, or an alembic would more than likely be the "tool of choice", opposed to the neutral-producing Bokakob.

I am not discounting the utility of the Boka, it is just that it's strengths are not exploited in the use you've outlined here. If you're trying to make a neutral, then the Boka is an excellent choice.

Still, I prefer to strip all my washes before a spirit run and for that, I always use a potstill. I do not believe that the best neutral is extracted from a one & done LM (or VM) still regardless of the column height or packing. But that's my experience. Your "experience" may be different.
ss

I know you're telling the truth,
but now it is not possible to build another distiller, for now I have the boka and I have to use that,
the boka is ready to be used I have already connected / tested everything, pipes taps.
starting to build another distiller takes months,
maybe in the future I will do it,
with the boka I will also light the test with the valve all open and without packaging, so I experience and see the result

[Yummyrum]

I agree with all said so far .
My concern is when bringing your still up to boiling be ever so carefull that you don't stick too much heat into it and have it flood and spray hot high proof out the vent with gas flame immediately below it . .

Strongly recommend insulating the column especially if you intend to make neutral . Regardless of if you are indoors or not .
It doesn't have to be fancy ..... I just wrap a blanket around mine and stick a couple of cable ties to hold it .

Think you said your head is separate ( tri- clamped maybe ) to the packed section .
Can you just stick the head on the boiler when using as a pot .... it would save removing packing .

That being said if you intend to get serious n this hobby you should look at a dedicated Pot still head . Like SS said , they are absolutely fantastic at stripping a wash prior to running through your Boka to make a Nuetral if thats what you want but they are the right still head for making Brandys , Whiskys , Rums etc .

Go on and get cracking

[yupiteru]

unfortunately I can not directly attach the head to the boiler,
the column has been welded on the original connection of the boiler,
instead the head and column union is made with a standard 2-inch male female connector,
I can build another head that connects directly to the boiler if it can be useful,
or I could replace them with triclamps as soon as possible

[Pikey]

Just run what you have

But run it fairly slow to start with until you get the feel of it - I don't really see why you should have gas venting the top if you do, but as Yummyrum says, that must be avoided with a naked gas flame.

Let us know what you get !

[underdog]

Hi!

I have a 2" Boka. I also have a removable head, and I have a Liebig as a product cooler on a long 1/4 copper outlet tube. When I want to potstill, I just don't attach the column. I can do this because I have a milk can with a water heater element in the bottom of it and my electronics allow me to make very fine adjustments to my heat input. I remove my needle valve (big restriction, even when wide open) and run the amps needed to get the desired stream at the output of my product cooler.

Welding your column to your keg limits you a little, but you can achieve about the same results by just pulling out your packing. It's going to be slower than a dedicated potstill, but you can easily fab up a bigger outlet tube and put a bigger cooler around it if you wish to speed things up. Removing your valve may be all you need to do. It worked for me. You're going to need to go electric sooner or later. Get that done as soon as you can, as the still will be a completely different animal after that's done. Plus, there's less chance for nasty accidents.

I discovered Smiley's Pure Whiskey on this site, so I almost never potstill any more. I LIKE the taste of my UJSSM prepared that way, and that's what it's about here. Making what you like... I make a crapload of 95% UJSSM that I also use for PDs (Blueberry is our favorite) apple pie, and just watered down to make a passable vodka.

That's my story. Yours may be different. Run your still. Get a spiral-bound notebook and take copious notes of every run. Learn what works and what doesn't - what you like and what you don't like. If you're not satisfied with your equipment, then you can change it, but first.... you need to run your still

[yupiteru]

removing the valve and removing the packaging is something I can do,
instead, removing the column is not possible,
but it is a change that I will try to do in the future

[yupiteru]

Hi!

I have a 2" Boka. I also have a removable head, and I have a Liebig as a product cooler on a long 1/4 copper outlet tube. When I want to potstill, I just don't attach the column. I can do this because I have a milk can with a water heater element in the bottom of it and my electronics allow me to make very fine adjustments to my heat input. I remove my needle valve (big restriction, even when wide open) and run the amps needed to get the desired stream at the output of my product cooler.

Welding your column to your keg limits you a little, but you can achieve about the same results by just pulling out your packing. It's going to be slower than a dedicated potstill, but you can easily fab up a bigger outlet tube and put a bigger cooler around it if you wish to speed things up. Removing your valve may be all you need to do. It worked for me. You're going to need to go electric sooner or later. Get that done as soon as you can, as the still will be a completely different animal after that's done. Plus, there's less chance for nasty accidents.

I discovered Smiley's Pure Whiskey on this site, so I almost never potstill any more. I LIKE the taste of my UJSSM prepared that way, and that's what it's about here. Making what you like... I make a crapload of 95% UJSSM that I also use for PDs (Blueberry is our favorite) apple pie, and just watered down to make a passable vodka.

That's my story. Yours may be different. Run your still. Get a spiral-bound notebook and take copious notes of every run. Learn what works and what doesn't - what you like and what you don't like. If you're not satisfied with your equipment, then you can change it, but first.... you need to run your still

when in a few months I have gained enough confidence with the distillation I will try to put into practice the advice of your
Smiley's Pure Whiskey
to do the same thing as whiskey
but with brandy
an attempt can be made