Shottie build

[Reefer1]

Just wandering folks, do we need another Shottie build posting, ??? I am just in the process of building one to upgrade my leibig that struggles to cool when stripping.
I am half way through the build just waiting on some 42mm tube to arrive.
I know disk space is at a premium i don't wanna double up the same subject.

[Salt Must Flow]

Shotgun builds are are always cool to see. Everyone seems to do something differently and that's what's cool about them.

[acfixer69]

Bring it on. We love the building information that is learned by many newbs watching.

[SW_Shiner]

Build threads are great no matter what they are about. Every one builds things a little bit differently so they are great places to spark new ideas of how to achieve results. Plus, we all like seeing pics of others parts and progress.

[MooseMan]

Yes start a build thread on it and go through your process Reefer.

With lots and lots of pics!

[Sporacle]

100% we need more build threads, do it in stages Reefer that way if you miss something or someone has another way to do something everyone learns
With Moose on the plenty of pics, you might think they are boring but as a guide for people who build after you they are invaluable

[Saltbush Bill]

The more build threads the better, it might also encourage others to build. People who may otherwise buy some of the other garbage that is out there for sale.

[shadylane]

Hell, yes build a shottie and post pic's.
Lately, there's been too much blather and a dearth of builds.

[Reefer1]

Rightiho will do.
Just got my 42mm copper today so few days i will be done, hopefully, i will post some decent pics and comentary.

Good evening to you all

[shadylane]

I'm assuming the 42mm copper is for the jacket.
What size and number of vapor tubes are you planning on?

Here's a 3 barreled shottie I build awhile back. Maybe you can get some ideas from it.
viewtopic.php?t=49639

[Reefer1]

Sorry i posted to the wrong thread Shady
Ye 42 mm is the outer tube.
I have finished the build today so i will post the pics soon, and comentary.

[Reefer1]

The core exchanger has 2x15mm and 2x8mm 25" tubes
I just used what tube i had kicking around in my shed.
I dont know if mixing tube sizes is recommended but hey its done now.
Lol

[Reefer1]

My goal was to double the cooling capacity of my liebig wich struggles to cool when running full belt stripping product was coming out too hot for me, also i got a bit bored lol
Here go's
Part 1
cut tubing, create flat copper plates and silver solder the core tubes onto the end plates.
As i didnt have any plate, i used a short piece of 28mm tube cut longways, spread the tube out gently and hammered it flat, did this for both ends.

Mark a 40mm circle on the end plates and arranged a pattern for the tubes, centre punch the centres and i used a cone drill to bore out the holes for the tubes, taking care to keep the holes nice and tight.so it holds together when soldering.
Next up, silver solder the tubes to the end plated,
I used johnson mathay flux coated silverflo 2mm rods and a mapp gas torch, it needs lots of heat to melt the solder. Advantage is it won't melt due to its high melt point when you use standard soft solder in the vacinity.

Next up, cut the end plates down to 40mm round so the core will slide into the 42mm jacket, this needs care taking at this point it needs to be a nice tight fit for soldering.
Once it could slide inside the tube nice and tight set the
core aside. See part 2.

[Reefer1]

Next up cut the 42mm tube to the correct length,
Wrap a piece of paper around the tube and mark it around with a pencil.

Use a hacksaw with fine teeth to cut the pipe,
Next up lay the core along side the tube and decide where you need the water jacket in and out port obviously when the core is in the jacket they need positioning between the core end plates, i had 2 brass 10mm barbed hose ends so i drilled the two ports out to suit these.
Positioned the tubes in place and silver soldered them in place.

Clean up the tube inside and out, and push the core cooling assembly into the jacket.

See part 3

[Reefer1]

Next up.
Once the core is positioned in the correct place, with the water ports positioned properly its time to solder the core in place, at this point i used standard low melt point lead free solder, as the end plates where a really good fit the solder flowed lovely around the tube, no holes or gaps repeated on the other end.
Time to preasure test the jacket, i attached my water feed and preasurised the jacket, no leaks, great.

Next up.
Make the vapour chanber end cap and lyne arm
42mm end cap, i drilled a hole large enough to take 22 to 15mm adaptor and silver soldered it in place.

