Well it worked for a while , but then , on several occasions if run at full power , when I turned down the power control , it still sent full power to the element .
Switching it off and letting it cool down a bit and it was good to go again .
I’ve been using it back on the DSPR 1 again lately . I noticed that the LED on it was dead or flickering erratically and intermittently it would start working again .
Obviously it has finally shat it’s self so I was curious what was in it .
A quick tap with a chisel and hammer on each side and the top pops off .
There were two devices screwed to the heatsink . It turns out that they had used two BTA24-800 TRIACs in parallel .
These are rated @ 25A 800v each . So even with two , it was only 50amps and not 60
It is also bad practice to parallel Triacs anyway as one will share most of the load and the other may not even trigger on .
So it was a cheap bad design .
Incidentally , it uses the MOC 3063 zero-crossing optocoupled triac driver . The black paint is an isolation barrier paint .It is not a sign of overheating .
Anyway , buyer beware . I thought I was getting a Fotek SSR but I got a very obviously bad copy . My god , how did I miss that the name Fotek was spelt wrong .
I forgot to mention , when I first bought it and placed it in the main heatsink that it was “woobly” . The heatsink plate on the SSR was not perfectly flat and there was almost 0.5mm warp on it . So I had to grind it flat on my Lannisher to get an intermit contact on the heatsink . Hate to imagine how quickly it would have died if I just slapped in some heatsink compound and screwed it down .
