Introducing my MICRO-MINI

[micromini]

After many years of debating on the matter and many years of holding off due to cost and all the other mandatory things in life, I finally decided to do the thing that I said I wanted to do nearly 20 years ago. That simple, "huh, it'd be fun to make my own scotch some day" really stuck in the back of my mind.

I have researched it many times over the years and have even had opportunities to borrow some stainless equipment - but I knew it wasn't what I really wanted and wouldn't give me the satisfaction nor answer the question gnawing at the back of my mind all these years... "Can I do that?"

Getting older, watching certain tv shows just to fester the idea granule fermenting deep in my brain, knowing I'm looking at 10 years of aging to do it "right", minimally - I'm sort of running out of time on this rock to have but 1 shot at getting it right. The dark comedy of the whole thing; IT WOULD BE terribly hilarious to fill a quarter cask, wait 10 years and have it be truly awful.

I would sit and use 3D modeling software to model a still and then I would put each piece, dimension specific onto a flat plane so I knew I could get the right size copper sheeting. Knowing I have no tools and no experience and really not much ability. I'm a firm believer in the concept of doing it right the first time and buy it once, buy it for life. I LIKE QUALITY. I didn't really trust myself to build this apparatus and end up with what I know I truly wanted. I wanted this to be something to last generations; to be thought of as more than a still, but rather, a survival tool.

So, this past spring, I finally reached out to a builder and sent them some 3D models, really just feeling it out. After a bit of back and forth and ironing out all the details...

Please know. Before you see this:

Others have tried to talk me out of this idea. The builder tried to get me to change my mind and to do something different. Nearly declined to do the build altogether at one point in the discussion. (Was never hostile, mind you. I just had something in mind and couldn't be talked out of it.)

This past week, my idea was brought into existence. I'm in the pursuit of a simple life goal and on the way to knocking something off the bucket list!!!

- 2 gallon main boiler with 4" tri-clamp for bootlegger cap with 1" lyne arm, reduces to 1/2". thermometer port and pressure relief valve in cap.

- 2x .5 gallon thumpers with 2" tri-clamp fruit port. thermometer port.

- 1 gallon condenser with 3/4" water house attachments. ~8' 3/8" worm.

Full tri-clamps at all attachemnts. 18 gauge / 32oz sheeting

I have read these forums for years even though I was not yet a member. I've read about various builders and the risks. I read the blacklisted and avoided. I read about various buyers remorse posts and have read the opposite side of the coin as well. Here's to hoping this apparatus is everything I've been dreaming of!!!

-MicroMini

[tjsc5f]

Looks nice! What was it the builder was trying to talk you out of? Something about how small it is? Size isn't everything right?(that's what I have to keep telling myself just to get along).

[acfixer69]

What are your expectations from this.

[micromini]

Looks nice! What was it the builder was trying to talk you out of? Something about how small it is? Size isn't everything right?(that's what I have to keep telling myself just to get along).

Thanks! I'm honestly really excited to put it to work!

Yes. The practicality of a the size vs cost vs feature set vs skill set requirement / experience required to make cuts on such small runs consistently from batch to batch. The amount of time required to run it properly in regards to the volume of potential hearts produced. Many aspects of it were not "practical" for someone just starting to explore distilling. I tend to agree with much of it once we discussed all the ins and outs. I could have gotten a 10 gallon with less bells and whistles for not too much more, for example, knowing that bells and whistles can be added later down the road.

I assume, I'll go larger in the future like most people do eventually. At least enough to where a single stripping run produces about 1.5 gallons of hearts. I can then break out the Micro-Mini for a 4x product with much more efficiency.


-MicroMini

[micromini]

What are your expectations from this.

That could be viewed many ways - I think you are asking:

about 325-375ml of hearts around the 50-65% range ideally.

I plan to use it for many different spirits though, not just the singular pursuit of making an islay single malt.

I'll likely make 10 gallon ferments. Use 1.5 gallon in the main pot. .25 gallon in each thumper. Wash. Rinse. Repeat 5x.

If I didn't answer your question, I'll try again. Glad to have you along the journey!


-MicroMini

[haggy]

micromini,

Welcome to the HD forum. Hope you are successful with your new mini-still.

