1- 90* OR 2- 45*??

[WillieP]

Good day all,
I have done a google search and was unable to find the answer to my question.
I found a lot of interesting things, and had an enjoyable 1 1/2 hours of reading, but didn't find where this had been answered. (Please forgive me if this has been covered over and over.)

Pot still design, 2-inch copper riser...
At the top of the riser, for the first 90* bend, which method would you use if the fitting were available to you, and price wasn't a consideration?
1. Just an ordinary 90* fitting?
2. An ordinary 45* fitting to a street 45* fitting. (This would be the shortest distance between the 45* fittings. But a larger radius than option #1)
3. An ordinary 45* fitting to a length of 2 inch, to another ordinary 45* fitting. (This would allow you to spread the overall distance between the 45* fittings to whatever you would like.)

I am aware that I tend to overthink things. I also know that other than the chance of some pooling, there is probably very little actually difference in how this choice would affect the overall product coming out the PC.
I also understand that it is beneficial to taper the reduction of the vapor path as gentle as is practical. I will be going from 2 to 3/4 in several steps.

I really just wanted the opinion of those that have much more experience that I do.
Cheers,
WillieP

[SW_Shiner]

Just ordinary 90s work just fine and allow you to still tune the height at the end of the condenser. Most of the different configurations for the top of a pot still are due to the specific requirements of that still. For example, my stripping pot still head is just 1 90 bend connected to my shotgun condenser because the 2" ferrule that i use is welded in a way that makes the end of my condenser the perfect height for collecting into a large vessel on the ground. For a spirit run, i have a long extension into 2 90 bends as this allows me to easily collect into jars on the bench.

[acfixer69]

I would use 2 90's with a tri-clamp or union between them to make the angle adjustable.

[Yummyrum]

Two 2” 90°s witha clamp between for me too Acfixer
Reduce down after the second one .

w

[Saltbush Bill]

Another option for making liebig hight adjustable is to use a stainless union as in photo below.

[acfixer69]

Another option for making liebig hight adjustable is to use a stainless union as in photo below.
20240723_102603.jpg

I said union for you LOL

[MooseMan]

This is what I did for a small still to run in the house Willie.
35mm from the lid, reduced to 22mm for the condenser.
I seen to remember you wanted to keep things as simple as possible, hopefully the pictures answer your question.

17364062042342127720729534446567.jpg (11.22 KiB) Viewed 684 times

17364063941351938326166699837343.jpg (15.48 KiB) Viewed 684 times

17364064161981940786746521704226.jpg (25.08 KiB) Viewed 684 times

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I dropped to 3/4" coming out of the head then soldered in a couple of 90s and a copper union to make mine adjustable. I'm about to redo a lot of this setup and I'm going to a 2" shotgun with a couple of 2" 90s with tri clamp ferrules.

Rusty

[WillieP]

Just ordinary 90s work just fine and allow you to still tune the height at the end of the condenser. Most of the different configurations for the top of a pot still are due to the specific requirements of that still. For example, my stripping pot still head is just 1 90 bend connected to my shotgun condenser because the 2" ferrule that i use is welded in a way that makes the end of my condenser the perfect height for collecting into a large vessel on the ground. For a spirit run, i have a long extension into 2 90 bends as this allows me to easily collect into jars on the bench.

Thank you for your reply, Shiner.
From what I am hearing, any of these options will work, and it's really a matter of personal preference and what will work for each situation.
Sounds like I just need to figure out what will work best for me and stop overthinking it.
Cheers,
WillieP

[WillieP]

This is what I did for a small still to run in the house Willie.
35mm from the lid, reduced to 22mm for the condenser.
I seen to remember you wanted to keep things as simple as possible, hopefully the pictures answer your question.

17364062042342127720729534446567.jpg

17364063941351938326166699837343.jpg

17364064161981940786746521704226.jpg

Thanks MooseMan for the pictures.
The input end of my PC has half of a 1-inch copper union to a 1-inch to 3/4 inch reducer to a 3/4 inch 90. (It's 3/4 vapor path, 1-inch water jacket)
The union at the end will allow me to put it at whatever angle I need it at for collection.

This should mean that I can leave the output of the still head fixed and not need to adjustable.

Cheers,
WillieP

[WillieP]

I dropped to 3/4" coming out of the head then soldered in a couple of 90s and a copper union to make mine adjustable. I'm about to redo a lot of this setup and I'm going to a 2" shotgun with a couple of 2" 90s with tri clamp ferrules.

Weekend Setup.jpg

Rusty

Rusty,
That's a mighty fine looking outfit ya got there Mr.!!

Cheers,
WillieP

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Rusty,
That's a mighty fine looking outfit ya got there Mr.!!

Cheers,
WillieP

Well, thank you Sir, I'm mighty proud of her.

Rusty