240 volt control box

[Spowers2]

Hopefully somebody here can give me some info on this!
I'm wanting a control box to run 2- 5,500 watt elements.
I found one made by Oakstills and was wondering if anybody has any experience with one of these? It power ratings look capable enough, just have to finish a little wiring. Just wondering if this is a good way to go, or any other options. Thanks for any advise!

[acfixer69]

Post a link of what you are asking

[Spowers2]

https://www.oakstills.com/productinfo/217582.html

[shadylane]

Looks like great quality for $150.
Parts alone would cost that much.
Some vent holes and a fan would be a good idea.

[Spowers2]

Would surely add some vent holes & fan, might as well give it a try!

[Yummyrum]

I agree , it looks great value .... and it's in a metal box .... They do help keep the smoke in safely

Bit hard to freeze and zoom on that pic , but to me it looks like those "element switches" aren't directly disconnecting ( or isolating ) the elements . The wiring size would suggest that they just disconnect the Pot from the SSRV . It will work , but don't ever trust that the element is safely isolated or disconnected ... Just say'n ..... SSRVs can go leaky or short .

A real 40amp switch is a lot meatier than those .So don't rewire and use them to directly Isolate the elements especially if you are using 5500w element, they will melt .

From a standards point of view . All that green wiring is nasty wrong . Green should only ever be used for earth or ground and it's clear they are using it for live wiring .

Other than that , great starting point controller .

[SDEngr1]

Hopefully somebody here can give me some info on this!
I'm wanting a control box to run 2- 5,500 watt elements.
I found one made by Oakstills and was wondering if anybody has any experience with one of these? It power ratings look capable enough, just have to finish a little wiring. Just wondering if this is a good way to go, or any other options. Thanks for any advise!

Normally one of the elements would be switchable on or off and the other would have the variable heat setting. That way you could have 5,500 to 11,000 watts or if you need less than 5,500 watts you switch the one element off and would have 0 to 5,500 watt output. To have both elements variable serves no purpose.

[Yummyrum]

Hopefully somebody here can give me some info on this!
I'm wanting a control box to run 2- 5,500 watt elements.
I found one made by Oakstills and was wondering if anybody has any experience with one of these? It power ratings look capable enough, just have to finish a little wiring. Just wondering if this is a good way to go, or any other options. Thanks for any advise!

Normally one of the elements would be switchable on or off and the other would have the variable heat setting. That way you could have 5,500 to 11,000 watts or if you need less than 5,500 watts you switch the one element off and would have 0 to 5,500 watt output. To have both elements variable serves no purpose.

When running something that might scorch , being able to run two elements at half power is better than running one element at full power .

[LWTCS]

I agree , it looks great value .... and it's in a metal box .... They do help keep the smoke in safely

Bit hard to freeze and zoom on that pic , but to me it looks like those "element switches" aren't directly disconnecting ( or isolating ) the elements . The wiring size would suggest that they just disconnect the Pot from the SSRV . It will work , but don't ever trust that the element is safely isolated or disconnected ... Just say'n ..... SSRVs can go leaky or short .

A real 40amp switch is a lot meatier than those .So don't rewire and use them to directly Isolate the elements especially if you are using 5500w element, they will melt .

From a standards point of view . All that green wiring is nasty wrong . Green should only ever be used for earth or ground and it's clear they are using it for live wiring .

Other than that , great starting point controller .

Green is a standard in the far East. They don't really know why the West prefers not to use their color codes. Green wires are rife with electricity in the East.

And Yes I'd bet money their will be a current bleed.

It's one of those deals where you need to confirm everything and assume nothing.
Kinda like not relying on the rules of the road to avoid an accident. There are no rules therefore keep your eyes wide open and take note of all traffic flow.
Anyone from a Western country that has driven a car in an Eastern country knows exactly what I mean.
Well electrical components should be treated the same way. Assume nothing.

[Spowers2]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I went ahead and ordered one and I'll let you know how it works. I hope it handles the 11,000 watts, got me wondering if I should step in down a bit, I'm only working with a 26G aquarium.

