Thermometer: what to use and where to put it!

[Old Man Bakke]

Was laying out a keg for some penetrations I am about to make and had purchased a 6" Thermowell from Brewers Hardware that I was going to weld into place. As I looking at it I began to have second thoughts, maybe just apprehension, about the way the thermometer would sit inside the themowell. The inside diameter is .305". My thought was, "the thermometer is just gonna sit in there? If it isn't snug I don't think it will give accurate readings OR even stay inside the thermowell!" I have reached out to Brewers Hardware for some tech advice and am waiting a response. I see they sell probes attached to cables BUT id like to do a touch more research before spending any more $$.

I know, I know.. I have put the buggy before the horse....but that's where I am at!


So the questions I have are, I want to have a digital thermometer on a 4-6' cable. One that I can set some alarms when I hit certain temps. What are people using? Can i still use this thermowell OR should i go a different route? I was planning on putting it about mid keg height...but as I am writing this I'm thinking i probably want it in the wash and potentially one up higher checking the temp of the vapor?!

Thanks in advance

[NZChris]

The only place I have one is below the level of the charge where the boiling point can be used to calculate the abv in the charge. Having one anywhere else is likely to cause you more trouble than not having one, especially while you are still learning how to run a still.

[OtisT]

Also, for distilling, having it low and in the charge will give you a heads up as to when the boil will start so you are not supprised. (Get that cooling on before the boil)

I find the most useful thing is having in there for heating water you use in mashing.

I also have a 6”TW and a 6” probe thermometer. Also the same issue of having a gap between the two. I find the responsiveness to temp seems to lag, but that’s just perception. I don’t have any proof. I was thinking of filling the thermowell, before inserting the probe, with some of that heat exchanging grease that is used to mount CPU chips to heat syncs. Have not done that yet, but it’s on my list.

Otis

[Old Man Bakke]

Thanks Gentlemen! Below the charge it is then!

Otis can you tell me a bit about your probe thermometer. Brand? did you have to buy a display separate?

[OtisT]

Thanks Gentlemen! Below the charge it is then!

Otis can you tell me a bit about your probe thermometer. Brand? did you have to buy a display separate?

Mine is an analog thermometer, not digital. It has a 6” stem on it. Pretty standard thermometer, just with a long probe.

Otis

[Old Man Bakke]

Thanks Gentlemen! Below the charge it is then!

Otis can you tell me a bit about your probe thermometer. Brand? did you have to buy a display separate?

Mine is an analog thermometer, not digital. It has a 6” stem on it. Pretty standard thermometer, just with a long probe.

Otis

I see! Just finished reading your thread on your Pot-n-Thumper/Dimroth. I notice you have that thermometer in the column and not in the charge.

[OtisT]

Just finished reading your thread on your Pot-n-Thumper/Dimroth. I notice you have that thermometer in the column and not in the charge.

I have a few boilers. The boiler shown only has two side ferrules, and I sold that specific pot and thumper set pictured. (I have another set similar to it.). I also have another personal boiler with three ferrules on the side for Element, Drain, Thermowell. I call it Frankenstine’s boiler because I practiced various welding styles on it. Weld, grind, weld, etc. I’m making a mini boiler now, then next boiler will be an inverted keg with legs and a bottom drain. I am also considering two column attachment ferrules on top for a double column rig. Only an 8’ ceiling and I want more than 3’ of vertical packing. Never an end to my projects. The curse of ADHD.

I don’t have a thermometer in my pot head, but I do have a thermometer on that 2” VM column pictured in one post on that thread. I often just use my short VM column head for pot stilling. I just open the valve all the way, pull the RC and cap the top and it’s a pot head. I do use the thermometer on my column for pot stilling. To know when my product ABV is down to cutoff levels (when to shut down). Stripping on that rig, 204 F is ~20% and 206F is ~10% ABV. It’s a bit easier than measuring ABV of the product multiple times.

Otis

[Old Man Bakke]

Regarding the Frankenstein boiler, the thermowell can you touch on that a bit more. What type of thermowell, thermometer and such.

I know the ADHD curse all to well!!

