Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

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WildnWhiskey
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Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

Hello hello!

So I have read and designed and then read some more. Now I am finally to the stage where I signed up for an account so that I could post and get advice on my design. I am building a set of pot stills ,for my friend and I, out of 50L kegs that just happened to “fall into one of our laps” (liquidation sales are nifty things). I have designed basically two potential versions of a basic 2” pot still + Liebig configuration but I worry that my bad habit of overbuilding has taken ahold. (Also not without a little bit of still envy from seeing y’all’s beautiful stills). I have priced out everything and it all seems reasonable to me but my friend is wincing a bit at the price. One version is the cheaper version and is a basic modular pot still while the other “fancy” version makes it easily upgradable into a reflux still and also has extra parts. I built everything with the idea of modularity and also the idea that parts can be substituted or upgraded.

Format is: material name size (amount per still): total cost.

Build costs
•Cheap ~$343 per unit
ss 50L Kegs(1): $20
ss Tri clamp ferrules1.5”(1): $4
ss Tri clamps 1.5”(3): $18.
ss Heating elements(1): $40.
ss Drain assembly(1): $35
ss Tri clamp ferrules 2”(5): $20
ss Tri clamps 2”(3): $21
c Still column 2”(4’): $44
c Column bend 90 2” (1): $11
c Reducer 2”x1”(1): $8.
c Column bend 90 1”(1): $3
ss Tri clamp ferrule 1”(4): $12
c Liebig cond. 3/4”x60” vt: $17
c Liebig cond. 1”x48” wt(1): $20
c Liebig cond. 3/4x1x1/4 ts (2): $13
Ptfe gasket 1.5” (3): $6.
Ptfe gasket 2” (3): $6.
Solder (wire,solder,gas): $15.
Caster wheels (3): $30

This still would be a 10-13 gal pot still and nothing but a pot still. Dimensionally at its max it would be 6’x6’HxW though that width would only be in the direction of the condenser. With a theoretical hearts yield of 7L of ~45-55% abv out of a total run yield of 15L (heads, hearts, tails)

Currently this is specced out for a 5500w element with a controller whose price and parts are seen below. This should allow for run times of 2-4 hours (pot) and would be transferable to bigger set ups.

Controller: $157per unit.
Box(1):$30
Scr(1): $20.
Screen(1): $20.
Fans(1): $20.
Wire(4ft in 5ft out): $35.
Wiring Connectors: $5.
Outlets/plugs(2-3): $27.
Cheap still design
Cheap still design
Both still designs
Both still designs
•fancy ~$545 per unit.
ss 50L Kegs(1): $20.
ss Tri clamp ferrules 1.5”(1): $4.
ss Tri clamp clamp 1.5”(1): $6.
ss Heating elements(1): $40.
ss Drain assembly(1): $35.
3/4”: 90, 10” nip, ball valve
ss Tri clamp fill port 4”(1): $8.
ss Tri clamp clamp 4”(1): $12.
ss Tri clamp cap 4”(1): $10.
ss Tri clamp ferrule column 3”(1): $6.
ss Tri clamp clamp 3”(1): $9.
ss Tri clamp 3”x2”(1): $25.
Tri clamp ferrules 2”(10): $40.
ss Tri clamp ferrules 1”(10): $30.
ss Tri clamp clamps 2”(6): $42.
ss Tri clamp clamps 1.5”(5):$30.
c Still column. 2” (4’): $44.
c Still column T 2” (1): $17.
c Column bend 2”90 (1): $11.
c column bend 2” 45 (1): $9.
c Reducer 2”x1” (1): $8.
c Liebig condenser vt (5’) :$16.
c Liebig condenser wt (4’):$20.
c Liebig condenser T’s (2): $13.
ss Tri clamp plate 2” (1): $4.
c bend 90 1” (2): $5.
c bend 45 1” (2): $7.
Caster wheels (3): $30.
Ptfe gasket 1.5” (6): $12.
Ptfe gasket 2” (6): $12.
Ptfe gasket 3”. (1): $3.
Ptfe gasket 4”. (1): $5.
Solder stuff (wire/flux/gas): $20

Reflux add on: $134 per unit
ss tri clamp ferrule 2”(1): $4.
c reflux column add on 2”-8”(1): $11.
c reflux column cap 2” (1): $6.
c coolant coils 1/4”-6’ (1): $10.
c coolant finger 1/2”-8” (1): $8.
ss ball valve npt 1” (1): $27.
ss tri clamp 1.5” npt1” (2): $18.
c scrubbie packing: $50

