No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Vapor, Liquid or Cooling Management. Flutes, plates, etc.

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Salt Must Flow
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

30xs is right. 3" has 2.29 times the cross-sectional area of 2". 4" has nearly twice the cross-sectional area of 3". 3" is ideal unless you don't mind running quite slow. 2" with SPP will supposedly run faster.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by 30xs »

On mine I went 4” on the keg, because I can get my arm into a 4” if the need arises. I just built reducers that allows me to run 2” and 3”. I usually strip through a 2”, run a mixture of strip and wash on 4” plates, and building a 3” column for neutrals. I highly recommend a drain. A fill port is nice for faster back to back stripping runs. When you ferment in barrels it will be appreciated.

On your cooking water, since you want to go CM I’d suggest running straight from your house water supply for the dephleg. Run it through a pressure regulator and a 1/4” needle valve. You could run the condenser from a barrel of water and recirculate if you wanted to save a little water. Trying to run a CM while recirculating water gets fiddly as the reservoir warms up and makes the run a little more difficult. It can be done, but with a stable supply to the CM it’s much easier.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

I am looking into what solder to use. Sound like lead free plumbing solder is what to use generally. I should also avoid antimony and cadmium from what I've read.

Any tips on exactly what solder to use?

Maybe thisOatey Safety-Flo: https://a.co/d/6nyJXwg

The MSDS/SDS doesn't mention any cadmium or antimony:
https://www.eng.uwo.ca/files/department ... solder.pdf

Harris Safety-Silv looks similar with higher silver% options:
https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com.au/ ... Alloys.pdf

???
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

I've only ever used [ur=https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... ies/27159l]this solder[/url] from Ace Hardware. I never really analyzed its makeup, but it works. I hesitated replying because I had nothing technical to add.

That's a pretty good price on that Oatey solder.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Just_Doug »

For my condenser build I used Stay bright #8 for solder and Rub's stainless steel flux. Only soldered copper but worked like a charm.

D.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

The lead free oatey I linked above has antimony in it.

Silverflo - Canfield - MSDS: https://www.canfieldmetals.com/assets/s ... ata-sheet/
KappFree - KappAlloy - MSDS: https://www.kappalloy.com/pub/media/pdf ... Silver.pdf
Both manufacturers advertise them as cadmium free & lead free. Both of these have less silver and more copper than StayBrite#8

96/4 - Canfield is advertised as cadmium free, 4% silver. MSDS: https://www.canfieldmetals.com/assets/9 ... ata-sheet/

StayBrite#8 looks good too from what I can search out. MSDS:https://www.rsd.net/assets/item/1130.pdf
-A few sellers advertise it as cadmium free, I can't find the manufacturer saying that though?
-I'd like to go with this one because its been recommended as easy to use, but really want to make sure it is safe before buying it or anything else.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by acfixer69 »

This states that it is only Silver and tin.

https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com ... v=a156575a
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

Organizing tools and safety eq; about to cut a keg and do some soldering. I've ended up with a few kegs, just now removed the valves and rinsed them out a bit:
IMG_20221204_103306.jpg
New kegs were cheaper than the first one, 150 for 4. I got the two small kegs to use as storage containers. I am planning on using one of the end ones for this initial attempt.

I need to look up about where to put the 2" ferrule for the heating element so that it's not too high or low. And I might add a 2" fill port as well.

Plan is to put the 4" ferrule for the column on the bottom of the keg and drain from the top of the keg, using some sort of stand to elevate it off the drain elbow+valve.

There will be a trip to the store for a cheap grinding polishing set for the die grinder and a quick connect air piece before I start. And I should probably go by the thrift store to get a stainless pan to practice on before cutting a keg. Trying to get it all in today.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

Good collection of kegs :thumbup:

If you install a ferrule right where this pic shows, it will require 2-3/4 gal to just cover the element. Be sure to install this ferrule straight/horizontal/level because if you have it tilted up, it will require even more to cover the tip of the element.
Element Placement.jpg
2.75 gal Element.jpg
I converted one keg into a keggle/kettle. I cut a concentric circle of the top so a large frying pan lid fits perfectly. I installed a 2" ferrule down low so it can be heated with an element, but it can also be heated over a burner. I installed a drain spigot on the side as low as I could as well as a thermowell. It's very handy for heating/boiling water. Open the valve and it can be dumped right out.

