From the pic, it looks like 3/4" over 1/2" to me. There's a lot of different ways to make a Liebig Condenser. They all work the same, just more or less expensive depending on the combination of fittings. Here's just one link with some plans. More often than not, these days people spiral copper wire between the two pipes to increase efficiency. It makes the water spiral around through the Liebig instead of flowing straight through. I never did that with mine, it works fine, but people say it's ideal to do.rbsc wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:20 amYou guys are amazing. I guess I was going to do whatever size Liebig the Samohon plans called for, but now that I’m liking this one so much more I’ll have to start over and research what size works best with it. Either way I’m learning so much from y’all.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:07 am It looks like this reducer would work assuming you're going to use 1/2". It lists the dimensions so you should be able to easily confirm for yourself. Here's one 2"x3/4".
Here's another 2"x1/2", but the pic isn't of the actual fitting so I don't know if it will look the way you want it look. Appearance won't affect the function, but I'd prefer it to look like the one in the pic you listed.
When you're looking for reducers, FTG x C means the FTG end is the same outer diameter as copper pipe. The C end is the slightly flared end that copper pipe fits into. So 2"x1/2" FTGxC means ... 2" FTG x 1/2" C. I usually refer to them as male & female because there's only two You could use a CxC reducer, but it will require a piece of your 2" pipe to join them together. The one in your pic uses a FTG x C reducer.
I suck at this. Samohon build.
Moderator: Site Moderator
- Salt Must Flow
- Distiller
- Posts: 1920
- Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:06 pm
- Location: Wuhan China (Novel Coronavirus Laboratory)
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Off topic but that is one cracking Wapiti (Elk) in the background Windy!!Windy City wrote: ↑Thu Sep 22, 2022 6:55 pm This is my first still I ever built.
Very much off of Samohan’s design
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Thank you. Gonna start trying to break this down in detail this weekend.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:42 amFrom the pic, it looks like 3/4" over 1/2" to me. There's a lot of different ways to make a Liebig Condenser. They all work the same, just more or less expensive depending on the combination of fittings. Here's just one link with some plans. More often than not, these days people spiral copper wire between the two pipes to increase efficiency. It makes the water spiral around through the Liebig instead of flowing straight through. I never did that with mine, it works fine, but people say it's ideal to do.rbsc wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:20 amYou guys are amazing. I guess I was going to do whatever size Liebig the Samohon plans called for, but now that I’m liking this one so much more I’ll have to start over and research what size works best with it. Either way I’m learning so much from y’all.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:07 am It looks like this reducer would work assuming you're going to use 1/2". It lists the dimensions so you should be able to easily confirm for yourself. Here's one 2"x3/4".
Here's another 2"x1/2", but the pic isn't of the actual fitting so I don't know if it will look the way you want it look. Appearance won't affect the function, but I'd prefer it to look like the one in the pic you listed.
When you're looking for reducers, FTG x C means the FTG end is the same outer diameter as copper pipe. The C end is the slightly flared end that copper pipe fits into. So 2"x1/2" FTGxC means ... 2" FTG x 1/2" C. I usually refer to them as male & female because there's only two You could use a CxC reducer, but it will require a piece of your 2" pipe to join them together. The one in your pic uses a FTG x C reducer.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Did I already mess up? Sanded the inside of the column pipe until the tri clamp would fit. It’s super tight but was still planning on soldering. But I was just watching a video and this guy had a super complicated way he joined these two. Will my way work or do I need to rethink it?
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Your good, just make sure the clamp fits, sweat your solder in and enjoy. The fit just needs to be tight enough to wick the flux and solder in, it's pretty forgiving.
:)
-
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3387
- Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:27 pm
- Location: Ontario
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
What was stated above, plus making sure the ferrule is square to the pipe, otherwise is will be set at an angle..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
– Albert Einstein
– Albert Einstein
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Make sure the end of the pipe is square. It is super tight now but the pipe will probably end up hotter than the ferrule when you're soldering it and expand more making it loose enough to shift.
That has happened to me many times, pissed me off everytime. It's not a big deal, just heat it back up and take it apart. Clean it and try again. Like I said before, learn and adapt.
I always check my joints by sealing the end and putting 6-12 inches of water in it then let it sit on a paper towel for a while. Blind flanges are great for this but I used duct tape to seal the end until I bought some.
