Analogue power controller

[WhistlerKiwi]

Hi all,
I am new to distilling and I am absolutely loving it.

I purchased the pot still and reflux head combo from copperhead stills. This still is similar to the T 500, having a comparable boiler, with a copper reflux head and a copper pot still head with Liebig condenser.

It seems like a great piece of kit to get me started, however, now having done a few stripping runs I do see some of the limitations and am looking for some help please.

I would like to slow down the pot still mode for my upcoming spirit runs and need a power controller to achieve this. I am after a simple analog dial one and I’m not sure where to purchase this in New Zealand.

I don’t know/think I need temperature control ability, just the ability to wind back the power input, so I can slow the rate of vapour down to 2 to 3 drips a second, rather than at a small run, which is the slowest it can currently achieve in pot still mode.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers

[Expat]

I don’t know/think I need temperature control ability, just the ability to wind back the power input, so I can slow the rate of vapour down to 2 to 3 drips a second, rather than at a small run, which is the slowest it can currently achieve in pot still mode.

Yup, you definitely need to be able to dial back the power.
Temperature control is useless and not what you want.

SSR power controllers are easy to build, and offer a nice analog control. Plenty of build threads here to research.

Edit:
To expand, the basic required elements required for a controller are:
- a box (metal or plastic) - available any big box store, or scavenged.
- a SSR (Solid state relay) - ebay or industrial suppliers (240V 40A)
- a potentiometer and a nob
- suitable wire

Check out all the shapes and sizes members have created.
viewtopic.php?f=85&t=44557

Also in my sig line you can see my build.

[kimbodious]

If you don)t want to build maybe you can find this to buy https://www.kegland.com.au/4000w-power- ... oller.html

[NZChris]

An SSR is the wrong device. Don't confuse them.

Use SCRs for power control.

Use SSRs when you need solid state relays for switching power on and off.

[NZChris]

I use a 220v 4000W power controller from Ebay for my 1500W element without any problems. There are higher rated ones available, you get what you pay for.

During Covid, I have some had stuff arrive from China fairly quickly, but one item never showed up and another is very slow.

[Yummyrum]

An SSR is the wrong device. Don't confuse them.

Not quite .
SSR stands for Solid State Relay .

However , manufacturers make two main types of Devices they call SSRs for use in AC circuits.

One type is simply a “dumb” switch and needs to be turned on or off by an external controller .There devices have an identier such as “SSR DA 40”
The”DA” indicates that it is a digital device , the “40” refers to how much maximum current it can handle .

The other type has a simple phase control circuit built into it which is controlled by an external Pot ( Potentiometer) . These devices have an identifier such as “SSR VR 40” or “SSR VA 40” depending on manufacturer . The “VR or VA” indicates that it is a phase controller requiring an external Pot .

These types are used by I’d guess 90% of the guys on here .
They are what you might call an analog controller .

These are what Expat was referring to earlier .

When NZChris said SSRs are not suitable , he is referring to when they are controlled by a PID controller or Temperature Controller . This is correct .

However , just to add further confusion , a SSR DA device can indeed be used as a power controller by using a Burst fire or a Time proportional controller , both of which can be controlled either by pushing buttons or turning a knob .

And while I’m on my terminology soap box . I cringe when I here SCR controllers being called that .
SCR stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifier and as such , a true SCR only conducts current in one direction ( its a rectifier) so is unsuitable for controlling AC curcuits .

Instead , there is a device called a TRIAC which contains two SCRs which is the real device used .
Unfortunately some Chinese manufacturer started pumping out TRIAC power controllers and called them SCR controllers and the name has stuck .

Incidentally , all the SSRs have a TRIAC in them as the main switching device .

[NZChris]

Just when you think you know it all

That's what I love about this place.

[Expat]

Just when you think you know it all

That's what I love about this place.

+1

[Yummyrum]

Sorry fellas , I’m just in pedantic prick mode today . I’ll get over it.

[NZChris]

You can get PIDs with Triac outputs, which would be my preference now that I've had one destroy the element in my smoker in less than a day.

[WhistlerKiwi]

Thanks all,
I consider myself pretty handy, however I generally steer clear of electrical builds for safety sake and with time at a premium due to young kids, I think I will go down the purchase of a finished unit path....
I see AliExpress has several good to go 4000w 220v controller options and I found one New Zealand option, so I think I will go that way.
Many thanks for the help!!!

