I suck at this. Samohon build.

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Salt Must Flow
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Salt Must Flow »

rbsc wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:20 am
Salt Must Flow wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:07 am It looks like this reducer would work assuming you're going to use 1/2". It lists the dimensions so you should be able to easily confirm for yourself. Here's one 2"x3/4".

Here's another 2"x1/2", but the pic isn't of the actual fitting so I don't know if it will look the way you want it look. Appearance won't affect the function, but I'd prefer it to look like the one in the pic you listed.

When you're looking for reducers, FTG x C means the FTG end is the same outer diameter as copper pipe. The C end is the slightly flared end that copper pipe fits into. So 2"x1/2" FTGxC means ... 2" FTG x 1/2" C. I usually refer to them as male & female because there's only two :ewink: You could use a CxC reducer, but it will require a piece of your 2" pipe to join them together. The one in your pic uses a FTG x C reducer.
You guys are amazing. I guess I was going to do whatever size Liebig the Samohon plans called for, but now that I’m liking this one so much more I’ll have to start over and research what size works best with it. Either way I’m learning so much from y’all.
From the pic, it looks like 3/4" over 1/2" to me. There's a lot of different ways to make a Liebig Condenser. They all work the same, just more or less expensive depending on the combination of fittings. Here's just one link with some plans. More often than not, these days people spiral copper wire between the two pipes to increase efficiency. It makes the water spiral around through the Liebig instead of flowing straight through. I never did that with mine, it works fine, but people say it's ideal to do.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Archee72 »

Windy City wrote: Thu Sep 22, 2022 6:55 pm This is my first still I ever built.
Very much off of Samohan’s design
Off topic but that is one cracking Wapiti (Elk) in the background Windy!!
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Salt Must Flow wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:42 am
rbsc wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:20 am
Salt Must Flow wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 11:07 am It looks like this reducer would work assuming you're going to use 1/2". It lists the dimensions so you should be able to easily confirm for yourself. Here's one 2"x3/4".

Here's another 2"x1/2", but the pic isn't of the actual fitting so I don't know if it will look the way you want it look. Appearance won't affect the function, but I'd prefer it to look like the one in the pic you listed.

When you're looking for reducers, FTG x C means the FTG end is the same outer diameter as copper pipe. The C end is the slightly flared end that copper pipe fits into. So 2"x1/2" FTGxC means ... 2" FTG x 1/2" C. I usually refer to them as male & female because there's only two :ewink: You could use a CxC reducer, but it will require a piece of your 2" pipe to join them together. The one in your pic uses a FTG x C reducer.
You guys are amazing. I guess I was going to do whatever size Liebig the Samohon plans called for, but now that I’m liking this one so much more I’ll have to start over and research what size works best with it. Either way I’m learning so much from y’all.
From the pic, it looks like 3/4" over 1/2" to me. There's a lot of different ways to make a Liebig Condenser. They all work the same, just more or less expensive depending on the combination of fittings. Here's just one link with some plans. More often than not, these days people spiral copper wire between the two pipes to increase efficiency. It makes the water spiral around through the Liebig instead of flowing straight through. I never did that with mine, it works fine, but people say it's ideal to do.
Thank you. Gonna start trying to break this down in detail this weekend.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Did I already mess up? Sanded the inside of the column pipe until the tri clamp would fit. It’s super tight but was still planning on soldering. But I was just watching a video and this guy had a super complicated way he joined these two. Will my way work or do I need to rethink it?
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Ben »

Your good, just make sure the clamp fits, sweat your solder in and enjoy. The fit just needs to be tight enough to wick the flux and solder in, it's pretty forgiving.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by StillerBoy »

Ben wrote: Sat Sep 24, 2022 7:47 am Your good, just make sure the clamp fits, sweat your solder in and enjoy. The fit just needs to be tight enough to wick the flux and solder in, it's pretty forgiving.
What was stated above, plus making sure the ferrule is square to the pipe, otherwise is will be set at an angle..

