Help With Design
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Re: Help With Design
One quick thought, remember how my crushed Oyster shells were in a silly wire mesh container meaning they didn't get the surface area exposure they needed and my PH crashed, meaning I used several tablespoons of calcium hydroxide. Well could that have spoiled the wash to create the high levels of acetone I wonder?
Re: Help With Design
Well whilst I struggle away collecting acetone, heres a couple of tips. If you do end up buying a stat controlled plug to control your fermenter box temp (if you go that route), you can also use it to light a lamp to tell you if your RC temp is too high and reaching danger zone.
Also, you can add an upturned shotglass to your safety vapour path. Creates an easy safety visual.
Also, you can add an upturned shotglass to your safety vapour path. Creates an easy safety visual.
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Re: Help With Design
I struggle to understand how you could possibly have that much acetone in your wash. The conversion of ethanol to acetone takes a fair bit of catalytic coaxing. I would guess instead that your high fermentation temperature generated a lot of undesirable higher alcohols. Garbage in equals garbage out.
Do a stripping run and try treating with sodium carbonate before running again.
Do a stripping run and try treating with sodium carbonate before running again.
Re: Help With Design
Technically, I am stripping, just very slowly. I am going to see this out now, but once I have collected circa 8L @ 97%, are you suggesting I dilute to 40%, add sodium carbonate or bicarb and run again?
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Re: Help With Design
Yes, but dilute further to separate any amyl alcohol as well and treat with carb/bicarb. 20-30% ABV is ideal.
- squigglefunk
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Re: Help With Design
if you're redistilling the same nasty tasting thing over and over then more like around and around
to me either your still is not working properly, there is some serious misuse of it, or your wash was just not good to begin with.
might be best to start over with a new ferment and focus on making that right first?
Re: Help With Design
Yep, starting over is a serious and most sensible option really, but would be interesting to see what bicarb did though.
Re: Help With Design
Is Bicarb that good that it could rid a wash of heavily smeared acetone full junk?ThomasBrewer wrote: ↑Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:43 amYes, but dilute further to separate any amyl alcohol as well and treat with carb/bicarb. 20-30% ABV is ideal.
Re: Help With Design
I a gonna let her rip and see what it can knock down just for the hell of it. Gate valve max.
EDIT:
Shotgun Valve Full Open - Luke warm for the top 4" ish
RC Valve Full Open - Temp dropped low, didn't get a read as was on with other stuff
Power ~5250w
Gate Valve Wide Open
1.5L collected in 6mins 15secs = 14.361 l/ph @ Temp corrected 94.2%ABV (collected @50.8f and 92.2%ABV)
Going to research how to find reflux ratio another day, but now I am fed up and off to pub with dogs and SWMBO for some great real ale.
Good night everybody and have a drink on me:)
EDIT:
Shotgun Valve Full Open - Luke warm for the top 4" ish
RC Valve Full Open - Temp dropped low, didn't get a read as was on with other stuff
Power ~5250w
Gate Valve Wide Open
1.5L collected in 6mins 15secs = 14.361 l/ph @ Temp corrected 94.2%ABV (collected @50.8f and 92.2%ABV)
Going to research how to find reflux ratio another day, but now I am fed up and off to pub with dogs and SWMBO for some great real ale.
Good night everybody and have a drink on me:)
Re: Help With Design
New tac-tics deployed, I stripped the whole kit and washed column, boiler and SPP. Not Take-off tee, to spout. I was suspicious the thermal mass of SPP might have been carrying constant temperatures too high in the column and therefore not enough space for fine seperation before take-off. Could be totally wrong as I am new.
Column now has 75mm Copper mesh - 16" SPP - Copper mesh to the tee.
I also did as advised and threw the wash down the drain, just kept ~7,25L of stripped 96.8% acetone and topped up with water.
Also, I added 16 table-spoons of Bicarb of soda gave it a stir whilst wash was heating and just before filler cap was sealed at 160f. I know most folk say wait, but lets see.
Had a 35 minute equalisation and 1st 500ml jar starting collection ABV was 95.1 temp corrected, completed in 52 mins.