You probably have seen my thread on " What Two Thumpers Can Do". But if you have not, here is the URL:

viewtopic.php?p=7783827#p7783827

With your small size, I would worry about heat losses. Some good insulation on the pot and thumpers should be beneficial. Power to run the still can be less than 500 watts without heat losses.

If I can help you plan some runs and see what to expect from them, just ask.

haggy

[Saltbush Bill]

I think the time will come when you regret building a still with such a small boiler.

[micromini]

micromini,

Welcome to the HD forum. Hope you are successful with your new mini-still.

You probably have seen my thread on " What Two Thumpers Can Do". But if you have not, here is the URL:

viewtopic.php?p=7783827#p7783827

With your small size, I would worry about heat losses. Some good insulation on the pot and thumpers should be beneficial. Power to run the still can be less than 500 watts without heat losses.

If I can help you plan some runs and see what to expect from them, just ask.

haggy

Hey, Haggy! Thanks for the warm welcome and linking me to some vital information and reading.

I have theoretically considered the heat issue. One reason I went with a heavier copper even though they are so small. I have some Roxul Safe n Sound rockwool insulation. I figured if I had to, I would vacuum seal some of that and then sandwich that between two layers of Reflectix. One reason I didn't want down spouts on things is the ease of wrapping if I need to do so.

I have and induction cooking plate with good controls. It's 1200w. However, copper not being magnetic, I will be using a thin carbon steel plate on the induction top and setting the still on top of this. We'll see how that works out. However, layering like this may be far too inefficient a heat source and if so there are easy enough electric solutions / alternatives. Single unit portable kitchen burner will work fine as well.

I think like anything, it will just be a matter of learning what ever equipment I end up using, learning how the still reacts and responds to it and adjusting accordingly to stay within the proper parameters. I mean, in theory, right? How hard can it be...




-MicroMini

[micromini]

I think the time will come when you regret building a still with such a small boiler.

Hey Saltbush Bill - I think you MAY be wrong in that assumption and I convinced the folks at N.GA S Co. of the same thing.

But you may also be very correct. If so. I would see it making sense to step up to something large enough, to produce that 1.5 gallons to turn around and run through the 2 gallon double thumper. I also see great purpose in using the little thing for refining runs through maceration ie gin basket, etc etc.

I can also build a column for essential oils / hydrosol if I build it with a 4" tri clamp to attach to he boiler, giving it some new life if I do feel the need to retire it. I do see myself making a 9x very high proof spirit for the purpose of making culinary extracts.

Even if I want to do a low energy quick batch of distilled water for clean drinking/cooking water, it's not a bad tool to have around. In that sense, it's hard to speak against, having bought a tool.

At least that is what I told myself and my lady in the spring that ultimately helped me justify this decision.


-MicroMini

[Yonder]

I think you’ll have a ball and produce some rock solid results. I would say begin with a known (T ‘n T) for a couple of small runs to get the hang of it. Then, step right up, refine your process, and go to town. Good luck!

[LWTCS]

Rig looks nice.

The transitions happen fast on the small kettles. Factor that in with some of the lag the thumpers will create and it may be a bit confusing trying to get your cuts figured out. Over time you will.

Good luck.

[Bolverk]

Cool little rig

I've often thought about small setups like this to run small test batches, but for me the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze (cost wise) if it didn't produce at least a gallon of spirit at the end. So I just settled for an air still.

Hope it works out for you though, she is pretty.

[NorthWoodsAb]

Man that is a thing of beauty. Very nice workmanship building it. Best of luck with your adventures distilling.
Cheers

[OtisT]

micromini,

Welcome to the HD forum. Hope you are successful with your new mini-still.

You probably have seen my thread on " What Two Thumpers Can Do". But if you have not, here is the URL:

viewtopic.php?p=7783827#p7783827

With your small size, I would worry about heat losses. Some good insulation on the pot and thumpers should be beneficial. Power to run the still can be less than 500 watts without heat losses. The

If I can help you plan some runs and see what to expect from them, just ask.

haggy

Hey, Haggy! Thanks for the warm welcome and linking me to some vital information and reading.

I have theoretically considered the heat issue. One reason I went with a heavier copper even though they are so small. I have some Roxul Safe n Sound rockwool insulation. I figured if I had to, I would vacuum seal some of that and then sandwich that between two layers of Reflectix. One reason I didn't want down spouts on things is the ease of wrapping if I need to do so.

