Let's see your controller box

[Expat]

To run 2 5000Watt elements you need 50Amp outlet Do you have it?

Hmmm...not sure. Probably not, it's just a standard? 240 for my dryer. I was thinking 2 elements just to increase heat up times and then unplug one once it's getting close to temp. I'm planning on a 26 gallon milk can and possibly connecting 2 with the second being a thumper. I just don't want to wait for hours+ for it to heat up. What would a regular 240 outlet be able to handle? Maybe I could use the 240 plus a 110 in combo for heat up?? I really have no clue and I'm just starting to mentally work out what I need to get and what will work...

Sorry, I'm not trying to hijack this thread. I can start a new one if needed.

No way to answer your question remotely. Typical dryer outlets in my area are 30A wired with 10awg 4 conductor copper. Only way to determine for sure what you have is to go to the breaker panel and read the capacity written on the dryer circuit breaker.

Yeah, you could do a second element on a 110v circuit; 1500w is the max for a standard 15A circuit/outlet.

[kimbodious]

This is for people who were asking about off the shelf power controller options. Here is a recent review I wrote about one I recently bought.

“My DIY power controller went disco a while back complete with smoke and flashing lights. It is cheaper to buy an off the shelf controller by Kegland than buy a kit or DIY. This one has a 12 month warranty so for around $50 delivered I thought I’d give it a crack for my 2” 2200W 240VAC system.

https://www.kegland.com.au/4000w-power- ... oller.html

The power cord is pretty short meaning you’re most likely going to have to use an extension lead to connect it to the power supply. I also had to make a patch lead to go from the controller outlet to the boiler. Not a biggie, I’ll be able to connect the new patch lead to an extension lead for stripping runs where I don’t require a power controller.

The unit is compact and fairly sturdy. The meter is very bright. The socket is mounted sturdily and the controller mechanism operates smoothly and feels pretty robust. The unit got surprisingly warm to touch (no fan) quite quickly on a reflux spirit run but did not get any warmer. I do like that it has a On/Off switch you know for those times when your cooling system turns in to a sprinkler system.

I used wattage for the set points on my old DIY controller so I had to wing it with this controller with its voltage meter but seemed to manage. I noticed that after increasing the power to a new setting that the voltage meter would drift down a few volts after each change?

It does the job, it’s fifty bucks with a 12 month warranty, little wonder it is so popular but I do miss my DIY controller.”

[Farside]

As you can see I built my controller in a hurry and with limited equipment.
As "Agricultural" as it is, it works great.

Inside is a 10KW AC motor controller, and the box keeps all the wiring away from fingers and moisture.
On one side there are two sockets that connect to the controller, and on the other side are two normal sockets delivering mains power.
In the back is a lead terminator panel that prevents the cable from being accidentally ripped out.

The reason I'm posting this is because there are a lot of very sexy looking pics in this thread. I just want to encourage y'all that fuggly also gets the job done.

[soy_boricua]

I designed and 3D printed mine. here is the link and pictures
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3332728

Loving the box design and build

thanks!

[Thecraftsman]

This is way over Kill but I had The encloser and contacts left from a machine I scrapped at work. One stop shop, inkbird for mashing, one contact for just an element and one running through an scr.

[still_stirrin]

As you can see I built my controller in a hurry and with limited equipment...a 10KW AC motor controller...two sockets that connect to the controller...two normal sockets delivering mains power...a lead terminator panel that prevents the cable from being accidentally ripped out.

Farside,

I have a couple of questions for you....what element are you plugging into this controller? And what gage is the power cord?

I have a couple of concerns:
1) the output receptacle is a 15 amp receptacle,
2) the input power cord is Romex (solid copper) wire.

I see you’re running this on 120VAC household power. This will limit the circuit power available but could potentially overload it if the heat element is too much wattage, ie - greater than 2kW/120VAC. At 2kW, your circuit would draw: 2000 / 120 = 16.7 amps, marginally exceeding the receptacle’s rating...making it dangerous.

And at 16.7 amps, solid copper Romex 12 gage can barely handle the load safely unless very short runs. And your household wiring probably isn’t heavier than that, making it dangerous to the house wiring. Indeed, the house circuit is probably protected by a 15 amp breaker anyway, so it may be “trip sensitive”. If the house’s circuit breaker is 20 amp, then the house wiring may be 10 gage Romex (fingers crossed here).

So, what are you running?
ss

[Lamannamal]

[Farside]

As you can see I built my controller in a hurry and with limited equipment...a 10KW AC motor controller...two sockets that connect to the controller...two normal sockets delivering mains power...a lead terminator panel that prevents the cable from being accidentally ripped out.

