Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
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Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
Hi all,
The compression fitting on my proofing parrot drain is leaking... there isn't enough space to remove the nut and replace the plumbing washer thing (i know v stupid of me). This also means there isn't enough space to move the nut far enough away from the compression washer to wrap it in PTFE.
I noticed it yesterday while doing my vinegar cleaning run - its such a tiny leak - not even big enough to drip was just pooling around the fitting v slowly. I should have stopped and fixed it properly by replacing the 15mm pipe but i didn't. I'm on to the second cleaning booze run now.
Is sealing it with Flour water paste a bad idea? I've given this ago by pushing some between the compression fitting and the nut then screwing it into place. I vaguely remember getting a rye ish taste from my alembic a few times maybe when a bit of flour got in by mistake. Might this happen this time as its sealing a leaking joint? - or will that taste wash out with this booze cleaning run and it'll be good for next week? Any other suggestions for how i can fix? - Its such a tiny loss i might even just leave it when i come to do my booze run next weekend but plz let me know
I want avoid sweating out the joint and then re-soldering a longer piece of 15mm pipe.
All the best
Big L
The compression fitting on my proofing parrot drain is leaking... there isn't enough space to remove the nut and replace the plumbing washer thing (i know v stupid of me). This also means there isn't enough space to move the nut far enough away from the compression washer to wrap it in PTFE.
I noticed it yesterday while doing my vinegar cleaning run - its such a tiny leak - not even big enough to drip was just pooling around the fitting v slowly. I should have stopped and fixed it properly by replacing the 15mm pipe but i didn't. I'm on to the second cleaning booze run now.
Is sealing it with Flour water paste a bad idea? I've given this ago by pushing some between the compression fitting and the nut then screwing it into place. I vaguely remember getting a rye ish taste from my alembic a few times maybe when a bit of flour got in by mistake. Might this happen this time as its sealing a leaking joint? - or will that taste wash out with this booze cleaning run and it'll be good for next week? Any other suggestions for how i can fix? - Its such a tiny loss i might even just leave it when i come to do my booze run next weekend but plz let me know
I want avoid sweating out the joint and then re-soldering a longer piece of 15mm pipe.
All the best
Big L
Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
Let it drip into a collection jar.
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- Bootlegger
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Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
+1 on collection jar.
collect and put on feints jar so you can use it later
collect and put on feints jar so you can use it later
Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
The flour paste does seem to have sealed it.. will it leave a nasty flavour when i'm doing my acutal run?
Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
My parrot looks really nice all polished up and sitting permanently on my fire place mantel right next to the temperature gauges.
Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
I don't think a bit of pasta would hurt, but I would think of adjusting it in the future. In general I am not a fan of parrots with direct connection to the product output, I prefer as a separate unit.
Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
There wouldn't any reason not to add it to the cut jar that is filling at the time.JesseMarques wrote: ↑Sun Mar 07, 2021 5:16 am +1 on collection jar.
collect and put on feints jar so you can use it later
- Saltbush Bill
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- Novice
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Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
I know its a little late but if that comp valve uses a brass comp ring id sweat that nickel plated brass nut to the pipe and call it good.
It looks like you struggled some with sweating those joints. Heres a few plumbers rules and hints for sweating copper and If you can always sweat HORIZONTALLY.
1. Always clean the pipe end and the fitting hub. Even and especially new pipe and fittings. I like emery cloth for pipe and fitting brushes for fittings. Sand paper or even a green scrubby pad will work for cleaning both. I even used a $20 bill once in a pinch.
2. Always use flux paste. Remember a little goes a long way. Brush it on thin and even, no blobs.
3. Always heat the fitting at the joint and not the pipe. Make sure your flame is on the fitting hub part of the joint.
4. If you are sweating copper bigger than 1/2" MAPP gas is required for a proper sweat. Propane wont cut it.
5. The Master plumber i worked under taught me that whenever you design piping systems if possible leave enough pipe to make at least one repair. That means on 1/2" pipe leave at least 1.5" between fittings and 2.25" for 3/4".
Try not to over heat the joint. I like to bend my solder about 3 inches 90 degrees. While heating your joint scratch the joint seam with your solder until you see it melt into the seam. Continue to apply light heat and apply solder to the top of the seam until you see a small drip on the bottom. Make sure you get the back side of the joint. Take away the heat and flick away the drip with your solder or wipe it away with a damp rag.
There are some good youtube vids on how to sweat copper. I got really good at it being a plumber in an area that used a lot of copper pipe.
I hope this info helps you and others sweat like the pros
It looks like you struggled some with sweating those joints. Heres a few plumbers rules and hints for sweating copper and If you can always sweat HORIZONTALLY.
1. Always clean the pipe end and the fitting hub. Even and especially new pipe and fittings. I like emery cloth for pipe and fitting brushes for fittings. Sand paper or even a green scrubby pad will work for cleaning both. I even used a $20 bill once in a pinch.
2. Always use flux paste. Remember a little goes a long way. Brush it on thin and even, no blobs.
3. Always heat the fitting at the joint and not the pipe. Make sure your flame is on the fitting hub part of the joint.
4. If you are sweating copper bigger than 1/2" MAPP gas is required for a proper sweat. Propane wont cut it.
5. The Master plumber i worked under taught me that whenever you design piping systems if possible leave enough pipe to make at least one repair. That means on 1/2" pipe leave at least 1.5" between fittings and 2.25" for 3/4".
Try not to over heat the joint. I like to bend my solder about 3 inches 90 degrees. While heating your joint scratch the joint seam with your solder until you see it melt into the seam. Continue to apply light heat and apply solder to the top of the seam until you see a small drip on the bottom. Make sure you get the back side of the joint. Take away the heat and flick away the drip with your solder or wipe it away with a damp rag.
There are some good youtube vids on how to sweat copper. I got really good at it being a plumber in an area that used a lot of copper pipe.
I hope this info helps you and others sweat like the pros
- Christ Kennedy
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Re: Leaking Compression fitting on my proofing parrot
not sure if this applies to you but
the steam in your pipes as an upside down siphon where the pressure in a rising pipe pushes falling steam in the same pipe.
if you set your condenser higher than your wash the steam rising up from the wash to the condenser pushes down on the steam dropping from the top of your worm down into the water.
if the condenser's water's surface is higher than the lid of your pot you can reduce the pressure needed inside your pot to push steam past the water mark in your condenser.
reduced pressure = fewer leaks
the steam in your pipes as an upside down siphon where the pressure in a rising pipe pushes falling steam in the same pipe.
if you set your condenser higher than your wash the steam rising up from the wash to the condenser pushes down on the steam dropping from the top of your worm down into the water.
if the condenser's water's surface is higher than the lid of your pot you can reduce the pressure needed inside your pot to push steam past the water mark in your condenser.
reduced pressure = fewer leaks
discipulus omnium rerum semper ero