Tell you what, it is so much easier once you get to know your valves and drips, I am hardly doing a quarter of the finite fiddling I was upto on first 3 runs.
At the beginning of every jar I take take off temp and ABV, speed done by eye now, at least for this stage.
2nd jar just started collecting @96.3%ABV, not sure why the rise, I changed nothing.
EDIT: Jar 2 completed 48 mins @96.3ABV just as it started - Still acetone. Max collection is 2.25L before I scrap the wash, it is not time wasted as I have had some great learning in the practical side of things. Bit annoyed if it is all acetone, but if it is, at least after this trial I can be pretty sure the wash was crap. In which case, I must do better.
One observation I have noticed is the vapour temp is sloghtly lower so far today @ 172.6f. Whereas with column full of SPP it was 173.3 I was hopeful that this meant I was perhaps collecting the lighter earlier nasties. Now it is time to sit back and cross my fingers.
If this goes all out acetone again, it bocomes fire starter and new ferment starts asap.
Column now has 75mm Copper mesh - 16" SPP - Copper mesh to the tee.
I also did as advised and threw the wash down the drain, just kept ~7,25L of stripped 96.8% acetone and topped up with water.
Also, I added 16 table-spoons of Bicarb of soda gave it a stir whilst wash was heating and just before filler cap was sealed at 160f. I know most folk say wait, but lets see.
Had a 35 minute equalisation and 1st 500ml jar starting collection ABV was 95.1 temp corrected, completed in 52 mins.
Tell you what, it is so much easier once you get to know your valves and drips, I am hardly doing a quarter of the finite fiddling I was upto on first 3 runs.
At the beginning of every jar I take take off temp and ABV, speed done by eye now, at least for this stage.
2nd jar just started collecting @96.3%ABV, not sure why the rise, I changed nothing.
EDIT: Jar 2 completed 48 mins @96.3ABV just as it started - Still acetone. Max collection is 2.25L before I scrap the wash, it is not time wasted as I have had some great learning in the practical side of things. Bit annoyed if it is all acetone, but if it is, at least after this trial I can be pretty sure the wash was crap. In which case, I must do better.
One observation I have noticed is the vapour temp is sloghtly lower so far today @ 172.6f. Whereas with column full of SPP it was 173.3 I was hopeful that this meant I was perhaps collecting the lighter earlier nasties. Now it is time to sit back and cross my fingers.
If this goes all out acetone again, it bocomes fire starter and new ferment starts asap.
Last edited by Hebden on Thu Dec 08, 2022 10:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Help With Design
If you keep fiddling around with your column you will never learn how to run it.Hebden wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 10:05 am New tac-tics deployed, I stripped the whole kit and washed column, boiler and SPP. Not Take-off tee, to spout. I was suspicious the thermal mass of SPP might have been carrying constant temperatures too high in the column and therefore not enough space for fine seperation before take-off. Could be totally wrong as I am new.
Column now has 75mm Copper mesh - 16" SPP - Copper mesh to the tee.
I also did as advised and threw the wash down the drain, just kept ~7,25L of stripped 96.8% acetone and topped up with water.
Also, I added 16 table-spoons of Bicarb of soda gave it a stir whilst wash was heating and just before filler cap was sealed at 160f. I know most folk say wait, but lets see.
Had a 35 minute equalisation and 1st 500ml jar starting collection ABV was 95.1 temp corrected, completed in 52 mins.
Tell you what, it is so much easier once you get to know your valves and drips, I am hardly doing a quarter of the finite fiddling I was upto on first 3 runs.
At the beginning of every jar I take take off temp and ABV, speed done by eye now, at least for this stage.
2nd jar just started collecting @96.3%ABV, not sure why the rise, I changed nothing.
One observation I have noticed is the vapour temp is sloghtly lower so far today @ 172.6f. Whereas with column full of SPP it was 173.3 I was hopeful that this meant I was perhaps collecting the lighter earlier nasties. Now it is time to sit back and cross my fingers.
If this goes all out acetone again, it bocomes fire starter and new ferment starts asap.
You will end up selling your spp and packing with some sort of scrubbies.
How do you think I managed to buy my spp at a discount?
Did you have any spp left over after you packed it with the mesh top and bottom?
If you had left overs, install cross wire supports at the bottom of the column.
Use only an inch or so of copper mesh at bottom and frankly, none at top.
You can put more loose mesh in the top to fill if need be.(or feel you must )
Since you really don't know where you are at the moment you're better of just dumping everything and making a single batch and test drive that.
Re: Help With Design
Did you mean if I "don't" keep fiddling around?
Actually I get ya, you mean to say that I did not have too much SPP in and I must learn how to work it didn't you?
Quick thought though, why fill with SPP when I am hitting the ABV with so little?
Yep just edited the post above, it is defo scrap wash after tonight. Still I have so much more confidence on how to run the still, it has not been a total waste.
Re: Help With Design
I mean, I thought you set your column up the best you could. Any fiddling in the direction you are going is not helpful.Hebden wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 10:46 amDid you mean if I "don't" keep fiddling around?
Actually I get ya, you mean to say that I did not have too much SPP in and I must learn how to work it didn't you?
Quick thought though, why fill with SPP when I am hitting the ABV with so little?
Yep just edited the post above, it is defo scrap wash after tonight. Still I have so much more confidence on how to run the still, it has not been a total waste.
Hitting azeo has nothing to do with it. You probably noticed that your hitting azeo did not warranty good tasting product. "They" say 15 plates to hit azeo, but more plates up to 40 will improve the cleanliness of you product.
I have asked what more than 40 plates does and the response has always been "not much".
However, when asked, no one has defined "not much".
According to the mfg of your spp you should have at least 50 plates yesterday. You should be getting fantastic clean, clear product.
Re: Help With Design
Yep it is certainly clean and crisp looking.
Yes I set my column up best I could yesterday, but me being a novice doesn't mean it is set up well, just best I could. Pretty sure my wash is shite, not sure if it was the emergency PH lifting sodium hydroxide or if it was the day the under floor heating took it to ~105f, alternatively it could have been the several day wair for SPP or it could have been the acidic conditions. God knows where I went wrong, but it was in the wash.
Yes I set my column up best I could yesterday, but me being a novice doesn't mean it is set up well, just best I could. Pretty sure my wash is shite, not sure if it was the emergency PH lifting sodium hydroxide or if it was the day the under floor heating took it to ~105f, alternatively it could have been the several day wair for SPP or it could have been the acidic conditions. God knows where I went wrong, but it was in the wash.
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Re: Help With Design
It is my understanding that Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Bicarbonate should only be used with low wines during a spirit run. This is the first topic I found in a quick search. It can ruin the product if too much is used, can create blue distillate, blue crystals on/in copper condensers and blue distillate is supposedly dangerous to drink.
Everything I've read says that SPP should be used on top of any other packing like copper mesh or stainless scrubbers. Since SPP is supposed to be much more efficient in comparison to those other packings, it's used on top because that's where the most of the most important interaction is occurring.
How did you pack the column with the SPP? Did you just pour it in until the column was full? Did you smack the side of the column to cause the packing to settle/compact? Some people lightly bounce their column on the floor to compact the packing.
When I make a sugar wash, I bring 8 gallons of water to boil, put some water in my fermenter, dump in all of the hot water, add & mix my sugar, top the fermenter off to 50 gal and add the rest of the ingredients/nutrients. I'd bet that this ratio is scalable. This makes the sugar wash's starting temp 84F/28.8C. I roll it into my hot box and set it to 80F for the first couple days because fermentation generates heat. After a couple days I'll turn set the temp to 84F-85F. This keeps fermentation temp stable and the yeast happy. Also keeping the PH stable is important.
Hopefully a new wash works better next time.
Everything I've read says that SPP should be used on top of any other packing like copper mesh or stainless scrubbers. Since SPP is supposed to be much more efficient in comparison to those other packings, it's used on top because that's where the most of the most important interaction is occurring.
