Mini still build - copper & stainless

[The Booze Pipe]

I'm converting a 4" carter head/gin basket into a mini still. A 500 watt element fits perfectly into the bottom 2" port, cap the upper 2" port, and attach a copper riser, lyne arm, and liebig condenser....

I went with 3/4" for the riser and condenser. The condenser is 12" in length, but I maybe should have went with about 10"

still some finishing to do. The 3/8 npt solder ends don't fit tight enough to solder for the water ports. I'll have to get those welded or try to find parts that fit.

I'll build a base for it probably some wood blocks and a way to clamp it down so its stable.

Also need a power controller if anyone has an idea.

[MooseMan]

I'm converting a 4" carter head/gin basket into a mini still. A 500 watt element fits perfectly into the bottom 2" port, cap the upper 2" port, and attach a copper riser, lyne arm, and liebig condenser....

I went with 3/4" for the riser and condenser. The condenser is 12" in length, but I maybe should have went with about 10"

still some finishing to do. The 3/8 npt solder ends don't fit tight enough to solder for the water ports. I'll have to get those welded or try to find parts that fit.

I'll build a base for it probably some wood blocks and a way to clamp it down so its stable.

Also need a power controller if anyone has an idea.

That looks awesome!
You should be able to run that 500w element from a speed controller meant for a router or similar.

When you say the fittings don't fit tight enough to solder, think ones do you mean?

[Steve Broady]

For power control, there are a lot of cheap dinner knives (edit:”dimmer knobs”) out there that can handle 500-600W, and cost ~$10. Can’t get much simpler than that, and if they work for incandescent bulbs then you know they work on a resistive load. After all, a heating element is just a really shitty light bulb.

[The Booze Pipe]

I'm converting a 4" carter head/gin basket into a mini still. A 500 watt element fits perfectly into the bottom 2" port, cap the upper 2" port, and attach a copper riser, lyne arm, and liebig condenser....

I went with 3/4" for the riser and condenser. The condenser is 12" in length, but I maybe should have went with about 10"

still some finishing to do. The 3/8 npt solder ends don't fit tight enough to solder for the water ports. I'll have to get those welded or try to find parts that fit.

I'll build a base for it probably some wood blocks and a way to clamp it down so its stable.

Also need a power controller if anyone has an idea.

That looks awesome!
You should be able to run that 500w element from a speed controller meant for a router or similar.

When you say the fittings don't fit tight enough to solder, think ones do you mean?

I was wondering about those speed/voltage regulators! I bought one for $20, so if it works that is a sweet and easy plug-n-play option

I ordered these 3/8 npt/solder end hoping they would fit into the 3/4 x 1/2 tee for a water port

[MooseMan]

That should work fine, no problem at that low wattage.

Do you have any copper or brass tubing that will fit (Maybe with a bit of filing if required) between those two, to make up the difference?
You could flare/cope them to fit closer also?
Copper will do amazing things when you anneal it.

[greggn]

there are a lot of cheap dinner knives out there that can handle 500-600W,

My god, what kind of safety gear is required to eat at your table ?

[The Booze Pipe]

electrified dinner knives??

[The Booze Pipe]

That should work fine, no problem at that low wattage.

Do you have any copper or brass tubing that will fit (Maybe with a bit of filing if required) between those two, to make up the difference?
You could flare/cope them to fit closer also?
Copper will do amazing things when you anneal it.

I appreciate the ideas! No I don't have a go-between on hand. and They fit very loose, so I don't think flaring would work. maybe I can get a coupling from the hardware store. Or I'll see if one of the local shops can weld it for a bottle of booze.

[Salt Must Flow]

I'm converting a 4" carter head/gin basket into a mini still. A 500 watt element fits perfectly into the bottom 2" port, cap the upper 2" port, and attach a copper riser, lyne arm, and liebig condenser....

