Tempering? Home distiller going legit.

[UpAndAdam]

I was hired at a brewery to run their still once their licensing is is completed (100 gallon Column with 8 plates) This is the largest still that ive had the pleasure of running and being that my personal still is a 2in 4 foot column the scale of this undertaking is simultaneously thrilling and terrifying. Among my endless list of questions the thing that im trying to make a plan about currently is tempering, my only experience with this is in 1 gallon glass jugs. how do the pros go about tempering larger batches? My thoughts were to maybe use a modified half barrel keg with some sort of proofing tube for a hydrometer to sit. Am i over thinking this? Could anyone provide me any insight? Does anyone have any advice for me moving forward while i turn a hobby into a career?

[bluefish_dist]

The ttb site has a video on the proper way to check proof at gauging for bottling. Usually it's done in a 1l graduated cylinder as you have to fill it 3 times before taking the reading.

Any large stainless container can work for blending to bottle strength. Just make sure it has a tap for pulling samples to get your gauging. I also recommend doing it over a day or two as the proof tends to drop a little over the first day. You also need to be able to weight it, so it's either a tank on scales or transfer to containers that you can weigh.

[UpAndAdam]

Awesome! Thank you for the reply! it seems i have everything that i need at the brewery in that case including our scales for weighing yeast kegs. i may be back frequently asking stupid questions for the next few months as i find some rhythm. Thank you so much.

[bluefish_dist]

Also your hydrometer and thermometer have to be calibrated for the final gauging. The calibration is expensive vs the cost of a hydrometer.

It is also easier to check bottle fill by weight instead of volume. A standard 80 proof is 712g for a 750ml fill.

[HDNB]

in Canada the only method the government accepts is both hydrometer and temperature for proofing, they all have to be certain approved manufacturers and then also tested by the government's laboratory.
for quantities it also has to be weighed so measured for proof and then weighed for volume (of a bonded barrel for example)

the meters are about 300 a piece, not just a 10$ alcometer from the brew shop...

when you are diluting, use a non conductive paddle like wood to stir it...there have been a few "incidents" of guys using electric drills to stir hi octane juice into balls of fire. and lets face it, people really should have eyebrows. it just looks better.

[UpAndAdam]

Wow guys, thank you so much. As far as the legal logistics go I have been of very little help with the exception of outlining the processes for the application paperwork and developing an SOP for my corner of the brewery. Luckily one of our owners close friends used to work for TTB so it's been pretty smooth sailing and we will have him to walk us through the hurdles. This is obviously much different from making a run in the barn by my pond.


Any other advice for a greenhorn?

[Copperhead road]

What diameter column will you be running?

With 8 plates I am thinking you may be making Gin or Vodka......

400L boiler with a huge column is a big rig, I would imagine cuts will be more difficult with a spirit safe but I didn’t really know.

[UpAndAdam]

i believe its 8 inch and fully customizable, i imagine that i wont run with more than 4 plates to make whiskies, i'm not certain how making cuts will work at this stage, i've only made cuts in the past by collecting in very small jars and then choosing my cuts after they have aired out of course i always had a good idea of where they would be because of feel and smell during the run.

if its not obvious, im making a huge leap. my experience has very much been on the small scale, ive never made a run larger than 15 gallons and i have never had to worry about government regulations. thank you guys for having the balls to do the damn thing! if i get anywhere in this industry it will be on the shoulders of giants.

[StillerBoy]

Better get yourself ready for 18 -20 hours spirit runs.. so you may want to start out at half the capacity of the boiller to see how long it takes for the run, and go from there..

I have a friend who started a few months back, and he had to learn to make smaller runs after a few all day all night runs, and didn't want to stop half way and restart later..

Mars

[bluefish_dist]

100 gal with 6 or 8 " is an easy day. I am usually 8 or less for 110 gal of whiskey on a 6". Have fun, it's just bigger everything, the basics don't change.

[UpAndAdam]

8 hours for 100g? That was my estimate, if I ran my 15 gallon really slow and steady it took between 4 and 5 hours.

[EagleCliffs]

Time for the run will vary considerably, depending upon what you run and the quality you require. You will have to determine what you parameters are and then discover what your run time will be.
It is not that bad to stop a run and reset the next morning. Once the head cut is made, you just need to ramp back up to temp, let it sit for an hour, then get going again. An insulated boiler helps out a lot here, but even without insulation the wash should still be around 100°F or higher the next morning.
If you are running a generic pot that is suppose to produce anything, then everything will come out mediocre. You can improve performance somewhat by adjusting your yield, but be prepared.

[HDNB]

not sure i understand your post eagle cliff.

is your equipment designed for a particular product, or are you saying mediocre is good enough?

for your leftovers the next day are you running them into a feints or tails collection, or are you actually getting some favourable results restarting a low abv charge?