Just received two 3” tubes

[Alzahra888]

IMG_7932.jpeg

Each one is 122cm (48”) long.

At the least I could just go CCVM.

I know lots of people don’t think so highly of them but others who dont do neutral more than few times a year seem to find them entirely sufficient.

I have been happy with my 2” CCVM and at the very least want to speed up those few times a year that I run it.

The passionate move to plates is well documented on this site but there has also been commentary by some who nevertheless returned to pot still mode for flavor.

I run whiskey, rum, grape brandy.

My potstill has showed no deficiency in final product quality.

I would be game however just for the fun of it to run plates. It would take me a couple years I suppose to get it done. I could very well just pick up a section or two that triclamps into another configuration.

I would very much welcome any dissuasion or encouragement.

[Thatguy1307]

I was also contemplating a CCVM or just VM controlled plated column. Notes from others here seem to say 3" may be difficult to run in that configuration. Im tempted to experiment with a few ideas. I also ran a 2" ccvm and was quite pleased with it when I wanted to pull neutral. With two 48" sections, you have enough to build both a packed column and a plated one. 3x48 is more than enough to pull azeo if you use spp or lava rock. Good luck with it!

[Tammuz]

I would go with vm climbing a ladder to adjust a coil seems useless when you compare how cheap gate valves are now. You could just buy 4 of these with disc then when you want to pack it just remove the plates. Or run the plates as a flute. Remove the column put a short riser on and then you can run you rum and whiskey as a pot still
48 inches filled with copper would be difficult to hit aezo.

[Alzahra888]

I was also contemplating a CCVM or just VM controlled plated column. Notes from others here seem to say 3" may be difficult to run in that configuration. Im tempted to experiment with a few ideas. I also ran a 2" ccvm and was quite pleased with it when I wanted to pull neutral. With two 48" sections, you have enough to build both a packed column and a plated one. 3x48 is more than enough to pull azeo if you use spp or lava rock. Good luck with it!

Thanks for the encouragement Thatguy. I too look forward to seeing where you go with this.

[Alzahra888]

I would go with vm climbing a ladder to adjust a coil seems useless when you compare how cheap gate valves are now. You could just buy 4 of these with disc then when you want to pack it just remove the plates. Or run the plates as a flute. Remove the column put a short riser on and then you can run you rum and whiskey as a pot still
48 inches filled with copper would be difficult to hit aezo.

You’re probably right. I will go have a look at vm builds as I have to confess I’m not so familiar with them. Thanks Tammuz.

[PalCabral]

I have no experience with CCVM or VM, or LM. My focus so far is pot still. I can add a dephleg to my riser and pack the rest with a bunch of mesh/packing, but I'm not interested in neutrals at the moment. However. If I would add 30cm more to the column height, currently 65cm plus the dephleg, I would distill +90% ABV, with a CM. I know that for some people purity in the distillate is everything. For me it's the opposite so probably I'm not the right person to comment. But the CCVM is very versatile.

[Alzahra888]

I have no experience with CCVM or VM, or LM. My focus so far is pot still. I can add a dephleg to my riser and pack the rest with a bunch of mesh/packing, but I'm not interested in neutrals at the moment. However. If I would add 30cm more to the column height, currently 65cm plus the dephleg, I would distill +90% ABV, with a CM. I know that for some people purity in the distillate is everything. For me it's the opposite so probably I'm not the right person to comment. But the CCVM is very versatile.

Thanks Pal. Yes I’ve got some work to do before I decide. I sure appreciate the input.

[Salt Must Flow]

With 8' of 3" pipe, you can pretty much make whatever you want. It all starts with a good plan! I always start by drawing desired configurations out to scale. Keep in mind boiler height, length of components, the max height you have to work with, etc... That will allow you know how long to cut your pieces of pipe to attach/solder ferrules. Copper ferrules are super simple to solder to copper pipe in comparison to stainless ferrules. A good 3" reflux column needs at least 5' of packed column if you're shooting for best neutral.

For a reflux column, 3" will be a welcome upgrade from 2" (twice the take-off speed). I started with 3" and somewhat recently switched to 4" which is almost twice the take-off rate of 3". Up-sizing keeps things very interesting. I only make neutral a few times per year, but you'll never regret significant improvements.

I primarily make neutral so I design the reflux column & head first. With very few changes it becomes a basic pot still for stripping runs. It's nice to have a product condenser that can handle as much power input as you can produce for stripping runs. I use the same product condenser for Spirit Runs even though it is overkill (barely a trickle of water).

I like a tall riser when in pot still mode, that way I can collect product on a table rather than squatting to collect product on the floor or having to elevate the boiler.

You have a lot of 3" pipe so with a little planning, you should be able to accommodate just about any configuration you want. Feel free to post some pics or drawings of what different configurations you have in mind. I'm sure you'll get plenty of input.

[MooseMan]

If you're already comfortable running a 2" CCVM then sticking with that at 3" seems sensible Alz.

You could even use the same RC from your 2" setup in the top with no issue as long as it's got enough condensing power, just step down from 3" to 2" at the top of the tee.

You're gonna have to push more power up the column for 3" though, so bear that in mind.

I disagree with the argument about having to climb up a ladder and adjust the RC coil on a CCVM setup, as opposed to turning a valve. It's literally 3 adjustments over the course of many hours of running!
I mean come on, you'll be glad for something to do!