I have and induction cooking plate with good controls. It's 1200w. However, copper not being magnetic, I will be using a thin carbon still plate on the induction top and setting the still on top of this. We'll see how that works out. However, laying like this may be far too inefficient a heat source and if so there are easy enough electric solutions / alternatives. Single unit portable kitchen burner will work fine as well.

I think like anything, it will just be a matter of learning what ever equipment I end up using, learning how the still reacts and responds to it and adjusting accordingly to stay within the proper parameters. I mean, in theory, right? How hard can it be...



-MicroMini

Nice looking setup micro mini. Sounds like you have at least one more build project to complete; a custom stand or something to help with leveling your still.

Once you put a hotplate and diffuser plate under the boiler, everything else will need to be raised to match. If you ever want to make boiler height somewhat independent from the rest of the still, you can add a little length and a few elbows/unions to the Lynn arm connector between boiler and first thumper.

Below is an example of a that Lynn arm design where all boiler inputs/outputs are horizontal and the dual elbow Lynn arm connector allows for variable heights.

.

[AlZilla]

I have theoretically considered the heat issue. One reason I went with a heavier copper even though they are so small. I have some Roxul Safe n Sound rockwool insulation. I figured if I had to, I would vacuum seal some of that and then sandwich that between two layers of Reflectix. One reason I didn't want down spouts on things is the ease of wrapping if I need to do so.

I have and induction cooking plate with good controls. It's 1200w. However, copper not being magnetic, I will be using a thin carbon still plate on the induction top and setting the still on top of this. We'll see how that works out. However, laying like this may be far too inefficient a heat source and if so there are easy enough electric solutions / alternatives. Single unit portable kitchen burner will work fine as well.

Just zipper your winter coat closed around the boiler. Or in your case, maybe your kids winter coat. I do it with my Keggle and it works just fine.

On the induction top, I tried what you're describing with a flat bottomed stainless mash pot. I got very poor heat transfer and the plate I had just hot spotted, big time. I now cook regularly on induction tops and none of mine will produce the kind of steady, even heat you're going to want. Mine cycle at lower temps, even if I set a watt setting instead of a temperature. No doubt you have different equipment than mine and yours might work perfectly. I'll be following along.

Very pretty rig and I'd see no reason you couldn't just put a bigger boiler under it, if you wish to at some point.

Have fun with it!

[tombombadil]

Nice looking setup!

[micromini]

I think you’ll have a ball and produce some rock solid results. I would say begin with a known (T ‘n T) for a couple of small runs to get the hang of it. Then, step right up, refine your process, and go to town. Good luck!

Thanks, Yonder. The possibility of doing something for real now is a bit overwhelming, but I think you are right. If I've learned anything, I have read the first run though on fresh copper should always be a sacrificial run just to clean the system. That being the case, I'll likely just do a straight sugar wash with a high tolerance rapid yeast.

After that, to be honest, I haven't quite made up my mind. I'm actually thinking a brandy and then using the
dunder for smaller batch of sugar shine, just to make use of anything left.

It would probably be wise to go with something tried and true just to learn, but I'm aware each spirit or ingredient has it's own peculiarities it will add to the spirit. Part of learning is messing up a few times along the way.

Rig looks nice.

The transitions happen fast on the small kettles. Factor that in with some of the lag the thumpers will create and it may be a bit confusing trying to get your cuts figured out. Over time you will.

Good luck.

LWTCS, thanks for the good vibes. Yes. That's exactly what I am expecting to be the primary challenge. I have heard that tails for whatever reason cloud sight glass where heads and hearts do not. I might end up going with a 2" sight glass in the fruit ports instead of the stainless disc, if that is the case. That would be a nice visual indication as tails begin to move from the first thumper into the second thumper.

Yes. I will learn.

Cool little rig

I've often thought about small setups like this to run small test batches, but for me the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze (cost wise) if it didn't produce at least a gallon of spirit at the end. So I just settled for an air still.

Hope it works out for you though, she is pretty.