[kimbodious]

You are really going to appreciate the differences with having that extra level of control! After the condensers, the power controller has been the most important item I have bought!

[NineInchNails]

Here's a link to both parts as well as a controller kit. I've built multiple controllers using these parts, but I used other enclosures and they work perfectly.

[Expat]

Wow, the "controller kit" is surprisingly good value.

[WhistlerKiwi]

I thought I would give a quick update, given last night I was able to run my still for the first time with a voltage regulator.

So…

I had ordered a voltage regulator from a New Zealand company, thinking I was doing the right thing supporting our economy. However, turns out they were simply an online store, who shipped the regulator directly from China. I don't really have a problem with this method of commerce, however, I could have ordered it directly off Ali Express myself, saved a few dollars and Iwould have known what was going on. Long story short, the regulator is still somewhere between China and New Zealand nearly 2 months later....

I got sick of waiting and managed to find a supplier of 4000W SCR's on TradeMe, which is our version of EBay. They were only $10, so I purchased two and they were on my doorstep 24 hours later. Using this fantastic forum as a guiding resource, I found an old plastic box/lunchbox container, the necessary power lead and male/female power plug fittings and one hour later, after construction at the kitchen table it was completed and ready to go.

Last night I had the low wines from my third and fourth generation cornflakes whiskey ready for a spirit run, so I charged the still and I can't believe how much control the SCR gave me! I was able to dial into the perfect drip/stream volume coming off the still.

One small downside of being able to dial in, is just how long it takes to do a full spirit run… I crawled into bed in the wee small hours this morning and it's going to be a long day at the office today

Many thanks for the advice and encouragement given to me on the original post.
Having a voltage regulator is definitely the best piece of kit I have purchased since first buying my still.

[Tummydoc]

And some people still think a PID is the best way to run a still! Love the responsiveness of an SCR and constant power input.

[kimbodious]

Great result! Yep spirit runs can involve considerable time but if done right the product is worth it!

[bluedog]

An SSR is the wrong device. Don't confuse them.

Not quite .
SSR stands for Solid State Relay .

However , manufacturers make two main types of Devices they call SSRs for use in AC circuits.

One type is simply a “dumb” switch and needs to be turned on or off by an external controller .There devices have an identier such as “SSR DA 40”
The”DA” indicates that it is a digital device , the “40” refers to how much maximum current it can handle .

The other type has a simple phase control circuit built into it which is controlled by an external Pot ( Potentiometer) . These devices have an identifier such as “SSR VR 40” or “SSR VA 40” depending on manufacturer . The “VR or VA” indicates that it is a phase controller requiring an external Pot .

These types are used by I’d guess 90% of the guys on here .
They are what you might call an analog controller .

These are what Expat was referring to earlier .

When NZChris said SSRs are not suitable , he is referring to when they are controlled by a PID controller or Temperature Controller . This is correct .

However , just to add further confusion , a SSR DA device can indeed be used as a power controller by using a Burst fire or a Time proportional controller , both of which can be controlled either by pushing buttons or turning a knob .

And while I’m on my terminology soap box . I cringe when I here SCR controllers being called that .
SCR stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifier and as such , a true SCR only conducts current in one direction ( its a rectifier) so is unsuitable for controlling AC curcuits .

Instead , there is a device called a TRIAC which contains two SCRs which is the real device used .
Unfortunately some Chinese manufacturer started pumping out TRIAC power controllers and called them SCR controllers and the name has stuck .

Incidentally , all the SSRs have a TRIAC in them as the main switching device .

I'm sure the answer is on here, I think I even read it at some point, but was pretty far from understanding it at the time, but how is a SSR VR different than a SSVR (solid state voltage regulator)?

[Yummyrum]

They are the same thing AFAIK

[richard1]

Just remember that whatever you decide to use, ...... attach it directly to a heat sink, with the heat sink external to the enclosure / control box. This way you prevent internal overheating.

[bluedog]

They are the same thing AFAIK

Thanks, That's what I was hoping.

[cdd]

my ghetto chinesium setup to regulate t500 boiler. Works really well tho.