How did you pack the column with the SPP? Did you just pour it in until the column was full? Did you smack the side of the column to cause the packing to settle/compact? Some people lightly bounce their column on the floor to compact the packing.
When I make a sugar wash, I bring 8 gallons of water to boil, put some water in my fermenter, dump in all of the hot water, add & mix my sugar, top the fermenter off to 50 gal and add the rest of the ingredients/nutrients. I'd bet that this ratio is scalable. This makes the sugar wash's starting temp 84F/28.8C. I roll it into my hot box and set it to 80F for the first couple days because fermentation generates heat. After a couple days I'll turn set the temp to 84F-85F. This keeps fermentation temp stable and the yeast happy. Also keeping the PH stable is important.
Hopefully a new wash works better next time.
Re: Help With Design
bunny wrote: ↑Mon Dec 05, 2022 9:21 am Did you have to adjust your shell grit?
Sort of - my oyster shells were in a silly metal mesh container and I don't think it let enough surface area be seen, so I ended up adding 7 tablespoons of Calcium Hydroxide as en emergeny PH lifter.
Did you determine how much was eaten?
No because of above comment
I think my "crash test" turned out fine.
So for my next mash, hopefully tomorrow if yeast turns up, I think I'll try your method.
I went back and weighed out my typical rounded Tbs of CaCO3.
75-85g of CaCO3 powder mixed with 16lb sugar into distilled water brought the pH to 4.1 overnight.
The same amount of CaCO3 in my tap water with 16lb comes down to 4.4-4.7.
If you have fairly soft water, 250g of CaCO3 with your 25kgs sugar should keep you in the 4's.
My water supply is 18.2 mg/l calcium (150L * 18.2mg = 2.73g Calcium) - That is soft - I guess this means I need to add more Calcium Carbonate than if I had hard water?
Would you know your water Calcium levels Bunny, I could then calculate the total calcium added to the wash with a known formula? This would be very appreciated,
If your water is harder, maybe a little less is needed?
Don't forget: I run hot 92-98*f and fast: 48hrs
Yes, I remember you stating your methods were crude and fast, I must go back and look. I think I may go traditional here and aim for 85f. Whilst your methods maybe crude, they obviously work for you.
I also did not test cooler or slower runs, so your on your own there.
I also have an affinity for less complicated things, like, Liebigs, where the water is not going anywhere near the vapor.
And simple coils, for the same reason as the Liebigs.
Re: Help With Design
Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:07 pm It is my understanding that Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Bicarbonate should only be used with low wines during a spirit run. This is the first topic I found in a quick search. It can ruin the product if too much is used, can create blue distillate, blue crystals on/in copper condensers and blue distillate is supposedly dangerous to drink.
Thanks Salt, yep I have read that, in fact it is a sticky in Novice Distillersviewtopic.php?p=6735043#p6735043
Everything I've read says that SPP should be used on top of any other packing like copper mesh or stainless scrubbers. Since SPP is supposed to be much more efficient in comparison to those other packings, it's used on top because that's where the most of the most important interaction is occurring.
I better re-read, yes I had it on top of Copper scrubbies but I thought I read to top it with a scrubbers also.
How did you pack the column with the SPP? Did you just pour it in until the column was full? Did you smack the side of the column to cause the packing to settle/compact? Some people lightly bounce their column on the floor to compact the packing.
Yes I tamped my SPP down as I filled, tapped and shook the column, not sure it really did much though, also I used the rolling pin but felt that was going to damage my SPP with even minor pressure.
When I make a sugar wash, I bring 8 gallons of water to boil, put some water in my fermenter, dump in all of the hot water, add & mix my sugar, top the fermenter off to 50 gal and add the rest of the ingredients/nutrients. I'd bet that this ratio is scalable. This makes the sugar wash's starting temp 84F/28.8C. I roll it into my hot box and set it to 80F for the first couple days because fermentation generates heat. After a couple days I'll turn set the temp to 84F-85F. This keeps fermentation temp stable and the yeast happy. Also keeping the PH stable is important.
I did similar last time, starting temp was a bit high by a few degrees, but being high, I know I can get it lower next time, one 50L of boiling water was enough.
