3” vm build, could use advice

[passiton]

I have this hoard copper and it’s time to put some to use. I have made a few pot stills in the past but this will be my first reflux.
GOALS.
1. have fun, I enjoy building things.
2. Build a vm reflux column and boiler.
3. Make it modular
4. Make it as nice to look at as it is functional.

I started with this old keg and cut a 6” hole it, I mean who wants a 2” hole to try and clean the thing.
I then silver brazed the 6”x3” stainless tri clamp ferrule.
Next up was the reflux coil 3/8 outside with 1/4 inside and connected to bottom of a 3/4 cold finger(not really a cold finger but not sure what to call it). I’m hoping this will knock down what ever I throw at it. The bottom of the coil is about 4” from the top of the 3” take off tee. The glass is just some bling and when replaced with a copper section of its size it can be moved around to help me see and learn what’s going on inside.
The column it’s self is 3” by about 50” to the take off.
It’s a 3x3 tee that is then tapered to 2” with a 2” valve and 2” 90 elbow.

The condenser is or plan to be a Liebig with the vapor path changing from 2” to 1 1/2 inside the the the 2” Liebig. So basically 2” over 1 1/2 and about 24” long. Again I do have a hoard of copper so it’s not costing me.

I do have some specific questions that I’ll post next but how does this sound a look so far?
Am I on the path?
This is my first build on something like this.

[passiton]

Not sure why pics didn’t attach

[RC Al]

The liebig needs a smaller inner tube, 1 1/2 is about 3/4 to 1" too big - the vapour will just blow through the centre, if you need/want to keep it short, consider a multi tube shotgun or even a twin barrelled liebig - there was one posted in recent times, user reports no issues. You could also try for something like brutals https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 87&t=59998 to utilise spare large diameter tubes

You can achieve a lower minimum reflux ratio if you change the RC coil section to 2" to match the 2" valve (some would argue you will never use a 1:1 Ratio - you have enough packed height there to use it imho)

[passiton]

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ok I have to resize all these, here is one pic

[passiton]

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Few more

[passiton]

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Condenser

I’ll post the rest tomorrow after I resize them.

[passiton]

Rc, at the the end of the Liebig condenser I was going to reduce the 1 1/2 to half an inch. Or 3/8, are you saying the 1 1/2 after elbow is to big and should go smaller?

[passiton]

The top coil is made for a 3” so I’m kinda stuck with it.

[passiton]

Top of coil, semi complete in pic

[passiton]

I’ll figure out this pic resize thing lol

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[RC Al]

Rc, at the the end of the Liebig condenser I was going to reduce the 1 1/2 to half an inch. Or 3/8, are you saying the 1 1/2 after elbow is to big and should go smaller?

Yes, Go smaller for the whole length, the water jacket needs to be pretty tight too, around a 1/16th clearance or so. The water will just channel through the guts (like the vapour) otherwise

[passiton]

Rc, Thanks for your advice. I wanted to explain the product condenser better and see if you still have advice.

My original idea is for condenser to be 24” long. Site calc says that is more than I need.
So 24” long, 1-1/2” with copper 10 gauge spiraled and soldered to out side of it. And then the 2” water jacket over that. The end of condenser tappers to 1/2 or 3/8. The space between the 1-1/2 and 2” is about 1/8” but the spiraled copper should improve water flow and take up some of that 1/8” space.

So is there any chance of this working? Is the 3/8 reduction at end enough to slow vapor long enough to condensate?

I was under the impression that to much reduction in Id of the vapor path, past the valve, will upset reflux ratio.

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[Yummyrum]

So is there any chance of this working? Is the 3/8 reduction at end enough to slow vapor long enough to condensate?

No . Wrong concept. Adding a small output hole will just mean that things passing through it will be faster than that behind it . But you won’t slow down whats behind it unless you take it to the extreme inwhich case you will be causing a buildup of pressure and a bomb

As others have said , you would be better off with a smaller condenser .

[passiton]

Ok guys thanks, what would you suggest, shotgun? Or for Liebig would 1” inside of 1-1/4 work?

