Boiler upgrade build - Got my next keg!

[venkman]

Excited to follow this build Moose! A 100L boiler already has the gears turning in my brain.

[MooseMan]

Excited to follow this build Moose! A 100L boiler already has the gears turning in my brain.

Yeah she's a big girl!
Even just the ability to run a 50-60l strip of Rum or all grain at full power with no risk of puking makes it super appealing!

[MooseMan]

Since I discovered the cast section under the flange, my thoughts on the drain connection have changed a bit, so I've just done this with a 35mm elbow and it fits like a dream.

Hopefully it's plenty strong enough once brazed in, but I'm going to put a copper strap across at the valve end to minimise stress when opening/closing the drain.

[OldRanch]

What a score! I don't fault you one bit for the "find". You did everything you could and in the end saved a nice piece of gear from rotting outside forever.

That elbow fitting couldnt be more perfect. Dont forget to passivate once the build is done! I know you obviously know that i just thought id mention it since i just did a re- passivation of my still this weekend so its been on my mind.

[Salt Must Flow]

Mooseman what's your plan for Tri-Clamp ferrules on the top? What size for the riser and do you have any plans for a larger ferrule on top too?

The reason I ask is because you could drill a hole in the bottom of the keg, solder on a stainless weld spud and just plumb the bottom drain using a street elbow, some copper pipe, a copper adapter and a threaded ball valve.

Stainless Steel Weld Spuds have a relatively large flat portion to provide a good amount of surface area for a solid solder joint in comparison to soldering a basic fitting to a flat surface.

Plumbed bottom drain. Just for fun, I even soldered the threaded portion to the weld spud.

Here's a view from the interior:

I like cutting the brim off along the front of the keg so I can keep the handles rather than flipping the keg upside down. I think the handles are convenient. If you intend to install a relatively large Tri-Clamp ferrule anywhere on top, it would allow you better access to the interior and to cut away and remove that internal portion of that keg.

[MooseMan]

What a score! I don't fault you one bit for the "find". You did everything you could and in the end saved a nice piece of gear from rotting outside forever.

That elbow fitting couldnt be more perfect. Dont forget to passivate once the build is done! I know you obviously know that i just thought id mention it since i just did a re- passivation of my still this weekend so its been on my mind.

Thanks OldRanch I appreciate you saying that. I'm happy that I tried all I could to ask for it.

Yeah I'll definitely re-passivate once I'm all done with the work.

[MooseMan]

Mooseman what's your plan for Tri-Clamp ferrules on the top? What size for the riser and do you have any plans for a larger ferrule on top too?

The reason I ask is because you could drill a hole in the bottom of the keg, solder on a stainless weld spud and just plumb the bottom drain using a street elbow, some copper pipe, a copper adapter and a threaded ball valve.

Stainless Steel Weld Spuds have a relatively large flat portion to provide a good amount of surface area for a solid solder joint in comparison to soldering a basic fitting to a flat surface.
1in Stainless Weld Spud.jpg


Plumbed bottom drain. Just for fun, I even soldered the threaded portion to the weld spud.
1in Weld Spud 01.jpg


Here's a view from the interior:
Boiler Element 02.jpg


I like cutting the brim off along the front of the keg so I can keep the handles rather than flipping the keg upside down. I think the handles are convenient. If you intend to install a relatively large Tri-Clamp ferrule anywhere on top, it would allow you better access to the interior and to cut away and remove that internal portion of that keg.

Hey Salt.

If you have time have a read through from the start just so you are on the same page with me.

The decision to put a bottom drain in the keg this time is directly as a result of your PM to me earlier this year.
Same goes for the threaded bar legs to fit the castors that I'm currently trying to find.

I'm putting a 2.5" Ferrule on the keg to fit all my other parts, and the diameter of the flange on the keg interferes with this, hence the need to flip it unless I get clever. (Which I could if I really tried, using a bit of copper and ingenuity)

The 35mm elbow just fits nicely with a step machined in.

