15/5 Keg Build

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Thanks for the additional info Mooseman. You've convinced me, I'm not going to add anything to the water jacket or inside. Is there ever a point, say you're working with a shorter Liebig, when that stuff would be advantageous to add or is it never needed, you just have to run slower? Also, do you guys think a 5' Liebig on a 15 gallon pot is overkill?

[Yummyrum]

Also, do you guys think a 5' Liebig on a 15 gallon pot overkill?

Nope …. But then mine does have a spiral wire wrap in the water jacket . …. BTW it’s a close fit …. and crimps on the inner pipe as well .

[MooseMan]

I think that if your Liebig is a little short and running at it's max condensing power, then you would be pushing as much water through it as possible, so in that scenario with high flow rates the spiral/baffles/crimps would surely help to agitate the water flow and possibly help bump the efficiency. I don't know this though.

It's just safer to make it longer!
Too long has only one downside really, it's ungainly to handle and store!?

[Tōtōchtin]

I have a 4' of 1 1/2" over a 1" pipe. I added strips of cut up copper pipe from the 1". I sliced the pipe in thirds so they were about 7/16" x 1.5" . I then soldered them around the pipe. As I slide the 1" into the other I pulled the tangs up until they scraped their way into the pipe. I figured this added more contact and definitely scattered the water flow. I have never used it but I loaned it to a distiller who had 9k watts in 100 lt boiler and he said it worked fine. I don't know if he was stripping or not.
Tōtō
Edit: After reading this, to me it reads like I just soldered a few of the pieces on. I probably have about 50 pieces soldered onto the 1" pipe.

[still_stirrin]

I like the upper ring for stability when hose cleaning and draining. I insulate the top of my kegs (including keggle mash tun) and the ring works great to hold that insulation in place. The upper ring doesn't impede impede work. Lastly, I place a square of plywood on top of a keg and stack a second keg on top for space efficiency.

Work with them with the rings for a time and if you don't like them, cut 'em down.

+1 TB.
ss

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Thanks for all the replies and help guys. I'm trying to soak it all up and make some intelligent decisions.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

So, I finally had a chance to start digging through my parts and mocking stuff up last night and realized I have the wrong 2" to 3/4" reducers. Turns out the only ones available we're the same diameter as the 2" pipe, so I'll need a coupling of some sort. I was thinking about that last night and thought for a few dollars more, I could do an elbow instead of a coupling and gain the volume of the elbow bend in 2" instead of 3/4". What do you guys think? Is there any reason the 2" elbows wouldn't be beneficial? In my head that's just increasing the volume of the column and the thumper head. That's not a bad thing, right? I did a quick CAD "sketch" last night to see if everything would fit and illustrate my question to you guys.

[Tōtōchtin]

I used triclamps and bought a bunch of 2" copper elbows. I made a few sections using 2" pipe all the way. That way I can play with the angles up or down on my lyne arms. This also always easy hookup to the thumper. The circle with the half line thru it, what is it?
I bought my elbows here, at the time they were the cheapest.
Coppertubingsales.com

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

So, you're saying the more 2" I can get in line the better?

The circle with the half line thru it, what is it?

It's a thermometer that came with one of the DIY kits I got to start collecting parts. I'll probably put it inline just for curiosity's sake.

I used triclamps and bought a bunch of 2" copper elbows.

I'm using tri clamps on the 2" and unions on the 3/4", kinda planning on setting it like you suggested for pot, thumper, condenser adjustability.

I bought my elbows here,st the time they were the cheapest.
Coppertubingsales.com

Thanks for the link. I have a good friend that owns a plumbing company, and I bartered some CAD work for what I need. I'll keep the link handy though, in case something happens to my connection.

[Tōtōchtin]

Those are good friends to have.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Those are good friends to have.

I would totally agree!

[zach]

I like the CAD sketches. Just one suggestion. If you run the thumper with solids, I would put the sight glass in the riser above the thumper. There is potential if you run too hard or with a level too high for a puke which would push solids into the condenser. Having a visual indicator could prevent an overpressure situation.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I like the CAD sketches. Just one suggestion. If you run the thumper with solids, I would put the sight glass in the riser above the thumper. There is potential if you run too hard or with a level too high for a puke which would push solids into the condenser. Having a visual indicator could prevent an overpressure situation.