I use a keg I use for storing Feints.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

It is a good thing I got a few cheaper kegs and started on the most banged up one, got a bit happy with the cutting disc:
signal-2022-12-04-16-32-56-178.jpg
I think I can fill that gap when I solder everything tomorrow. Might try to stick a bit of copper wire in there to help it fill?

I'll also angle that ferrule for the element as close to the bottom as I can reasonably get it, thanks for the advice.

I ended up doing ok with the angle grinder and die grinder, I feel like I should have looked for a ~3" cutting disc instead of the 4" I used. Took about 2 hours to do everything, would have been less if my air compressor was a bit faster to fill the tank. The ferrules are just getting pinched enough that they are held in place, using permanent marker to draw both the inside and outside of the ferrule helped a lot.
signal-2022-12-04-16-32-33-125.jpg
Going to clean it up a bit tommorow, sand with sanding discs, ? paint on some muriatic acid with a small hair brush?, then come back later to flux and solder everything. Do I need the acid? Would phosphoric acid at ~66% work better/safer? What's the right acid to use, if I should use some?
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

signal-2022-12-22-09-25-11-286 - Copy.jpg
Needs to be cleaned up but I got the ferrules soldered in and no water drips out when I fill the keg and let it sit for hours.

Seems like I had an easier time soldering when I used some solid copper wire, 18ga I think, wrapped once around the ferrule and pushed up next to the keg. I did the ugly cut in the earlier picture without wire though, was the first one and I didn't think of it in time, but would have made that one easier too in my opinion.

I'm going to go buy some vinegar before I get snowed in then I'm going to do a cleaning run and see how it does.

I'm not wired for the 5000 watt element yet, electrician friend of is supposed to get it in soon though, but I do have a couple 1650W 120v elements. I'll use one of them and some 50/50 vinegar/water. Going to be reading about cleaning runs before I do it, hoping to get it in today.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

Really good solder job! My only concern would be for the ferrules that secure the column. They can experience a significant amount of leverage at times.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

The one for the element was the first one I tried, it's a good bit uglier than the fill port and column solders. I'll post it up once I manage to get this cleaning run started.

The column will go on the one in the picture, it's a 4" ferrule. It feels solid, I tried to pull and push on it as hard as I could, it didn't budge without the column. I'll attach the column, lever it around a bit and see if that breaks the solder when I get home. Ran out of time yesterday doing xmass stuff and didn't run the vinegar. It's ready to run though, probably get it done today or tomorrow. Need to start a wash too.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Yummyrum »

Nice work Heavy :thumbup:

That copper wire trick has made a great fillet . Between that and the butt solder of the ferrule to keg , I think you’d be hard pressed to ever be able to rip that joint apart .
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Twisted Brick »

Yummyrum wrote: Fri Dec 23, 2022 1:50 pm Nice work Heavy :thumbup:
+1

Gonna be a treat to see Heavy's skills in action on the rest of the build!
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by acfixer69 »

I always hate the doubt of solder strength when sharing a build. Welding is much stronger but is not needed. Even with a butt fit,.the copper wire hack is stronger and I use it also for sloppy fits. Of course I am saying the solder has to be done properly. Leakfree is not the same as 100% bond.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

Thanks for all the encouragement! and information! I feel like that picture is deceptive because it doesn't show my first attempt, it is way more embarrassing. I may have to redo the first ferrule I put in the keg, it's way uglier than the other two. It is for the heating element. I'm planning to clean it up a bit with the die grinder then vinegar run it as it is. I'm not sure not its 100% bonded all around, but it is water tight for now at least. If there are issues there I'll re-do the solder. I'm not sure how well it will work to melt off most of the first attempt solder then re-solder everything, I'd think it wouldn't add too the difficultly? I'd also be adding some copper wire to help it along which I didn't do the first time.