Controller: $277 per unit.
Dspr 400 (1): $90.
ssr 40amp (1): $20.
Heat sink (1): $5
Power light(1): $2.
Light and alarm (1): $7.
switches (2) : $5.
Thermometer (1) : $17.
Thermowell (1): $12.
Thermowell triclamp (1): $9.
Therm connections (1): $6.
Therm wire (6’): $6.
Plug connections (3?): $27.
Box (1): $30.
Wire (4ft in 5ft out) : $35.
Fancy still design
Fancy still design
This still is again a pot still but would easily be able to be upgraded to a reflux still for $80~200 depending on the reflux design (the one provided above is a vm style). Dimensions would make it ~7’h 6~ft wide (non reflux) depending on the configuration of attachments used. Theoretical yield for this still would be the same. The benefits and the cost increase of this still is all ease of use and extra parts. I know that the extra parts wouldn’t be required to run the still but having them and making it all in one go seems easier to me.

Right now I am leaning towards the fancy design but I also know I have designers bias. I personally don’t immediately need the reflux capability but my friend has a wife who I know isn’t super into dark and flavorful spirits and so I wanted to design in the immediate capabilities as a peace offering (though she is pretty awesome and I wouldn’t be surprised if she uses this more than my friend does.) Also a big factor is I used to work in a distillery and have played with several home setups that weren’t mine so I feel comfortable working with a powerful and larger system.

My big questions:
1. Am I over designing and making a monster of a model that won’t be supported by the boiler size?
2. Why (in language for those of us not completely living in technical speak) should these stills run 5500w and a big old controller and not 2200w that you can just plug straight into a standard gfci socket. (This one is for my friend as when he asked, he was not impressed that I quoted “I feel the need, the need for speed” at him as an answer. I understand why but I can’t articulate it well without half of it being grunts and well because it is.)
3. How can I install gfci protection into a controller box and not the wall? (If this needs to go into the electrical section I can dump it there later). We live in a duplex situation where he is one house and I am the other. Our landlord isn’t nosy but they also barely update or repair anything so getting them to just randomly replace some breakers with gfci ones is a no go.
4. Am I pulling a dingus move and missing something that really should be obvious?

Finally I would like to thank y'all and your posts for all the inspiration. And especially a big thank you to Salt Must Flow as certain parts of my designs are almost direct rips from their designs.
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subbrew
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by subbrew »

My 2 cents is you will not regret overbuilding. Having the reflux column to make some neutral will be appreciated. You could save some bucks on the controller with just an amazon SCR and power meter. I think my controller was under $100. One thing I did was bought 220V heavy duty extension cords rather than wire and plugs. It saved a bit as the plug as already there.

Why a 5500 watt and a controller? The 5500 w is not much more than the 2500 W dollar wise. And you do need a controller. For a spirit run you will only be running 900 to 1000 w at the start, once heated up. Running 2500 would smear your spirit run badly. For a stripping run, power is inversely proportional to time. 2500 will work, just takes more of your day.
WildnWhiskey
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@subbrew
Thank you for your reply.
Yes that is much more nicely articulated and I’ll say that to him when we cross paths today. I should have remembered the 2200w controller bit as I see it on all the one stop shop prebuilt online retailer sites for prices that make me wonder if they mistakenly added an extra zero. I just was so focused on all the other aspects that my brain didn’t want to let go of. If you believe that I could run everything on the cheaper controller and save the initial money then I will absolutely defer to your experience and offer that up as a way to save cash on the build.

I’ll also be writing down your tip for reusing power cords as that does sound cheaper and easier. I was originally looking at using replacement appliance wire and plugs for an oven but I didn’t know if that was overkill.
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jonnys_spirit
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by jonnys_spirit »

StillDragon also has a very easy DIY 240V controller kit for about $60 (minus connectors and input/output wires). I used that kit in a 120V circuit to drive a hotplate element and needed to use a different control pot. Easy and works well. No ammeter or fancy display but it does have a dial that goes from 0-100 so you can use that as a gauge for repeatability. You could add displays and such if desired.

Cheers!
-j
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elbono
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by elbono »

I vote for simple in the beginning, leave yourself open for options but get up and running first to see what you want or don't want.

The still dragon kit is a good basic controller. The thing I wish I had was a receptacle and inlet on the box instead of the cords being permanently attached. It's on my list of improvements I need to get around to.