I like that idea, I might snag another one and have one in the column and one in the thumper cap.

[AlZilla]

Well, since we're spending your money, why not switch the thumper head to the style where you use a TEE instead of an elbow and feed the line from the boiler through the TEE? It saves a little fabrication and real estate on the thumper head.

Then ditch the Liebig altogether, get some plates from Twisted Brick and make a shotgun? It'll blow the Liebig away, be shorter (less unwieldy) and handle the extra power when you decide you need 5500 watts.

Just spending your money ...

EDIT - Wait, I looked back and see you're running propane. So, you'll be able to throw more heat at the shotgun than the Liebig.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Just spending your money ...

Thanks for the input and I may eventually head that direction. I have actually already talked to Twisted about one of his shotguns, there is definitely one in my future.

The main reason I don't throw a ton of cash at it is that I've had a hell of a year, including open heart surgery and the budget won't take a big hit. I have been able to barter and use connections for most of my stuff, I did a little CAD work for a buddy and got to rummage his plumbing shop. I have a brewer buddy that got me a great deal on my kegs, another good friend is doing my stainless fab. So I'm a little limited on what I can do right now, I'm determined to get started though, so this is the way to do it right now.

I'm 99% sure this is just my starter set, I love science, I love copper work and good booze ain't bad either.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

So, as you guys may have noticed by now, I'm working every angle for supplies. Well, I just stopped by a large construction site near where I work and asked one of the plumbers that was by his truck about scrap 2" copper and if he had any small pieces he could sell. You would have though I asked him for his left leg! There were two 10' x 2" sticks on his rack and 10 different pieces I could see in the truck, all I got was a MEAN stare and a side-to-side head movement.

[Twisted Brick]

all I got was a MEAN stare and a side-to-side head movement.

Ya never know, Rusty. He coulda already had the copper sold to a fence in order to satisfy a growing nasty habit...

I started into this hobby with gifted 'half' sticks of 3" and 2" copper. Times are definitely a changin'!

Keep at it, sir. Your approach utilizing a keg and tri-clamped copper is very sweet and will yield a damn fine product down the road.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Keep at it, sir. Your approach utilizing a keg and tri-clamped copper is very sweet and will yield a damn fine product down the road.

You know it, next guy might say yes! Thanks for the encouraging words too.

[MooseMan]

I'll echo that, stay at it and you'll get lucky.

I'm a patient, tenacious but pretty friendly (The wife says cheeky) and helpful type and I've found that making friends wherever and however you can, brings nice surprises to your door when you least expect them.
Keep on asking, and you'll get lucky.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I'll echo that, stay at it and you'll get lucky.

I agree, I'm definitely going to stay at it and it'll all work out. It's something I wanted to try for 40+ years, I'm determined at this point to make it happen. If I can have something together to run by the time the weather cools off, I'll be happy.

I told that old boy, "thanks anyway, have great rest of your day", I think he kinda growled as I dove off. LOL I think Twisted's theory may have some merit.

I technically have all the 2" pipe I need to get started with assembly, but since there was so much just "laying" around his truck I figured, hey, what would it hurt to ask. At this point, I think I'm only short two 2" elbows and a few 3/4" fittings I didn't think about earlier. I can probably grab what I need from my friend or the Depot. The plan for this weekend is to assemble my Liebig and if everything lines up, we're going to do the stainless work this weekend.

OH, I FORGOT TO TELL YOU GUYS! My brewer friend is giving me this 14-gallon fast fermenter. I hung out with him on Monday and he surprised me with it. Should be the perfect size fermenter for my pot and the price is right! https://a.co/d/a3lgC0O

[AlZilla]

I love my Fast Fermenter. Be careful not to scratch the inside as you're working in it. Very easy to harvest and save your yeast.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I love my Fast Fermenter. Be careful not to scratch the inside as you're working in it. Very easy to harvest an save your yeast.

I've got a big ole 20 gallon stainless pot I'm going to use to mash in, so that will take most of the mixing. Is it so soft that I can't use a wooden paddle? Is there a need to stir very much once the mash/wash is in the fermenter?

I have one 4' x 6" purple heart board left from a butcher block build that I've carrying around for years. My plan is to turn it into my mash paddle. Will that work or should I look for a silicone paddle or something?