I went with 3/4" for the riser and condenser. The condenser is 12" in length, but I maybe should have went with about 10"

still some finishing to do. The 3/8 npt solder ends don't fit tight enough to solder for the water ports. I'll have to get those welded or try to find parts that fit.

I'll build a base for it probably some wood blocks and a way to clamp it down so its stable.

Also need a power controller if anyone has an idea.

That looks awesome!
You should be able to run that 500w element from a speed controller meant for a router or similar.

When you say the fittings don't fit tight enough to solder, think ones do you mean?

I ordered these 3/8 npt/solder end hoping they would fit into the 3/4 x 1/2 tee for a water port

You could use a couple copper flush bushings to reduce those ports. You just need to know what the actual ID and OD needs to be to determine if one will fit. I've used them and drilled them out to make them work before. You could file them or Dremel them too if needed. I've even threaded them to use male NPT fittings.

You'll probably want to insulate that riser. 500W is not much power so I assume you'll get a lot more passive reflux if the isn't insulated.

[OtisT]

I put together a small controller for a similar 500w mini still. I use the same controller for a 1200 watt element. The controller was a 4000w box that cost $14. I put that is a small hobby box and cut up a small extension cord for the power lead. Add a few wire nuts and bob’s your uncle. Some more info on that build is in the post linked below.

Yes, you could have made that Liebig much shorter with only 500 watts input.

Otis’ Mini gin still: viewtopic.php?t=85004

[Demy]

Beautiful construction! You can easily find a small power controller, you won't have big problems with that power.

[Demy]

This is an example....it's not finished but just a few connections are enough. There are others already ready.

[Steve Broady]

there are a lot of cheap dinner knives out there that can handle 500-600W,

My god, what kind of safety gear is required to eat at your table ?

Wow, I missed that one! Sorry about that. Dimmer knobs.

[NZChris]

I use those power controllers for my small gin stills at home. Dial up what worked well previously.

I also use 12V temperature controllers to look after the condensate output temperatures from worms and Liebigs as on/off control is good enough for mini stills with appropriately sized condensers. They are great for minimizing water usage when running Off Grid and have to fill the reservoir with a bucket, but I've gotten lazy and use them at home as well. Sit back and relax, no fiddling needed.

[MooseMan]

I appreciate the ideas! No I don't have a go-between on hand. and They fit very loose, so I don't think flaring would work. maybe I can get a coupling from the hardware store. Or I'll see if one of the local shops can weld it for a bottle of booze.

You'll definitely be able to find something that will slip between the two. I recently made a Liebig for someone and didn't have any fittings to drop from 28mm to 22mm so I cut a straight 22mm coupler in half, rolled the ends of the 28mm over a little to touch the couplers and it soldered up fine.

IMG_20241125_112609_212~2.jpg (8.57 KiB) Viewed 3178 times

Crap photo sorry but it shows the coupler bridging the two pipe diameters.

Don't go getting it done by a tradie, you can easily sort that yourself and you'll be happier for it.

[Salt Must Flow]

Brilliant MooseMan

[Tammuz]

Wrap some copper around the fitting so it's a snug connection and solder in place. It's a water line only low pressure.

[The Booze Pipe]

I tracked down the coupler I needed to make these 3/8 npt parts work. Its not as low-profile as I'd like, but should work well.

[The Booze Pipe]

I was able to finished up the build yesterday! All I need to do is pickup a hose for the water inlet line/garden hose connection and it's ready to run.

[Archee72]

A Still, chainsaws and a rifle…. What more does one need

[MooseMan]

I tracked down the coupler I needed to make these 3/8 npt parts work. Its not as low-profile as I'd like, but should work well.

I use those push fit connectors and air hose for my water feed, they are brilliant.

Had to get a bit creative for the outside house connection to the 12mm air line hose, but it works.

Still is looking great man, that will be a fabulous little gin maker.

[The Booze Pipe]

I tracked down the coupler I needed to make these 3/8 npt parts work. Its not as low-profile as I'd like, but should work well.