Check your dimensions, sanitary fitting OD is usually the same as the nominal size but US copper tubing sizes rarely have any dimension that matches the nominal size.

Here's some websites with charts of the actual diameters. For me 2-3 thousandths is a good gap to solder (0.005" on diameter)
https://www.petersenproducts.com/pipe-s ... bing-sizes
https://sanitaryfittings.us/sanitary-fi ... dimensions
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by Salt Must Flow »

I totally agree with elbono, "I vote for simple in the beginning, leave yourself open for options but get up and running first to see what you want or don't want".

I see you have a LOT of copper in your drawings. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using copper elbows and soldering them to Tri-Clamp ferrules. I just used stainless Tri-Clamp elbows and stainless Tri-Clamp reducers because it saved me that much extra work and saved me a good bit of money. It can be argued that "more copper the better", but by the time vapor reaches the top of the riser, the presence of copper becomes unimportant. For instance, my entire pot still is stainless steel (except for the product condenser) so I use 4 rolls of copper mesh at the base of the riser and that's enough copper in my experience. I could also put some copper inside of the boiler, but I've never felt the need to do that. If you just want the copper bling, that's fine.

I don't understand the bottom portion of the drawing that shows all of those additional fittings. I immediately think, 'totally unnecessary', but I know you already said those are extra parts for different configurations. I've always drawn my pot still design in the configuration I wanted it. I separately drew the still in the configuration I wanted it as a reflux column. If a pot still is the primary concern and a reflux column is NOT at all a priority then just being Tri-Clamp compatible is enough at this time. In the future you can assemble any type of reflux head you want. The ONLY thing you are dedicated to is the diameter of the riser you chose (2"). That is unless you decide to go with a 3" reflux column for instance. When I was planning my reflux still, I knew I wanted 3" so I made the pot still head 3" as well so I could use the same parts.
WildnWhiskey
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

Thank you @jonnys_spirit for your advice.

I did see this still dragon controller and was debating the ease and cost vs having my name on a list somewhere. I know my name is already probably on some lists for googling all this but the fewer the better in my mind. I also figured with the prices being about the same for components if things like fans and screens are added it might be good to buy parts and assemble a kit myself, plus I get to decide what size box I want for room for potential future upgrades. It is definitely on my radar for simplicity and ease if my friend turns out to be really stuck on the price aspect. I’ve also played with others home setups where one had just a knob and the other had a screen and just the extra little bits of ease of life a screen brought made me think it was worth it for an extra 20 bucks and 30 min of head scratching during assembly. Also I will fully admit I was spoiled that my first ever still I got to run was the distillery one where it was industrial sized and industrial built.
WildnWhiskey
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@elbono thank you for your insight!
A vote for the simpler one is heard and received.

Also having plugs and inlets on the controller is definitely something I see the benefits of. It’s why I budgeted for roughly 3 plug/receptacles. I already get annoyed at my desk cords being constantly a mess and permanently stuck in place, I can only imagine that frustration when dealing with a piping hot still and 30-40A.

Definitely saving those links and will be doing calculations later on if everything will have good solder width. 0.005” is a fantastic tip as I have limited solder experience that is mainly small home water applications that don’t really matter the solder size (built a small desk fountain for a holiday present).
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@Salt Must Flow , the legend themselves.
Thank you for your advice!

Another vote for simple heard and received. I agree with it and the main reason I have everything drawn out even though it won’t be used that way is I wanted to make sure I had enough of everything that in the very weird chance that it was needed to run with everything that that would be possible. (Plus buying in bulk/ everything now saves me crazy shipping costs and having to re set up a solder station later.) Also most of the extra parts are because many posted that the most underrated quality of life thing that they hadn’t realized at the beginning is the ability to articulate the condenser to point in any direction. And when 1”copper fittings with the ferrules and all only cost me ~$10 to make one I figured why not just make another to have on hand. Along similar lines of measure twice cut once but in this case buy double once, fabricate once, don’t regret later.

I had a good chuckle at myself when I misread your reply and thought you were talking about the boiler modifications. I was like “really SMF? Those mods are the ones most in line with your recommendations”. The 3” column ferrule and offset 4” fill/cleaning port especially. Also I bow and apologize because the fancy still controller is a direct rip of your Auberins controller.

