Removable output valve on boka?
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Removable output valve on boka?
Any way to make the take off valve/tube removable on a boka? A long time ago on the first one I built I remember constantly worrying that the easily bendable 1/4” tube coming off with my needle valve was going to get bent or broken from an accident like setting it down wrong or dropping it in storage.
If no ones done anything like this I guess I’ll just spend some money on a clamp and make the head removable and store it in a hard case of some type.
If no ones done anything like this I guess I’ll just spend some money on a clamp and make the head removable and store it in a hard case of some type.
- still_stirrin
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Does it have to be 1/4" soft tubing? Would not heavier pipe, like 3/8" ID rigid copper (type M) work? The key here is that your LM valve just needs to regulate the flow slow enough. So, a needle valve is probably the best choice. But, the piping, or the column penetration could be larger...more robust. What about a support/strut?
There's always a solution...if you keep digging for it. You just have to use your "hat rack".
ss
There's always a solution...if you keep digging for it. You just have to use your "hat rack".
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
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My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
If it only needs to be slow enough I don’t see why it couldn’t be 3/8 type M? After my last decision to deviate from the plans on here I thought it best to stick to them. If 3/8 would still regulate it enough I’ll do that. I’m Just not sure?still_stirrin wrote:Does it have to be 1/4" soft tubing? Would not heavier pipe, like 3/8" ID rigid copper (type M) work? The key here is that your LM valve just needs to regulate the flow slow enough. So, a needle valve is probably the best choice. But, the piping, or the column penetration could be larger...more robust. What about a support/strut?
There's always a solution...if you keep digging for it. You just have to use your "hat rack".
ss
I suppose it would need some sort of support strut due to the design wouldn’t it? It’s not a typical fitting being that it’s just a straight tube soldered into a drilled hole. Seems like there isn’t much “meat” for it to have any weight on it.
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Actually that would put me in the same dilemma of it being fragile and a bump ripping it out I think. Maybe I should just make the head removable for safe storage. It sounds like a delicate attachment by its nature.
- still_stirrin
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Here's a thought...get a 3/8" Tee fitting and remove the "branch" from the "run" portion, leaving a little of the material around the branch. Then, enlarge the diameter/radius of the material, making a "saddle" which will nest on the outside of your column (2"???) pipe. Rough it up and solder it directly to the pipe. This will be a very strong joint, albeit in 3/8" rigid piping size.
Then, with a street 45* or 90* elbow, solder that into the hub of the Tee fitting, pointing it downward. From there, you can get a short piece of 3/8" pipe and attach your needle valve. Keep all these lengths as short as possible to minimize the liquid cup volume (which affects the amount of smearing).
Just think man....there's always some way to fix it. And it doesn't have to be fragile.
But, having a "separable" reflux head is nice. That way, you can adjust the column height for more or less reflux refraction. A shorter column will produce a slightly lower purity, which may be just perfect for your rums and other flavored spirits.
ss
Then, with a street 45* or 90* elbow, solder that into the hub of the Tee fitting, pointing it downward. From there, you can get a short piece of 3/8" pipe and attach your needle valve. Keep all these lengths as short as possible to minimize the liquid cup volume (which affects the amount of smearing).
Just think man....there's always some way to fix it. And it doesn't have to be fragile.
But, having a "separable" reflux head is nice. That way, you can adjust the column height for more or less reflux refraction. A shorter column will produce a slightly lower purity, which may be just perfect for your rums and other flavored spirits.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Really good idea albeit an expensive sounding one lol.still_stirrin wrote:Here's a thought...get a 3/8" Tee fitting and remove the "branch" from the "run" portion, leaving a little of the material around the branch. Then, enlarge the diameter/radius of the material, making a "saddle" which will nest on the outside of your column (2"???) pipe. Rough it up and solder it directly to the pipe. This will be a very strong joint, albeit in 3/8" rigid piping size.
Then, with a street 45* or 90* elbow, solder that into the hub of the Tee fitting, pointing it downward. From there, you can get a short piece of 3/8" pipe and attach your needle valve. Keep all these lengths as short as possible to minimize the liquid cup volume (which affects the amount of smearing).
Just think man....there's always some way to fix it. And it doesn't have to be fragile.
But, having a "separable" reflux head is nice. That way, you can adjust the column height for more or less reflux refraction. A shorter column will produce a slightly lower purity, which may be just perfect for your rums and other flavored spirits.
ss
Never gave any thought to adjusting the column size. I think I might just do that. I thought all rooms were produced in a pot still but after doing some reading it sounds like most are actually done in a more of a reflux style so I think I’d like to be able to lower it. Two birds one stone. Thanks.
- JellybeanCorncob
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Like this? JBCstill_stirrin wrote: What about a support/strut?
There's always a solution..
JBC
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Not providing a picture of your valve set up, I can only comment on my valve set up on a 2" concentric..
It is setup on 3/8" tubing, with the valve only 1" from the cup.. the picture of the 2" setup has been in use for over 4 yrs now, and never had an issue with breakage.. it is used on a weekly basis, and stored after each usage..
I have also built 5 other similar setup for others, and have not had any issues with breakage..
Mars
It is setup on 3/8" tubing, with the valve only 1" from the cup.. the picture of the 2" setup has been in use for over 4 yrs now, and never had an issue with breakage.. it is used on a weekly basis, and stored after each usage..
I have also built 5 other similar setup for others, and have not had any issues with breakage..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Yeah just like that. That’s how the first one I built looked without a support. Did you just hammer more copper flat like your slant plants, cut it to shape, and solder the ends to the column and tubing?JellybeanCorncob wrote:Like this? JBCstill_stirrin wrote: What about a support/strut?
There's always a solution..
- still_stirrin
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Thanks JBCC & Stillerboy. Both excellent examples of "design to requirements".
Getting "the picture" popcorn?
ss
Getting "the picture" popcorn?
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
- JellybeanCorncob
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Yeppopcorn2014 wrote:
Yeah just like that. That’s how the first one I built looked without a support. Did you just hammer more copper flat like your slant plants, cut it to shape, and solder the ends to the column and tubing?
Boom done!
JBC
JBC
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Brilliant and simple! Thanks dude!JellybeanCorncob wrote:Yeppopcorn2014 wrote:
Yeah just like that. That’s how the first one I built looked without a support. Did you just hammer more copper flat like your slant plants, cut it to shape, and solder the ends to the column and tubing?
Boom done!
JBC
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Re: Removable output valve on boka?
Some of the commercial Boka style stills here have a threaded bit soldered inside the 2” that the valve screws into .
Can’t see why you couldn’t solder a theaded bush to the outside either ... filed to the 2” diameter for a flush fit .
Personally I haven’t found the need to remove valve but removeal or stabilizing can’t hurt
Can’t see why you couldn’t solder a theaded bush to the outside either ... filed to the 2” diameter for a flush fit .
Personally I haven’t found the need to remove valve but removeal or stabilizing can’t hurt
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory