Stilling in a BrewZilla 35l?

[LordL]

Hi!

Just saw they sell a lid for the brewZilla, making it easy to convert to a still:
https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-pro-sigh ... r-lid.html

Then, that got me wondering, how does it regulate energy? The gen 4 seems to have a PID built in, but the gen 3 costs a lot less still.

Anyone here that has gotten ok results with the Brewzilla gen 3.1.1? Would the aim be to set a temperature to try to emulate the power going in on a spirit run or would you just put it to boil on the 1900W element and pray to the gods it wont smear to much?

[howie]

the Gen 3 is a very capable boiler for beer and distilling, if you find a way to adjust the voltage input.
personally, i have re-wired the elements on my gen 3 to include a power controller.
without the power controller, you would be smearing everything.
apparently (as i have not personally seen it) the gen 4 has the ability to adjust the power input on a percentage basis, which would negate the need for a power controller.
that lid is expensive, there is a cheaper version with just the 51mm triclover.

[LordL]

the Gen 3 is a very capable boiler for beer and distilling, if you find a way to adjust the voltage input.
personally, i have re-wired the elements on my gen 3 to include a power controller.
without the power controller, you would be smearing everything.
apparently (as i have not personally seen it) the gen 4 has the ability to adjust the power input on a percentage basis, which would negate the need for a power controller.
that lid is expensive, there is a cheaper version with just the 51mm triclover.

Hey! I read your post! Lots of good info in it, but I'm not feeling that safe in rewiring and installing additional controllers. If the gen 4 has power regulation built in, I think I will consider that..

Thank you for all the great tips!

[wscywabbit]

FWIW, I have the Gen 3 Brewzilla and have been using it for distilling (American version). I have both the Alcoengine pot still head and the column still head. I typically set the temp controller to 140* to get started, and then switch to HH. I use only the 1000w heater for stripping runs (I may try full bore 1500w next stripping run, but it's worked well so far with only the 1000w), and only the 500w for spirit runs.

Since the wash only boils at the temps it wants to by the % of alcohol in the wash, the wash slowly works its way up temperature-wise until its mostly water. I've had great success so far, and have really enjoyed what product I've made (only UJSSM so far, working on sweet feed next...)

I have been switching to the 1000w after I get into tails to pick the speed up a bit and run to the end for feints, but the 500w seems to do well otherwise, just slow and easy.

If anyone has suggestions for how to make better use of the equipment, I'm all ears.

There is a great thread on this BTW by Kakashi viewtopic.php?t=74938

[LordL]

FWIW, I have the Gen 3 Brewzilla and have been using it for distilling (American version). I have both the Alcoengine pot still head and the column still head. I typically set the temp controller to 140* to get started, and then switch to HH. I use only the 1000w heater for stripping runs (I may try full bore 1500w next stripping run, but it's worked well so far with only the 1000w), and only the 500w for spirit runs.

Since the wash only boils at the temps it wants to by the % of alcohol in the wash, the wash slowly works its way up temperature-wise until its mostly water. I've had great success so far, and have really enjoyed what product I've made (only UJSSM so far, working on sweet feed next...)

I have been switching to the 1000w after I get into tails to pick the speed up a bit and run to the end for feints, but the 500w seems to do well otherwise, just slow and easy.

If anyone has suggestions for how to make better use of the equipment, I'm all ears.

There is a great thread on this BTW by Kakashi viewtopic.php?t=74938

Thanks for the input! The low budget brand brew monk has a boiler that can be set between 100w and 2400w in 100w intervals. But lacks the options for the head.. otherwise, that would have been a great solution I believe.

Hmmm. Gen 4 seems to have some kind of built in power management if PID is bypassed in software.

It's quite the endeavour to find gear that suits ones personal preferences!

[rubberduck71]

I have the Digiboil 35L 120v. I use a Brewhaus voltage controller ~80-90v on the display but for my rig that's on the 1000w for spirit runs. IMO the 500w offtake was just too slow.

Hope that helps ya.

[wscywabbit]

I have the Digiboil 35L 120v. I use a Brewhaus voltage controller ~80-90v on the display but for my rig that's on the 1000w for spirit runs. IMO the 500w offtake was just too slow.

Hope that helps ya.

It is awefully slow, especially once you hit 65% ABV or so. That's why I kick it up to run the tails. I also don't mess around with running just the 500w on the column attachment. It's painfully slow.