I bought a stainless shotgun condenser 400mm, defleg 200mm, and sanitary tubes all in 2" off amazon as a ready to go column kit. Saw a couple people that got them here and had them work well but I am concerned about knock down power.

I'm still planning to assemble my own in 3" stainless probably as a ccvm and then use the 2" kit on the second still. May also convert the 2" kit to ccvm.

Here's a thread by @rockymars that has this same kit and covers knockdown power relative to heating power which is my next major consideration: viewtopic.php?t=88192&hilit=knockdown

It sounds like 600mm of 2" stainless shotgun has at least the ability to knockdown 3.5kw of power at the element "with a trickle of water". I feel like at the worst I buy the kit a second time and combine the 2 kits to extend the tower and add another 600 mm worth of stainless shotgun condenser then I can get close to maxing my stripping speed based on 10kw input? It would be funny looking with all the water lines though!

I'm still after additional good estimates for what wattage element matches to what condenser size/type, and what is most cost(+build-time) efficient? And in my case to use as a condenser for a 15.5 gallon boiler possibly used with 11000 total watts?

My max input power is limited by my sub-panel which will have nothing else but garage lights on it. The panel in the space I have is 100 amps 240v, that should mean maxing out my total element wattage out around 20 kilowatts. I am assuming that 10kw is close to the practical usage max for a 15.5 gallon keg boiler, but I'm still trying to figure that out? The biggest element I have currently is 5500 watts. I'd like to run 2 10kw 15.5 gal keg boilers at once to get through stripping faster.

I would consider building a condenser, but the prices for some of them seem low enough for the knockdown power they provide that buying a finished one seems worth it. I'm hoping the 2" kit i bought can let me run the boiler at at least 5000watts start to finish.

For the same wattage, I guess to do a faster stripping run the column diameter needs to be bigger to prevent smearing by reducing vapor speed? Is that the correct physics, what's going on there? I was initially planning on using the wider 3" diameter throughout because I wanted to maximize knockdown power to reduce the time required to do runs, I even considered increasing the size of the vapor path at the condenser to account for the constriction of the shotgun, not sure what's the best practice?

My current plan is to run the stainless shotgun increasing wattage using a power controller until I find the point where condensate is getting too hot or other flow problems arise, then use that info to get my practical estimate of what I need to do to knockdown ~10kw at the boiler.

I thought about building a liebig because people say they are a simple build but dang if copper isn't expensive as all get out! Then there's the coiled copper or the cheaper coiled corrugated stainless steel in a sanitary tube, I could probably build that. Soldering a shotgun condenser kit together is probably something I could pull off but a bit daunting time and skill wise. It is not easy to figure out the best knockdown power for the price either buying or building!
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

I've never used one of those stainless shotgun condensers before, but I also don't recall anyone saying it wouldn't work adequately at 5500W. The main variable would be the water flow rate through the shotgun. During a stripping run I would run at max power, adjust your flow rate and I can't imagine it not working for you.

When stripping there wouldn't be any difference between using a 2" riser vs a 3" riser. My riser is 3", but that is only because I use the same Tri-Clamp spools for my 3" column to hold packing. I strip using a larger boiler at 11000W (two 5500W elements) and the ID of the fitting that connects to my 2" shotgun condenser is 1-1/4". My point is, when stripping the riser diameter isn't important and neither is the size of the fitting that connects to the condenser as long as it isn't so tiny that it could become blocked. Remember that many often build Liebig condensers that are 1" over 3/4" so in that case the fitting is no smaller than 3/4". Does that make sense? You could reduce 3" down to 3/4" or 2" down to 3/4" and it wouldn't make any difference.