I can't wait to have it in hand. I know I'll stare a bit longer than I should!
I think that was the general concern by the builder - that via no fault of the still, I just wouldn't be content with the effort and time required for such a meager return. I really do think, even if I upgrade, I'll still end up using this micro-mini still for clean ups, refinements, mascerations, infusions, etc.

There is nothing that says the old boiler can't be made into a 2 gallon thumper and the 1/2 gallon thumper into a lynne arm burp basket, etc. I think when I got to looking at the bigger picture, I really did decide these were more lab items / components that could be used accordingly inline, as needed, where needed.

Man that is a thing of beauty. Very nice workmanship building it. Best of luck with your adventures distilling.
Cheers

Hello, NorthwoodsAb! I happen to agree. I may have a bias though. Thank you for the good vibes!

Nice looking setup micro mini. Sounds like you have at least one more build project to complete; a custom stand or something to help with leveling your still.

Once you put a hotplate and diffuser plate under the boiler, everything else will need to be raised to match. If you ever want to make boiler height somewhat independent from the rest of the still, you can add a little length and a few elbows/unions to the Lynn arm connector between boiler and first thumper.

Below is an example of a that Lynn arm design where all boiler inputs/outputs are horizontal and the dual elbow Lynn arm connector allows for variable heights.

CD20B802-23D8-42F1-BF69-4C31DAAD379D.jpeg

Indeed. You are not wrong! I figure I can do that while the first run ferments. Use that anticipatory energy for something purposeful.

I've changed a hot water heater or few in my day. I'm not a complete stranger to solder for electronics either. Copper is easier by far. I figure I will try my hand at creating a bypass arm that allows a bit more control. Perhaps a different/custom line to go from lyne arm to worm for stripping runs, etc.

There will be lots of little projects along the way - and ways to refine the apparatus to refine the process. Part of what has drawn me to the craft, is the process.

Just zipper your winter coat closed around the boiler. Or in your case, maybe your kids winter coat. I do it with my Keggle and it works just fine.

On the induction top, I tried what you're describing with a flat bottomed stainless mash pot. I got very poor heat transfer and the plate I had just hot spotted, big time. I now cook regularly on induction tops and none of mine will produce the kind of steady, even heat you're going to want. Mine cycle at lower temps, even if I set a watt setting instead of a temperature. No doubt you have different equipment than mine and yours might work perfectly. I'll be following along.

Very pretty rig and I'd see no reason you couldn't just put a bigger boiler under it, if you wish to at some point.

Have fun with it!

Hey, AlZilla! Thanks for the pointers. I do have a couple of work coats - NO KIDS. LOL.
I have mentally accepted the induction top will likely NOT work as well as I hope. It's just one of those I have it already so I'll give it a try sort of approaches.

Thanks for the good vibes and for making me feel better about my purchase by saying nice things about her...

Nice looking setup!

Thanks, tombonbadil! Appreciate you stopping by with some kind words!

--------------

Today - should be the day she arrives. I'm giddy with excitement! At this point in the process....New equipment. New distiller. New to fermenting. VERY MUCH A NOOB here.

This will be the only time in my entire life, I have EVER attempt to breach a new hobby, while actually having THE BEST OF THE BEST to start with. I've always had to scrape to get by. I've always had to rig something up. I've always had to adjust and make do and figure out a way without. I've always had to do more and find a way to do it better - with less. I imagine there are MANY people who understand what I'm talking about.

I'm open to criticism. I'm open to mockery. I'm okay with being laughed at and told I'm wrong. It will ALWAYS make me look internally, back to the SOP, back to the science - to understand how to improve, how to progress, how to get it right. I like competition but not because I care to win or even want recognition. My goal is to best myself - every run - and I have high standards.

I really hope to find some mentors on this forum that can tolerate my personality - drive me to hone in the craft and perfect my processes so I can produce increasingly better spirits. I hope to find a bit of community - while doing something that is outlaw in it's nature, so that my be a bit foolish on my part. None the less, I'm here to learn and share what I figure out along the way.

I'll have to take unboxing photos when she does arrive.


-MicroMini

[micromini]

It arrived. I have set it up in striping mode and spirit run mode to get a feel for it. If I'm being FULLY honest. There are 2 things I'm not 11O% happy about. Same issue. 2 places. A bit of solder over run in two different places I'd prefer be a bit cleaner. Nothing I can't touch up myself with some careful attention. However, there are other things, that I am very happy about. Extras that I didn't expect and a build quality that simply just goes beyond outstanding.