[shadylane]

Ok guys thanks, what would you suggest, shotgun? Or for Liebig would 1” inside of 1-1/4 work?

My 2 cents
I'd use the liebig
Haven't tried 1" inside 1.25"
I had some 1.5" and that's what I used for the jacket

[passiton]

Shadylane, I do have a lot of 1.5”, and your inner was 1”? How did it work out for you?

[shadylane]

Real good

[jake_jimmylegs]

The liebig needs a smaller inner tube, 1 1/2 is about 3/4 to 1" too big - the vapour will just blow through the centre, if you need/want to keep it short, consider a multi tube shotgun or even a twin barrelled liebig - there was one posted in recent times, user reports no issues. You could also try for something like brutals https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 87&t=59998 to utilise spare large diameter tubes

You can achieve a lower minimum reflux ratio if you change the RC coil section to 2" to match the 2" valve (some would argue you will never use a 1:1 Ratio - you have enough packed height there to use it imho)

What RC said was, use 1/2" or 3/4" vapor tube. The calculator don't take into account flow dynamics and big vapor tubes don't work well unless they're long. If you want 2" x 24" liebig you should probably make a shotgun with 4 x 1/2" inside.

[passiton]

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Thanks guys, Glad I didn’t build it yet. Just finished the 3rd column. Still need to clean them up.

[passiton]

TO ALL, I just wanted to take the time to thank all who give good advice here. I know most questions are asked over and over again, and can be searched, my self, like I’m sure many others have searched this site for answers to their questions before joining and asking their own, even if it has been asked asked and answered many times over. They like me, I’m sure are just looking for confirmation and approval or help about their particular questions or build. So in short what I’m trying to say, is THANK YOU SO MUCH for you guys or girls who have been on here for a while and bother to answer all the questions of new people who just want to make the best thing they can with the ability they have. My self, I have great building skills but that doesn’t help here if what I build is not functional, as functional is the goal!
But beauty is also important to me at least, make it functional but also nice on the eyes, why not.
ANYWAY, THANKS TO ALL HELP OTHERS!!!! and those who pass it on.

[passiton]

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After some thought I figured I would go with a baffled 2”x24” purely for the symmetrical looks.
Can someone reading this help me with 3 questions

I have some brass 1/4 mip fitting with I.D of about 8.8 mm is this a good size for inlet and exit?
Is 24” to long? I happen to have a scrap piece of 2”x24 already cut.
Would 3 baffles be enough between end plates? I have read go every 2” but that seems over kill.

[Deplorable]

I think 1/4 will probalby be fine, I use very little water in my 20 in shotgun, my 1/2 inch gate valve is rarely more than just cracked open on my water manifold.
24 inches is more than adequate.
3 will likely be fine, more is better, run what you can, many folks build em without any baffels.
Suggestion: If you cut 4 inches off that pipe you can anneal the scrap and flatten it out to get a could more baffel plates out of the section.

[passiton]

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Thanks Dep. I still had some flat stock left so I whipped up one more baffle.

[passiton]

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Making some progress

[passiton]

Mock up,

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[Deplorable]

That will work real well. Make sure you drill and install your water ports in the jacket before you install the vapor tube stack.

[passiton]

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I did drill and tap ports before installing assembly. It is pressure checked, just need to solder water fittings on once I decide if I like these or not. I think it turned out pretty good for my first one, was not that to hard, just time consuming.

[passiton]

I silver brazed the 2” ferrule in first with safety-silv 45, then used silver solder for the rest.

[passiton]

I could use some advice on thermometer placement. Most designs I see have the thermometer coming in from the top of the tee on an angle towards the column.
Questions;
Could the thermometer come straight in from the side of tee close to the take off point, instead of from the top on an angle? Does it matter?
Should it be or can it be a blind port?

[Deplorable]

Why do you need a thermometer? What bearing does the temperature of the vapor have on your output? You either have the "valve" open, partially open, or closed. Vapor is either leaving the column, or going back to the boiler as condensate, and stacking fractions in the column.