I've never used two elements (11000W) in a single keg boiler, but I can't imagine why you couldn't. That would make your stripping runs twice as fast and you could do two stripping runs back to back. That would cost you less than building two stripping rigs to run at the same time. I just don't know if your shotgun condenser can handle 11000W or not.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Deplorable »

Be cautioned that with all grain mashes, you're still somewhat limited on how much power you can throw at it without it puking.
Even on a cleared wash, that fermented dry, and a tablespoon of butter in the boiler, a 10 gallon charge in my 13 gallon milk can will still puke at anything more than 16 amps.
If pukes don't bother you, then go ahead and crank the power.
I prefer not to have to clean the puke out of the shotgun and riser.
I can crank the heat to max after the first gallon or so comes off the spout, but I'm just wasting more cooling water.
11kw in a 15 gallon boiler is completely overkill IMHO.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by StillerBoy »

Deplorable wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 12:23 pm Be cautioned that with all grain mashes, you're still somewhat limited on how much power you can throw at it without it puking.
Even on a cleared wash, that fermented dry, and a tablespoon of butter in the boiler, a 10 gallon charge in my 13 gallon milk can will still puke at anything more than 16 amps.
If pukes don't bother you, then go ahead and crank the power.
I prefer not to have to clean the puke out of the shotgun and riser.
I can crank the heat to max after the first gallon or so comes off the spout, but I'm just wasting more cooling water.
11kw in a 15 gallon boiler is completely overkill IMHO.
+1

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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

Salt Must Flow wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 11:26 am I've never used one of those stainless shotgun condensers before, but I also don't recall anyone saying it wouldn't work adequately at 5500W. The main variable would be the water flow rate through the shotgun. During a stripping run I would run at max power, adjust your flow rate and I can't imagine it not working for you.

When stripping there wouldn't be any difference between using a 2" riser vs a 3" riser. My riser is 3", but that is only because I use the same Tri-Clamp spools for my 3" column to hold packing. I strip using a larger boiler at 11000W (two 5500W elements) and the ID of the fitting that connects to my 2" shotgun condenser is 1-1/4". My point is, when stripping the riser diameter isn't important and neither is the size of the fitting that connects to the condenser as long as it isn't so tiny that it could become blocked. Remember that many often build Liebig condensers that are 1" over 3/4" so in that case the fitting is no smaller than 3/4". Does that make sense? You could reduce 3" down to 3/4" or 2" down to 3/4" and it wouldn't make any difference.

I've never used two elements (11000W) in a single keg boiler, but I can't imagine why you couldn't. That would make your stripping runs twice as fast and you could do two stripping runs back to back. That would cost you less than building two stripping rigs to run at the same time. I just don't know if your shotgun condenser can handle 11000W or not.
I am hoping it will mostly be a matter of flow rate thru the stainless shotgun, copper has much better thermal conductivity though so I wasn't sure to what degree that would play into things in this sort of situation. That's good to hear.

Also good to hear that I can strip at any diameter. What about when doing the spirit run, what should I consider if I am building to get spirit runs done with good quality but also quickly?

I was thinking I'd buy another 5500 watt and two 4500 watt elements and run each keg at 10,000 concurrently. If I ever end up running just one I might swap the elements around to get the extra 1000 watts into the wash. I've already got the keg and the parts to do the second keg, after getting the grinding tools, they seem inexpensive enough to make at least one more.

If my current parts could probably handle 5000 watts then, doubling down on a second kit to up knockdown power is not going to be a problem. I might try to build the second boiler's tower differently to the first though, maybe 3" all the way and make my own condensers somehow...or buy a nice one, not sure.
Deplorable wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 12:23 pm Be cautioned that with all grain mashes, you're still somewhat limited on how much power you can throw at it without it puking.
Even on a cleared wash, that fermented dry, and a tablespoon of butter in the boiler, a 10 gallon charge in my 13 gallon milk can will still puke at anything more than 16 amps.
If pukes don't bother you, then go ahead and crank the power.
I prefer not to have to clean the puke out of the shotgun and riser.
I can crank the heat to max after the first gallon or so comes off the spout, but I'm just wasting more cooling water.
11kw in a 15 gallon boiler is completely overkill IMHO.
I hear you! I am looking to avoid pukes. I am planning to use a power controller to get up to temperature a bit gently. I need to look up the details to make sure I do it well but I think the current plan is to start at full power, get the wash to about 150-160F or when it starts to show significant kinetic motion, then limit power (to what wattage I am uncertain, maybe ~3500watts or less), get some condensate to drip and I'd guess it is also breaking up proteins and other biofilm type stuff from the heat, then edge back up to full power trying to avoid puking while I do so. I could certainly use any advice on avoiding puking with this setup.