For the amount of copper… it’s honestly that it’s cheaper than stainless right now. A stainless steel 2”x4’ pipe that I could find of similar thickness was ~$85-150 not including tri clamp ferrules; where as the copper riser will cost me $52 dollars to build it. HD has ten foot copper 2” pipe grade L for ~$110 right now in the states (at least in my upper west quadrant). That and I found a cheap bulk fittings retailer but box store copper fitting prices aren’t that far off. The fact that more copper in the system means less sulfur compounds is just a happy accident. Also I looked at making it all 3 inch to start as you can see by the addition of a 3” column ferrule, but those prices made even my optimization/efficiency addled brain stop and think. I’ve left the ability open to myself at a later date and I figured some of the two inch might be usable with an adapter elsewhere in a 3” reflux still.

A couple extra questions for everyone.
1. I see everyone talking about how superior 1” drain configurations are. Mine is 3/4” because that brought the price out to $35 for parts where as 1” would be closer to $85. Is there any reason I really should consider 1” or is it that I might be sitting for an extra 5min to let it drain?
2. Right now I have the casters being welded to the boiler. Is there any benefit to caster size and rating? Also would just configuring a wooden dolly out of scrap pallet wood do just as well?


3. Less important right now but very likely to set off all the purist stillers here and so I want to put it early to get everyone’s thoughts because I also just remembered. I’m going to be making my friend a thermometer and proofing parrot to be used both for the pot still and any potential reflux still. Now before you all get in a taste and smell huff, yes that is what I will be doing, but my friend suffered a traumatic head injury several years ago and has lost 90% of his sense of smell and it also has affected his ability to taste. (Doesn’t stop him from making the best damn beer though focused on body feel and science). He can sense the chemical feeling of alcohol in the air so I’m not worried about him blowing himself up but the minute subtle differences and changes will likely elude him. These tools will be more for the scientific side of determining cuts and changes that he can use as a crutch to support what little he can sense himself. Is there anything else you can think of on the scientific testing/determination side of things that could help him make decisions and know where in the run he is? (If this needs to be its own thread I’m happy to make one I would just want to know where to put it.)
Last edited by WildnWhiskey on Mon Nov 27, 2023 2:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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subbrew
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by subbrew »

If your friend is making cuts that means it is a spirit run and my advice would be to use the "lots of jars" method. In that case a parrot is really not helpful I do measure the abv of each jar and am beginning to get a feel of about where the cuts might come for a given recipe. Might be a good area to get his wife involved in helping make cuts. Can't comment on the thermometer as I don't have one on my system.

You could definitely cut the the drain for cost savings, cut the wheels as well. I have yet had the need to move my still once filled. I do put boards under it while running to keep the heat off the floor. As for the drain, unless you have a floor drain or can run it outside it will need a shallow pan to drain to. Just need to assess your situation to see if it is a useful addition.

For the controller build I used this SCR
and this power meter
Cable was this one or one very similar
OtisT
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by OtisT »

Since you are just starting out I would suggest you go with something even simpler than your “cheap” option. For the upper section, just make a cheep/simple, purpose built pot riser and Liebig. You would save a Lot of money and time, be up and running faster, and you won’t regret having that basic pot rig available to you in the future. You can always build a column later when you want one, and even reuse the Liebig with it.

Riser:
2” TC on the bottom, 18” of 2” riser (Or whatever your height requirement is), 2” elbow and 2”-3/4” reducer to a horizontal TC. Consider adding a short section of 2” or 3/4” on the horizontal if you need to create some clearance between the boiler and condenser.

Condenser:
Simple liebig with an elbow at the top to a horizontal TC.

Clamps+:
Two gaskets and two tri-clamps.
Last edited by OtisT on Mon Nov 27, 2023 2:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by Salt Must Flow »

A 1" drain vs a 3/4" drain makes a very noticeable difference in flow rate. I used to have a 3/4" drain, but upgraded to 1" and will never consider a 3/4" drain again. It also depends on HOW you will be draining the boiler. If you will always be installing a 3/4" garden hose to the still to drain it, having a 1" drain won't do you much good. If you will be rolling the boiler outside (or point it out a door) then 1" is super fast draining. I do it both ways depending on the exact circumstance so I use 1".

I use four 4" swiveling casters and they roll nice & smooth. You can use smaller casters, but they might roll a little rougher. Big wheels are smoother than tiny wheels. I use casters on my keg boiler, but I make a wood dolly with casters for all of my fermenters and my larger stripping boiler. I don't think there's any major reason you can't use a wood dolly for a keg boiler, but having the casters attached is very convenient. IF there's ever a need to remove the castors, I can just unscrew them from the boiler because I had stainless nuts TIG welded to the boiler and the casters screw right onto them.

