What still to built or buy?

[Pikey]

Of course I was forgetting the valve.

Ok then, It looks like my next build will be Boka - Even if they're not as pretty !

Thanks for putting me right on that one rad.

[Saddlerman]

Hi gents I am new to this and was wondering if I would be able to distill whisky with a mampoer still or am I better off getting the traditional whisky still with cone top

[Saddlerman]

I cannot decide between the premium alembic whisky copper pot still or the t 500 with copper dome and condenser ,the t500 is a lot cheaoer and available locally and the alembic whisky pot still I will have to import any suggestions will be highly appreciated as I mortly want to distill whisky

[Still Life]

Strictly my opinion from what I've read here. I do not own either.

But the alembic is generally a better option. Nice copper build and likely no questionable build materials.

[japsinok]

I've been very satisfied with my 5 gal (20 l) alembic that I've been using for about 3 yrs, and have just upsized to a 10 gal/40l model. No opinions on anything else as that's been my only experience.

[mulligan]

Any potentially dodgy components in the T500 are in the column. The pot head doesn't have any. You could reduce your initial outlay by getting the T500 boiler and the pot head and using the standard lid that comes with the boiler. You will want a cheap SCR power controller to reduce the speed of your spirit runs.

edit : well there's one gasket where the head connects to the boiler that should be replaced or wrapped in teflon tape to completely meet site rules.

[jaxdaone]

Hi Guys
I have purchased this still in the picture. wondering what people would think about it as im very new to this hobby. i chose a column still as i would largely be looking to make vodka but ive been told this still is still very good for making whiskey not sure yet still reading up on the hobby before i fire this one up. its slow going trying to take all the info in.

[LWTCS]

Not the best design for vodka.

Ordinarily folks around here would recommend that the retorts are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the primary kettle in order to reduced the likelihood of flooding.

[jaxdaone]

Not the best design for vodka.

Ordinarily folks around here would recommend that the retorts are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the primary kettle in order to reduced the likelihood of flooding.

Sorry for my ignorance are the retorts the two middle columns ? Whats the best way to use this setup ?

[LWTCS]

Sorry for being too vague.
Yes those are the retorts. They are baby/undersized thumpers.

This still is likely best used for making a flavored spirit.

Have you leak checked it yet?

[jaxdaone]

Actually no i havent. I may do that soon. I had a look up about retorts and any i have seen mention about using the retort for flavouring by adding the flavours to them. My ones are sealed except for the bottom taps would this still work for flavouring ?

[Amos Owens]

I have decided that I am going to buy my still. Yes, I have been reading and studying this site for a good while, and I understand the benefits of building your own still....you will learn and understand the distillation process and what is actually happening while your still operates; you will learn valuable soldering and welding skills.

I agree and highly recommend that a beginner should learn how to build and operate their own still.

I would love to be able to design and build my own stills.

That said...I am a 57 year old man with cataracts developing in both my eyes. This is something I cannot control....I have to live with it.

My eye doctor says it will be a few more years before they are "ripe" enough for surgery, whatever that means.

I no longer have the ability to solder or weld or cut or TIG like I could in my younger days, and my night vision is not as good as it was.

20-30 years ago I could have built anything I wanted. But now, that is not the case.

I ask you to please understand my situation.

I am currently looking at Rick's Brewhaus "Essential Extractor PSII High Capacity- Complete Distiller".

At my current situation, the 8 gallon kettle will suffice.

I would like the 3" column to speed up the distillation process, and also have the option to pot still or reflux.

I have noticed on some YouTube videos of his equipment, through another You tuber, that the 8 gallon premium kettle can have a ferrule at the bottom for a tri-clamp.

I think I would rather have that than the 1 inch coupling. However, on the Brewhaus site, I do not have the option to choose the ferrule.

Any advice on the ferrule, or if I even need one would be helpful. I am thinking it would be easier to drain.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would like the option to make neutral spirits as well as having the pot still option.

I have propane burners and electric hotplates. I know that the electric hotplates have to be modified to allow continuous heat at a controllable rate.

I am not planning on using internal heating elements.

AO

[Still Life]

....I have decided that I am going to buy my still...

No need to justify.
Some of us "purchasers" had enough soldering and building and projects in life, and just wanted to get stilling.

You still get to learn your equipment and its sweet spots and that's good enough for me.
Don't you worry one bit about any derision here. It's all about safety and a good drink and building is just an extension of that.