Seems like there's some way to catch the puke in line with the tower that I read existed but failed to read about. Seems like it would be possible to run at full power after adding a tee near the boiler with a sanitary tube that runs to unsealed to waste, that lets all the puke flow out to a bucket, then once the puke is done swap on an end plate for the tube? That might save time? I'm probably just making myself look ignorant though! I'm not sure if it would work, or if it would save significant time, or if there is a better way, or if I should just be gentle with the temp in the puke zone?


Is there an easy way to make the 2" fill port into a sight glass, I looked one day but didn't find anything for sale that looked good to me? The tower kit from amazon came with a cylindrical sight tube that goes in line with the tower, I'm concerned that a puke would make it through that faster than I could react to it though. They seem to happen quick once things get moving.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

I was thinking I'd buy another 5500 watt and two 4500 watt elements and run each keg at 10,000 concurrently. If I ever end up running just one I might swap the elements around to get the extra 1000 watts into the wash. I've already got the keg and the parts to do the second keg, after getting the grinding tools, they seem inexpensive enough to make at least one more.
With just a basic pot still, you can strip and do a slow spirit run with the exact same rig. You don't need anything special for spirit runs. Some like to use bubble caps and a dephlegmator, but I don't know that I would jump right into that without doing a good number of runs through a basic pot still first.

I would probably just do one or two stripping runs with a 5500W element, see how well the shotgun works and go from there. I've only ever had a single 5500W element on my keg boiler, never felt the need for anything larger, but I'd be lying if I said I never thought about welding on another ferrule for the option for faster heat-up. I mostly do sugar washes and have never had a single foaming or puke issue some keep talking about even at 11000W. Of course some grain mashes are obviously different. Once again I'd just start with a single 5500W element and go from there. You could always make any desired upgrades/changes later down the road.

Nothing wrong with modifying another keg.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Deplorable »

@Heavy
This morning when I charged the still with wash the still and wash were about 40F. I put 18A to it to bring it bring it to temp. once the sight glass cleared and I started to see streamlets trickle back down the sides I turned on the water to the shotgun. All told I think I was about 45 minutes from stone cold to first drops. I tuned the still to strip at 17A and that kept the foam breaking up in about the middle of the sight glass and the water temp on the discharge of the shotgun was probably around 150F and coming out at about double to 2.5 times the rate as the product and my shotgun (all copper, 20 inches long) had a nice temperature gradient across its surface. I let it run like that for the entire duration of the strip and never touched it again until the output ABV was around 5% and the collection pot was at 30%. Then I shut down, dumped the stillage, and recharged with another 10 gallons of wash. Im about halfway done with the 2nd charge.
It takes me about 6 or 7 hours to strip 20 gallons of wash and collect 5 gallons of 30% low wines and clean the still. About teh same amount of time it takes to do a spirit run on a 6 gallon charge. (5 gallons of 30% low wines and a gallon of fresh wash)

I think if you start off with a single 5500W element on a 15 gallon keg you'll find that's all you need. There is a reason so many on here run that set up. It's all you need for a hobby still. Even a 3" reflux tower on a 15 gallon keg won't use more than that.
Save your money, and put it towards barrels or fermenting equipment.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

In theory there's an instance where I can think two elements could be helpful. People talk about scorching during their stripping run. Well if they had two elements each running at half the power they ran at before then that should stop scorching without reducing total power or lengthening time of the stripping run.

Deplorable is right though, generally one element is all you need.
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by StillerBoy »

I had 2 5500w elements in my stripper at one time.. it didn't last to long, that I removed one.. why.. for saving 6 - 7 min on heat up.. not worth the time..