A parrot is really only practical with stripping runs. If you try to use it for spirit runs, it will only cause your cuts to smear. He would be WAY better off to just collect in jars, pour a sample into a graduated cylinder and drop his spirit hydrometer in there to test the % ABV. It's also important to know temp of the product because these hydrometers are typically calibrated for 60F. If it's warmer, you'll need to make a temp correction. Seriously ... parrots have no practical use that I can think of outside of just stripping runs.
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jonnys_spirit
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by jonnys_spirit »

To put some numbers to the amount of smearing that a parrot induces, just think of mixing about 150-200ml from last jar into next jar for every fraction that you collect from a parrot. I use 800ml mason jars to collect spirit run fractions so that's about 25% smearing out of the gate when you could minimize that amount significantly by not using a parrot which increases the resolution of each fraction considerably.

You can also tell the ABV by vapor temp but the ABV isn't really that important until you blend your cuts and need an ABV to proof it to barrel or bottle strength.

Cheers!
-jonny
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WildnWhiskey
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@subbrew thank you for your advice and the links!

I absolutely will look into the lots of jars method with him; we are located in a nice mixture of suburban surrounded by rural where we are and so our second hand and thrift stores are loaded with old jars that don’t match and don’t have lids, I’m sure we could think of some uses for them :wink:.

As for the drain needing a shallow pan I will have to think about that. And the wheels are (in my head) so I can move it from what will be its hideaway spot to where the outlet with enough juice will be (kinda in the middle of my place). Good for when I have guests over and I don’t really want to have to lie through my teeth of it being an exotic Scottish coat rack.

Also you and I must think alike as the scr controller and that screen are exactly what I have bookmarked on my amazon for the cheaper still controller build. That link to the extension cable is helpful, thank you.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@OtisT thank you for your reply and wisdom!

I absolutely do have a build very similar to your suggested one saved in my back folder just in case my friend backs out and I end up tight on cash. I’ve not dismissed the benefits of a solid cheap pot still design but the modular ease of life in being able to configure my still in different positions sings its siren song to me. On a more practical note it’s also because I rent and while my landlord isn’t nosy at all I do kinda want the whole thing to be just an easily disassembled and stashed away in duffle bags kind of deal in case they come knocking or an inspector for utilities gets sent out. I don’t know their stance on production and I don’t want to find out in a bad way. (Though they did gift me a bottle of makers when I moved in after hearing that I loved whiskey.)
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@Salt Must Flow thank you for your continued support!

Heard and received on the 1” drain. I’ll look into it and maybe offer it as a possibility to my friend. As for disposal of leftovers unfortunately we don’t have a backyard in my duplex as all the space went to the communal front yard / drive ways that are very visible from the street and neighborhood. So I’m likely going to have to solely use the garden hose into a drain or out the front door into the bushes method until I move to another place.

The information on swivel casters is very helpful. I definitely think I’ll probably end up going with the large ones welded on but the dolly idea was just because I remembered that I had a bunch of scrap pallet wood that would also be pretty effective. The smoothness of travel larger ones will bring will definitely be helpful as I have to wheel this thing through my house.

Thank you for the parrot info. I used them at the distillery for our stripping runs and so that’s what I was thinking of. And I absolutely remember having to cycle and temp our graduated cylinders when having to use the hydrometer. Thank you for reminding me of that.

So this might make y’all and everyone on here scream but I definitely know there were cut runs we did at the distillery where we didn’t remove the parrot. Now in our defense these were cut runs for our whiskey, applejack, and aged rums so a bit of smear actually was probably the end goal. Also we were distilling in gallons an hour so a smear of 0.5 L into a 40gal cut probably wasn’t as noticeable as it is on our hobby size. I know we did remove the parrot for our more clean and neutral spirits (gin, absinthe, vodka, white rum). 400 gal boil tank for the win bayybeee!
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@jonnys_spirit thank you for that clarification!
It’s fascinating to see numbers and the scientific method get put to use to confirm and explain things that people like distillers notice just by doing. Though you might not like the last part of my reply to SMF above. I’ve got a couple other little shockers for people here that probably are already kinda known but I will absolutely lend my expertise in confirming. I just hope none of y’all like super cheap “small distillery” or “small distributor” vodka or gin. If y’all want I can share here or you can point me in the direction of a thread/forum that will make the biggest splash when I pull back the curtain (and you can all watch the reactions with popcorn in hand.)
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jonnys_spirit
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by jonnys_spirit »

@wildnwhiskey - sounds like you’ve done your homework ;)

There’s a small distillery down the street here with a 250g vendome rig. They offer a two day distillers class/workshop for about $800. Seems a little steep for what you can effectively cover in a two day hands on workshop. I reckon it’s all part of the experience… I do enjoy their whiskies and rums tho.