Talk to Rick at Brewhaus. He will answer any of your questions truthfully. He's a gem.

Purchase away with no shame!

[fafrd]

New member (and newbie).

Winemaker thinking of getting into fortified wines with occasional wines that are not terribly special and so would make good candidates for distillation.

Have an empty keg so a keg-based pot still seems like the logical way to start.

I'm looking for advice on various designs I am considering or could buy, so any pointers as to the best way to engage in that process here on the board would be appreciated:

-here on this thread?
-start a new thread (here or somewhere else)?
-read a tutorial or sticky thread here on the board before wasting everyone's time?

To give a sense of where I am, I think I'm going to go with a basic pot still tower such as this kit: https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... tower-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

My questions are about condensor length, importance and location of thermometer, and specific nuances of the 2-3 designs I am considering (as well as buy preassembled versus buy kit versus buy pieceparts).

[jon1163]

New member (and newbie).

Winemaker thinking of getting into fortified wines with occasional wines that are not terribly special and so would make good candidates for distillation.

Have an empty keg so a keg-based pot still seems like the logical way to start.

I'm looking for advice on various designs I am considering or could buy, so any pointers as to the best way to engage in that process here on the board would be appreciated:

-here on this thread?
-start a new thread (here or somewhere else)?
-read a tutorial or sticky thread here on the board before wasting everyone's time?

To give a sense of where I am, I think I'm going to go with a basic pot still tower such as this kit: https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... tower-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

My questions are about condensor length, importance and location of thermometer, and specific nuances of the 2-3 designs I am considering (as well as buy preassembled versus buy kit versus buy pieceparts).

I made that same still head, not from Mile high though just the same, and I enjoy it immensely. I ended up capping my thermometer nub. I run without thermometers when I run my pot still. I do use a thermometer on my reflux still head however. use your hand to check temperature. you don't need a thermometer.

[fafrd]

I made that same still head, not from Mile high though just the same, and I enjoy it immensely. I ended up capping my thermometer nub. I run without thermometers when I run my pot still. I do use a thermometer on my reflux still head however. use your hand to check temperature. you don't need a thermometer.

Thanks for the response, jon1163.

Please let me know if I'm better off making a new thread with build questions on that design, but until then, I'll sart going into the details of my questions here:

Condenser
I saw a few posts scattered around about pre-canned condensors not being long enough and having to add an extension.

For flavored distillations where high alcohol levels are not a priority, is there any advantage to having a longer condenser?

With this simple pot-still tower design, what is the benefit of a longer condensor?

10' will be about as easy for me as 2', so is there any reason I might want or might want to avoid making a longer condenser?

Cap / narrowing
I've seen three typical designs:
-2" to 1/2" reducer before an elbow: http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildin ... ll-design/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
-2" elbow before a 2" to 1/2" reducer: https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... tower-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
-2" to 1/2" (or 3/4") reducing T with the open top plugged with a cork (which may include a thermometer: https://milehidistilling.com/product/po ... nch-tower/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Firstly, is there and advantage to making a 2" turn before constricting to 1/2"?

Secondly, is there any advantage to extending up past the 'turn' / exit hole and having an open top (plugged with a stopper)?

As I'm learning more (here on the board), my simple understanding of this design is that whatever condenses within the vertical tower will reflux back down to the pot while once vapor 'makes the turn' it will end up condensig and flowing into output. I'm trying to understand what is driving these various designs and what the pros and cons are.

Thermometer
I appreciate your earlier response which clarifies that a thermometer is not required. The cost and complexity of including a thermowell is pretty minor, so I may want to include one even if it ends up not being required for the type of distilling I am interested in. So some questions on thermometer placement:

Where is the best location for a temperature sensor?

Is the thermometer more useful measuring the temperature near the top of the column (within the column where there is reflux) or within the bend where the passing vapors will condense into the output)?

Is there any value to measuring the temperature of the liquid in the pot?

Counterflow jacket
I've built counterflow chillers for beermaking using stainless or copper tubing within a rubber or plastic/PEX jacket, so I am familar with the design of the condenser.

My sense is that the use of a copper jacket is purely for show since the coolant with the jacket never comes into contact with product, but I'd appreciate to understand if there is something I may be missing.

