My controller

[Stonecutter]

Thought I’d post an image of my 110 V control box. I run a 100k pot through a variable voltage relay.

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After reading some things in this thread I was using a 500k (hi) and a 5Ok (lo) pot setup but the single 100k works great. I’ve got two outlets (separately controlled) one for the pump and one for the heating element. That big ass fan is an Amazon order gone awry and is clearly overkill but I decided to keep the dang thing and it keeps the relay plenty cool. I used to have everything in a smaller box but I didn’t like how jumbled everything got. This way I can keep all the wires tight and zip tied out of the way. I used to run a PID controller....I know, I know, I’ve been lurking around here long enough to know the history. The PID ran fantastic at higher temps (195f-200f) but at lower temps the smearing and sputtering was not up to snuff. For my rig I found that if I throttle the voltage down to 48V-52V she purrs through the whole run. I’m new here and would greatly appreciate any comments or suggestions.

[Yummyrum]

Nice to see you using a metal enclosure . While plastic is easier to cut and file , metal is better in my opinion .

Some constructive criticism if may .
It is better constructional practice to have all earth ( ground) wires connect at a common point rather than each one randomly connecting to the case .In the case of a painted metal enclosure , the paint should be removed or Star washer used to “bite” through the paint .

You should try and avoid using splice connectors .Best practice is to have wires join each other by twisting strands together and connecting under a screw terminal .

[tiramisu]

Nice to see you using a metal enclosure . While plastic is easier to cut and file , metal is better in my opinion .

Some constructive criticism if may .
It is better constructional practice to have all earth ( ground) wires connect at a common point rather than each one randomly connecting to the case .In the case of a painted metal enclosure , the paint should be removed or Star washer used to “bite” through the paint .

You should try and avoid using splice connectors.Best practice is to have wires join each other by twisting strands together and connecting under a screw terminal.

Metal is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. Metal better doesn't make a lot of sense here.
You might like it better but from a materials perspective, a conductor for a junction box doesn't seem like a better solution.
Just saying. You are welcome to prefer metal boxes as you please.

[acfixer69]

Crimp fittings are the best. Nothing would piss me off more then stray twisted wires shooting out of a screwed connection. Just my experience over the years.

[Stonecutter]

I appreciate the replies. There is no paint on this box. I absolutely agree about splice points within the controller as well as the use of “crimp connectors”. There are plenty of terminals on my block and I need to “jump” the neutral line over to a new section in order to accommodate my demand. I agree with the grounding logic as well. It just makes sense to bring them all to one common bus bar. I prefer metal enclosures as “plastics” are thick and plenty of electrical systems are housed in metal enclosures. Per my occupation I have plenty of spare wire and will bring the whole setup up to par and provide pictures.

[Yummyrum]

Metal is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. Metal better doesn't make a lot of sense here.
You might like it better but from a materials perspective, a conductor for a junction box doesn't seem like a better solution.

Sorry to drag this off topic but in all due respect , you are correct that plastic is an insulator but the problem is that every exposed metal part that projects though the plastic from the inside has the potential to become live and create a shock hazard .This can be switches , Pots , Fans and fan guards , mounting nuts and bolts etc . Everything that is mounted inside the box needs nuts and bolts to secure it .

Ideally everyone of these should be grounded . The easy way is to use a metal enclosure . This then ensures that everything mounted is effectively grounded .

[tiramisu]

Metal is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. Metal better doesn't make a lot of sense here.
You might like it better but from a materials perspective, a conductor for a junction box doesn't seem like a better solution.

Sorry to drag this off topic but in all due respect , you are correct that plastic is an insulator but the problem is that every exposed metal part that projects though the plastic from the inside has the potential to become live and create a shock hazard .This can be switches , Pots , Fans and fan guards , mounting nuts and bolts etc . Everything that is mounted inside the box needs nuts and bolts to secure it .

Ideally everyone of these should be grounded . The easy way is to use a metal enclosure . This then ensures that everything mounted is effectively grounded .

@Yummyrum... Good point on the grounding. This is why I enjoy the forum so much. I learn things despite myself.

[ThomasBrewer]

Metal enclosures also offer some fire resistance when your SSR or SSVR goes tits-up. They often fail with a bit of fireworks.