I do agree with other posters. Seems to have been sent in a rough state, intentionally disregarded "NON-COMMERCIAL / not instantly operable" mode. So much so, there was even residual water inside the vessels from cleaning the polish off. There are copper fragments and there are shavings that are very fine within the edges of nearly every vessel. I honestly, think this is no big deal. I don't expect anyone to ever clean as well as I do or to care about something that is mine as much as I will. Even if it WAS sent in a perfect ready to operate state, I'd still be following protocols and cleaning / sanitizing / being neurotic about the apparatus I was going to soon use to place things inside my body.

That's NOT criticism. That's just me being honest. In all fairness. The still and all parts / components are actually, MUCH better than I'd have ever imagined. I could NOT have done as good a job myself. I'm beyond thrilled. There are no rough edges. No potential to cut myself on anything. It's all extremely clean and precise.

So. Who wants to take the time to hold my hand. I know - vinegar run then a sac run. If someone could point me in the direction of - proper still care and upkeep and materials and supplies to order / stock up on, when it comes to apparatus maintenance.

Time to take this serious.


-MicroMini

[micromini]

I think I'm in love. This thing is TOO cool. I really am beyond pleased.

After doing some serious hand cleaning, light scrubbing, lots of rinsing - I'm fairly confident I have gotten any loose metal shavings or solder that remained in the corners or along edges. I'm confident any flux or polish has been fully removed. I am to the 50 /50 vinegar steam stage of the cleaning process.

She will see her first bit of heat this evening!


-MicroMini

[Yummyrum]

Great . The moment that vinegar run finishes , pull it all apart and rinse it out with water …. Lots of it . Otherwise you will have Copper Acetate crystals start forming on the fresh copper .

Then , Immediately do a sacrificial run to season the fresh copper . Now , don’t clean it again . It is done and ready for business .

[micromini]

Hey, Yummyrum! Thanks for chiming in.

I was thinking of the 50/50 water/vinegar run. Then a a 30 minute soak in 1 tablespoon citric acid per gallon of water. Was going to put a couple of glass air stones and an air pump in the citric acid solution to create some bubbles / movement in the water and over the surfaces.

Then I was going to fully dry and do the sacrificial run. Am I overthinking it? I was thinking it was a 3 step initial SOP.


-MicroMini

[SW_Shiner]

The soak in citric acid is maybe a bit over the top, but i dont think it will hurt. What i do with new parts is my vinegar run, then i rinse well with water and place it into my sacrificial wash for a few hour, usually overnight ( I put it in before going to bed, then pull it out and rinse then run first thing in the morning).

Biggest thing that many newbie do that's unnecessary, is cleaning with citric acid or vinegar too often. Just make sure its rinsed with water and left somewhere it can dry easily without and stagnant water. Should last many years before its need a thorough clean again. Similar to a cast iron pan, you dont want to be scrubbing it back and have to re-season it every time you use it.

[AlZilla]

I have a thought - boil some water in it first to test out that induction setup. If it gives you fits, you won't have a boiler full of vinegar mix to dump out.

It occurs to me that you could get a 5 or 8 gallon stainless boiler and bypass the thumpers for stripping and then reconfigure it to stock for the spirit runs. The proportions should work out well.

[AndrewNGSTILLCO]

Can't wait to see how you like it!

[micromini]

The soak in citric acid is maybe a bit over the top, but i dont think it will hurt. What i do with new parts is my vinegar run, then i rinse well with water and place it into my sacrificial wash for a few hour, usually overnight ( I put it in before going to bed, then pull it out and rinse then run first thing in the morning).

Biggest thing that many newbie do that's unnecessary, is cleaning with citric acid or vinegar too often. Just make sure its rinsed with water and left somewhere it can dry easily without and stagnant water. Should last many years before its need a thorough clean again. Similar to a cast iron pan, you dont want to be scrubbing it back and have to re-season it every time you use it.

Hey, SW_Shiner - Noted. I appreciate the advice and insight. I have to wonder. What about between different styles? What if I end up running a rum wash and then want to turn around and run the corn wash next. Do I need to worry about "tainting" it by carry over? Should I just do a sugar wash to sort of reset it more or less if switching styles?