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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by elbono »

Make sure the end of the pipe is square. It is super tight now but the pipe will probably end up hotter than the ferrule when you're soldering it and expand more making it loose enough to shift.

That has happened to me many times, pissed me off everytime. It's not a big deal, just heat it back up and take it apart. Clean it and try again. Like I said before, learn and adapt.

I always check my joints by sealing the end and putting 6-12 inches of water in it then let it sit on a paper towel for a while. Blind flanges are great for this but I used duct tape to seal the end until I bought some.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Thank you, gentlemen. Slowly piecing this thing together. Learning a lot and enjoying the process. And, man, copper is so much prettier than stainless!
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by StillerBoy »

rbsc wrote: Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:22 pm Learning a lot and enjoying the process. And, man, copper is so much prettier than stainless!
Be mindful that copper ferrules are softer that stainless ferrules, and thereby be also mindful not to over tighten them with the tri clamp (being stainless) as they will grove the copper ferrule..

Mars
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

StillerBoy wrote: Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:32 pm
rbsc wrote: Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:22 pm Learning a lot and enjoying the process. And, man, copper is so much prettier than stainless!
Be mindful that copper ferrules are softer that stainless ferrules, and thereby be also mindful not to over tighten them with the tri clamp (being stainless) as they will grove the copper ferrule..

Mars
Did not know that, thanks!
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Windy City »

rbsc wrote: Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:55 pm All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
They do not make a FTG (street) reducing 90. Just use a 1" x 3/4" 90 and a short piece of 1" between the 90 and the union.
Next you are going to need qty 2 - 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" tees (purchase it in that order). Sand/file out the stop on the 3/4" side so you can slide your 3/4" through.
Hope this helps.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Windy City wrote: Thu Sep 29, 2022 5:03 am
rbsc wrote: Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:55 pm All right, guys. I’m trying hard to do this on my own without asking a ton of questions, but I’m stuck. I’ve google a hundred different fittings and I just can’t seem to find what I think I need, so I guess I’m misunderstanding. I’m good up to the one inch pipe from the reducer. Then, I think I want a one inch sweat union that’s c x c. If that’s correct then the next step is where I’m lost. I’m planning 3/4 inch condenser pipe. So coming from the union I would want a street elbow that’s one inch to 3/4 inch (f x c). Is that wrong, because I can’t seem to find it unless the pic I’m including is it. But to me the sizes seem to be on the wrong ends if that makes sense. But it’s the closest I can find. Sorry if I’m way off base. I’m trying.
They do not make a FTG (street) reducing 90. Just use a 1" x 3/4" 90 and a short piece of 1" between the 90 and the union.
Next you are going to need qty 2 - 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" tees (purchase it in that order). Sand/file out the stop on the 3/4" side so you can slide your 3/4" through.
Hope this helps.
It definitely helps, thank you. As you can tell I’m bad at picturing stuff in my head but I think I’m close enough to go to Home Depot and get my hands on these fittings, I’m sure that will help. The Liebig plans I have say 1” x3/4” x 3/4” tee, but I’m sure that’s a minor difference from what you’re saying. I’m assuming that 3/4 vs 1” side is just the hose fitting side. Thanks so much.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by EricTheRed »

image.png
the 1" is for the outer jacket

1 x 3/4 is for the water i/out

the other is for the inner tube
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by EricTheRed »

goto my Liebeg build - pics start here viewtopic.php?p=7712310#p7712310
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

EricTheRed wrote: Thu Sep 29, 2022 6:59 am image.png

the 1" is for the outer jacket

1 x 3/4 is for the water i/out

the other is for the inner tube
Right. My mistake. I meant to say the 1/2” vs 3/4” is the different hose size barb. I’ll just mean sure my hoses to see what I have. Thanks.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Windy City »

This is the tee I am talking about
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-x-3-4-x-1-2-copper-tee

You only need a 1/2” port for your cooling water
When calling out sizes for tees the last number is always the branch and sizing is also called out with the tee in the vertical starting with your largest size.
So in this case the bottom of the tee is 1” the top of the tee is 3/4” and the branch is 1/2”
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by EricTheRed »

WindyCity - that link is broken
here's a annotated pic of what is requested
image.png
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Salt Must Flow »

There's many ways to build and plumb a Liebig condenser. I used 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" Tees. I soldered a 3/4" x 1/2" flush copper reducer in the water feed side then tapped 3/8" npt threads. The flush reducer made it so I could then screw the water supply fitting directly into the tee rather than soldering a copper female threaded fitting to the tee making it longer longer than it has to be. I don't know if anyone makes flush reducer that are already threaded on the interior.