I hope we're not wandering too far off topic, it's still build related right?

[AlZilla]

I love my Fast Fermenter. Be careful not to scratch the inside as you're working in it. Very easy to harvest an save your yeast.

I've got a big ole 20 gallon stainless pot I'm going to use to mash in, so that will take most of the mixing. Is it so soft that I can't use a wooden paddle? Is there a need to stir very much once the mash/wash is in the fermenter?

I have one 4' x 6" purple heart board left from a butcher block build that I've carrying around for years. My plan is to turn it into my mash paddle. Will that work or should I look for a silicone paddle or something?

I hope we're not wandering too far off topic, it's still build related right?

No, it's not soft or anything out of the ordinary. Plastic in general you want to keep anything with a sharp edge away. Scratch it and it can harbor nasties. Probably more of a problem with things that are going to ferment a long time. Just a best practice. As far as needing frequent stirring, that's really more a function of what you're fermenting. I would keep the board out of it but you could probably use it with caution. Or a long plastic spoon from your local homebrew supplier is what works for me.

Myself, I use a paint strainer bag (5 gallons), put whatever I'm fermenting in the bag and tie it off. If it needs any agitating, I just uncap it, reach in and flop it around. The more well-heeled among us will use brew bags. Hardware store 5 gallon paint strainers work just fine.

Regarding off-topic? It's your topic, my friend. You can take it anywhere you want as far as I'm concerned.

[acfixer69]

I love my Fast Fermenter. Be careful not to scratch the inside as you're working in it. Very easy to harvest an save your yeast.

I've got a big ole 20 gallon stainless pot I'm going to use to mash in, so that will take most of the mixing. Is it so soft that I can't use a wooden paddle? Is there a need to stir very much once the mash/wash is in the fermenter?

I have one 4' x 6" purple heart board left from a butcher block build that I've carrying around for years. My plan is to turn it into my mash paddle. Will that work or should I look for a silicone paddle or something?

I hope we're not wandering too far off topic, it's still build related right?

No, it's not soft or anything out of the ordinary. Plastic in general you want to keep anything with a sharp edge away. Scratch it and it can harbor nasties. Probably more of a problem with things that are going to ferment a long time. Just a best practice. As far as needing frequent stirring, that's really more a function of what you're fermenting. I would keep the board out of it but you could probably use it with caution. Or a long plastic spoon from your local homebrew supplier is what works for me.

Myself, I use a paint strainer bag (5 gallons), put whatever I'm fermenting in the bag and tie it off. If it needs any agitating, I just uncap it, reach in and flop it around. The more well-heeled among us will use brew bags. Hardware store 5 gallon paint strainers work just fine.

Regarding off-topic? It's your topic, my friend. You can take it anywhere you want as far as I'm concerned.

It maybe as far as you are concerned but not forum rules. Get back to construction or it will be locked.
We are not the face book chat style format. Take it to face book if that is what you want to do.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Or a long plastic spoon from your local homebrew supplier is what works for me.

Myself, I use a paint strainer bag (5 gallons), put whatever I'm fermenting in the bag and tie it off. If it needs any agitating, I just uncap it, reach in and flop it around. The more well-heeled among us will use brew bags. Hardware store 5 gallon paint strainers work just fine.

Regarding off-topic? It's your topic, my friend. You can take it anywhere you want as far as I'm concerned.

Great tips AlZilla, thanks!

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

It maybe as far as you are concerned but not forum rules. Get back to construction or it will be locked.
We are not the face book chat style format. Take it to face book if that is what you want to do.

Back to the build then, I don't want my build thread locked.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I used triclamps and bought a bunch of 2" copper elbows. I made a few sections using 2" pipe all the way. That way I can play with the angles up or down on my lyne arms. This also always easy hookup to the thumper.

Tōtōchtin this is kinda what you're talking about to build in the adjustability, right? This would be looking at it from above in plan view.

[Tōtōchtin]

Some people are just dicks, that need to get out more.
Tōtō

[acfixer69]

Some people are just dicks, that need to get out more.
Tōtō

Are you directing that to me.?

[Twisted Brick]

Nice drawings, Rusty. The design using ‘hinged’ 90’s has been around forever and invaluable when adjusting to accommodate individual vessel heights.