brewhaus heater controller

[OklahomaShiner]

I couldn’t find any post about the brewhaus heater controller on the search engine so I was wondering who has used this controller and what’s your opinion about it?

[Demy]

Hi, I don't know the specific product but I bet it is an SCR, it should be fine if you can manage your power. I built something like that.

[greggn]

I couldn’t find any post about the brewhaus heater controller on the search engine so I was wondering who has used this controller and what’s your opinion about it?3C18285E-397F-4B60-8C74-92A83BB7B219.jpeg

Their previous model was just a router speed controller and was not suitable for the long duration of distillation runs. As a result, many (including myself) had them literally melt due to insufficient power handling/heat dissipation.

As a result of that failure I then built my own. That was 6 years ago and that one still runs fine. I'd highly suggest you build your own ... it's stupid simple.

[Saltbush Bill]

These DIY Controller Kits are of a similar price and have been proven many times over to be reliable.
https://stilldragon.com/diy-controller-kit.html

[still_stirrin]

It looks like a variac, adjusting the output voltage, not the current. A triac adjusts the duty cycle, by turning on and off during each cycle (or half cycle) of the voltage swing. Either device will control power, since it is voltage x current.

A variac is usually more expensive to build than a solid state relay (SSR), triac, or a SCR circuit. A variac has a variable transformer circuit that adjusts the output windings to change the voltage ratio.

I have no experience with that particular device, but I would pay close attention to the power rating. Heat build up in the controller could be a problem if you consistently run it at a high power output, meaning a high wattage heat element.
ss

[OklahomaShiner]

It looks like a variac, adjusting the output voltage, not the current. A triac adjusts the duty cycle, by turning on and off during each cycle (or half cycle) of the voltage swing. Either device will control power, since it is voltage x current.

A variac is usually more expensive to build than a solid state relay (SSR), triac, or a SCR circuit. A variac has a variable transformer circuit that adjusts the output windings to change the voltage ratio.

I have no experience with that particular device, but I would pay close attention to the power rating. Heat build up in the controller could be a problem if you consistently run it at a high power output, meaning a high wattage heat element.
ss

I thought, if I purchase this controller, I’ll open it up and see if it has a fan, if not I’ll see if I can add a small cpu fan or have a blowing on it for the time being.

[jonnys_spirit]

I'd ask Brewhouse about running it full power for extended periods and if there are any heat issues with that scenario.

[stogie]

I just recently purchased this controller from Brewhaus (following a miserable fail with one purchased from Affordable Distilling!!). I have made only three runs with this controller; but so far I am very pleased. As an added precaution I have a small desk fan blowing directly on the controller.

[Yummyrum]

t looks like a variac,

Naaa , It’ll be a bog standard Triac based controller .

A variac is usually more expensive to build than a solid state relay (SSR), triac, or a SCR circuit. A variac has a variable transformer circuit that adjusts the output windings to change the voltage ratio.

Exactly , and they are huge . A variac I used in my TV repair workshop was rated for a little over 500W was around 8” diameter and around 6” high . Theres no way they can fit a Variac that they claim can handle 4000W in a tiny box .

[BatGuano]

I think this is just a rebranded generic controller that is available from Chinese producers. I bought one from Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B094VM ... UTF8&psc=1 and have used it a couple of times with a 120v 1500w element. It seemed to work well (got a little warm). It can handle 240v 4000w, I have not tried that yet, but will report when i do (i have a 3500w element ready to go).

[rubberduck71]

I just recently purchased this controller from Brewhaus (following a miserable fail with one purchased from Affordable Distilling!!). I have made only three runs with this controller; but so far I am very pleased. As an added precaution I have a small desk fan blowing directly on the controller.

I'm glad to hear this. I picked it up recently to run my 35L Digiboil w/ separate 500W & 1000W elements. Figured for $65 it was a cheap gamble...

[OklahomaShiner]

I just recently purchased this controller from Brewhaus (following a miserable fail with one purchased from Affordable Distilling!!). I have made only three runs with this controller; but so far I am very pleased. As an added precaution I have a small desk fan blowing directly on the controller.

I purchased the controller last month! I have yet to use it on an actual run, but I will be using it this weekend when I do a vinegar cleaning run. I did test it out last weekend with my heater element in some water. I’m using a 120v 1500w element. On the output indicator it would show up to 113v and go as low as in 70s volts and then the indicator would would stop showing number or like turn off. Does that happen to you? Is this normal? This is my first time using electric and controllers so this stuff is new to me.

[still_stirrin]

I did test it out last weekend with my heater element in some water. I’m using a 120v 1500w element. <— This is the “spec’d” power rating of the element. The actual power consumption may vary from this because a heater element is simply a “resistor” that converts a current to heat and the voltage rating is the “potential” that the element can (safely) sustain before breaking down, or burning out.

On the output indicator it would show up to 113v and go as low as in 70s volts <— This sounds about right for a Triac controlled circuit since the circuit consumes a little of the voltage drop.

Consider too that a 115VAC power source has higher voltage peaks because of the sinusoidal curve (the 115VAC is only a root mean square —> RMS of the true voltage).

