I'm going electric!

[Chremes]

Hey all! I'm in need of some constructive criticisms.

I'm planning on converting my pot still to electricity. My still can handle a 37.5 litre charge, leaving a 12.5 litre headspace. I have purchased a "Camco 02203 2000W 120V Screw in Water Heater" element. I intend to also purchase a 1.5 inch tri clamp weldless bulkhead like this one as well as a 1.5 inch tri clamp element adapter like this one.

I want to place the hole for the bulkhead about 7 centimeters from the bottom, which will require me to have about 10 litres minimum in the still in order to submerge the element. I plan on using a SSR to control the power. I have a friend who is a master electrician and he has promised to look over all of this before I turn it on.

Do any of you wise folk out there see any problems with this? Have I missed anything?

[MooseMan]

Congrats on making the switch to electric, I think you'll like it.

Ok I need to clarify this for my own brain.
What is the tri clamp bulk head for? The lid?

And that "Element adaptor" you have linked, is just a stainless tube with a thread in one end, and an electrical cable gland on the other, so are you going to cut that off and have it welded (Brazed/soldered?) to the boiler to thread the element in?
You could get a stainless weld spud much cheaper than that with the correct thread for the element in.

[Chremes]

Ok I need to clarify this for my own brain.
What is the tri clamp bulk head for? The lid?

And that "Element adaptor" you have linked, is just a stainless tube with a thread in one end, and an electrical cable gland on the other, so are you going to cut that off and have it welded (Brazed/soldered?) to the boiler to thread the element in?
You could get a stainless weld spud much cheaper than that with the correct thread for the element in.

The bulkhead will be on the side, about 7 cm from the bottom.

The heater element screws into the that stainless tube. Have a look:

[Yummyrum]

Can you add a higher power element ?
2kw might be a bit slow for warmup and stripping a 37l wash .

[JustinNZ]

Agree with Yummy. 2000watts at 120volts will take an age to heat up 37.5L. I’ve got 2000watts on 240volts heating up 45L and I’m planning on doubling it (with a controller, mind you).

[MooseMan]

Ok I need to clarify this for my own brain.
What is the tri clamp bulk head for? The lid?

And that "Element adaptor" you have linked, is just a stainless tube with a thread in one end, and an electrical cable gland on the other, so are you going to cut that off and have it welded (Brazed/soldered?) to the boiler to thread the element in?
You could get a stainless weld spud much cheaper than that with the correct thread for the element in.

The bulkhead will be on the side, about 7 cm from the bottom.

The heater element screws into the that stainless tube. Have a look:

Ahh, I see from the video how it's meant to work now, the link doesn't show that. (And it was 06:30am when I replied... Lol)

Ok a couple of questions.
Have you bought the element and if so, can you return it? Reason is:
a) You can get elements with tri-clamp flanges built into the body instead of threads, that would cost you less overall and be more simple than that way of doing it.
b) That element is a little underpowered for a c. 40L charge as the guys have already said, so it will lead to long heat up times and long stripping times. (For example, my first boiler was a 55L keg and had double that power, my current boiler is a 100L keg and has 3x that power)

Are you able to get a tri-clamp (Or threaded if you don't mind spinning the element out when required) fitting welded/brazed/soldered to the side of boiler?
I don't know if a bulkhead fitting will be ok with an element going through it or not, because you'll have to have some sort of seal to prevent it leaking, and that seal may not be happy with the very local and very large temperature changes. I may be wrong but I don't know of anyone who doesn't have a permanently fixed element connection to the boiler. Hopefully someone who does, can jump in here.

[Saltbush Bill]

2000w element in a 37L boiler charge is going to be woefully slow to reach boiling temp, and super slow for stripping.

[Yummyrum]

2000w element in a 37L boiler charge is going to be woefully slow to reach boiling temp, and super slow for stripping.

That

[Bolverk]

9.77 gals (37L) will take about 1.5 hours to first drips.

[Steve Broady]

2000w element in a 37L boiler charge is going to be woefully slow to reach boiling temp, and super slow for stripping.

I’m assuming US practices here, but 2000W is also a bit of an odd size. There’s a reason most stuff in the US maxes out at 1800W. 120V x 15A = 1800W. So unless you KNOW that you’re on a 20A breaker, AND have the wiring and outlet rated for the same, I wouldn’t want to plug a 2000W load into the wall anywhere in the US.