Flush Copper Reducer.jpg
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

EricTheRed wrote: Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:03 am goto my Liebeg build - pics start here viewtopic.php?p=7712310#p7712310
Thanks, so helpful!

Almost done asking questions, everyone. This is the correct union I want, yes?

Supply Giant DDDV0100 1" Nominal Size Lead Free Copper Straight Union with Sweat Sockets for Use with 1-1/8" OD Copper Pipe https://a.co/d/9QImnWP
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Windy City »

I would recommend this (available from many suppliers)
https://hardwareandmoreee.com/products/ ... M8QAvD_BwE
It is copper wrought x copper wrought instead of copper wrought x copper cast
Easier to solder
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Windy City wrote: Thu Sep 29, 2022 5:04 pm I would recommend this (available from many suppliers)
https://hardwareandmoreee.com/products/ ... M8QAvD_BwE
It is copper wrought x copper wrought instead of copper wrought x copper cast
Easier to solder
Ordered. Thank you.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

All right guys, today is my big day of learning to solder. But of course I already realized I’ve kind of messed up. The first thing I did in this process was making sure the tri clamp ferrule fit in the two inch column pipe. It is a darn tight fit, I had to sand the pipe out a bit and bang the whole thing on the floor to get it in. But of course I still need to solder it. Well, now I’ve learned you can’t solder without applying flux first. So. Do I have to figure out a way to get this thing out so I can flux it first?
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Windy City »

If you use a liquid flux like stay-clean you will probably be able to get away with just dousing it
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Windy City wrote: Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:44 am If you use a liquid fix like stay-clean you will probably be able to get away with just dousing it
Thank you. Can only find flux paste at local stores so maybe it isn’t my big day after all. Or maybe I’ll start with the bigger joints and use the paste. Either way, thanks for the help.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by juana_b »

Tap it out with a block of wood. If you're gentle, you won't deform the copper.
Edit: if it's too tight to tap out, try heating the outer pipe, it'll expand and you can pull the ferrule out then.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Yummyrum »

juana_b wrote: Sun Oct 02, 2022 8:36 am Tap it out with a block of wood. If you're gentle, you won't deform the copper.
Edit: if it's too tight to tap out, try heating the outer pipe, it'll expand and you can pull the ferrule out then.
If its your first go , I’d definitely seperate it so you can get the flux on all surfaces . Solder works by capillary action . You ideally need a very small gap between surfaces so the solder can pull in and join the two .

Tap it out , sand it a bit more so its an easier fit ,flux it and solder it .

If you apply heat to expand joint , chances are you will oxidise the copper so that the solder won’t stick ( thats the job if the flux , to prevent oxidising as you heat it) . No big deal though , just sand both surfaces clean to remove oxide and off you go .

Infact , staino scrubbers are my best friend when soldering , they clean copper surfaces really well .
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by Metalking00 »

Also, when you go to tap it out, dont just whang on one side. Tippy-tap all the way around to slowly work it out without cocking it to one side. Just tippy tap it, dont go whanging on it! Better to go slow and not damage it than damage it in one swift whack.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

Thanks, guys. Great tips. Knocked out two stripping runs yesterday so didn’t get to this after all but will tonight. Thanks again.
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Re: I suck at this. Samohon build.

Post by rbsc »

You guys would’ve gotten quite the laugh at my attempt. Apparently my cheap little propane torch isn’t quite big enough for 2 inch pipe, the damn solder just kept breaking off instead of melting. Guess I have to invest in a better torch.
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