Union joint leak

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Tōtōchtin
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Tōtōchtin »

OtisT wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 11:29 am
elbono wrote: Thu Sep 07, 2023 5:08 pm Ok, how do you find a leak?

I've had mixed success with any method unless it makes a drip, that's pretty easy. I smell alcohol anytime the still is running so that's not an alternative. The best results I got with a mirror was when it was cool but not cold enough to fog up from ambient humidity kinda touchy.

Got to find it to fix it.
Add some dish soap to a small glass of water. Use a brush to wet the joint area with the soapy water and look/listen for bubbles.
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Tōtōchtin
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Tōtōchtin »

I used to convert buses in a past life and I used dish soap(zero chorine) to check for leaks if my manometer showed one after assembly. If you can hear bubbles popping I would run..
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Chauncey »

Saltbush Bill wrote: Thu Sep 07, 2023 4:45 pm Iv'e never found a leak with a mirror yet......maybe it's something that only works well for you cold climate fellas.
Yea I can't get it to work here mirrors usually fog up on me no matter what
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by rbsc »

I put it together without Teflon and submerged it, it’s still leaking. Anyone have a one inch tri clamp they recommend?
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NZChris
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by NZChris »

I've got some valve grinding paste. Brand isn't important.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Steve Broady »

rbsc wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 2:59 pm I put it together without Teflon and submerged it, it’s still leaking. Anyone have a one inch tri clamp they recommend?
Don’t bother with 1”. If it’s 1” pipe, get a 1.25” tri-clamp ferrule with the same OD as 1.5”. It slide right over. Use liquid flux and plenty of heat, and it should solder nicely.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by rbsc »

NZChris wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 4:04 pm I've got some valve grinding paste. Brand isn't important.
Is that what someone was referring to above about finding which faces weren’t lining up, then putting some kind of paste on it? This could save me from having to replace it?

Edit: if I use this I assume I can’t break it all down after every use?
Last edited by rbsc on Fri Sep 08, 2023 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Union joint leak

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Steve Broady wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 4:45 pm
rbsc wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 2:59 pm I put it together without Teflon and submerged it, it’s still leaking. Anyone have a one inch tri clamp they recommend?
Don’t bother with 1”. If it’s 1” pipe, get a 1.25” tri-clamp ferrule with the same OD as 1.5”. It slide right over. Use liquid flux and plenty of heat, and it should solder nicely.
Thank you. I noticed not much comes up when I search for one inch.
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Re: Union joint leak

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It's not glue. It's an abrasive paste that can be used to grind two surfaces so that they match better. Used for car valves, look it up. It's easy to use, just put it on the joint and rotate one half for a while, wipe it off and check it visually. When you think both faces are clean and shiny, you're probably done.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by shadylane »

Steve Broady wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 4:45 pm
Don’t bother with 1”. If it’s 1” pipe, get a 1.25” tri-clamp ferrule with the same OD as 1.5”. It slide right over. Use liquid flux and plenty of heat, and it should solder nicely.
I'm confused as normal. :lol:

I can't find any 1.25" tri-clamp fittings.
1/2" and 3/4" are the same, and 1" and 1.5" are the same.
But there's not any 1.25" fittings.

https://www.glaciertanks.com/sizing.html
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by shadylane »

NZChris wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 7:39 pm It's not glue. It's an abrasive paste that can be used to grind two surfaces so that they match better. Used for car valves, look it up. It's easy to use, just put it on the joint and rotate one half for a while, wipe it off and check it visually. When you think both faces are clean and shiny, you're probably done.
That's how I do it after soldering on a union. :thumbup:
It doesn't take very long to get a tight seal, copper is softer than hardened valves and valve seats.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Steve Broady »

shadylane wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 7:54 pm
Steve Broady wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 4:45 pm
Don’t bother with 1”. If it’s 1” pipe, get a 1.25” tri-clamp ferrule with the same OD as 1.5”. It slide right over. Use liquid flux and plenty of heat, and it should solder nicely.
I'm confused as normal. :lol:

I can't find any 1.25" tri-clamp fittings.
1/2" and 3/4" are the same, and 1" and 1.5" are the same.
But there's not any 1.25" fittings.

https://www.glaciertanks.com/sizing.html
316 Stainless Steel Diameter 32MM 1.25" Sanitary Weld Pipe with 50.5MM Ferrule Flange fits 1.5" Tri Clamp https://a.co/d/aOK9lVV

I have used these successfully.