That has happened to me many times, pissed me off everytime. It's not a big deal, just heat it back up and take it apart. Clean it and try again. Like I said before, learn and adapt.
I always check my joints by sealing the end and putting 6-12 inches of water in it then let it sit on a paper towel for a while. Blind flanges are great for this but I used duct tape to seal the end until I bought some.
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Thank you, gentlemen. Slowly piecing this thing together. Learning a lot and enjoying the process. And, man, copper is so much prettier than stainless!
-
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3387
- Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:27 pm
- Location: Ontario
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Be mindful that copper ferrules are softer that stainless ferrules, and thereby be also mindful not to over tighten them with the tri clamp (being stainless) as they will grove the copper ferrule..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
– Albert Einstein
– Albert Einstein
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Did not know that, thanks!StillerBoy wrote: ↑Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:32 pmBe mindful that copper ferrules are softer that stainless ferrules, and thereby be also mindful not to over tighten them with the tri clamp (being stainless) as they will grove the copper ferrule..
Mars
- Windy City
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:52 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
They do not make a FTG (street) reducing 90. Just use a 1" x 3/4" 90 and a short piece of 1" between the 90 and the union.rbsc wrote: ↑Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:55 pm All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
Next you are going to need qty 2 - 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" tees (purchase it in that order). Sand/file out the stop on the 3/4" side so you can slide your 3/4" through.
Hope this helps.
The liver is evil and must be punished
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
It definitely helps, thank you. As you can tell I’m bad at picturing stuff in my head but I think I’m close enough to go to Home Depot and get my hands on these fittings, I’m sure that will help. The Liebig plans I have say 1” x3/4” x 3/4” tee, but I’m sure that’s a minor difference from what you’re saying. I’m assuming that 3/4 vs 1” side is just the hose fitting side. Thanks so much.Windy City wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 5:03 amThey do not make a FTG (street) reducing 90. Just use a 1" x 3/4" 90 and a short piece of 1" between the 90 and the union.rbsc wrote: ↑Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:55 pm All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
Next you are going to need qty 2 - 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" tees (purchase it in that order). Sand/file out the stop on the 3/4" side so you can slide your 3/4" through.
Hope this helps.
- EricTheRed
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1108
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:49 pm
- Location: South Africa
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
1 x 3/4 is for the water i/out
the other is for the inner tube
My fekking eyes are bleeding! Installed BS Filters - better! :D
Life has gotten interesting!
Life has gotten interesting!
- EricTheRed
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1108
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:49 pm
- Location: South Africa
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
goto my Liebeg build - pics start here viewtopic.php?p=7712310#p7712310
My fekking eyes are bleeding! Installed BS Filters - better! :D
Life has gotten interesting!
Life has gotten interesting!
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Right. My mistake. I meant to say the 1/2” vs 3/4” is the different hose size barb. I’ll just mean sure my hoses to see what I have. Thanks.EricTheRed wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 6:59 am image.png
the 1" is for the outer jacket
1 x 3/4 is for the water i/out
the other is for the inner tube
- Windy City
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:52 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
This is the tee I am talking about
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-x-3-4-x-1-2-copper-tee
You only need a 1/2” port for your cooling water
When calling out sizes for tees the last number is always the branch and sizing is also called out with the tee in the vertical starting with your largest size.
So in this case the bottom of the tee is 1” the top of the tee is 3/4” and the branch is 1/2”
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-x-3-4-x-1-2-copper-tee
You only need a 1/2” port for your cooling water
When calling out sizes for tees the last number is always the branch and sizing is also called out with the tee in the vertical starting with your largest size.
So in this case the bottom of the tee is 1” the top of the tee is 3/4” and the branch is 1/2”
The liver is evil and must be punished
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
- EricTheRed
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1108
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:49 pm
- Location: South Africa
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
WindyCity - that link is broken
here's a annotated pic of what is requested
here's a annotated pic of what is requested
My fekking eyes are bleeding! Installed BS Filters - better! :D
Life has gotten interesting!
Life has gotten interesting!