[Salt Must Flow]

Mooseman what's your plan for Tri-Clamp ferrules on the top? What size for the riser and do you have any plans for a larger ferrule on top too?

The reason I ask is because you could drill a hole in the bottom of the keg, solder on a stainless weld spud and just plumb the bottom drain using a street elbow, some copper pipe, a copper adapter and a threaded ball valve.

Stainless Steel Weld Spuds have a relatively large flat portion to provide a good amount of surface area for a solid solder joint in comparison to soldering a basic fitting to a flat surface.
1in Stainless Weld Spud.jpg


Plumbed bottom drain. Just for fun, I even soldered the threaded portion to the weld spud.
1in Weld Spud 01.jpg


Here's a view from the interior:
Boiler Element 02.jpg


I like cutting the brim off along the front of the keg so I can keep the handles rather than flipping the keg upside down. I think the handles are convenient. If you intend to install a relatively large Tri-Clamp ferrule anywhere on top, it would allow you better access to the interior and to cut away and remove that internal portion of that keg.

Hey Salt.

If you have time have a read through from the start just so you are on the same page with me.

The decision to put a bottom drain in the keg this time is directly as a result of your PM to me earlier this year.
Same goes for the threaded bar legs to fit the castors that I'm currently trying to find.

I'm putting a 2.5" Ferrule on the keg to fit all my other parts, and the diameter of the flange on the keg interferes with this, hence the need to flip it unless I get clever. (Which I could if I really tried, using a bit of copper and ingenuity)

The 35mm elbow just fits nicely with a step machined in.

I guess my point was that you could not flip the keg upside down if you don't want to. I like leaving the handles. That fitting on the top of the keg could be cut/removed along with that internal component and replaced with your 2-1/2" ferrule. A bottom drain is very easy with just a few fittings.

[MooseMan]

Finally I've had time to pick this back up.

Had back to back illnesses over Xmas and beyond and, combined with the relentless rain all winter in the UK, and several other things that had to be prioritised, I had no enthusiasm or opportunity to do much with it.

So this is where I am right now.

I've drilled all the holes and tidied up the edges, I've cut out a section of the chimb to accommodate the larger port, I've cut off the spear flange and enlarged the hole to suit my 2.5" pipework, and I cut away that cast section inside the top.

I've decided not to flip it, due mainly to SMF's input earlier the the thread, so the base just has a drain.
I've also decided that one element at 6kw is enough. 3x loops wired separately at 2kw each.

Biggest change is, after 2 failed attempts (The kit I have just cannot reach high enough temps for silver brazing) to braze the first fitting on, I've decided to take it to my friend in the garage and have it tigged. I'll soft solder the copper drain pipework as that's something I can do.

Couple of progress pics.

Keg flange cut off, cast section still in place.

Cast section coming out

Gone

Chimb cut away

Drain

[Salt Must Flow]

Drain

Is that pic from the interior of the keg? It looks like you annealed copper pipe, flared it and shaped a flat flange to solder to the keg. If so, that's a really good idea! It eliminated the cost of a threaded fitting to solder to the underside of the keg as well as a threaded copper adapter.

[MooseMan]

Yeah that's exactly what it is salt.
Your suggestion about not flipping the keg and adding a drain got the grey matter working.
I wanted to reduce the risk that my crappy soldering could give way and dump my boiler contents.

This is what the drain assembly will look like, so other than 28mm pipe I'll only need an elbow and the valve.
I'll also add a copper strap from the valve to the keg wall to reduce stress on the solder joint.

[MooseMan]

Got a bit more done now too.

Element location.

Top centre hole, flange removed, cast section removed and cleaned up.

Fill port/cleaning port

[Wildcats]

Nice tidy work. I like the way you have the drain started. Cheer's

[MooseMan]

Nice tidy work. I like the way you have the drain started. Cheer's

Thanks man.
I'll update again once I have the welding done, just need to get hold of some castors so I know what diameter threaded bar to put on for legs.

[MooseMan]

Got some 200kg rated castors, 10mm bar and jointing nuts.