Do you run the voltage controller direct, or did you hack into the wiring to bypass the stock controller like some of the others?

[howie]

FWIW, I have the Gen 3 Brewzilla and have been using it for distilling (American version). I have both the Alcoengine pot still head and the column still head. I typically set the temp controller to 140* to get started, and then switch to HH. I use only the 1000w heater for stripping runs (I may try full bore 1500w next stripping run, but it's worked well so far with only the 1000w), and only the 500w for spirit runs.

Since the wash only boils at the temps it wants to by the % of alcohol in the wash, the wash slowly works its way up temperature-wise until its mostly water. I've had great success so far, and have really enjoyed what product I've made (only UJSSM so far, working on sweet feed next...)

I have been switching to the 1000w after I get into tails to pick the speed up a bit and run to the end for feints, but the 500w seems to do well otherwise, just slow and easy.

If anyone has suggestions for how to make better use of the equipment, I'm all ears.

There is a great thread on this BTW by Kakashi viewtopic.php?t=74938

you will never regret getting a power controller, it will improve your product substantially, especially when refluxing.
how long does a spirit run take using just the 500w, i would have to camp out overnight at that power level
i didn't know any better at first, but all my neutral was smeared to buggery without a controller.
i had to re-run everything to clean it up.
if your condenser can handle it, stripping runs at full bore.

[rubberduck71]

Do you run the voltage controller direct, or did you hack into the wiring to bypass the stock controller like some of the others?

Yep -- direct. I've found that as long as I'm above 50%, there's no effect on the "smart board" or display on my Digiboil (though it's the dumbed-down version of a Brewzilla that has more functions on it).

[wscywabbit]

you will never regret getting a power controller, it will improve your product substantially, especially when refluxing.
how long does a spirit run take using just the 500w, i would have to camp out overnight at that power level
i didn't know any better at first, but all my neutral was smeared to buggery without a controller.
i had to re-run everything to clean it up.
if your condenser can handle it, stripping runs at full bore.

Yep I'm definitely looking at the power controller option. I am reluctant to hack the wiring though because I primarily brew beer (quite a bit, actually) and don't want to damage my system.

A spirit run @ 500w on the pot still head was about 6 hours for a 4.25 gallon batch of low wines. A similar spirit run on the column @ 1000w took about 8.

I do try to run the column like suggested on Husker's thread about LM management viewtopic.php?t=13265 And it works pretty well. I was able to get as high as 93% ABV (I figure that's not too bad for that short little Alcoengine column), and a nice separation of heads/hearts. I cut out just before the tails came through. I just read a thread that suggested running the column hotter than 1000w to get better stratification in it, so I will probably try that next time.

I am still learning both the process and the equipment, but I'm pretty happy so far

[Renhoekk]

Would the aim be to set a temperature to try to emulate the power going in on a spirit run or would you just put it to boil on the 1900W element and pray to the gods it wont smear to much?

You set it to above "boil" temp - about 104C is sufficient for distilling. A common mistake with brewing vessels is setting the temp too low, at which point the element shuts off and your distillation run craps out. Buy a voltage controller if you want to reduce the energy going into the boiler, but never ever set the thermostat below the boiling temp of water.

[LordL]

Would the aim be to set a temperature to try to emulate the power going in on a spirit run or would you just put it to boil on the 1900W element and pray to the gods it wont smear to much?

You set it to above "boil" temp - about 104C is sufficient for distilling. A common mistake with brewing vessels is setting the temp too low, at which point the element shuts off and your distillation run craps out. Buy a voltage controller if you want to reduce the energy going into the boiler, but never ever set the thermostat below the boiling temp of water.

So in that case it's full speed on either 1900w or 500w...

I think a boiler with good power regulation is a bit of a must then. Thanks!

[GrumbleStill]

Hi!

Just saw they sell a lid for the brewZilla, making it easy to convert to a still:
https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-pro-sigh ... r-lid.html

Then, that got me wondering, how does it regulate energy? The gen 4 seems to have a PID built in, but the gen 3 costs a lot less still.

Anyone here that has gotten ok results with the Brewzilla gen 3.1.1? Would the aim be to set a temperature to try to emulate the power going in on a spirit run or would you just put it to boil on the 1900W element and pray to the gods it wont smear to much?