I made the hole a bit too large so i used a centre punch to spread the copper back into the hole you can see that on the pic.
Then soldered the 15mm pipe into the adaptor and fitted a 15mm compression elbow that matches up with my column head.

Next up.
Place the cap on the end of the condenser tube, plenty of flux paste, wrap a wet cloth around the condenser close to where the core is soldered, this will stop it becoming desoldered, and continue to soft solder the end cap on.

Next up.
Make the drip cap exit tube, i plan not to solder this in place because i like to be able to take it apart for cleaning, plus the condenser is downwards, fluid shouldnt leak out, it should just flow straight out without flooding the cap.

I drilled a hole in the end cap near the edge of the cap and silver soldered a 8mm straight solder union in and then added the spout and soldered that in place.
That's about it, i gave it a citric acid soak for 3 hours scrubbed the hell out of it, with hot soapy water, cleaned the out side looks great.
See part 4

[Reefer1]

Some more pics,

Tools for the job

Solder and flux i used

Attached to my head

I enjoyed this build, no problems, essentially i defo. Advise silver soldering as many parts as poss. It's high melting point stops it from desoldering.
Hope this process helps others who may be thinking of havin a go at this, yes you need some engineering and metal working skill, any questions just ask, here to help.

[Sporacle]

Outstanding work mate well done

[Reefer1]

Thanks Sporacle.

[MooseMan]

Fabulous job Reefer and a great write up on it too, with plenty of nice clear images.
Just the ticket for helping others who will come along this road behind you.

[MooseMan]

Post up how it performs once you 've had a chance to put it through it's paces.

[Reefer1]

Thanks Moose. Ye, i got a 10 gal strip to do in a week or so wash is slowly working off.
Also being a different condenser, i will post strip run data and flow rates to haggy. He has my last data set from my last strip with my liebig so could be interesting to compare the two.

[Twisted Brick]

Well done, Reefer. Inspirational build.

[Reefer1]

Thanks twisted i appreciate the comments.

[NorthWoodsAb]

Nice clean job. Congrats.
Cheers

[Yummyrum]

Been watching and admiring your work Reefer .
Nicely documented build .
I’m sure your work will inspire others .

[Reefer1]

Appreciated Yums.

[Reefer1]

Thought i would update on this Shottie performance.
I hooked it up to my t500 boiler, 24" stripping column.
I stripped 2 x 5gal neut. wash back to back.
My aim was to maintain a steady 20c product out put temp, so no rectification of alc meter.
First run as a test, i ran the boiler full on 2.1 kw with 4 litres pm. Temp out put matched the input temp of 16c
Over the period of the first strip run i tweeked the flow down to around 1 litre per min maintaining below 20c output temp, down to 600ml pm maintained a steady 19 to 20c output, 2nd run, i ran the boiler at a lower Kw 1.8 and water flow down to 400ml pm and maintained 20c .
This from memory last week so might be a bit sketch.
Overall the shottie had a higher degree of controll than my liebig which works fine for spirit runs, in summer when the water temp can get to 17 -18 c it takes a lot of water per min to cool to 20c,
In a comparison between the 2 condensers the shottie was more controllable and reacted better to water flow changes than my liebig, and used less water.
What this proves i am not sure, do's cool, warm, hot output temp of the spirit make a great deal of difference ??, i don't know, maybe you guys do.
I chose 20c as a test to save me correcting my alc meter.
What is the best output temp. Any one know ???.
Overall an interesting day.
I have a spirit run scheduled all my data will be recorded and sent over to Haggy to help with the calculators.
Have a good un.

[shadylane]

I always get interested when I see a build starting with split tubing.

[Salt Must Flow]

Reefer1 curious how you intend to manage the water supply to these condensers. Will you be using a pump, well water, city water?

[Reefer1]

Shady. Ye one way to get a cheap bit of copper plate.
Worked a treat.
SMF. Regarding the water feed, to the PC , RC i am lucky i have a decent stable mains preasure, and no water meter, all the same i am concious of waste so the minimum water usage i try to maintain.
I have a hosepipe to my shed where it feeds a Y manifold where it feeds my PC and i have water regulator and needle valve for the RC.
The PC also has a control valve, i adapted a radiator valve for that.
All works well.