Farside,

I have a couple of questions for you....what element are you plugging into this controller? And what gage is the power cord?

I have a couple of concerns:
1) the output receptacle is a 15 amp receptacle,
2) the input power cord is Romex (solid copper) wire.

I see you’re running this on 120VAC household power. This will limit the circuit power available but could potentially overload it if the heat element is too much wattage, ie - greater than 2kW/120VAC. At 2kW, your circuit would draw: 2000 / 120 = 16.7 amps, marginally exceeding the receptacle’s rating...making it dangerous.

And at 16.7 amps, solid copper Romex 12 gage can barely handle the load safely unless very short runs. And your household wiring probably isn’t heavier than that, making it dangerous to the house wiring. Indeed, the house circuit is probably protected by a 15 amp breaker anyway, so it may be “trip sensitive”. If the house’s circuit breaker is 20 amp, then the house wiring may be 10 gage Romex (fingers crossed here).

So, what are you running?
ss

I'm running a catering coffee urn. Just small fry, only running about 4 gallons at a time

[StillerBoy]

I'm running a catering coffee urn. Just small fry, only running about 4 gallons at a time

Playing with electric is not " just small fry".. and some coffee urn do not a ground wire to them.. not a safe unit when being used to distilled with..

Hoping your's has the ground wire, and the setup you made to manage power is well grounded also..

Mars

[Jack C]

Just a pic of my simple control box that I use for heating strike water for AG mash and boil control for running the still. Before you blow a circuit the PID in the top left is just used for strike water temp control. You will see a DPDT toggle between it and the proportional burst fire controller for the still heating element. They both control the same 40A SSR. I do have a volt/amp meter installed that just gives me a double check that the controllers are acting as they should. The switch is not a standard switch, it is a 3phase motor control rated switch. It is good for 600v and 30amps.
I sourced the parts from Auebrins. It has been working since about 2008 and I am very happy with its performance.

[Islandboy85]

Almost finished building this.It’s a dual purpose control panel for brewing and distilling. 50 amp max power, running 9KW for brewing, and haven’t yet built the boiler for distilling but less than 9KW.

[Dewstiller]

And it says novice under Islandboy's name

[Islandboy85]

And it says novice under Islandboy's name

To distilling now, to overengineering, overcomplicating, and dragging out this build for half a decade... PRO!!! This COVID furlough has certainly blessed me with all the time I need to finish it up.

[Daveman69]

C9C44EEC-5DA9-44CA-A620-0C13BF5991B1.jpegF8C6E9EB-04A9-4B9B-A3C8-7B744AB6FB8D.jpeg
Almost finished building this.It’s a dual purpose control panel for brewing and distilling. 50 amp max power, running 9KW for brewing, and haven’t yet built the boiler for distilling but less than 9KW.

That's one nice box there Islandboy

[Royco]

Yes it sure is. Makes me worry about the one I have bought. It is tiny - 60x45x30mm. The supplier knows it is for a 3500 Watt/220V heater element.
It is rated 15amp which is required for this element.
There is only a flat 2,5mm ss plate underneath. No fins. If I fir a fan to the box do you think it will stay cool enough?

[Bushman]

Yes it sure is. Makes me worry about the one I have bought. It is tiny - 60x45x30mm. The supplier knows it is for a 3500 Watt/220V heater element.
It is rated 15amp which is required for this element.
There is only a flat 2,5mm ss plate underneath. No fins. If I fir a fan to the box do you think it will stay cool enough?
VC.jpeg

I used one for years similar but not the same. The box is so small I had trouble after moving my still many times with the wiring. Bought an updated one from LWTCS that was much larger with lots of room in the box and haven’t had any problems.

[Royco]

OK cool and thanks Bushman. Hopefully testing new still later today

[Royco]

Yes it sure is. Makes me worry about the one I have bought. It is tiny - 60x45x30mm. The supplier knows it is for a 3500 Watt/220V heater element.
It is rated 15amp which is required for this element.
There is only a flat 2,5mm ss plate underneath. No fins. If I fir a fan to the box do you think it will stay cool enough?
VC.jpeg

I used one for years similar but not the same. The box is so small I had trouble after moving my still many times with the wiring. Bought an updated one from LWTCS that was much larger with lots of room in the box and haven’t had any problems.