Hi Lordl,

FWIW, I consider the so called “pro” lid as one of my most expensive mistakes. There’s insufficient clearances between the 2” and 3” ferrules and handles. The seal is an unapproved material, and a nightmare to seat. The sight and sound of a lid seal leaking mid run is not exactly fun. The sight glass is plastic, and needs to be changed out for ss when distilling.

On the other hand, I’m really happy with the way my 240V Digiboil works with a cheap voltage controller. Just turn the dial to get the power/ off take I want. There’s plenty of options there, but it’s super important to have a good idea of what you’re going to make, and what kind of rig is best suited to it. Otherwise you’ll just be wasting your hard earned.

[LordL]

Hi!

Just saw they sell a lid for the brewZilla, making it easy to convert to a still:
https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-pro-sigh ... r-lid.html

Then, that got me wondering, how does it regulate energy? The gen 4 seems to have a PID built in, but the gen 3 costs a lot less still.

Anyone here that has gotten ok results with the Brewzilla gen 3.1.1? Would the aim be to set a temperature to try to emulate the power going in on a spirit run or would you just put it to boil on the 1900W element and pray to the gods it wont smear to much?

Hi Lordl,

FWIW, I consider the so called “pro” lid as one of my most expensive mistakes. There’s insufficient clearances between the 2” and 3” ferrules and handles. The seal is an unapproved material, and a nightmare to seat. The sight and sound of a lid seal leaking mid run is not exactly fun. The sight glass is plastic, and needs to be changed out for ss when distilling.

On the other hand, I’m really happy with the way my 240V Digiboil works with a cheap voltage controller. Just turn the dial to get the power/ off take I want. There’s plenty of options there, but it’s super important to have a good idea of what you’re going to make, and what kind of rig is best suited to it. Otherwise you’ll just be wasting your hard earned.

It's going to take alot of distillers biquits to manage the lid, for sure!
Just liked the idea of a "larger" still, making it possible for me to fill up a 5l oak barrel on a couple of strips + spirit. Power regulation feels like a must if spending money on a brew machine like this. I brew beer as well, so it wouldn't hurt stepping up from my ~30l biab, even though it works fine.

[wscywabbit]

Hi Lordl,

FWIW, I consider the so called “pro” lid as one of my most expensive mistakes. There’s insufficient clearances between the 2” and 3” ferrules and handles. The seal is an unapproved material, and a nightmare to seat. The sight and sound of a lid seal leaking mid run is not exactly fun. The sight glass is plastic, and needs to be changed out for ss when distilling.

On the other hand, I’m really happy with the way my 240V Digiboil works with a cheap voltage controller. Just turn the dial to get the power/ off take I want. There’s plenty of options there, but it’s super important to have a good idea of what you’re going to make, and what kind of rig is best suited to it. Otherwise you’ll just be wasting your hard earned.

It's going to take alot of distillers biquits to manage the lid, for sure!
Just liked the idea of a "larger" still, making it possible for me to fill up a 5l oak barrel on a couple of strips + spirit. Power regulation feels like a must if spending money on a brew machine like this. I brew beer as well, so it wouldn't hurt stepping up from my ~30l biab, even though it works fine.

I know its an expensive option, but I bought the Alcoengine alembic dome for my Brewzilla, it runs about $100. There is also a SS lid that isn't as tall, and doesn't have the sight glass that is about $40. Both are less expensive than the Pro Lid, and both have a silicone seal, but I wrapped mine really well with PTFE tape, and I've never had a problem with it not sealing.

[LordL]

Hi Lordl,

FWIW, I consider the so called “pro” lid as one of my most expensive mistakes. There’s insufficient clearances between the 2” and 3” ferrules and handles. The seal is an unapproved material, and a nightmare to seat. The sight and sound of a lid seal leaking mid run is not exactly fun. The sight glass is plastic, and needs to be changed out for ss when distilling.

On the other hand, I’m really happy with the way my 240V Digiboil works with a cheap voltage controller. Just turn the dial to get the power/ off take I want. There’s plenty of options there, but it’s super important to have a good idea of what you’re going to make, and what kind of rig is best suited to it. Otherwise you’ll just be wasting your hard earned.