My notes say to keep starting PH between 5.2 & 5.6 before I pitch, is this correct
Hopefully a new wash works better next time.
It can't go much worse, although next time I will defo nail the slow and steady start and at least non of this is my first time anymore.
Thank you for your kind guidance:)
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Re: Help With Design
What I meant about SPP on top is, for instance if someone had only enough SPP for half of their column, the SPP should go on top. It can't hurt to put just a little mesh or scrubber over top, but I don't know exactly what purpose that would serve.Hebden wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 4:28 pmSalt Must Flow wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:07 pm It is my understanding that Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Bicarbonate should only be used with low wines during a spirit run. This is the first topic I found in a quick search. It can ruin the product if too much is used, can create blue distillate, blue crystals on/in copper condensers and blue distillate is supposedly dangerous to drink.
Thanks Salt, yep I have read that, in fact it is a sticky in Novice Distillersviewtopic.php?p=6735043#p6735043
Everything I've read says that SPP should be used on top of any other packing like copper mesh or stainless scrubbers. Since SPP is supposed to be much more efficient in comparison to those other packings, it's used on top because that's where the most of the most important interaction is occurring.
I better re-read, yes I had it on top of Copper scrubbies but I thought I read to top it with a scrubbers also.
How did you pack the column with the SPP? Did you just pour it in until the column was full? Did you smack the side of the column to cause the packing to settle/compact? Some people lightly bounce their column on the floor to compact the packing.
Yes I tamped my SPP down as I filled, tapped and shook the column, not sure it really did much though, also I used the rolling pin but felt that was going to damage my SPP with even minor pressure.
When I make a sugar wash, I bring 8 gallons of water to boil, put some water in my fermenter, dump in all of the hot water, add & mix my sugar, top the fermenter off to 50 gal and add the rest of the ingredients/nutrients. I'd bet that this ratio is scalable. This makes the sugar wash's starting temp 84F/28.8C. I roll it into my hot box and set it to 80F for the first couple days because fermentation generates heat. After a couple days I'll turn set the temp to 84F-85F. This keeps fermentation temp stable and the yeast happy. Also keeping the PH stable is important.
I did similar last time, starting temp was a bit high by a few degrees, but being high, I know I can get it lower next time, one 50L of boiling water was enough.
My notes say to keep starting PH between 5.2 & 5.6 before I pitch, is this correct
Hopefully a new wash works better next time.
It can't go much worse, although next time I will defo nail the slow and steady start and at least non of this is my first time anymore.
Thank you for your kind guidance:)
Yes, pH of 5.2 - 5.6 is what my notes say too.
A couple of days ago I tried doing a similar method as bunny described with an all Feints run. I heated the boiler until vapor just started to rise up the column. I immediately turned the power down to 20% 1100W. I left the gate valve cracked open just a bit 2.5 turns. I monitored where the vapor was as it was rising up the column and turned on the water to the reflux condenser. I did not stabilize the column at all. I just let the first vapors exit while it ran with reflux. I continued taking off very slow all afternoon at 2.5 turns .56 lph. I ended up stopping and finished yesterday. I haven't finished making cuts, but we'll see how it turns out. I know an all feints run isn't the same as a normal run with low wines, but I figured I'd give that method a try and to see for myself.
By the way, you were right. My temp probe reads 2F low because it's in a 1mm thick copper thermowell. I should have made that connection considering my probe reads boiling water at 210F instead of 212F
Re: Help With Design
Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 5:07 pm What I meant about SPP on top is, for instance if someone had only enough SPP for half of their column, the SPP should go on top. It can't hurt to put just a little mesh or scrubber over top, but I don't know exactly what purpose that would serve.
Ahh I get ya now. So my 4th run was upside down, that also blows my theory of SPP being too close to take off level away.
Yes, pH of 5.2 - 5.6 is what my notes say too.