I didn’t see a parrot in their setup when I did the $25 tour but they did have a cart with graduated cylinders and p&t hydro’s. Their four plater rig had two of em bypassed. They were running low wines in a spirit run and the operator was making cuts based on what the master distiller spec’d out for that recipe. Definitely not collecting in fractions. It was a valve that directs product output either to the feints tank or the hearts tank.

They had two mashtuns that could accommodate 250g batches and numerous fermenters.

Lots of “craft distillers” (ie; marketing companies) purchase GNS and repackage it. Some might even redistill it or not. Very common business practice to outsource to enhance production demands and you can even order it to spec. Quality and process control may or may not be lacking but it is an expense to implement and maintain in any case. That’s one reason many folk prefer making their own ;)

Cheers,
jonny
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elbono
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by elbono »

A little more info on US copper tube & stainless sanitary fittings:
2" type m to 2" ferrule is doable but not easy. (0.009" dia diff)
1" type m to 1" ferrule needs a shim (0.055" dia diff)
1 1/2" ftg x cup reducer to 1 1/2" ferrule piece of cake (probably like 1 1/2" type l which would be 0.005" dia diff)

My opinion on starting simple is because I build myself. If you farm it out every trip to the shop will mean $ for setup time.

SMFs drain should be almost twice the flow of my 3/4" drain but I'm happy with 3/4". If you use stainless, threaded fittings are a bitch to get a seal. I gave up and my drain is copper after the ss nipple welded to the keg. I think sanitary stainless would work well, my next boiler will probably use that.

I use a cord like subbrews on my welder that needs 50A. For my boiler I use a twist lock 3 cond + gnd.

Lighter, cheaper, more flexible but only good for 30A
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

Ok I have confused myself.
(I’m probably gonna throw a version of this up on the electrical forum but I wanted to ask here first because y’all have been so helpful)
G’day y’all. So last night I fell down a massive rabbit hole. Really I should say badger hole because it knocked my head round and then the contents of the hole attacked me and now I gotta find my way out. Also to preface this is that I have very limited electrical knowledge and while I tried to figure this all out I think I just ended up getting my head more twisted around.

So I am trying to run my 50L keg still with a 5500w element. To do this or run any element I know you need a controller. Also gfi is needed because we are dealing with the wonderful danger spaghetti of liquid and electrical wiring, especially with it being converted to dc at high amperage. So this is all pretty standard and I understood all that fine. 5500w=~23A at 240v, run that on a 30A circuit, have a spa panel in line just really for the gfi and a big on off switch and badda bing badda boom I should be good. Ac-dc conversion will be handled by the components and 10gage wire should be easy to get ahold of and fit with all the parts.

I made a cardinal error in all this when designing plans. In my breaker box there is 30A double pole breakers labeled by the landlord as washer dryer which because I have them in unit makes sense. But I didn’t think to check how they are hooked up. And after all the good feedback and advice on cost saving by using extension cords I got yesterday I decided to do just that last night.

In my defense the laundry set up is large and old and tucked away under a shelf with some serious after market mounting attached to them so I didn’t want to open that can of worms and I figured that they would have a standard style of 30a plug. Nope! Some genius directly wired them into the wall. Since I’m renting and they came with the house that way I really don’t want to mess with that just yet and getting them moved about is a real pain in the rear. However the laundry set up is located in my kitchen and I knew for a fact that I had easy access to my oven/stove 40a outlet as it’s just in the back of one of my cupboards.

So like a good home hobbyist I went to google (our fickle information overlord long may skynet rein) and fell down the badger hole. In my head it should all run the same just with a different plug and maybe some thicker wire but the online discourse was all fighting over whether this could be done or not, warnings about burning out your devices, super technical diagrams, and unhelpful answers just saying you will burn your house down. With every new search getting me more and more confused.