It's going to take alot of distillers biquits to manage the lid, for sure!
Just liked the idea of a "larger" still, making it possible for me to fill up a 5l oak barrel on a couple of strips + spirit. Power regulation feels like a must if spending money on a brew machine like this. I brew beer as well, so it wouldn't hurt stepping up from my ~30l biab, even though it works fine.

I know its an expensive option, but I bought the Alcoengine alembic dome for my Brewzilla, it runs about $100. There is also a SS lid that isn't as tall, and doesn't have the sight glass that is about $40. Both are less expensive than the Pro Lid, and both have a silicone seal, but I wrapped mine really well with PTFE tape, and I've never had a problem with it not sealing.

Sounds like great options! Alembic sounds awesome, not interested in makin neutrals for the moment anyway.

[rubberduck71]

Sounds like great options! Alembic sounds awesome, not interested in makin neutrals for the moment anyway.

For what it's worth, I also have the copper alembic dome. It's more "stable" than the SS because the added height of my column with the 36"x2" SS spool stuffed with copper mesh. I use it below both the pot still & reflux heads. When you add in the additional sideways torque the water hoses add, the rigidity of the dome is a benefit.

I added a weldless bulkhead 2" triclamp fitting to the opening of the dome, just to add modularity.

[LordL]

Sounds like great options! Alembic sounds awesome, not interested in makin neutrals for the moment anyway.

For what it's worth, I also have the copper alembic dome. It's more "stable" than the SS because the added height of my column with the 36"x2" SS spool stuffed with copper mesh. I use it below both the pot still & reflux heads. When you add in the additional sideways torque the water hoses add, the rigidity of the dome is a benefit.

I added a weldless bulkhead 2" triclamp fitting to the opening of the dome, just to add modularity.

Sounds like a good upgrade!

I believe I'm stuck with a welded 1,5" at the moment. Wouldn't mind increasing the diameter a bit, but precision drilling stainless and no workshop makes it kind of hard at the moment.

[Ovrcome]

I have the Digiboil 35L 120v. I use a Brewhaus voltage controller ~80-90v on the display but for my rig that's on the 1000w for spirit runs. IMO the 500w offtake was just too slow.

Hope that helps ya.

Duck,

I have a quick question about your setup. Could I Start my spirit run by Turning on Both Elements to heat up the mash faster. Then right before its at 150 turn off the 500w element and just use the power controller to run that element?

Also, is there a certain "setting" i need to use on the Digiboil. Im used to the T500 where its basically ON or Off.

Thank you

[Lc 1ace]

I converted a Digi Boil 35L boiler into a still. I just set the temp to 96c and turn on both heaters. From the time I turn it on to the time I finish the run is 3 hours. I love it.

[Yummyrum]

I converted a Digi Boil 35L boiler into a still. I just set the temp to 96c and turn on both heaters. From the time I turn it on to the time I finish the run is 3 hours. I love it.

You are using an external power controller with yeah ?

[rubberduck71]

Duck,

I have a quick question about your setup. Could I Start my spirit run by Turning on Both Elements to heat up the mash faster. Then right before its at 150 turn off the 500w element and just use the power controller to run that element?

Also, is there a certain "setting" i need to use on the Digiboil. Im used to the T500 where its basically ON or Off.

Thank you

For stripping runs, don't bother hooking up power controller. 1500w full blast @ 212F/100C temp setting. Like Lc 1ace says below, 7 gal (don't fill to 8!!!) should be ~3 hrs.

For spirit runs, yep -- heat up with 1500w & then when you see head temp spike or once offtake starts, switch off 500w & find your sweet spot with the power controller + 1000w element only.

[Ovrcome]

AWESOME! Thank you! What "setting" or temp does the digiboil need to be at during the run? Just full blast?

Duck,

I have a quick question about your setup. Could I Start my spirit run by Turning on Both Elements to heat up the mash faster. Then right before its at 150 turn off the 500w element and just use the power controller to run that element?

Also, is there a certain "setting" i need to use on the Digiboil. Im used to the T500 where its basically ON or Off.

Thank you

For stripping runs, don't bother hooking up power controller. 1500w full blast @ 212F/100C temp setting. Like Lc 1ace says below, 7 gal (don't fill to 8!!!) should be ~3 hrs.

For spirit runs, yep -- heat up with 1500w & then when you see head temp spike or once offtake starts, switch off 500w & find your sweet spot with the power controller + 1000w element only.

[howie]

AWESOME! Thank you! What "setting" or temp does the digiboil need to be at during the run? Just full blast?