I'm planning to build my jacket with a single soldered 3/4" (or 1") NPT adapter near the hot end of the condenser, followed by a threaded plastic T with a hose adapter port for coolant out port, a 3/4" (or 1" if there is any advantage to going bigger) plastic tube down near the outout end of the condenser, into another threaded plastic T with a hose adapter port for coolant in port, followed by a 3/4" (or 1") compression adapter to seal against the inner tube. All of this 'plastic' will be rated to 250F.

Plastic won't look as purdy as shiny copper, but it will be alot cheaper and since it is all threaded, it will be much easier to assemble and can be dissassenbled at any time.

Is there any reason that I would not want to do this (other than missing out on the ooohs and aaahs of any onlookers)?

Thanks all for any answers to these questions (and if they would be better posted in a new dedicated thread, please let me know).

[jon1163]

I made that same still head, not from Mile high though just the same, and I enjoy it immensely. I ended up capping my thermometer nub. I run without thermometers when I run my pot still. I do use a thermometer on my reflux still head however. use your hand to check temperature. you don't need a thermometer.

Thanks for the response, jon1163.

Please let me know if I'm better off making a new thread with build questions on that design, but until then, I'll sart going into the details of my questions here:

Condenser
I saw a few posts scattered around about pre-canned condensors not being long enough and having to add an extension.

For flavored distillations where high alcohol levels are not a priority, is there any advantage to having a longer condenser?

With this simple pot-still tower design, what is the benefit of a longer condensor?

10' will be about as easy for me as 2', so is there any reason I might want or might want to avoid making a longer condenser?

Cap / narrowing
I've seen three typical designs:
-2" to 1/2" reducer before an elbow: http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildin ... ll-design/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
-2" elbow before a 2" to 1/2" reducer: https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... tower-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
-2" to 1/2" (or 3/4") reducing T with the open top plugged with a cork (which may include a thermometer: https://milehidistilling.com/product/po ... nch-tower/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Firstly, is there and advantage to making a 2" turn before constricting to 1/2"?

Secondly, is there any advantage to extending up past the 'turn' / exit hole and having an open top (plugged with a stopper)?

As I'm learning more (here on the board), my simple understanding of this design is that whatever condenses within the vertical tower will reflux back down to the pot while once vapor 'makes the turn' it will end up condensig and flowing into output. I'm trying to understand what is driving these various designs and what the pros and cons are.

Thermometer
I appreciate your earlier response which clarifies that a thermometer is not required. The cost and complexity of including a thermowell is pretty minor, so I may want to include one even if it ends up not being required for the type of distilling I am interested in. So some questions on thermometer placement:

Where is the best location for a temperature sensor?

Is the thermometer more useful measuring the temperature near the top of the column (within the column where there is reflux) or within the bend where the passing vapors will condense into the output)?

Is there any value to measuring the temperature of the liquid in the pot?

Counterflow jacket
I've built counterflow chillers for beermaking using stainless or copper tubing within a rubber or plastic/PEX jacket, so I am familar with the design of the condenser.

My sense is that the use of a copper jacket is purely for show since the coolant with the jacket never comes into contact with product, but I'd appreciate to understand if there is something I may be missing.

I'm planning to build my jacket with a single soldered 3/4" (or 1") NPT adapter near the hot end of the condenser, followed by a threaded plastic T with a hose adapter port for coolant out port, a 3/4" (or 1" if there is any advantage to going bigger) plastic tube down near the outout end of the condenser, into another threaded plastic T with a hose adapter port for coolant in port, followed by a 3/4" (or 1") compression adapter to seal against the inner tube. All of this 'plastic' will be rated to 250F.

Plastic won't look as purdy as shiny copper, but it will be alot cheaper and since it is all threaded, it will be much easier to assemble and can be dissassenbled at any time.

Is there any reason that I would not want to do this (other than missing out on the ooohs and aaahs of any onlookers)?

Thanks all for any answers to these questions (and if they would be better posted in a new dedicated thread, please let me know).

Before you get too far into this I would probably start a new thread. It's nothing else just to save the confusion. Try to copy and paste that into a new thread

[fafrd]

Will do - thanks (exactly the guidance I was seeking ).

Here's the link to the new thread I created: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=71071

[Jakey505]

What do you guys think about the Williams Brewing stills?

Digiboil Pot Still:
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Digiboi ... P4709.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Digiboil Reflex Still:
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Digiboi ... P4710.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If these links are not allowed, my apologies. I saw some companies listed in your stickies that were prohibited but I didn’t see these guys listed.