My Questions:
1. Can I run my 5500w heater element with a Ssr and control module on a 40A circuit?
2. Since the only thing determining the flow of electricity through this should be the draw of max ~23A at 240v can I use 10 gage wire after the initial 8 gage from the plug?
3. Are there any parts in my still controller design that I will need to change out running on this circuit?
4. Should I add some 30A bussman fuses into my design to protect my equipment from overpowering?
5. I’m assuming I will now need a 50A gfi spa panel to run gfi on this circuit.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@jonnys_spirits Thank you for the vote of confidence in me having done my research. Unfortunately my post today about electricity might dispel that notion.

As for your little local place I don’t want to disparage anyone in the craft industry but that $800 class sounds a bit much. It’s probably that they had people ask a bunch, wanted to get some profit, needed to cover liability of people touching their still while it’s running, and for that price you should probably get a bottle of theirs at the end of the class. Also $25 FOR A TOUR?!? Shoot at my place $7 got you a tasting of all of our products we had at the moment (we were only allowed to pour a total of 1.5-2 oz per person per day) and I would do tours of our tiny facility for free with that or if you were just nice. Also the price of a tasting would be taken off the price of buying a bottle if you did. On normal tours you could go right up to the still and look at it and I would happily talk everyone’s ear off while answering any questions and giving little easy pop quizzes (often while finishing the tasting in the back so people could sip while i talked). If you showed up on a production day we would show you the still running and while you couldn’t get near it or touch it (legal reasons) we would happily explain everything that was going on, what we were doing, and why. And before anyone says anything yes this was in a state known for being expensive and in an expensive part of that state too.

As for NGS being used for bottles. Absolutely yes. Now my distillery never used it for our own labeled product because we had values and pride of our product. (We used an almost entirely wheat based mash for our vodka and neutral stuff). But we had a guy who was the supplier/2nd tier of the three tiers system (for those of you not under draconian US law this is the only person who is allowed to buy from distilleries and sell to retail places or restaurants) who wanted his own brand of vodka and didn’t care about its quality besides that it was price competitive with Smirnoff and came in a nice bottle with a pretty label. So what he wanted us to do was to buy giant 55gal blue plastic drums of industrial ethanol and run it through our still so that it could be labeled on the bottle as being distilled by us. Now I normally have no problem with mgp or other outsourced spirit making as that is what you have to do in the small sized game when everyone wants whiskey or aged spirits and your barrels are either tiny or need another two years (some of my favorite whiskey is mgp). But yeah this blue barrel stuff definitely fell into the sketchy category with me. So pro tip if your ever in a distillery tour and you see a giant blue barrel somewhere tucked away, ask what private label they are having to use that for and you might get some very honest answers.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@elbono thank you for the continued support!

That example of fitting matching definitely helps explain things. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to run the calculations last night like I had hoped due to other badger holes as explained in my above electricity post.

Absolutely hear you on the simplicity scale. Part of why I named this post overbuilding is because I am trying to find that delicate balance of still capabilities and price and everyone here has definitely put in great ideas that have made me reexamine my designs again and again.

Thank you for the clarification on the drain mechanics. While having it drain twice as quick would be nice right now I don’t think that will be an issue as I looked up the time it would take and around 20 minutes is not going to be a bother to me. I will talk to my friend about it but I think both of us for right now will be fine. Also thank you for your warning on the threaded stainless. I was planning on using it but if you say that it’s a righteous pain in the rear I might just switch to copper like you did.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by elbono »

WildnWhiskey wrote: Tue Nov 28, 2023 1:54 pm My Questions:
1. Can I run my 5500w heater element with a Ssr and control module on a 40A circuit?

Sure, you say 40a circuit, I assume it's fed from a 40a breaker with 8 awg wire. Any thing below the breaker should be rated to carry the current the breaker can supply (40a). Make sure your cord matches the plug 3 vs 4 prong.


2. Since the only thing determining the flow of electricity through this should be the draw of max ~23A at 240v can I use 10 gage wire after the initial 8 gage from the plug?

That will work until something goes wrong. The insulation may melt if Murphy has his way.


3. Are there any parts in my still controller design that I will need to change out running on this circuit?

You need things rated for 40a.
You mentioned a GFCI, if you use a 30a anything downstream of it only needs to be rated for 30a.


4. Should I add some 30A bussman fuses into my design to protect my equipment from overpowering?

See above but there are small circuit breakers that I would prefer to fuses.


5. I’m assuming I will now need a 50A gfi spa panel to run gfi on this circuit.

A 30a gfci at a reasonable price can be hard to find but it will make your life easier. Mount it in a outdoor load center and it's a "spa panel"
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@elbono You are awesome!

Thank you so much for those helpful answers and clarifications!

