Bolverk wrote: ↑Sat Feb 03, 2024 6:00 am
So, I'll pulling water off my tap, from there it will go to a tee
one leg will feed the float
the other will go over to the product condenser.
As long as I put a valve on the condenser feed it should have enough pressure in the lines to make sure the float will work.
You can put a 15 psi check valve on the leg going to the product condenser, that would guarantee you have at least 15psi for the float valve all the time regardless of your flow going to the PC
Something like this: https://a.co/d/2WRD454
There is a post on here somewhere about that type of thing. From what I recall it was not usable out of the box, it didn't produce a steady stream of steam. I think the guy was tinkering with it to try to get it to work, but not sure if he ever did.
Besides that, yours looks way better than that ugly box
tjsc5f wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2024 1:58 pm
There is a post on here somewhere about that type of thing. From what I recall it was not usable out of the box, it didn't produce a steady stream of steam. I think the guy was tinkering with it to try to get it to work, but not sure if he ever did.
Besides that, yours looks way better than that ugly box
Good to know
Haha thanks dude
There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
tjsc5f wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2024 9:28 pm
It says it works with 10-150PSI. I don't know how you're planning on feeding it, but most modern home water systems are in the 50-90PSI range.
If you're planning on running a pump from a reservoir, something like this should do just fine https://a.co/d/6D0PXTZ
Thanks for the advice on this, I was planned on running a water line to a tee, one side will feed the float, the other over to the condenser, while my house has 80psi pressure I wasn't sure how that would look pressure wise with just a trickle running through. This will keep pressure on the float side and I can make the output to the condenser controllable on a gate valve
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There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
On your educator. I have been planning a steam rig as well. Steam wand coming down to a tee with branch off to each side. Using mig wire tips as nozzles. .6mm, .9mm(.035"), 1.2mm (.045") and 1.3mm (.052") are common sizes, available here at any welding supply for about $1.00 ea. All use common 8m thread. So it would be easy and cheap to dial in. If oriface is too small a drill bit could fix that. I figured two or possibly 3 on each branch, 180deg opposite on x axis with a slight upward angle would inject steam up into beer and create a swirl in the liquid.
Just an idea I haven't tried yet to see if it's viable but is affordable.
Cherrs
Bolverk wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 11:03 am
Thanks for the advice on this, I was planned on running a water line to a tee, one side will feed the float, the other over to the condenser, while my house has 80psi pressure I wasn't sure how that would look pressure wise with just a trickle running through. This will keep pressure on the float side and I can make the output to the condenser controllable on a gate valve
NorthWoodsAb wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 5:29 pm
On your educator. I have been planning a steam rig as well. Steam wand coming down to a tee with branch off to each side. Using mig wire tips as nozzles. .6mm, .9mm(.035"), 1.2mm (.045") and 1.3mm (.052") are common sizes, available here at any welding supply for about $1.00 ea. All use common 8m thread. So it would be easy and cheap to dial in. If oriface is too small a drill bit could fix that. I figured two or possibly 3 on each branch, 180deg opposite on x axis with a slight upward angle would inject steam up into beer and create a swirl in the liquid.
Just an idea I haven't tried yet to see if it's viable but is affordable.
Cherrs
Thanks, yeah if the educator doesn't work I'll probably try something like that
There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
tjsc5f wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 6:08 pm
Looking good! When are you going to fire it up?
Shortly after the educator gets here, which should be in a few weeks hopefully.... I suppose I could make a make shift steam wand just so I can do something.
Otherwise the missing spools I need for the thumper side should be here tomorrow.
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There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
Bolverk wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 6:52 pm
Shortly after the educator gets here, which should be in a few weeks hopefully....
I was surprised, I ordered a 1/4" eductor off aliexpress on Feb 2nd and received in on Feb 12th - way faster than I imagined lol.
I ordered some electronics widgets for a new wireless controller at the same time, but they haven't even shipped yet
zach wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 7:02 pm
I like it !!!
A heating element in the thumper would help speed up the warm up. You're probably going to need some insulation, with only 4.5 kw.
Thanks!
I was only planned on starting with 1 gal in the thumper, and that's not enough to cover the elements (need 3 gals to be safe). 1 gal should heat up pretty quickly. If the HD Thumper calculator is close, it's only like 20 mins with 1 gal.
Yeah you're probably right, I suspect I'll have lot of heat loss.
But... the added passive reflux could help with proof so I'll play it by ear and see how she does that first run or two. I'm hoping to hit 60% final spirit with a 8% beer, but that may be optimistic.
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There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
Bolverk wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 7:26 pm
Yeah you're probably right, I suspect I'll have lot of heat loss.
But... the added passive reflux could help with proof so I'll play it by ear and see how she does that first run or two. I'm hoping to hit 60% final spirit with a 8% beer, but that may be optimistic.
If I'm following you correctly, and with the data in the haggy calc image you posted, you're planning on putting 12gal of 8% wash in your mash tun/stripping still, 1 gal of water in your thumper and heating the whole thing with your 4,500w steam generator?
It looks like that would not work very well, if this calculator is correct.
If I'm following you correctly, and with the data in the haggy calc image you posted, you're planning on putting 12gal of 8% wash in your mash tun/stripping still, 1 gal of water in your thumper and heating the whole thing with your 4,500w steam generator?
It looks like that would not work very well, if this calculator is correct.
Nope, that's a new one for me.
Thanks, I'll play around with some different scenarios and try to come up with something that makes sense.
Yes that was the plan, for the first run until I have some feints I can add.
What would you recommend?
There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.
Bolverk wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 9:19 pm
What would you recommend?
Without any low wines or feints, I'd probably just do a stripping run and bypass the thumper.
I think you said you have an element in your thumper? And it looks like your valves can block off the thumper from the stripper? You could put the low wines from the stripping run in the thumper and just do a double pot still for this round, if that's the case.
Bolverk wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 9:19 pm
What would you recommend?
Without any low wines or feints, I'd probably just do a stripping run and bypass the thumper.
I think you said you have an element in your thumper? And it looks like your valves can block off the thumper from the stripper? You could put the low wines from the stripping run in the thumper and just do a double pot still for this round, if that's the case.
Yes, that's exactly what I have
That's a good idea, I'll do that for the first run, thanks!
There are two types of people in this world.
1. Those that can extrapolate from incomplete information.