OK so I am testing mine now and all seems fine. I am just worried about the overheating aspect as most posters here seem to have proper heatsinks and fans
Mine is like this:

[Islandboy85]

C9C44EEC-5DA9-44CA-A620-0C13BF5991B1.jpegF8C6E9EB-04A9-4B9B-A3C8-7B744AB6FB8D.jpeg
Almost finished building this.It’s a dual purpose control panel for brewing and distilling. 50 amp max power, running 9KW for brewing, and haven’t yet built the boiler for distilling but less than 9KW.

That's one nice box there Islandboy

Thanks!

[Islandboy85]

Yes it sure is. Makes me worry about the one I have bought. It is tiny - 60x45x30mm. The supplier knows it is for a 3500 Watt/220V heater element.
It is rated 15amp which is required for this element.
There is only a flat 2,5mm ss plate underneath. No fins. If I fir a fan to the box do you think it will stay cool enough?
VC.jpeg

Get more box than you think you’ll need. I’m glad I did.

[Royco]

Thanks Islandboy

[greggn]

OK so I am testing mine now and all seems fine. I am just worried about the overheating aspect as most posters here seem to have proper heatsinks and fans

It's intended to be mated to a heatsink using thermal grease. You can power it up to test it on a lamp, to verify your wiring, but don't run it for an extended period without a heatsink.

[Royco]

Thanks greggn, I didn't know that. Did the lightbulb test and have run 3 proper sessions and all went well, but the box is closed and there must be a heat build-up. Will ask supplier about a heat sink. Also thought of installing a small computer fan.

[greggn]

Will ask supplier about a heat sink. Also thought of installing a small computer fan.

I can't see in your photos the brand but I assume it's an SSR/SSVR similar to those popular with users here. For example, here's what Auber has to say about their devices:

3. Do I need a heat sink for the SSR?

SSRs are made of semiconductors that have limited conductance. When passing a current, heat will be produced. Each ampere of current will produce about 1.3 to 1.5 watts of heat. When a 12 Amps current passes through a SSR, approximately 16 watts of heat will be produced in the SSR. As heat is produced, temperature inside the SSR will rise. The maximum temperature on the metal surface of the SSR should not exceed 70°C (158°F). If temperature reaches above 70°C, the SSR may not shut off and eventually get damaged. High temperature can also shorten the life or damage other components in the same box.

The temperature of the SSR depends on the amplitude of the current, duty cycle, and the ambient temperature. The general rule of thumb is that if the current is more than 8 Amps, you will need a heat sink or mount it on a thick aluminum sheet. If it is more than 15A, you need either to use a 25A external heat sink, a 40A SSR heat sink or forced air (with fan). Increasing the capacity of the SSR (using a 40A SSR instead of 25A SSR for a 15A load) will not significantly reduce the heat; a heat sink is still needed. However, a higher capacity SSR is structurally more durable. When more than 30A is passed, the box that holds the internal SSR needs to have good ventilation with forced air.

[Royco]

Good info greggn. The SSVR supplier said to bond a 10mm piece of aluminium on if necessary, but first check with a probe. I'm going to do a run tomorrow and put a probe in the box. In any case will be more comfortable with a heat sink and a small fan.
Last thing you want is for this thing to blow halfway through a run!

[Islandboy85]

To keep it simple I’ve seen it recommended my many different users in a few forums to use the 40 amp SSR because they generally are nearly the same price as for say a 25 amp SSR. Giving yourself a little more room for design flaws or failure of a good thermal bond between the SSR and heatsink.
As for the heatsink. I’ve also heard if you can’t touch it to get a bigger heatsink. Generally you’ll let go of something before it’s at the max temp an SSR can handle.

[Royco]

Don't want to labour this too much, but I opened the box yesterday and the ss bottom plate of the SSR was very hot. Suppliers suggest a 10mm thick piece of Ally bonded on would do. Would a small "computer" fan not do the trick?

[Expat]

Don't want to labour this too much, but I opened the box yesterday and the ss bottom plate of the SSR was very hot. Suppliers suggest a 10mm thick piece of Ally bonded on would do. Would a small "computer" fan not do the trick?

Reality is, SSR require a heatsink and active cooling (fan). I have a 6" x 4" aluminum heatsink mounted through the side of the case and even that gets hot after awhile; regardless of what manufacturers say.

You'll need a fan and some holes to exchange air.

[greggn]

Would a small "computer" fan not do the trick?

No. The bottom pate of the SSR doesn't have sufficient surface area to dissipate the heat. Thus the multiple thin blades of a heatsink. Again, they need to be mounted using either thermal grease or a thermal pad (to facilitate the heat transfer).

Like distilling itself, there's science and physics involved that just can't be worked-around safely.

[Dewstiller]

New Controller box