[Born_Free]

Just yesterday I assembled one of these element adapters from brew hardware, very happy with it.

Just a thought but if you end up going with a larger one that isn't straight I prefer the 2" element adapter from Still Dragon.

I realize it is more money but if you can go 220V 5500W and get a GFI right from the start, if like many of us once you start down the rabbit hole you'll be happy you have the extra power.

Although a beer oriented site lots of good electrical info on the the web site from http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/parts ... r-building.

[Homebrewer11777]

I use 2x 2000 watt elements and bring 13 gallons to first drips in about 70 minutes. I also got them from brew hardware. I was able to verify I had 2 independent 20 amp circuits in my brewing area before going down this path.

Was less effort for me than installing 220V circuit and seems more than sufficient at this scale.

[Salt Must Flow]

I'd compare the overall price of that element plus the element guard to Dernord elements on Amazon. Take note of the shape of the elements there. A lot of them are 'fold back' ensure that they are more 'low watt density' than other elements that are not 'fold back'. Meaning the element has lower potential to scorch. Other elements are wavy AND fold back which makes them Ultra Low Watt Density elements.

You can certainly use an electric heating element through one of those Tri-Clamp bulkhead fittings. There are no issues doing that. I personally prefer a 2" bulkhead fitting for wavy elements. Wavy elements are a pretty tight fit even in a 2" bulkhead. I couldn't imagine trying to slide a wavy element through a 1-1/2" bulkhead.

[NZChris]

10l is a lot to need to have to cover an element. If there is a way to get it closer to the bottom, I recommend you do it.

Two elements are better than a single high powered one, especially if you blow one during a run. You only have to have power control for one of the elements.

[WithOrWithoutU2]

.... A lot of them are 'fold back' ensure that they are more 'low watt density' than other elements that are not 'fold back'. Meaning the element has lower potential to scorch. Other elements are wavy AND fold back which makes them Ultra Low Watt Density elements.

+1 on low watt density element for scorch prevention.

And as other's have said, plan for as much power as you can afford (and safely). You'll quickly regret not getting it, but never regret getting it.

[Bee]

Do any of you wise folk out there see any problems with this? Have I missed anything?

Scorching is more of a problem with electric. You won't be able to have any chunks in the wash and probably won't be able to run it very cloudy.

[quadra]

Not sure if it has been addressed but the undersized water heater element also lacks the external threads that guard will need to screw onto... the cover you have linked above is not the same as the one in the video and is intended to be used with the clawhammer heating element... I am not sure if it is compatible with a Dernod ?..have a look at the dernod element compared to what you have listed above. The stainless steel LWD ripple elements are the gold standard for good reason. I would also try to mount your element as low as possible, and of course build your system around a 240V design.

[Coyote]

I run a 15 gallon keg. In one side 4 " off the bottom is a 5500 watt wired to 220V. Now the
fun thing about this element is that I have a 220V receptacle that is wired to 120V on the wall.
Run on 220V until I get where I want to be then plug it into 120V to finish the run.
On the other side 4" off the bottom is a 5500 watt element that is wire for 120 V full time.
I plug them both in 1 - 220V & 1 -120V once I reach temp I swap the 220V into the 120V powered
220 receptacle. Easy as can be. No controllers.

Coyote

[Chremes]

Hey again everyone!

Thanks for all the stellar advice. I'm going to implement as much as I can.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to 240 volts. I rent a condominium and the only possible outlet is my oven. My oven is not easily moved and unplugged.

Right now, I'm using propane outside to do stripping runs. The weather in Calgary is mild enough, even in winter, to comfortably do a stripping run most weekends. It is my intention to continue doing stripping runs outside with propane wherever possible.

Doing spirit runs is another matter. In the dead of winter, the sun sets around 4:30 here. If I'm going to do longer than 4 hour spirit runs outside, I must wait for longer days and hope the weather is reasonable. While an hour and a half wait until first drips will certainly be annoying, it won't be nearly as annoying as sitting on tons of low wines while waiting for spring and cooperative weather.

That being said, perhaps I could add a 1500 watt hot plate that I would only use at full blast and only as long as it takes to get the charge to boiling. Alternatively, I could add a 2nd 120 volt heating element that I would also only use to heat to boiling.

Okay, so new plan...

I need to get a ferrule like this one. Can anyone tell me if the length of the ferrule is something to consider? I'm assuming that shorter is better for a heating element. Am I right?