[Salt Must Flow]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I went ahead and ordered one and I'll let you know how it works. I hope it handles the 11,000 watts, got me wondering if I should step in down a bit, I'm only working with a 26G aquarium.

Aquarium? What will you be using this controller for exactly? Just curious.

[Pure Old Possum Piss]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I went ahead and ordered one and I'll let you know how it works. I hope it handles the 11,000 watts, got me wondering if I should step in down a bit, I'm only working with a 26G aquarium.

That's some mighty nice nomenclature I'm about to adopt.
As in: I've got a little bitty 4" firewater breathing dragon that lives atop my 26g aquarium. If I keep her feeding aquarium properly filled with cornfish, she'll keep me supplied with her precious fire water breath. If I can catch the breath of my magical critter, and condense it, it can make for a very magical, and pleasing drop!

[The Booze Pipe]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I went ahead and ordered one and I'll let you know how it works. I hope it handles the 11,000 watts, got me wondering if I should step in down a bit, I'm only working with a 26G aquarium.

So how did the controller work out? Was 11,000 watts too much or just right?

[madspeed]

FWIW, I have the 22,000 watt version of this controller. Took a bit of messing with to get it functional, be glad to share my experience.

[LWTCS]

FWIW, I have the 22,000 watt version of this controller. Took a bit of messing with to get it functional, be glad to share my experience.

PXL_20230126_231611184.jpg

That the same controller being asked about over on the SD forum?

[Bigvalveturbo]

how did this box work out? i want to convert my propane set up to an electric...

[CoogeeBoy]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I went ahead and ordered one and I'll let you know how it works. I hope it handles the 11,000 watts, got me wondering if I should step in down a bit, I'm only working with a 26G aquarium.

Aquarium? What will you be using this controller for exactly? Just curious.

Broiled fish?

[lest1]

it looks like the box isnt earthed , id be earthing the enclosure and the door maybe adding a earth bar

i also earth my still

if something goes wrong you will appreciate it

[elbono]

it looks like the box isnt earthed , id be earthing the enclosure and the door maybe adding a earth bar

i also earth my still

if something goes wrong you will appreciate it

The earthing (grounding in the US) on anything is installed during installation. If you zoom in on the picture in the ad there is a hole marked as a earth point in the top left corner.

There isn't a bonding jumper to the door though, definitely a good thing to have/add.

[lest1]

it looks like the box isnt earthed , id be earthing the enclosure and the door maybe adding a earth bar

i also earth my still

if something goes wrong you will appreciate it

The earthing (grounding in the US) on anything is installed during installation. If you zoom in on the picture in the ad there is a hole marked as a earth point in the top left corner.

There isn't a bonding jumper to the door though, definitely a good thing to have/add.

i cant see the first pic but the door is kinda a must to be "Grounded"

for people that are not electricians it may seem trivial but its the most important part as a sparky

if the OP has any questions or querys dont be shy to post or message me , as its a very important saety concern and the community or myself would be happy to help

[elbono]

i cant see the first pic but the door is kinda a must to be "Grounded"

Like most things code related if it is required depends. In the US the door is required to be grounded if it is on lift off hinges. In Canada it is always required. I have no idea about the rest of the world. If it is a "NRTL listed" panel it only has to be installed by the manufacturers instructions. The manufacturer may gotten through the listing process without it.

Semantics aside, I am used to seeing this in industrial settings. It is definitely a good idea and not hard to do. If an electrician questioned something like this when I dealt with kind of stuff as an engineer my answer would have been "just do it".

[lest1]

i cant see the first pic but the door is kinda a must to be "Grounded"

Like most things code related if it is required depends. In the US the door is required to be grounded if it is on lift off hinges. In Canada it is always required. I have no idea about the rest of the world. If it is a "NRTL listed" panel it only has to be installed by the manufacturers instructions. The manufacturer may gotten through the listing process without it.