I haven't actually taken the time or made up my mind on how to clean it yet. BUT - that's noted. I plan to keep her in fairly active use. There's definitely going to be another weekend hobby. I think the problem is going to be not making too much mash!

I have a thought - boil some water in it first to test out that induction setup. If it gives you fits, you won't have a boiler full of vinegar mix to dump out.

It occurs to me that you could get a 5 or 8 gallon stainless boiler and bypass the thumpers for stripping and then reconfigure it to stock for the spirit runs. The proportions should work out well.

You know what. I like that thought very much, so that is what I did. The induction did not work so I went down to Wal-Mart and grabbed a cheap open box single burner for $10. I got everything set up for a make shift water distillation run JUST to actually get a bit more familiar with the apparatus.

Can't wait to see how you like it!

I learned something else. The condenser has a slight leak in the solder just above where the worm exits the canister. It's okay. I felt like a chump anyway not having to have lifted a torch to have such an amazing mini pot still - I THINK I have solder here that is acceptable and I know I have a torch I can use. This a pin size hole that just has a slow continuous laminate flow. IF it wasn't directly by the worm and therefore a contamination risk to any distillate, it'd be irrelevant. The rest of the still is solid and tight. Ran plain water perfectly. LOL.

Simple fix. DO I need to worry about the solder that is in place getting soft and altering the entire seal or can I just lay a small bead down?

------------------------

What I really learned today - really pertains to thumper lag and what was mentioned earlier I may want to wrap them to control or minimize heat loss. I GET IT NOW. I also now understand why a steady constant heat source that you have intimate control over, is actually really key to controlling the run. This junky little electric burner is not going to cut it long term I don't think. I'll need to upgrade at some point.

The still was brought to 160 in about 35 minutes. When left on high, the burner would essentially cut off when too hot and then kick back on. I did play around and found a setting I was able to hold the water at 160-164 for a steady 15 minutes with no issue. When set back to high, the still hit 200 in about another 15 minutes.

It would seem - I could do a straight stripping run - in under 2 hours.

I had to laugh, even though the boiler was to temp, it took a steady 40 minutes for the second thumper to heat up and begin pushing water out the worm. Now keep in mind, I was heating to 212. The electric burner, couldn't hold the boiler at temp for more than about 5-7 minutes before it would trip and cool off for a bit During that 3 minute or so cool off, the main boiler only dropped to about 200. The primary thumper the same. The secondary thumper, well, it would vary from 218-220, never pushing past that, but would quickly cool down to 185-190 before heat was back on and had built up enough steam pressure to push water vapor out the worm.

I also learned, it takes about 10-11 seconds from the point of hitting temp and seeing steam in the condenser due to water at the top getting hotter, until a drip comes out the end of the worm.

By running at around 210-214, I understand how to GO SLOW and just let it produce the vapors. I never flooded the first or second thumper. They maintained volume as were filled prior to turning on the heat. I saw easily how more heat applied increased the rate of flow out the worm...

I'm going to run it with water some more actually, just to take some more accurate reads on the timing between different phases.

I know all this will change as this is water and a low wine wash will behave differently, but by watching the thermometers as they respond to the temperature and the timing and what setting to use on this cheap electric burner as it corresponds to actual temperatures in the boiler / thumpers, etc...will just have me that much more prepared. Might as well do something while I let this sugar wash ferment.


-MicroMini

[SW_Shiner]

Sometimes if running a lot of rum, some of the oils and such may build up, i havent run enough rum for it to cause me any issues. I usually just rinse well with water after draining and if needed i give it a scrub/wipe down with some feints feints that i keep aside for cleaning.


Its good that you can see whats been happening with running your still, but as you said, running with an actual wash/low wines will be different.

Also, while they can be a handy tool for a pot still, dont pay too much attention to the thermometers while running. Im sure you must have read it here or possibly even been told before, too many new people try to hold the temps steady which is not the way a pot still works.

[micromini]

I really want to play within the bastard spirits realm. I honestly don't see myself sticking to a particular style as much as blurring all the lines to create something I personally enjoy. I have a few concepts I am playing with. I really love the idea of double ferments. Use a higher tolerance yeast after a lesser amount of sugars have been converted by a more flavorful yeast. Running a second pitch on a single mash, essentially. I know this is done by some, but it's sort of what has fueled my interests and resulted in finally deciding to tackle this amazingly complex and diverse craft.