[Randell]

I have read all this and I was just looking for a simple answer, if I am buying pot still what's one of the best and why

[Randell]

I am wanting to buy a pot still can someone advise best on to buy, been reading and searching for 6 months and steal not sure thanks for any help

[Fivey]

Build one...? Maybe a pintoshine copper still, or if you want something more versatile, one out of a keg?

But if you are not keen on the construction-effort-required side of things, my own preference would be for a milk-can style boiler like (but not necessarily this specific) one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882567153.html NOTE: I have not personally bought one of these stills, I made my own from a keg. I suggest one like this because it shares many similar qualities/features to the keg approach that are useful, things that I think make them better than the ones made from hotel-conference-coffee-bar-style-water-heaters or modified stock-pots. Remember that buying a still already complete like this (or any other) commercially (China or elsewhere) will inevitably necessitate you also needing to go and buy actual PTFE gaskets because they always ship with silicone instead of PTFE (or even neoprene rubber ), and the top seal might be a bear to replace with PTFE.... but you’ll be able to figure something out. Someone here will already have figured out a solution for whatever sort of top seal it shows up with.

On top of that boiler, a pot still is easy: modular hygienic tube stainless steel with tri-clamps. A vertical riser, two 90 degree elbows, and a condenser. 4 tri-clamps and 4 PTFE gaskets. All bits that are easy to find, and it’s hard to get them “wrong”.

[MM-Brew]

I am wanting to buy a pot still can someone advise best on to buy, been reading and searching for 6 months and steal not sure thanks for any help

The best still is the one you have and the way you run it.

Here's a simple modular way to get started.
#1 find or get a keg . If you don't know how to weld. There some solder on bulkheads you can use for dump valves or heating elements. You should put in a dump valve.You may ask your ask yourself, do I needs a 15 gallon broiler. The answer is YES, yes you do! You don't need to fill full every time you run it. When you want or need to run a larger amount you can do that.

#2 decide on heating source. Gass or electric .

#3 choose if you want a 2" or 3" for the size of your column

#4 get you stuff. for a pot still, something around 18" or so for a column will work. Get some SS spools (They already have ferrule on them), a tee, a 45^, some type of condesor and some good gaskets. These all connect with try clamps,so you'll need those as well. It all comes apart for easy cleaning and storage. Then you can get started. If you decide later that want to do some reflux then add a second spool.

The tee will give option to convert to ccvm style or be able to put a temp probe up top. You'll need a cap or something as well.
I wish I would have done something like this when i started. I like the set up I have, but if I could do it over I differently I would have done something like this .

You can get a 18"-24" premade shotgun condensor for a reasonable price.

[MadKaw]

Been searching for an hour now for the plans for a simple beer keg to copper set up with a worm...why is it so hard to find?

[still_stirrin]

Been searching for an hour now for the plans for a simple beer keg to copper set up with a worm...why is it so hard to find?

Not hard if you try. But a keg build is so easy, I doubt you’ll find “plans”...just construction threads. In fact, here’s one: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=76232

And there’s many more if you look. Just spend some time researching and don’t expect “spoonfeeding”.
ss

[MadKaw]

Been searching for an hour now for the plans for a simple beer keg to copper set up with a worm...why is it so hard to find?

Not hard if you try. But a keg build is so easy, I doubt you’ll find “plans”...just construction threads. In fact, here’s one: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=76232

And there’s many more if you look. Just spend some time researching and don’t expect “spoonfeeding”.
ss

feeding from the spoon now...Thanks!

[Brick wall 5+]

Lion Brew has several attachment for a keg build and it's easy to adapt a worm to the collum for cooling. Check out ebay.

[Alkyholik]

I just saw this kit after enquiring about one to the company. Seems it's a T500 reflux still but can be converted to an artisian pot still.
Can this be used for both whiskeys AND neutral recipes/vodka
https://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/still-spi ... tarter-kit

[Swedish Pride]

For that kind of money you can buy parts to make a better still

[Alkyholik]

For that kind of money you can buy parts to make a better still

As I said earlier, DPD is delivering my original £165 30l pot still today,as they managed to find it after it being LOST somehow! Happy days again. I can't wait because my 1st trial wash is about half way through fermenting. Time to buy some vinegar to clean my still etc