I need to find a welder able to cut the right sized hole and weld the ferrule to the side of the boiler. If I ONLY use electricity for spirit runs, will scorching no longer be an issue? Because I could mount the ferrule much lower than 7 cm if that's the case.

I get an element like this one. I get a 2" tri-clamp, a 2" end cap, an SSR and "Bob's your uncle".

Thoughts?

[shadylane]

Here's how I've been doing it.
Drill a hole in the keg and weld on a 1 inch SS jam nut and screw the element directly into it.

[MooseMan]

What shady described is how I did my first boiler and it's still working fine.

I put 2 elements in mine and I'd recommend you do the same, being used to gas you will quickly get tired of waiting for 2kw to heat up a boiler full, 4kw is far less painful. You may even end up stripping with electric too once you have 4kw of power.

While it's at the welder, you may as well just get the second one put in, whether you go threads as above, or tri clamp flange.

Drill and prep the holes yourself, and tell him you'll do the clean up, the welder will charge less if he only has to weld.

[Salt Must Flow]

Just solder the nut to the keg. No need for welding. The NPS nut is the LEAST structural part of a boiler. Solder is very strong and plenty strong enough to attach an NPS nut.

Regardless how you attach the nut, now you have to Jerry rig an element guard to protect your connections and to grab hold of the cable so you don't pull on the connections.

[Chremes]

Just solder the nut to the keg. No need for welding. The NPS nut is the LEAST structural part of a boiler. Solder is very strong and plenty strong enough to attach an NPS nut.

Regardless how you attach the nut, now you have to Jerry rig an element guard to protect your connections and to grab hold of the cable so you don't pull on the connections.

That would greatly simplify things. Are there any special considerations when soldering food grade stainless steel?

[Salt Must Flow]

Just solder the nut to the keg. No need for welding. The NPS nut is the LEAST structural part of a boiler. Solder is very strong and plenty strong enough to attach an NPS nut.

Regardless how you attach the nut, now you have to Jerry rig an element guard to protect your connections and to grab hold of the cable so you don't pull on the connections.

That would greatly simplify things. Are there any special considerations when soldering food grade stainless steel?

Lead free silver solder is standard. Harris Stay-Clean flux is a common favorite.

[Chremes]

Just solder the nut to the keg. No need for welding. The NPS nut is the LEAST structural part of a boiler. Solder is very strong and plenty strong enough to attach an NPS nut.

Regardless how you attach the nut, now you have to Jerry rig an element guard to protect your connections and to grab hold of the cable so you don't pull on the connections.

That would greatly simplify things. Are there any special considerations when soldering food grade stainless steel?

Lead free silver solder is standard. Harris Stay-Clean flux is a common favorite.

Thank you!

[Chremes]

Oddly enough, it would appear that there is no dimension on a 1 inch stainless steel locknut that is actually 1 inch. (I'm assuming that the 1 inch refers to the internal diameter of the pipe this nut is supposed to fit on). In any case, the internal diameter of the nut is about 1 and 13/64th of an inch. So I'm thinking that a hole that is 1 and 3/8th of an inch in the side of my still should be the right size.

Am I right?

[Yummyrum]

Chremes
I have a 1” element on one of my boilers .
I soldered a 1” coupler to it .
The internal size is 30.5mm which is almost exactly the size you measured . So I recon you git the right nut there

[Chremes]

Chremes
I have a 1” element on one of my boilers .
I soldered a 1” coupler to it .
The internal size is 30.5mm which is almost exactly the size you measured . So I recon you git the right nut there

Thank you! Good to know.

But what about the hole? I could do a hole that is 1 and 1/4th inches which would be only barely larger than the hole in the nut. Is that enough or should I go with 1 and 3/8 inches?

[Yummyrum]

I just pulled out element and thread is 32mm or 1 17/64 “
So yeah 1 3/8” should be fine so long as you can centre the nut on it while soldering . 1 1/4” would also be OK . Just the bigger you go , the less solder you have under the nut

[Chremes]

I just pulled out element and thread is 32mm or 1 17/64 “
So yeah 1 3/8” should be fine so long as you can centre the nut on it while soldering . 1 1/4” would also be OK . Just the bigger you go , the less solder you have under the nut

Working with metal is very new for me. I was thinking that 1 and 1/4 might get solder into the threads. If that's not an issue though, I'm guessing that it would bond more strongly with a 1 and 1/4 inch hole.

Thanks again!