All that blah, blah, blah aside - I did mention the leak to N GA SC (on IG) and they did within about 20 minutes respond and offer to send return label and to fix/repair it. While, IT DOES NEED DONE...I'm sort of torn, personally. The condenser / worm is a true 1 of a kind - same as the cap. I HONESTLY think, there is more risk to the condenser by putting it back in the mail and then having it sent back again, than there is if I simply get some flux and the proper solder and apply some heat to it. I'm fairly certain I can do this little minor fix. Thing is - it's SOOOO PRETTY. This thing is cool. I've never owned something like this. I honestly don't think I CAN hurt it. It's a mini tank. But, I don't want to test that....LOL.

I have taken out old and reinstalled new water heaters a couple of time. I'm not completely ignorant to soldering. I honestly do feel like....even if it is a pin hole, I'd be the laughing stock of this community if I didn't try to fix it myself!!! While it may seem like it, I'm not one to just BUY something. My primary employment for much of my life was as a janitor. I never minded the work. It had an odd instant gratification that few other things provided. Enter a place dirty and gross...leave it, with reflections on surfaces. It's oddly rewarding. And well, HAVE YOU SEEN - all the amazing copper I HAVE!!!! (as a direct result of)

I know it's not much. But it's mine. I know EVERY SINGLE ONE OF YOU - understands that sentiment. I think that's why I belong here.

Sometimes if running a lot of rum, some of the oils and such may build up, i havent run enough rum for it to cause me any issues. I usually just rinse well with water after draining and if needed i give it a scrub/wipe down with some feints feints that i keep aside for cleaning.


Its good that you can see whats been happening with running your still, but as you said, running with an actual wash/low wines will be different.

Also, while they can be a handy tool for a pot still, dont pay too much attention to the thermometers while running. Im sure you must have read it here or possibly even been told before, too many new people try to hold the temps steady which is not the way a pot still works.

If I'm not mistaken, I want a very slow gradual temperature increase from basically 160-205. I'm not trying to stall out the still to get it to hang at a certain temperature as much as I want to be able to crank it to a certain temp, dial it back - and set up to collect while it eases into and across and over the thresholds.

I *think* the idea of a pot still is to create a somewhat UNREFINED spirit. Their INEFFICIENCY at creating a neutral spirit, is part of what makes them 1. archaic 2. better 3. REQUIRES...what exists in the coffee world, as a Q-Grader. That's the distillers nose - that hand oil feel of the spirit - that fine tuned human tool - THAT is what makes it an art form.

That is also why I ended up with this design, rather than a micro 6-8 tier reflux column still. I wanted rustic artisan craft historical still. I wanted BETTER than what I could buy. That could be a very foolish pursuit. There actually MIGHT BE A REASON - the standard is to age the nail polish remover in charred barrels for a significant portion of a lifetime.

I just want to learn. As I stated in my introduction - and I think many others understand and relate to this aspect of this craft - DISTILLING - IS A TRUE - QUINTESSENTIAL - AMERICAN experience.

Wrap me in a flag and pour me a snifter! LOL.

I can't wait to spend hours in front of this device...running off a 10 gallon bill - bit by bit.

My goal, starting out is to maintain a 14% mash bill. Given such, I should in theory be able to get around 26oz per stripping run if fully exhausted. 24-25 brix down to zero would be ideal if a full conversion, but I don't expect 100% conversion, so of course, I will work with the outcome. I would like to avoid adding sugar as a rule of thumb. I imagine everyone starts this way. Not everyone starts with a TINY still, in which some degree of extravagances can be allowed for, if all you are making is such small mash bills - well, there is a bit more leeway to have fun.

I don't want to make what I can buy from someone who likely will always do it better than me. I don't want a rendition of. I don't want to say, yes!, this is exactly like...

I have things I want to play with. This still, is to scale, to the point...if I decide to grow my own ingredients - beets for example - then I can certainly grow enough to produce a few 1 off bottles, just because, now I CAN. If I want to mesquite smoke those beets, in the style of agave for mezcal...errrrr hmmmm. I imagine. But what if you simply use that extracted pulp juice from that process, as the liquid base for a single malt peat smoked barley fermentation...