Yes the 40 amp plug is fed from a 40A breaker and since it powers my oven/stove there is nothing that says to me that they didn’t use 8gage. I will absolutely be making sure the cord matches and I might just buy an exact copy of the one my oven uses as they sell replacements online.

I will then absolutely have things rated for 40A if there isn’t a 30A breaker or fuse before it first. Murphy loves to use my ass as the punchline to whatever cosmic joke he is telling.

Thank you for clearing that up! No one seemed to talk about whether you could use a smaller breaker in series with a larger breaker. I will absolutely be using a 30A gfci breaker if so! Wire and parts for 10gage is much more easily accessible and better priced than 8gage.

If the breaker works / is economically feasible then I won’t worry about the fuses. I just know that a fuse set up is $17 and the fuses themselves are ~$6. Which a “disposable” $6 part to save everything else seemed like easy algebra to me and it small so would fit easy into my existing box design.

If that’s all it takes to make a spa panel then I will absolutely be doing that rather than having to shell out a minimum of $100 for a name brand spa panel. After all I don’t need insurance and code inspectors to be happy about how pretty it is.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by Salt Must Flow »

WildnWhiskey wrote: Tue Nov 28, 2023 4:03 pm If the breaker works / is economically feasible then I won’t worry about the fuses. I just know that a fuse set up is $17 and the fuses themselves are ~$6. Which a “disposable” $6 part to save everything else seemed like easy algebra to me and it small so would fit easy into my existing box design.
I've never used fuses in any controller I've ever made. If I'm not mistaken, fuses only keep your wires from burning up. Fuses do not necessarily protect components. Components cost more than the wire that fuses protect.

I have two 240V receptacles I wired up in my garage. One has a GFCI spa panel and the other one doesn't have any GFCI. I've never had any issues to cause the GFCI to trip and never had anything happen with the other receptacle to cause the breaker to trip either. Maybe one day I'll feel like adding GFCI to the other circuit.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by elbono »

WildnWhiskey wrote: Tue Nov 28, 2023 4:03 pm @elbono You are awesome!

No one seemed to talk about whether you could use a smaller breaker in series with a larger breaker.

That's the way power distribution works, your panel in the wall has a main (200a?) that feeds the lower rated breakers. In an industrial system this may go several layers deep 4000a feeding 1000a, feeding 200a, feeding 20a that feeds the outlets.


If that’s all it takes to make a spa panel

All a "spa panel" is is a outdoor load center with a GFCI. Look at the inside of one at the big box store. Buy a empty box that's the same and put whatever smaller size GFCI you want in it. Bang! It's a "spa panel"! I have an empty box because a 50a "spa panel" cost the same as a 50a GFCI and they were out of the bare breakers

A box and breaker will cost about the same as the preassembled unit but you'll have the current rating you want. I think there's a 30a GFCI on Amazon for $60 or so.
.

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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@Salt Must Flow thank you for your input!

I’ve rewritten this like six times explaining things and my thought process and each one has helped me screw my head back on straight and remember things from my years working sales in the electrical department of a hardware store learning from all of the old retired (and now bored and looking to just earn some pocket money) electricians in the department. Seriously if I hadn’t gone back to college after that at all the old timers insistence I probably would have sought out getting certified as an electrician. It’s crazy the things you forget over the years that just need a little bit of rattling to come back to you. Thanks to you and elbono for helping me get my head back on straight. I was definitely suffering the effects of “knowing just enough to get yourself confused and in trouble.”

As for the gfi panels and stuff I hear you. If it was just me I might even consider not including them as well but I’m also building this for a friend and I have a rule that I think this whole site follows of only deciding acceptable risk for yourself and not for others. It’s also why my entire still design doesn’t have a lick of brass anywhere on it even though it would cut costs.
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Re: Overbuilding? Advice welcome!

Post by WildnWhiskey »

@elbono thank you for even more clarification.

Thanks to you and SMF I have my head back on straight and I now have to keep myself from explaining circuitry in my responses as I have a tendency to ramble when trying to explain my ideas.

Yes that’s what I remember being taught by a bunch of old electricians is that the system is just a bunch of checks stepping down in amperage until it hits your outlet. It was a bunch of forums talking about how sub panels need to be of a higher amperage than the initial panel that got me twisted in knots initially which just started the pebble that caused the avalanche.

And now that you say that about spa panel construction I want to smack my head and say “doh!” Yes of course it’s that simple. I was just so spun in knots that I was over thinking and mixing everything together.
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