Off to the welder on Friday!

[Bolverk]

If it's not too late I'd recommend doing a 6" fill/cleaning port... disregard if you have really skinny arms.

[Swedish Pride]

I really don't need a 100 l boiler, 50 is just fine.
Having said that, if you just kick that spare 100l keg into the sea I'll pick it up when it land here and then it be rude not to use it.

This is a cool build, don't see to many of the 100l boilers about

[MooseMan]

If it's not too late I'd recommend doing a 6" fill/cleaning port... disregard if you have really skinny arms.

Hahaha! Have a read through the first page Bolverk!

[MooseMan]

I really don't need a 100 l boiler, 50 is just fine.
Having said that, if you just kick that spare 100l keg into the sea I'll pick it up when it land here and then it be rude not to use it.

This is a cool build, don't see to many of the 100l boilers about

I'll write your name on it, surely it will arrive promptly then, no?

Thanks SP, I'm really looking forward to being able to do big strips with this thing.
And with all the useful upgrades, suggested by and inspired by some of the guys here, to my initial keg boiler it's gonna be a pleasure to use.

[Swedish Pride]

That's the beauty of it, a 20kg/ 80 l ferment stripped out in one go with ample headspace, can't hate that

[venkman]

This thing is coming along nicely, Moose! I've had my eyes peeled for a keg that large and I'm not even sure if it's a thing here in the States. My friend is a beer rep and works for different breweries, I've had him hound-dogging for me. So far, no dice.

[Bradster68]

I'm super jealous moose. Iv got the copper I need. Just need the keg,and there's absolutely nothing in my area.im ready for a VM reflux for my neutral. Nice build and lots of info for me in this thread

[MooseMan]

Still waiting for the welder to finish but I got the flying leads connected to my element.
Two of them will be on switches from individual 16a breakers and the third will be plugged into a voltage controller for fine power control from 0 to 2kw.

I tested the live and neutral pins on them all and got 29.2, 29.4 and 29.8ohms so the three loops are all pretty closely powered.

There's not a lot of room left under the cap with all that chunky cable.

[NorthWoodsAb]

Nice to see you getting this thing whipped into shape. I'm sure you will like it. It is nice to be able to run 80+ L of wash/beer at a time and not worry about a puke. I have a 100L boiler. But be prepared for the extra babysitting time when you fire it up.
Cheers

[Yummyrum]

Moose , those two blue plugs say “2P”
That suggests that they have no earth connection .

Does this mean that the only earth connection is when the element is plugged into the controller ?

Therefore , controller plug should always be connected first and last . ( and assuming controller is plugged into an earthed outlet ) to ensure boiler is always earthed .


EDIT :
LOL , I just realised they are the same style I’m using on my setup . ….Yup … they got earth connection .

[NormandieStill]

Moose , those two blue plugs say “2P”
That suggests that they have no earth connection .

Actually they say "2P + <Earth symbol>". Which means you can sell them pretty much anywhere that uses the European alphabet because I think the word "Phase" is used by everyone, while "Earth" varies.

[MooseMan]

Haha yeah they are all earthed, easy to mistake that though.

With my patchy electrical knowledge, no way would I wire something up with no earth connected, especially a "Wet" something!

Some of the 5a lighting ring in my house has no earth, and as a younger man I had a bump off it whilst changing a light fixture, not pleasant, and enough to teach a healthy respect for even low amps.

[NormandieStill]

Some of the 5a lighting ring in my house has no earth, and as a younger man I had a bump off it whilst changing a light fixture, not pleasant, and enough to teach a healthy respect for even low amps.

You still have a 5A lighting ring? With the round earth pins on the plugs? Awesome!

[Yummyrum]

Actually they say "2P + <Earth symbol>".

LOL , yeah , now I know what I’m looking at , I can see that now Normandie

My ability to squint is working better now than it was last night

[MooseMan]

My ability to squint is working better now than it was last night

I find I have trouble "Not" squinting when it gets late at the weekend!?