Semantics aside, I am used to seeing this in industrial settings. It is definitely a good idea and not hard to do. If an electrician questioned something like this when I dealt with kind of stuff as an engineer my answer would have been "just do it".

great reply

im an electrician from Australia

and there's no semantics in my posts im just wanting OP to have safe equipment

Edit: not worried about codes or regs just personal safety of anyone near the control box or still

[elbono]

I agree "just do it"

[CoogeeBoy]

i cant see the first pic but the door is kinda a must to be "Grounded"

Like most things code related if it is required depends. In the US the door is required to be grounded if it is on lift off hinges. In Canada it is always required. I have no idea about the rest of the world. If it is a "NRTL listed" panel it only has to be installed by the manufacturers instructions. The manufacturer may gotten through the listing process without it.

Semantics aside, I am used to seeing this in industrial settings. It is definitely a good idea and not hard to do. If an electrician questioned something like this when I dealt with kind of stuff as an engineer my answer would have been "just do it".

great reply

im an electrician from Australia

and there's no semantics in my posts im just wanting OP to have safe equipment

Edit: not worried about codes or regs just personal safety of anyone near the control box or still

An electrician in Queensland, you'd be the smartest bloke in the state I'm guessing.

[lest1]

i cant see the first pic but the door is kinda a must to be "Grounded"

Like most things code related if it is required depends. In the US the door is required to be grounded if it is on lift off hinges. In Canada it is always required. I have no idea about the rest of the world. If it is a "NRTL listed" panel it only has to be installed by the manufacturers instructions. The manufacturer may gotten through the listing process without it.

Semantics aside, I am used to seeing this in industrial settings. It is definitely a good idea and not hard to do. If an electrician questioned something like this when I dealt with kind of stuff as an engineer my answer would have been "just do it".

great reply

im an electrician from Australia

and there's no semantics in my posts im just wanting OP to have safe equipment

Edit: not worried about codes or regs just personal safety of anyone near the control box or still

An electrician in Queensland, you'd be the smartest bloke in the state I'm guessing.

haha not even regular qld, hillbilly nth qld

i take it your a southerner

[CoogeeBoy]

An electrician in Queensland, you'd be the smartest bloke in the state I'm guessing.

haha not even regular qld, hillbilly nth qld

i take it your a southerner

I am indeed!

[Yummyrum]

An electrician in Queensland, you'd be the smartest bloke in the state I'm guessing.

haha not even regular qld, hillbilly nth qld

i take it your a southerner

I am indeed!

Deed ….. ? Is that somewhere near Sydney ?

[CoogeeBoy]

An electrician in Queensland, you'd be the smartest bloke in the state I'm guessing.

haha not even regular qld, hillbilly nth qld

i take it your a southerner

I am indeed!

Deed ….. ? Is that somewhere near Sydney ?

[shadylane]

When running something that might scorch , being able to run two elements at half power is better than running one element at full power .

It also let's Ya run more total power before the wash begins to foam up and puke.

[Sean_Jeremy]

Apologies, my brain is a little scrambled right now for a few reasons. I thought taking a break to wire up some stuff would be a nice relaxing activity, but Icould use some guidance.

Finally got together everything I think I need to wire up my rig but I'm now running into something I'm not sure clear on, NEMA 14-30 vs 10-30.

I swapped over our dryer for 3 prong to 4 prong, and hooking things up made sense then, but I'm not gathering how where I'm suppose to land the neutral in what I'm trying to do.

I bought a male and female 14-30 twist lock plug, a 14-30 splitter so we can keep the dryer plugged in to reduce wear on the receptacle, and have my 10-3 wire on hand (as well as an extra 4 prong dryer plug I thought I'd be able to use).

Looking at the OakStills guide https://oakstills.com/pages/how-to-wire ... ontrollers looks like they just used 10-2 for power feeding into the breaker on the controller. Same thing with the Dernord heating element, just the 2 hots and a ground.

I just want to make sure I am doing things safely & properly.