A couple of days ago I tried doing a similar method as bunny described with an all Feints run. I heated the boiler until vapor just started to rise up the column. I immediately turned the power down to 20% 1100W. I left the gate valve cracked open just a bit 2.5 turns. I monitored where the vapor was as it was rising up the column and turned on the water to the reflux condenser. I did not stabilize the column at all. I just let the first vapors exit while it ran with reflux. I continued taking off very slow all afternoon at 2.5 turns .56 lph. I ended up stopping and finished yesterday. I haven't finished making cuts, but we'll see how it turns out. I know an all feints run isn't the same as a normal run with low wines, but I figured I'd give that method a try and to see for myself.
So how did it go? I can only image that this is the correct way to take off, it just makes sense to my mind.
The thing I don't get with feints runs is that it's the crud you didn't think drinkable in the first place, so how much good stuff comes out next time it's run? I suppose compared to the whole fermentation process to get them, your saving that major process, it's almost a free ride.
Re: Help With Design
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Re: Help With Design
How far away from the vapor takeoff is it to the top of the SPP? Before I had a sight glass, I just filled my column to the top with packing then installed the VM tee. That left me with a gap 2-1/2" below the takeoff port. With a sight glass, the gap is approx 9-1/2".Hebden wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 12:37 pmSalt Must Flow wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 5:07 pm What I meant about SPP on top is, for instance if someone had only enough SPP for half of their column, the SPP should go on top. It can't hurt to put just a little mesh or scrubber over top, but I don't know exactly what purpose that would serve.
Ahh I get ya now. So my 4th run was upside down, that also blows my theory of SPP being too close to take off level away.
Yes, pH of 5.2 - 5.6 is what my notes say too.
A couple of days ago I tried doing a similar method as bunny described with an all Feints run. I heated the boiler until vapor just started to rise up the column. I immediately turned the power down to 20% 1100W. I left the gate valve cracked open just a bit 2.5 turns. I monitored where the vapor was as it was rising up the column and turned on the water to the reflux condenser. I did not stabilize the column at all. I just let the first vapors exit while it ran with reflux. I continued taking off very slow all afternoon at 2.5 turns .56 lph. I ended up stopping and finished yesterday. I haven't finished making cuts, but we'll see how it turns out. I know an all feints run isn't the same as a normal run with low wines, but I figured I'd give that method a try and to see for myself.
So how did it go? I can only image that this is the correct way to take off, it just makes sense to my mind.
The thing I don't get with feints runs is that it's the crud you didn't think drinkable in the first place, so how much good stuff comes out next time it's run? I suppose compared to the whole fermentation process to get them, your saving that major process, it's almost a free ride.
Heads & tails are primarily ethanol as well as relatively small amounts of other substances.that come off with the ethanol. Heads are higher in concentration from the start and become less concentrated as you go. When you dilute the feints and run it, once again you get a decent size hearts cut. Refluxing compresses the heads as well as the tails. After this run you throw out the garbage because at this point you've squeezed out about as much as you can. I believe the heads cut is wider during a Feints run which makes sense.
The run went fine, but I just don't know what I think about taking off at such low power. I might have to do two consecutive normal runs each way that way I could compare them and if there's a noticeable difference.
Re: Help With Design
Yes I certainly understand that, with a large batch to run it could take days. But who says that you must go at such low power, could you not leave the gate valve open and pull off fores n heads a little quicker, they still going to rise up the column first.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 2:09 pm The run went fine, but I just don't know what I think about taking off at such low power. I might have to do two consecutive normal runs each way that way I could compare them and if there's a noticeable difference.
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Re: Help With Design
That's how most people operate reflux columns if I'm not mistaken. Very slow at first, a little faster then even faster during hearts.Hebden wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 2:22 pmYes I certainly understand that, with a large batch to run it could take days. But who says that you must go at such low power, could you not leave the gate valve open and pull off fores n heads a little quicker, they still going to rise up the column first.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 2:09 pm The run went fine, but I just don't know what I think about taking off at such low power. I might have to do two consecutive normal runs each way that way I could compare them and if there's a noticeable difference.
Re: Help With Design
Yeah I get that, I just meant is it really necessary for you to test the non full reflux idea at 1100w. Can't you just let it flow at your usual 2750 or maybe slightly below. Probably not or you would have.