And the 70VAC reading is probably where the threshold is set (where the Triac “trigger” closes the circuit off).

and then the indicator would would stop showing number or like turn off. Does that happen to you? Is this normal? <— As stated already, it is “expected”.This is my first time using electric and controllers so this stuff is new to me.

Question 4U: Is the controller power “linear”, that is, as you turn the knob does the voltage adjust linearly? This would give you the best adjustment control within the power range needed for the element in service.

Note too, that if you’re using a 120V 1.5kW element, you’ll be running it above 1kW (70% power) for most of your runs. Even when doing a “wide open” strip run, your power will be as high as you can get it.
ss

[OklahomaShiner]

Question 4U: Is the controller power “linear”, that is, as you turn the knob does the voltage adjust linearly? This would give you the best adjustment control within the power range needed for the element in service.

Note too, that if you’re using a 120V 1.5kW element, you’ll be running it above 1kW (70% power) for most of your runs. Even when doing a “wide open” strip run, your power will be as high as you can get it.
ss

Thank you for the help and info. Yes, depending on which way you turn the knob power will either increase or decrease.

[rubberduck71]

FWIW: I run my Digiboil 35L 120v on this same controller. It has separate 1000w & 500w elements.

For stripping runs, I don't even hook up the controller & blast 1500w.

For spirit runs, full power on 1500w (indicator shows 113) until just before take off occurs. Then ~70 on just the 1000w give proper thin pencil lead off take. Usually need to bump it up in 2 steps to ~75 until ABV precipitously drops, at which point it's back to full power to strip the remainder.

Unit gets pretty warm at full power, but not unbearable to the touch. A small fan blowing on it couldn't hurt...

Duck

[OklahomaShiner]

FWIW: I run my Digiboil 35L 120v on this same controller. It has separate 1000w & 500w elements.

For stripping runs, I don't even hook up the controller & blast 1500w.

For spirit runs, full power on 1500w (indicator shows 113) until just before take off occurs. Then ~70 on just the 1000w give proper thin pencil lead off take. Usually need to bump it up in 2 steps to ~75 until ABV precipitously drops, at which point it's back to full power to strip the remainder.

Unit gets pretty warm at full power, but not unbearable to the touch. A small fan blowing on it couldn't hurt...

Duck

Does yours stay on when you go below 70v? When I was testing it I noticed that it got pretty warm, I put it in front of a fan and it cooled it all the way down, it wasn’t warm at all after that. I gotta buy a small fan just for the controller.

[rubberduck71]

Does yours stay on when you go below 70v? When I was testing it I noticed that it got pretty warm, I put it in front of a fan and it cooled it all the way down, it wasn’t warm at all after that. I gotta buy a small fan just for the controller.

I've heard (but not experienced) that the display will flicker below 50% on Brewzillas.

Since the Digiboil is a "dumbed down" version of Brewzilla, it only has a digital readout (think old-school clocks) of the temp. The Brewzilla has a much more complex display w/ more functions. I've had zero issues at 70v, but I've not gone below that very much as I didn't want to risk frying the board with insufficient power.

This is why I keep it on the 1000W only when using the controller. Previously (with no controller at all) I used to run on the 500W for spirits (after getting to heat-up temp), but output was "slow." Then when I got near the end I turned on the 1000W & the 500W off. But ABV dropped significantly & it was smearing badly (i.e. instant tails).

So with the 1000W @ 70v on the display (by my math ~62%), it's a decent output and I believe my heads cut gets "extended."

Duck

[Yummyrum]

On the output indicator it would show up to 113v and go as low as in 70s volts and then the indicator would would stop showing number or like turn off. Does that happen to you? Is this normal?

I’d be pretty confident in saying that the controller is still working below 70v , its just that you can’t see the numbers .

If you have one , plug an incandescent lamp into it and I bet you can smoothly adjust it from full brightness down to nothing .

The reason the numbers stop showing is that they have probably stuck a cheap chinese voltage meter in there that needs a minimum of 70volts for it to work .

[Rabid_Raccoon]

Mine works fine for distilling water and extracting oils in my 5 gallon rig running a 1500w heating element.

It does heat up a tad when really running it full power but I habitually slap a small computer cooling fan on everything so it has never been an issue.

One thing to note, an electrical contact came loose at some point and required about 5 mins of soldiering to reattach it.

Cheers!

RR

[stogie]

I just recently purchased this controller from Brewhaus (following a miserable fail with one purchased from Affordable Distilling!!). I have made only three runs with this controller; but so far I am very pleased. As an added precaution I have a small desk fan blowing directly on the controller.

UPDATE: After five 'runs' with my still, this controller has now dropped the max. output to only 102vdc ..... ?! I have contacted the seller; awaiting response.

[rubberduck71]

I just recently purchased this controller from Brewhaus (following a miserable fail with one purchased from Affordable Distilling!!). I have made only three runs with this controller; but so far I am very pleased. As an added precaution I have a small desk fan blowing directly on the controller.

UPDATE: After five 'runs' with my still, this controller has now dropped the max. output to only 102vdc ..... ?! I have contacted the seller; awaiting response.

It does get warm, almost borderline hot when running @ highest setting, but my "sweet spot" is between 75-80 volts. I did buy a small USB-powered fan to keep it cool. I'm running 120V Digiboil system.