Duck,

I have a quick question about your setup. Could I Start my spirit run by Turning on Both Elements to heat up the mash faster. Then right before its at 150 turn off the 500w element and just use the power controller to run that element?

Also, is there a certain "setting" i need to use on the Digiboil. Im used to the T500 where its basically ON or Off.

Thank you

For stripping runs, don't bother hooking up power controller. 1500w full blast @ 212F/100C temp setting. Like Lc 1ace says below, 7 gal (don't fill to 8!!!) should be ~3 hrs.

For spirit runs, yep -- heat up with 1500w & then when you see head temp spike or once offtake starts, switch off 500w & find your sweet spot with the power controller + 1000w element only.

have the digiboil set to max temp, but control the boil with the power controller.

[rubberduck71]

AWESOME! Thank you! What "setting" or temp does the digiboil need to be at during the run? Just full blast?

As mentioned by Howie above, just set it to "max" or in the Digiboil's case 212F. Vapors will come off starting ~170-180F in the boiler. For my rig, the head temp is usually 10F behind the boiler.

When the temp hits 200+ you're pretty much at the back end of your run, as there's mostly water in the boiler.

THAT SAID: do NOT run your rig thinking that temps and/or ABV of the offtake are the thresholds to do this, that, or the other thing. Power up/down your controller to get a pencil lead thick stream (i.e. find the sweet spot). On my rig, once you drop below ~50-60v on the display, the display on the Digiboil fades out. From my experience, you'll never need to dial it back that much. 80-90v at start of run, then edges up to 90-100v towards end of run, then when you know it's definitely in tails, whack it up to full.

Have fun.

[Yummyrum]

On my rig, once you drop below ~50-60v on the display, the display on the Digiboil fades out. From my experience, you'll never need to dial it back that much. 80-90v at start of run, then edges up to 90-100v towards end of run, then when you know it's definitely in tails, whack it up to full.

Have fun.

rubberduck , I was wondering about that , the point where you run the external controller so low that it causes the Digiboil electronics to start cutting out . It worries me that the Digiboil electronics may be damaged in a similar way to how Digital Meters blow up when connected to the output of an SCR ( phase controller) when they are run really low.


Maybe the safest option is to modify the Brewzilla with a bypass switch like is done here
Brewzilla/Robobrew with DIY controller

[Lc 1ace]

I run my digiboil at full power on both stripping and spirit runs. When my digital guage gets to 82C, I turn off the 500w switch. And let the 1000w slowly raise the temp till
My condenser starts to drip. I do this to avoid a boil over. Once I have a steady flow coming out I flip the switch back on and let it run. It usually starts when it reaches about 88 or 89C. Once it starts I get about .750l then the temp will raise by 1 degree for each .750l. As soon as it hits 96C I turn off the power. I end up with 6 bottles .750l each. I get the best tasting bottle, usually the second or third one, and I set that one aside. I do 3 seperate stripping runs, then for my spirit run, I pour all 15 bottles back into the still and add 3 gallons of water and distill the same way, when I finish, i make my cuts. Usually the first 2 and the last 2 bottles don't make it into the final product. Then i pour all of the rest of the bottles together and ad the three bottles that i had set aside. I check my proof and water it down to 94 proof . I use a calculator from the web to figure how much water to use. Those three bottles of hearts are going to give you maximum flavor to your finished product. You will go from good whiskey to great whiskey!

[Malthead247]

Considering getting a 65l version for stilling. Is the heating with direct immersion elements or is it similar to the T500 boiler where the bottom plate is heated?

[bobpratl]

Considering getting a 65l version for stilling. Is the heating with direct immersion elements or is it similar to the T500 boiler where the bottom plate is heated?

I'm not sure about the 65L but my 35L has a solid cast bottom with two heaters on the under side. A 500W and a 1900W heater which can be switch in or out via two separate switches. I think that the 65L uses larger heaters.

[Hillbilly66]

Guys the Brewzilla 3.1.1 like I have aren't you supposed to be able to set a solid temp for mashing ? All I've done is use it to distill with but the 1k what is to fast and the 500 is painfully slow ,mine is the 35l .I tried hooking it up to a inkbird it 308 digital Contr and just running the 1k w and it kept shutting down the Brewzilla.
So is the brewhaus heating Control thr best option