[NZChris]

An alcometer will give you far more valuable information than a thermometer. Have you got that sorted?

[OtisT]

Regarding the Frankenstein boiler, the thermowell can you touch on that a bit more. What type of thermowell, thermometer and such.

Both the thermowell and thermometer can be found here: https://www.glaciertanks.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow Go to glacier tanks, and search for “thermowell” and “thermometer”. There is only one model each that is 6”.

The thermowell is 1.5” triclamp attached with 1/2” FNPT threads to accept the thermometer. A SS jacket extends 6” into the tank.

6” thermowell, 1.5” triclamp attach

CC81CA8B-821C-4DBC-9BAA-7671E7384DED.jpeg (8.87 KiB) Viewed 4943 times

The thermometer is a 0-250 F analog gauge with a 6” probe. The probe fits inside the thermowell and thermometer 1/2” male threads screws into the female threads of the thermowell.

0-250F thermometer with 6”probe

Otis

[NineInchNails]

When it comes to thermowells, I have always welded a 1/2" coupling wherever I wanted. I then have the ability to use most any size thermowell I want. I make my own thermowells, here's a link. It's shown using brass tube, but you can use copper just as easily. Now I'm not stuck with using one brand of thermometer, type of thermometer or temp probe. They're simple to make, cheap and you can make them in any size.

I really like doing it this way because the ONLY thing that's permanent is the welded coupling. I can always put a plug in the coupling. If you weld a thermowell in place ... obviously it's not so easy to undo.

[OtisT]

Hey NIN. I like the ferrule attached thermowell for the same reason. I can cap the ferrule when a well is not needed, add another element if desired, add a threaded ferrule cap, etc.

Speaking of threaded couplings, what kind of SS coupling do you weld on? I was looking for weld specific 1/2” FNPT SS couplings and have not found any. The couplings I do find are threaded both ends. I was hoping for threads on one end and just straight pipe for a weld on the other end.

Otis

[Old Man Bakke]

I do like the idea of the ~1/2" threaded bung / coupling for the thermometer. (scours internet for said part)

Seeing a lot of automotive "bungs" for racing equipment. They state they are SS. Hesitant on messing racing fuel parts with food grade equipment

[Fart Vader]

Hey NIN. I like the ferrule attached thermowell for the same reason. I can cap the ferrule when a well is not needed, add another element if desired, add a threaded ferrule cap, etc.

Speaking of threaded couplings, what kind of SS coupling do you weld on? I was looking for weld specific 1/2” FNPT SS couplings and have not found any. The couplings I do find are threaded both ends. I was hoping for threads on one end and just straight pipe for a weld on the other end.

Otis

Hey Otis,
What your are looking for is called a half coupler.

[bronctoad]

depending on price, buy a regular coupling and cut it in half. 2 for 1
seeing as you grind a bit for radius fit anyway, should be easy enough

bronctoad

[Yummyrum]

depending on price, buy a regular coupling and cut it in half. 2 for 1
seeing as you grind a bit for radius fit anyway, should be easy enough

bronctoad

+1 bronctoad

[Old Man Bakke]

I see that SS at or above 304 is food grade https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... AHoECAcQBg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Half coupler like https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAING ... ling-2UA17" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

A pipe fitter buddy of mine told me to look at Threadolets too!

[Old Man Bakke]

Lets say a guy want to use a thermocouple like this one:

How, or what, do attach the leads to. I suspect its a display of some type. But before heading down the rabbit hole of the interweb, what would one look for when trying to use a thermocouple and a display? What type of specs ?

[shadylane]

I've been using a STC1000. Instead of a thermocouple it uses a NTC sensor.
The STC1000 is meant for use as a temp controller.

My thermowell enters the boiler from the top. It's also electrically insulated from the boiler.
When the thermowell is touching liquid, it acts like a battery and generates a small voltage
This lets me use it as a low level alarm.


https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purp ... way&sr=8-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Old Man Bakke]

Right on! Ok bear with me here but break down the STC and NTC meanings. I immediately googled the STC1000 to see what it was, but had a bunch of junk show up. Same with the NTC.