- Salt Must Flow
- Distiller
- Posts: 1920
- Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:06 pm
- Location: Wuhan China (Novel Coronavirus Laboratory)
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
There's many ways to build and plumb a Liebig condenser. I used 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" Tees. I soldered a 3/4" x 1/2" flush copper reducer in the water feed side then tapped 3/8" npt threads. The flush reducer made it so I could then screw the water supply fitting directly into the tee rather than soldering a copper female threaded fitting to the tee making it longer longer than it has to be. I don't know if anyone makes flush reducer that are already threaded on the interior.
Last edited by Salt Must Flow on Thu Sep 29, 2022 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Thanks, so helpful!EricTheRed wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:03 am goto my Liebeg build - pics start here viewtopic.php?p=7712310#p7712310
Almost done asking questions, everyone. This is the correct union I want, yes?
Supply Giant DDDV0100 1" Nominal Size Lead Free Copper Straight Union with Sweat Sockets for Use with 1-1/8" OD Copper Pipe https://a.co/d/9QImnWP
- Windy City
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:52 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
I would recommend this (available from many suppliers)
https://hardwareandmoreee.com/products/ ... M8QAvD_BwE
It is copper wrought x copper wrought instead of copper wrought x copper cast
Easier to solder
https://hardwareandmoreee.com/products/ ... M8QAvD_BwE
It is copper wrought x copper wrought instead of copper wrought x copper cast
Easier to solder
The liver is evil and must be punished
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Ordered. Thank you.Windy City wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 5:04 pm I would recommend this (available from many suppliers)
https://hardwareandmoreee.com/products/ ... M8QAvD_BwE
It is copper wrought x copper wrought instead of copper wrought x copper cast
Easier to solder
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
All right guys, today is my big day of learning to solder. But of course I already realized I’ve kind of messed up. The first thing I did in this process was making sure the tri clamp ferrule fit in the two inch column pipe. It is a darn tight fit, I had to sand the pipe out a bit and bang the whole thing on the floor to get it in. But of course I still need to solder it. Well, now I’ve learned you can’t solder without applying flux first. So. Do I have to figure out a way to get this thing out so I can flux it first?
- Attachments
-
- EECACF64-C8BD-4E60-8A3F-E9AF26E9F806.jpeg (38.32 KiB) Viewed 1173 times
- Windy City
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:52 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
If you use a liquid flux like stay-clean you will probably be able to get away with just dousing it
Last edited by Windy City on Sun Oct 02, 2022 12:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The liver is evil and must be punished
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Cranky"s spoon feeding for new and novice distillers
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=52975
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Thank you. Can only find flux paste at local stores so maybe it isn’t my big day after all. Or maybe I’ll start with the bigger joints and use the paste. Either way, thanks for the help.Windy City wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:44 am If you use a liquid fix like stay-clean you will probably be able to get away with just dousing it
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Tap it out with a block of wood. If you're gentle, you won't deform the copper.
Edit: if it's too tight to tap out, try heating the outer pipe, it'll expand and you can pull the ferrule out then.
Edit: if it's too tight to tap out, try heating the outer pipe, it'll expand and you can pull the ferrule out then.
“Awards are merely the badges of mediocrity.”
― Charles Ives
― Charles Ives
- Yummyrum
- Global moderator
- Posts: 7653
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
If its your first go , I’d definitely seperate it so you can get the flux on all surfaces . Solder works by capillary action . You ideally need a very small gap between surfaces so the solder can pull in and join the two .
Tap it out , sand it a bit more so its an easier fit ,flux it and solder it .
If you apply heat to expand joint , chances are you will oxidise the copper so that the solder won’t stick ( thats the job if the flux , to prevent oxidising as you heat it) . No big deal though , just sand both surfaces clean to remove oxide and off you go .
Infact , staino scrubbers are my best friend when soldering , they clean copper surfaces really well .
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
-
- Site Donor
- Posts: 274
- Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 12:22 am
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Also, when you go to tap it out, dont just whang on one side. Tippy-tap all the way around to slowly work it out without cocking it to one side. Just tippy tap it, dont go whanging on it! Better to go slow and not damage it than damage it in one swift whack.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
Thanks, guys. Great tips. Knocked out two stripping runs yesterday so didn’t get to this after all but will tonight. Thanks again.
Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.
You guys would’ve gotten quite the laugh at my attempt. Apparently my cheap little propane torch isn’t quite big enough for 2 inch pipe, the damn solder just kept breaking off instead of melting. Guess I have to invest in a better torch.