Mash tun / stripping still

[Bolverk]

I hadn't thought about that.... The line is 1/2", I guess I can always put in a valve to meter it in a little slower.

[tjsc5f]

Since you need the line to be longer anyway, you could get one of those refrigerator line kits from the hardware store, I think they're usually 1/4" flexible copper.

[Bolverk]

Water rerun

[Bolverk]

I had already purchased the 1/2" by the time I replied

[Bolverk]

3.4

[Bolverk]

3.5

[Bolverk]

3.6

[Salt Must Flow]

I think a 1/4" water line (or a valve to restrict it) would help to reduce the free flow of water that's coming over to the element as it is boiling.

[Bolverk]

I dont know man, the 1/2 is doing a good job keeping up.

What I think is happening is that instead of vaporizing the water at a regulated pace, the water is boiling over causing the float to send over more water. I think more headspace solves this problem.... it was working with 6" of headspace in an earlier test (before i blew the element) but now it only have 3".

The big problem now is that I cant possibly hang any more crap off the edge of this keg. That whole boiler assembly is easily 50lbs.

[Salt Must Flow]

I dont know man, the 1/2 is doing a good job keeping up.

What I think is happening is that instead of vaporizing the water at a regulated pace, the water is boiling over causing the float to send over more water. I think more headspace solves this problem.... it was working with 6" of headspace in an earlier test (before i blew the element) but now it only have 3".

The big problem now is that I cant possibly hang any more crap off the edge of this keg. That whole boiler assembly is easily 50lbs.

Yeah you're probably right. Lowering the water level should help with that, but like you said, that's more parts and more weight.

[Bolverk]

I'm going to have to redo this whole damn thing to stand on it own

[NormandieStill]

I'm going to have to redo this whole damn thing to stand on it own

Have a look at tripods for lighting equipment and a grip arm. Or even just a simple support stand from a couple of pieces of wood. If you set it up to be a reasonably tight fit when empty, then it'll take the weight as soon as you add water.

[Bolverk]

New plan...

Going to do the boiler tube in 4", the element will be in approximately 1.2 gal of water and should take about 5-6 mins to come to a boil. It'll have 6" of water coverage and 8" of headspace.

[hellbilly007]

Extruded aluminum is a good, modular means of a support rack for the steam generator. I have heard referred to as T-rail also. This railing is what I have included for the frame work on my dream steam generator.

[Bolverk]

Extruded aluminum is a good, modular means of a support rack for the steam generator. I have heard referred to as T-rail also. This railing is what I have included for the frame work on my dream steam generator.

I dont disagree, that T slot extruded aluminum is nice.

I inventoried all my sanitary fittings and I've got basically everything but the 4" 18" spool and the 4"-2" reducer. So I'm thinking the upgrade to 4" or the T slot support are going to cost about the same so why not build it in the 4"... I think it'll be more stable in the long run. Plus something im just now thinking about is that I'll be able to swing the generator over to a larger barrel and mash with it as a stand alone device.

This whole project has evolved and gotten kinda out of hand, the wife just rolls her eyes when she sees me unpackaging triclamp parts

[zach]

I could have purchased four 20 l kegs last week at $15 each. But I was out of town and they were gone when I got back. A lot cheaper than 4 in tri-clamps.

You may be better off with something bigger than four inch diameter as it will give you more potential for steam production at a later date.

I'm happy with my 15 gallon keg for steam generator. I'm retrofitting a a float valve so I don't go dry if my calculations are wrong.

[Bolverk]

That's a good deal! Shame you missed it. I've got 4 20l kegs i got for $25 ea for a small 3 chamber I was going to do... I could easily use one of those.

I see what you're saying, but I honestly can't envision myself running more than the 4500w. That would require me to run another 220/240v circuit.

It's almost easier for me to just buy the $95 spool than schedule time with my fabricator to get him to weld on the ferrules.

In retrospect I should have just gone with a 15g keg and kept the project simple lol

[Salt Must Flow]

I've been considering turning one of my 7.5 gal kegs into a steamer. It would require 3-4 gal or so. I was thinking about plumbing the float valve inside the keg to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. I just wonder if the float valve would hold up over time. The reason for wanting to use a 7.5 gal keg is so that it could house two 5500W elements.

[Bolverk]

Hard to say... That's one of the reasons I isolated the float on mine... high temp floats are very expensive. Plus the boiling surface may cause an erratic feed.

[Tōtōchtin]

I've been considering turning one of my 7.5 gal kegs into a steamer. It would require 3-4 gal or so. I was thinking about plumbing the float valve inside the keg to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. I just wonder if the float valve would hold up over time. The reason for wanting to use a 7.5 gal keg is so that it could house two 5500W elements.

You could use a hi temp double float valve mounted inside a stainless steel/ copper pipe,the rod soldered to end caps. Then a pipe solder to the bottom cap as an inlet. That should remove water disturbance. Top of the rod is threaded to mount to your keg. I need to put mine together but that's the direction I'm leaning with a drip flow to replace my water.
Tōtō

[Bolverk]

Had a thought while at work today... so I made a tube for the float that's longer. I'll loose a bit of water coverage but gain some headspace.

So before I go spending a bunch of money on 4" stuff, it can't hurt to try this.

The green line is where the top of the element is so I should have about 8" of water coverage and 7" of headspace

Float now sit lower

[tjsc5f]

Good idea!

[Bolverk]

Well... I guess it was worth a try.



Things looked promising until the float valve stuck open... shit

[Bolverk]

I'm thinking I may have put the float too close to the bottom and the water coming out-of it was also pushing the float up so ot couldn't close... going to trim off 1/2" and try again

[Bolverk]

So the float issue was that it was too close. It's fine.

Still thinking 4" boiler tube with more headspace is the only way get this working right

[tjsc5f]

If you have another 2" elbow and a few more spools (borrow from your thumper setup), you could move your PRV to the side and loop up and back down to gain more headspace. Just something to experiment with before purchasing the 4" stuff if you want.

[Bolverk]

Thanks, that's a good idea. I'll take a look at what parts I have available.

[Bolverk]

So here's what I was able to come up with what I had on hand.

I put a blocking plate in where the old steam path was so now the steam will have to go up and over. I've effectively gained 6" more headspace.

[Bolverk]

Test...

[Yummyrum]

Getting there Bolverk . Hey I wonder if all that water is just the steam condensing in the piping ? Maybe if you wait until the Pipes get up to temp , the water issue might stop or slow .
Do you reckon lagging it would help ?