So the thermowell is on the top, you put the STC in the thermowell and attach it to the Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller!?

Thanks for the response by the way Shady!!

[shadylane]

The STC1000 is a cheap, simple temp controller. That's useful for a digital thermometer.
The NTC sensor is basically a resistor that varies with the temperature.
You stick the sensor in the thermowell.

If all you want is a digital thermometer
Here's a cheap and simple one


http://stilldragon.com/index.php/digita ... meter.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Old Man Bakke]

Ok got it the STC IS the controller!!

Can you show me, or post a link of the NTC sensor you are referring to?

How are you isolating the Themowell from the boiler electrically? I would think having some gasket of some type would leak or melt?

Does the STC1000 have a program that recognizes the "..... small voltage.This lets me use it as a low level alarm."

[Old Man Bakke]

The STC1000 is a cheap, simple temp controller. That's useful for a digital thermometer.
The NTC sensor is basically a resistor that varies with the temperature.
You stick the sensor in the thermowell.

If all you want is a digital thermometer
Here's a cheap and simple one


http://stilldragon.com/index.php/digita ... meter.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Yeah I saw that one, didn't like how short the probe was. I feel like i need to be about 1/3 into my keg. At least that's what remember seeing somewhere...Hmmm?

Trying to get through the whole Heating Element Controller thread...uhg 65 pages. I feel things coming to a head regarding temperature readings and heat control! Do i couple them together or run the separate. I want to be more hands on with the still. Be present and in the moment! So, maybe i just need to keep the two worlds separate; heat control and temp readings.

[shadylane]

Ok got it the STC IS the controller!!
Can you show me, or post a link of the NTC sensor you are referring to?

The sensor comes with the $15 controller

How are you isolating the Themowell from the boiler electrically? I would think having some gasket of some type would leak or melt?

PTFE tape, 3/8 copper tubing and a modified compression fitting

Does the STC1000 have a program that recognizes the "..... small voltage.This lets me use it as a low level alarm."

Unfortunately, the STC controller wasn't useable for that.
I built a simple circuit to turn off the heater power when there's wasn't any voltage on the thermowell.

posting with OMB

[shadylane]

Don't worry about the NTC temp sensor being little. Just stick it all the way down the thermowell.
If the wire is too short, make them longer.

[shadylane]

Trying to get through the whole Heating Element Controller thread...uhg 65 pages. I feel things coming to a head regarding temperature readings and heat control! Do i couple them together or run the separate. I want to be more hands on with the still. Be present and in the moment! So, maybe i just need to keep the two worlds separate; heat control and temp readings.

My bad, I'm "muddying up the water" as usual.
On my still the sensors are for giving Me information
The only thing they have to do with Heat Control. Is to turn the heat off when I fuck up.

[Old Man Bakke]

No I got you! Your on point! I was just verbalizing my thoughts and direction my mind and planning is going! Your good!

[shadylane]

Ya got time for the planning
You don't have to weld a thermowell on the boiler.
Instead, weld a female pipe fitting
You can always screw what's needed into the hole

[NineInchNails]

Hey NIN. I like the ferrule attached thermowell for the same reason. I can cap the ferrule when a well is not needed, add another element if desired, add a threaded ferrule cap, etc.

Speaking of threaded couplings, what kind of SS coupling do you weld on? I was looking for weld specific 1/2” FNPT SS couplings and have not found any. The couplings I do find are threaded both ends. I was hoping for threads on one end and just straight pipe for a weld on the other end.

Otis

You're right, both essentially achieve the same thing. A welded coupling is just really inexpensive and more compact.

I've always used FNPT couplings then cut them in half so now I have 2 that can be welded. I neglected to mention that. It would have made it more clear.

[Old Man Bakke]

I guess I am struggling with, "do I need a 6" probe or will a shorter one suffice?" I feel that read somewhere that good accurate readings come from being 1/3 of the way into the vessel.

Am i just mixing apples and oranges? Cant i just have a themocouple with a 6" probe in a thermowell, that connects to a digital readout? If so, what thermocouple (J, K, T, E?) goes with what device?

My mind is mush right now...to much reading...must hydrate !