Now I'm just thinking too much... We all have ideas. Told you. Bastard spirits....LOL. Vodka Ingredient. Mezcal prepped. Islay grain fermented in a cachaça style fresh pressed juice from. Yes. Of course, I'd drop the pH in my second thumper to pull esters out like a Jamaican rum.

Who's with me?!!


-MicroMini

[Yummyrum]

I learned something else. The condenser has a slight leak in the solder just above where the worm exits the canister. It's okay. I felt like a chump anyway not having to have lifted a torch to have such an amazing mini pot still - I THINK I have solder here that is acceptable and I know I have a torch I can use. This a pin size hole that just has a slow continuous laminate flow. IF it wasn't directly by the worm and therefore a contamination risk to any distillate, it'd be irrelevant. The rest of the still is solid and tight. Ran plain water perfectly. LOL.

Simple fix. DO I need to worry about the solder that is in place getting soft and altering the entire seal or can I just lay a small bead down?

In my experience , you can't "just lay a small bead down" to cover the hole . ......that just means a dobblet of Seagull shit that sits on top but doesn't do SFA.

You need to rework the whole joint . That means reheat it with your torch around the exit pipe joint .... you may get lucky and the solder present will just melt and flow filling the pin hole . Worst case , you'll need to add a bit more solder .

Important things to think about . The worm is thicker copper and there is a lot of it to soak up the heat . The flake copper is thinner .
When soldering such things , it is important to distribute the flame so that equalish heat is on both sides of the joint .
I would send most heat to the worm

[Tōtōchtin]

Might read up on fermenting 14% mash for a lower % and reading on essential oils and cleaning. I'll bet if you like gins and oils you will dedicate this still for that. It is pretty.
Tōtō

[micromini]

I learned something else. The condenser has a slight leak in the solder just above where the worm exits the canister. It's okay. I felt like a chump anyway not having to have lifted a torch to have such an amazing mini pot still - I THINK I have solder here that is acceptable and I know I have a torch I can use. This a pin size hole that just has a slow continuous laminate flow. IF it wasn't directly by the worm and therefore a contamination risk to any distillate, it'd be irrelevant. The rest of the still is solid and tight. Ran plain water perfectly. LOL.

Simple fix. DO I need to worry about the solder that is in place getting soft and altering the entire seal or can I just lay a small bead down?

In my experience , you can't "just lay a small bead down" to cover the hole . ......that just means a dobblet of Seagull shit that sits on top but doesn't do SFA.

You need to rework the whole joint . That means reheat it with your torch around the exit pipe joint .... you may get lucky and the solder present will just melt and flow filling the pin hole . Worst case , you'll need to add a bit more solder.

Important things to think about . The worm is thicker copper and there is a lot of it to soak up the heat . The flake copper is thinner .
When soldering such things , it is important to distribute the flame so that equalish heat is on both sides of the joint .
I would send most heat to the worm

So this was all REALLY excellent advice. I put a bit of flux and HOPED it would just slowly bead over, but nope. There was enough tension on the worm that it moved about a cm causing the previous solder to sink, but NOT fall completely though. This actually DID seal the tiny pinhole, but I didn't like the look. So I applied a bit more flux, heating the can and paying attention to the worm making sure not to get it so hot the color changed - was able to get the solder to flow around the joint almost PERFECTLY looking like a factory seal, and then I got excited and pulled the solder across the flame and dropped a blob on the can.... DOH.

I thought to sand for about 2 seconds and saw the scratching and decided the blob was worth the character and the memory.

Might read up on fermenting 14% mash for a lower % and reading on essential oils and cleaning. I'll bet if you like gins and oils you will dedicate this still for that. It is pretty.
Tōtō

Thanks Tōtōchtin! It is for sure pretty.

I'm Not a HUGE fan of juniper, but I do love botanicals and aromatics and certainly intend to do mascerations with high proof multiply refined neutral spirits.

I'll likely start running some straight corn mashes with various pure fruit concentrates (58-63 brix) in place of sugar to up the mash to around 24-25 brix or around 14% potential abv. Will likely use a high tolerance yeast like EC-1118.


-MicroMini