As to scorching that is not due to the element, but due to not taking the time to clear a wash/mash properly.. never had to reduce power on any of my wash/mash.. why.. cause the time was taken to clear them properly..

This hobby is not about speed.. for those who are new or have forgotten.. it about making a fine quality product.. and that is not done by speeding/rushing the process from start (fermentation) to finish (cuts - let them for 4 - 6 days and see the different)..

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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Deplorable »

StillerBoy wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:44 pm I had 2 5500w elements in my stripper at one time.. it didn't last to long, that I removed one.. why.. for saving 6 - 7 min on heat up.. not worth the time..

As to scorching that is not due to the element, but due to not taking the time to clear a wash/mash properly.. never had to reduce power on any of my wash/mash.. why.. cause the time was taken to clear them properly..

This hobby is not about speed.. for those who are new or have forgotten.. it about making a fine quality product.. and that is not done by speeding/rushing the process from start (fermentation) to finish (cuts - let them for 4 - 6 days and see the different)..

Mars
+1
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That may sound contrary to the old quote " No lazy man ever made whiskey." Making GOOD whiskey requires patience, and a little effort.

Making good whiskey takes time, don't try to rush any part of it, or you'll never make anything better than a commercial offering.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
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Heavy
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

I feel like that last post generated some replies lol. Ok I'll figure out how to put a power controller on one 5500watt element before i get to adding more. Lets cautiously edge in with that as the plan. While you're looking maybe I can ask my next question and get a variety of responses from y'all...

...I'll need to build a controller dealing with at least 5500W, that's a good bit of power. I read about SCR controllers, but I should probably go through it all again. I think I saw Auberin makes some options? I've liked their stuff in the past. Are there any other power controller options I should not miss looking at? (240v)
Last edited by Heavy on Sat Dec 24, 2022 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Heavy
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Heavy »

Some of what I've looked though:
SCR
Variac alone - I think this wastes more power than other options? Not sure though.
Rotary encoder power regulator w/ solid state relay (Auber DSPR1) - I need to figure out if it will drive a big enough SSR
Rotary encoder power regulator designed for distillation with solid state relay (Auber DSPR220 or DSPR400)
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Twisted Brick
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Twisted Brick »

StillerBoy wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:44 pm I had 2 5500w elements in my stripper at one time.. it didn't last to long, that I removed one.. why.. for saving 6 - 7 min on heat up.. not worth the time..
Great tip Mars, real-world experience always tops theoretical.
StillerBoy wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:44 pm
As to scorching that is not due to the element, but due to not taking the time to clear a wash/mash properly.. never had to reduce power on any of my wash/mash.. why.. cause the time was taken to clear them properly..
Ditto. A slow warm up on properly cleared washes breaks any residual proteins and builds congeners, reducing not only a scorch but a puke.
StillerBoy wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:44 pm
This hobby is not about speed.. for those who are new or have forgotten.. it about making a fine quality product.. and that is not done by speeding/rushing the process
True words. Like Deplorable says, taking time now translates to a noticeably elevated product later...
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: No experience distilling, wanting to do first build

Post by Salt Must Flow »

Heavy wrote: Sat Dec 24, 2022 6:50 pm Some of what I've looked though:
SCR
Variac alone - I think this wastes more power than other options? Not sure though.
Rotary encoder power regulator w/ solid state relay (Auber DSPR1) - I need to figure out if it will drive a big enough SSR
Rotary encoder power regulator designed for distillation with solid state relay (Auber DSPR220 or DSPR400)
If you want to keep it simple, one of these basic SSVR (solid state variable relay) controllers are hard to beat. You could even upgrade the enclosure and/or add a digital Volt, Amp, Watt meter.

The Auber DSPR400 with a 40A SSR, an RTD Sensor and panel mount connector is Auber's deluxe controller that does everything and more. There are a few other cheap bells & whistles that can be easily added for convenience. This is by far the best controller I've ever used. So much so that I made a 2nd one.
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