I use those push fit connectors and air hose for my water feed, they are brilliant.

Had to get a bit creative for the outside house connection to the 12mm air line hose, but it works.

Still is looking great man, that will be a fabulous little gin maker.

Thank you MooseMan. I gave it a cleaning and ran vinegar/water yesterday. It heated up just fine, 34 minutes for 2 liters. But the output was odd and disappointing.
At max-power, at best the output was a fast drip, almost a broken stream. I'm not going to get into it too much untill I run alcohol through it as I know water acts differently.
I was able find some 3/8 poly hose for the water connections

[The Booze Pipe]

Ran alcahol through it today to finish cleaning. The output was okay, a little slow but I think it'll work.

[MooseMan]

Ran alcahol through it today to finish cleaning. The output was okay, a little slow but I think it'll work.

Mentioned to my wife I'll be topping up the gin stocks later today, and you're awesome little mini still came to mind, have you done a run with it yet?

[The Booze Pipe]

Ran alcahol through it today to finish cleaning. The output was okay, a little slow but I think it'll work.

Mentioned to my wife I'll be topping up the gin stocks later today, and you're awesome little mini still came to mind, have you done a run with it yet?

Not yet! I'm itching to play with it! I just finished a batch of neutral spirit, so I have some stock on hand now. I want to make a citrus vodka and a batch of Absinthe! I will be dreaming up some gin recipes as well. Probably something with hibiscus... or maybe a hibiscus vodka with that Butterfly Pea Flower...

[MooseMan]

Ran alcahol through it today to finish cleaning. The output was okay, a little slow but I think it'll work.

Mentioned to my wife I'll be topping up the gin stocks later today, and you're awesome little mini still came to mind, have you done a run with it yet?

Not yet! I'm itching to play with it! I just finished a batch of neutral spirit, so I have some stock on hand now. I want to make a citrus vodka and a batch of Absinthe! I will be dreaming up some gin recipes as well. Probably something with hibiscus... or maybe a hibiscus vodka with that Butterfly Pea Flower...

Sounds interesting, get it in a post when you do for sure!

I like the pea flowers and the colour change, it adds a bit of fun to making G&Ts.
I made a concentrated bottle of it in alcohol and just add a splash to any gin I want.

[The Booze Pipe]

I finally made a run of citrus vodka in this thing! It definitely has a slow output, about 20 minutes or so per pint. I'm not sure if it's underpowered or if it's in the design. I've never ran a liebig condenser in a straight vertical position, but figured it wouldn't make a difference?

[MooseMan]

That's pretty decent output for a small gin still I'd say.

I think Liebig's are more efficient when horizontal, but on that little thing it shouldn't matter much.

[The Booze Pipe]

That's pretty decent output for a small gin still I'd say.

I think Liebig's are more efficient when horizontal, but on that little thing it shouldn't matter much.

That all makes sense. The small amount of alcohol boils off quickly, and you’re left with mostly water, requiring more power to maintain the same take-off rate.
When I ran OtisT’s mini I believe he had a similar sized element that we had to turn down once at a boil. Mine, I have to run full power the whole way through.

[MooseMan]

That's pretty decent output for a small gin still I'd say.

I think Liebig's are more efficient when horizontal, but on that little thing it shouldn't matter much.

That all makes sense. The small amount of alcohol boils off quickly, and you’re left with mostly water, requiring more power to maintain the same take-off rate.
When I ran OtisT’s mini I believe he had a similar sized element that we had to turn down once at a boil. Mine, I have to run full power the whole way through.

Try insulating it a little more, that will help.
Definitely insulate the base of the boiler to the max (Wall cavity batten material works very well) as that will help radiate heat back up into the boiler contents.
I would add another layer of reflectix to the body too, and also insulate the riser right up to the top.

Any area of the still before the condenser that you can feel is radiating heat, is wasted energy that could be going into the boiler contents. Good insulation can make a surprising difference when you need every last watt.