New Build.
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New Build.
Just got done and running water before a vinagar clease. What you all think of build?
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- Master of Distillation
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Re: New Build.
Water line setup done look right.. not sure if it's going first to the bottom the PC or to the RC.. and if the water is being feed for that small pail, that wouldn't last long in a run.. for better efficiency individual lines would be best, providing better control of both condensers and both managed by a needle valve..
The RC looks on the small size, but could be mistaken.. hopefully you are mindful that the setup will not be much use for stripping, as it will be extremely slow due to the small PC.. but the PC should be ok for spirit run but not for stripping..
And the plastic at the end of the spout, should not be used.. instead make an extension using 3/8" copper tubing..
Mars
The RC looks on the small size, but could be mistaken.. hopefully you are mindful that the setup will not be much use for stripping, as it will be extremely slow due to the small PC.. but the PC should be ok for spirit run but not for stripping..
And the plastic at the end of the spout, should not be used.. instead make an extension using 3/8" copper tubing..
Mars
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- Salt Must Flow
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Re: New Build.
Yeah the Liebig condenser looks a bit short, but it might work fine if you are using high water flow. It looks like you're recycling water so high flow shouldn't be a problem as long as that chiller can keep up. For spirit runs it won't need but a fraction of the knockdown power in comparison to a stripping run.
- Yummyrum
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Re: New Build.
I think it will work just fine as a spirit run . Assuming that is CCST and it goes all the way down to the tee , it should be adiquate . I also think that the PC will be adiquate for the takeoff rate you’ll be using on a spirit run .
Looking at all the tri-clamps , I’m guessing you probably have ideas about removing the section above the tee and capping it to run in Pot still mode .
Please don’t . Not with that gate valve and PC . It’s a bomb scenerio waiting to happen .
Actually it’s a good thingbthat your PC is too small to be a useful stripping condenser because it will force you to make a bigger dedicated one that doesn’t have a bomb valve attached .
I seriously don't think that cooling setup will cope On either a long spirit run or Stripping session
Otherwise , nice setup
But I would strongly suggest that you make a copper extension pipe to divert the spirit well away from the still . As pictured , you will have highly flammable liquid being collected right next to a gas burner .
Looking at all the tri-clamps , I’m guessing you probably have ideas about removing the section above the tee and capping it to run in Pot still mode .
Please don’t . Not with that gate valve and PC . It’s a bomb scenerio waiting to happen .
Actually it’s a good thingbthat your PC is too small to be a useful stripping condenser because it will force you to make a bigger dedicated one that doesn’t have a bomb valve attached .
I seriously don't think that cooling setup will cope On either a long spirit run or Stripping session
Otherwise , nice setup
But I would strongly suggest that you make a copper extension pipe to divert the spirit well away from the still . As pictured , you will have highly flammable liquid being collected right next to a gas burner .
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
Re: New Build.
Is that valve a sharkbite?
Re: New Build.
To add to what Yummy said about the take off, some have put up a solid metal between the takeoff and the flame. Also didn’t see it mentioned earlier but you shouldn’t have plastic in either the vapor path or the takeoff. Looks like you added a plastic tube at the end of your takeoff.
- Twisted Brick
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Re: New Build.
Nice job, Shark! Love them keg stills. A sightglass tri-clamped below your tee will help give you an idea of what's goin' on inside your still until you get more experience. Whatcha packin'?
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Re: New Build.
You're headed down the right path but...
Your gate valve is unacceptable for our use as it is a SharkBite. There is plastic in them. I'd suggest a threaded one.
As mentioned above, and I'm sure your aware, the plastic hose on the end of the Liebig needs to be ditched after your sacrificial runs.
I'd like to know more about the chiller you have feeding your cooling water bucket.
A longer Liebig will get you much better efficiency during stripping runs as stated above, as well as give you the opportunity to get your high proof distillate farther away from your exposed flame for safety.
Your gate valve is unacceptable for our use as it is a SharkBite. There is plastic in them. I'd suggest a threaded one.
As mentioned above, and I'm sure your aware, the plastic hose on the end of the Liebig needs to be ditched after your sacrificial runs.
I'd like to know more about the chiller you have feeding your cooling water bucket.
A longer Liebig will get you much better efficiency during stripping runs as stated above, as well as give you the opportunity to get your high proof distillate farther away from your exposed flame for safety.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
Re: New Build.
Thanks for all the input. Ya I had planned on attaching the rrst of the copper at the end. My column is 4 foot plus another six till T. Packed with copper and marbles. Is Sharkbite really a problem? So removing top condenser and packing for pot still a bad idea? Should I remove packing and leave top condenser on with vent to avoid bomb?
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Re: New Build.
As stated
Ditch the shark bite
Ditch the tube on takeoff
Whip yourself up a dedicated pot head with no valve.
Larger product condenser.
Guard between flames and product.
Ditch the shark bite
Ditch the tube on takeoff
Whip yourself up a dedicated pot head with no valve.
Larger product condenser.
Guard between flames and product.
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