2" ferrule fittings right OD size?

[Dantuss]

I want to make sure I am ordering the correct ferrule size these on amazon.ca seem like a decent price they say 2" OD and the copper I am purchasing is 2" type "M". Anyone know if the 2" OD ferrule will slip inside the 2" type M? One of the reviews says "had to grind down to get it to fit into my copper" I wonder if he was using the thicker type "L" copper?
Link to ferrule with triclamp
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N4H ... 9ZSM&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Link to copper spool
https://www.amresupply.com/part/2CPTM-2 ... COPPER-P-F" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Thanks!

[Pesty]

I'm knee deep in these same adapters building a double thumper setup with 5 tri clamp connections so here is my experience using L pipe.

It's a buttweld sanitary fitting meant to be welded to another section of SS sanitary pipe. They do not slip inside the pipe easily.
Your choices to get them in are..

force them in after you anneal the tube (I did this with Type L then silver brazed them in place. Use a square or a plumb bob to make sure the pipe is straight)

If you have access to a lathe you can remove some material. (I almost bought a benchtop lathe but someone else got to it first. I've had one in the past and it's a great tool to have)

Grind off material with a bench or hand help grinder.

Purchase copper tri champ ez flange adapters made to fit in from eBay or Stilldragon.

Hope that helps ya bro!

[still_stirrin]

2” type M copper ID = 2.009”, or 51.0286mm. So, the 51mm OD ferrule will fit very close inside the copper pipe. Close tolerances will allow you to solder it inside. You’ll need to ream the copper slightly to eliminate the ridge when you cut it with tubing cutters.

Don’t forget to properly prepare the soldering surfaces before soldering. Get the correct solder and flux to make it easier to solder as well.
ss

[still_stirrin]

I'm knee deep in these...They do not slip inside copper pipe easily. Your choices to get them in are...force them in after you anneal the tube (I did this with Type L then silver brazed them in place).

2” type L ID = 1.985”, or 50.419mm. That would be an interference fit with the 51mm OD ferrule and it would require press fitting inside the pipe. In fact, you’d have to actually expand the copper in order to insert the stainless ferrule.

But, if you’d have used type M, it would have fit inside easily...not loose, but it would fit inside.
ss

[Pesty]

I got almost 40' of L for free so I've had to make things work as all the cool parts are sized for M.

[Dantuss]

What if I bought some of these fittings 2"x2"?
https://www.amresupply.com/part/470096- ... S-COUPLING" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Solder spool into one end and slide Ferrule fitting into the other end and silver solder.
Should make the joint much easier beats having to grind or force things? One downside is it will add to the cost.

[still_stirrin]

The coupling fits on the OUTSIDE of the pipe. So, its ID is much larger than the ferrule OD. It won’t help you. If you buy type M copper pipe, it’ll work fine. If you use heavier copper, type L for example, you’ll have to expand the copper to fit over the ferrule. The ferrule is closer to fitting inside the pipe than the outside.

But since copper piping ODs are common diameters so they all work with standard “hub” fittings, the IDs all vary because of the different wall thicknesses and pressure ratings. DWV (drain waste & vent) copper has the thinnest wall. But it too has a common OD.

Bottomline....type L or type K is heavier and more expensive (unless someone gives it to you). Type M is heavy enough for still making in all cases and it will work with the stainless weld fittings (ferrules and such).
ss

[JollyPirate]

Hey, Dantuss. Resurrecting this old thread to see how you got your ferrules to fit your type L copper. I got about 7ft of type L 2" for free that I'll be soldering to ss ferules next week and I'm curious the best method. It's looking like I'll have to anneal it to get a fit.

[elbono]

You will need to enlarge the ID about 0.020".

I would sand/grind about 0.010" off each side but you can bell the end by hammering the outside with a mandrel inside. You can do it on hard copper but annealed copper is easier.

[Twisted Brick]

I got about 7ft of type L 2" for free that I'll be soldering to ss ferules next week and I'm curious the best method. It's looking like I'll have to anneal it to get a fit.

I work with Type L copper a lot and annealing and banging with a BFH sure makes a super-tight fit but doesn't create the proper gap for solder to flow.

I use one of these. It takes 3-4min to ream the ID of the pipe and bob's yer uncle. Ferrule slides right in, no gas used, no waiting to cool. Have installed over 100 ferrules (2" and 3") this way.
.
Edit to add: JP, just a heads up - if you click on Dantuss' name you can see his history and the last time he was active on HD was 5 years ago.

[elbono]

I work with Type L copper a lot and annealing and banging with a BFH sure makes a super-tight fit but doesn't create the proper gap for solder to flow.

For me a 0.005" difference on diameter is the sweet spot. 0.010" is doable but difficult.

I think you needed more patience or a bigger hammer. I use a 8oz ball peen, my hammer goes tink tink tink for a very long time.

[Tōtōchtin]

I too had a clearance problem. I hammered in my ferrules but my fitting was far too tight for solder to enter. I used Shady's suggestion and I hammered in my fitting then using a small ball peen hammer and worked my way around the pipe. Once I was near the second revolution the ferrule was starting to fall out. Less then 5 min a fitting.
Tōtō

[kennstminet]

I use abrasive sleeves to enlarge the ID of the copper pipe.
Works fast and easy.

[shadylane]

Patience and a small pecking hammer works wonders on copper tubing.

Plan B.
If Ya only need to expand the tubing, something like this works really good.

[Yummyrum]

A few years ago , a 2” ferrule was a 2” ferrule .
It complied to the tri-clover dimensions that have been standard for decades .

Seems now the Chinese are making tri-clamp ferrules , they have become aware that there are all manor of pipe sizes out there in the world .Perhaps good observation on their part and we can take that to advantage .

But buyer beware . When you buy a SS ferrule from China , they quote the clamp diameter as K , EG K64 ( 64mm diameter ) or K51 ( which can mean 51mm or 51.5mm)


But the actual pipe diameter can have several options .

Wish I had a link example but can’t find one when I need it .

[NormandieStill]

But buyer beware . When you buy a SS ferrule from China , they quote the clamp diameter as K , EG K64 ( 64mm diameter ) or K51 ( which can mean 51mm or 51.5mm)


But the actual pipe diameter can have several options .

There's a reason for that. The triclover standard has different size mating plates for ranges of "standard" tubing. So the K64 that so many of us use is valid for 51mm and 45mm tubing (That's 2" and 1.75"). And the K77(.5) is valid for 57mm and 63mm. This allows similar tube diameters to be connected together without needing adaptors. Especially with the smaller diameters which all map on to K50.5. It also means that you don't need to carry lots of each of the clamps as there are only a few sizes to deal with.

It did notice that the copper versions are often sold as inside or outside diameter meaning that you can more easily match them to your local variety of copper pipe. I just don't trust their longevity enough to blow the considerable cost (relative to stainless onea) in buying a set. I am going to test opening up a piece of tube to fit one soon though. That looks like the trick which may finally get my shotgun condenser built!