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Re: Help With Design
That's worth trying, but with more power, the faster the vapor rises so I imagine what comes out first might not be as high of concentration as it would be if it were done at lower power. The question may be, at exactly what power provides the best results?
I really hope your next spirit run works out like it should. Your outcome should be entirely different. I couldn't comprehend having the smell & taste of Acetone throughout a run. It just makes no sense to me how that can happen. Acetone is highly concentrated in the very first jar. Less the the next, but gone very soon. It made me wonder if you were misinterpreting the smell/taste or something. Hopefully it was just a bad fermentation that caused it.
Re: Help With Design
Yeah I mjust say I am no expert on the deffering smells in a wash, but I did asked my better half and she said nail varnish. Anyhow, I have gone with a new Bunnys recipe this time, it may be another fail by me coming up or it may work a treat. I set it off 12 hours ago and not lifted the lid this time. I think it is fermenting, it is smelling nice in there and temp is steady away.
Also been looking into this thread about sugars, they recommend a bit of Vit C to dechlorinate:
viewtopic.php?p=6728373#p6728373
There's another chap talking about sugar inversion not being any better, something I believe you have considered being the case. Although you saw minor improvements.
Also been looking into this thread about sugars, they recommend a bit of Vit C to dechlorinate:
viewtopic.php?p=6728373#p6728373
There's another chap talking about sugar inversion not being any better, something I believe you have considered being the case. Although you saw minor improvements.
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Re: Help With Design
Oh boy you're using chlorinated city water? I couldn't keep aquariums healthy using city water. I couldn't imagine keeping anything else healthy with it either.
Yeah I used to invert my sugar, but I not only simmered it, but I used Citric Acid to invert it.
Yeah I used to invert my sugar, but I not only simmered it, but I used Citric Acid to invert it.
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- Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum
Re: Help With Design
Given the chance, here's how I'd run your packed column for the first time
Do a potstill run with the boiler and PC only.
Play with it and figure out how much power it takes to boil over and puke.
I hear folks always talking about how much power their column can handle, but nobody mentions how much vapor their boiler can produce without drama.
Find out how many liters per hour the still can produce.
You'll need this # to figure out future reflux ratios.
During reflux runs, I'd stay below 80% of the power that the pot would puke at.
I'd run as much power as needed to keep a boiling fuzz on top the packing.
Anytime I adjusted the takeoff rate, I'd adjust the power accordingly.
When the takeoff is increased, the power will be increased also.
And I don't mean chasing around with the adjustments after you get the feel.
I mean only making an adjust or two during the entire run.
Re: Help With Design
Well my 2nd wash looks to have quietened down, ABV is ~8.385% so a little better than last time. Question is, should I be letting this sugar wash clear?
Yes I have been reading up, but there seems to be both opinions exist, yep if it was a mash it seems more likely you need to let it clear, but a sugar wash, is it necessary, I am not sure this thread is always talking about creating neutral you see:
viewtopic.php?p=6989579#p6989579
It says:
To make it clear, when you distill, your wine, sugar wash, beer or whatever have you should be absolutely crystal clear, or as they say on wine making forums, "You should be able to read newsprint through it". There are several things you can put in the wine to make it crystal clear, including but not limited to a solution of bentonite clay, egg whites, fine activated carbon (only suitable for sugar washes) and kinds of filtering sand. Whatever route you take, the final result must be the same and is essential.
Yes I have been reading up, but there seems to be both opinions exist, yep if it was a mash it seems more likely you need to let it clear, but a sugar wash, is it necessary, I am not sure this thread is always talking about creating neutral you see:
viewtopic.php?p=6989579#p6989579
It says:
To make it clear, when you distill, your wine, sugar wash, beer or whatever have you should be absolutely crystal clear, or as they say on wine making forums, "You should be able to read newsprint through it". There are several things you can put in the wine to make it crystal clear, including but not limited to a solution of bentonite clay, egg whites, fine activated carbon (only suitable for sugar washes) and kinds of filtering sand. Whatever route you take, the final result must be the same and is essential.