(Edit to add pictures)
IMG_1096.jpeg
IMG_1095.jpeg
That’s the 1.25” on 1” copper pipe. I’ve also used the 1” on 3/4” pipe:
IMG_1643.jpeg
Having them all fit the same 1.5” tri-clamp has been handy.
Last edited by Steve Broady on Fri Sep 08, 2023 11:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by googe »

Epic thread about a union :lolno: have you got a pic of your still, might help everyone help to rebuild it. Theres some smart people here that will see what you don't.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by rbsc »

NZChris wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 7:39 pm It's not glue. It's an abrasive paste that can be used to grind two surfaces so that they match better. Used for car valves, look it up. It's easy to use, just put it on the joint and rotate one half for a while, wipe it off and check it visually. When you think both faces are clean and shiny, you're probably done.
Oh, wow, I’ll definitely try that before I take this apart, then. No concerns about it getting in the vapor path?
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by NZChris »

Not if you clean it.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by acfixer69 »

rbsc wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 11:59 am
NZChris wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2023 7:39 pm It's not glue. It's an abrasive paste that can be used to grind two surfaces so that they match better. Used for car valves, look it up. It's easy to use, just put it on the joint and rotate one half for a while, wipe it off and check it visually. When you think both faces are clean and shiny, you're probably done.
Oh, wow, I’ll definitely try that before I take this apart, then. No concerns about it getting in the vapor path?
It's called lapping compound, and needs to be cleaned off completely before assembly. Then the normal 2 step cleaning as if was flux.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by shadylane »

acfixer69 wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 12:15 pm
It's called lapping compound, and needs to be cleaned off completely before assembly. Then the normal 2 step cleaning as if was flux.
Plan B for the lazy and cheap folks.

Use toothpaste and fine sand for the lapping compound.
Then Ya only need to wipe it off with a wet towel. :ewink:
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by acfixer69 »

shadylane wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 3:10 pm
acfixer69 wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 12:15 pm
It's called lapping compound, and needs to be cleaned off completely before assembly. Then the normal 2 step cleaning as if was flux.
Plan B for the lazy and cheap folks.

Use toothpaste and fine sand for the lapping compound.
Then Ya only need to wipe it off with a wet towel. :ewink:
Fine sand is not a finishing compound so Fine to me may not be the same to you.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by acfixer69 »

Good unions are not ment to be broken down and refitted over and over. Much like a breaker is not ment to be a on /off switch it will do the job but will break down at some point. I'd buy the ferrules and be done with it.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by shadylane »

Ya got a point, the term "fine sand" isn't very measurable.

That aside, I've used sand and toothpaste to lap the sealing surfaces of copper unions.
It's "food grade" and works without the need for cleaning runs.

As to the debate about unions vs tri-clamp fitting.
That's not what the OP is asking about. He needs it fix a union that has a small leak.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by acfixer69 »

When I find a problem I like to fix it and be done as their will be more to come. Quick repair is for emergency shit.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by NZChris »

Grinding a ding or warp out of it should be a permanent fix. It would only take me a few minutes because I already have the paste.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by Steve Broady »

shadylane wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 4:02 pm I've used sand and toothpaste to lap the sealing surfaces of copper unions.
It's "food grade" and works without the need for cleaning runs.
If I remember right I used something thing like Ajax or Comet. Whatever mildly abrasive cleaner I had handy, and it worked a treat. I didn’t need to remove much material, and copper is soft.
shadylane wrote: Sat Sep 09, 2023 4:02 pm As to the debate about unions vs tri-clamp fitting.
That's not what the OP is asking about. He needs it fix a union that has a small leak.
True, and he’s been given plenty of helpful ideas on how to deal with the leak. But to be fair, tri-clamps are definitely one way to solve the problem! One of the things I love about this forum and the wealth of knowledge and experience here is that when I ask a question, I not only get an answer (or several) to the question I asked, I also get a whole range of related information that may or may not guide me to a better solution in the end. It’s happened several times I my short tenure here, and I welcome it.
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Re: Union joint leak

Post by rbsc »

Very much appreciate all the input, everyone. Have some paste on the way. Next weekend is for mashing anyway, so I’ll give the paste a try and see how the joint does with the vinegar and steam cleaning runs. If it still leaks I’ll just take it apart and try to find the tri clamps. I ruined the big elbow piece on my first attempt because I overheated it while I was trying to take it apart; so I’m going to try anything I can before going that route. Again, really appreciate all the help.
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