[Alzahra888]

With 8' of 3" pipe, you can pretty much make whatever you want. It all starts with a good plan! I always start by drawing desired configurations out to scale. Keep in mind boiler height, length of components, the max height you have to work with, etc... That will allow you know how long to cut your pieces of pipe to attach/solder ferrules. Copper ferrules are super simple to solder to copper pipe in comparison to stainless ferrules. A good 3" reflux column needs at least 5' of packed column if you're shooting for best neutral.

For a reflux column, 3" will be a welcome upgrade from 2" (twice the take-off speed). I started with 3" and somewhat recently switched to 4" which is almost twice the take-off rate of 3". Up-sizing keeps things very interesting. I only make neutral a few times per year, but you'll never regret significant improvements.

I primarily make neutral so I design the reflux column & head first. With very few changes it becomes a basic pot still for stripping runs. It's nice to have a product condenser that can handle as much power input as you can produce for stripping runs. I use the same product condenser for Spirit Runs even though it is overkill (barely a trickle of water).

I like a tall riser when in pot still mode, that way I can collect product on a table rather than squatting to collect product on the floor or having to elevate the boiler.

You have a lot of 3" pipe so with a little planning, you should be able to accommodate just about any configuration you want. Feel free to post some pics or drawings of what different configurations you have in mind. I'm sure you'll get plenty of input.

Will do some posts once i get up to speed on MS paint or some such thing. Cant fall asleep at night without walking the column trapeze back and forth in my mind.

I did just order some tri clamps and a 3”-2” reducer.

While these make their way to the tarmac I can plan more seriously. Packing i am still undecided about and dont know how much is needed for the huge space upgrade.

I use propane which has a lot of power and I don’t care about moving the reflux condenser a couple times. Steadiness is always a challenge and the more I read the more important it seems to be for stabilizing and keeping the fractions properly stacked.

I will use my existing rc above the 2” tee. Glad to hear you second that.

I like what you say about a tall column and not having all my collection vessels on the ground.

It’l be modular so i will look into sourcing perforated sheets.

[Alzahra888]

If you're already comfortable running a 2" CCVM then sticking with that at 3" seems sensible Alz.

You could even use the same RC from your 2" setup in the top with no issue as long as it's got enough condensing power, just step down from 3" to 2" at the top of the tee.

You're gonna have to push more power up the column for 3" though, so bear that in mind.

I disagree with the argument about having to climb up a ladder and adjust the RC coil on a CCVM setup, as opposed to turning a valve. It's literally 3 adjustments over the course of many hours of running!
I mean come on, you'll be glad for something to do!

Thanks MooseMan. Great points and all taken.

[greggn]

Me, I'd put ferrules on the ends of one of the spools and use that as a packed reflux column. Run that for a while, compare results against the 2", and then decide which best fits your workflow.

Meanwhile, think about what you *need* to further your hobby as opposed to what you *want.* Before long you'll probably have a good vision as to how to put them to best use.

[Alzahra888]

Me, I'd put ferrules on the ends of one of the spools and use that as a packed reflux column. Run that for a while, compare results against the 2", and then decide which best fits your workflow.

Meanwhile, think about what you *need* to further your hobby as opposed to what you *want.* Before long you'll probably have a good vision as to how to put them to best use.

Thanks greggn.

Yes, ferrules are a must. My hobby is whisky rum cognac but as we end up with things that need to be cleaned up and the reflux is essential. Vodka, gin are byproducts. I could get by on a 2”. But i need, if need is really a thing, to play with configurations to dicover new ways of running things.

I do not need anything more than a pot still for my whiskey. But i have a ton of wine waiting to be made into cognac. For that, some plates might be all the rave.

The new tube is the new plaything.

[Alzahra888]

duplicate

[Alzahra888]

ditto. Another duplicate.

[Alzahra888]

I would go with vm climbing a ladder to adjust a coil seems useless when you compare how cheap gate valves are now. You could just buy 4 of these with disc then when you want to pack it just remove the plates. Or run the plates as a flute. Remove the column put a short riser on and then you can run you rum and whiskey as a pot still
48 inches filled with copper would be difficult to hit aezo.

Yes, got my eye on those Tammuz.

[Salt Must Flow]

With 8' of 3" pipe, you can pretty much make whatever you want. It all starts with a good plan! I always start by drawing desired configurations out to scale. Keep in mind boiler height, length of components, the max height you have to work with, etc... That will allow you know how long to cut your pieces of pipe to attach/solder ferrules. Copper ferrules are super simple to solder to copper pipe in comparison to stainless ferrules. A good 3" reflux column needs at least 5' of packed column if you're shooting for best neutral.

For a reflux column, 3" will be a welcome upgrade from 2" (twice the take-off speed). I started with 3" and somewhat recently switched to 4" which is almost twice the take-off rate of 3". Up-sizing keeps things very interesting. I only make neutral a few times per year, but you'll never regret significant improvements.

I primarily make neutral so I design the reflux column & head first. With very few changes it becomes a basic pot still for stripping runs. It's nice to have a product condenser that can handle as much power input as you can produce for stripping runs. I use the same product condenser for Spirit Runs even though it is overkill (barely a trickle of water).

I like a tall riser when in pot still mode, that way I can collect product on a table rather than squatting to collect product on the floor or having to elevate the boiler.

You have a lot of 3" pipe so with a little planning, you should be able to accommodate just about any configuration you want. Feel free to post some pics or drawings of what different configurations you have in mind. I'm sure you'll get plenty of input.

Will do some posts once i get up to speed on MS paint or some such thing. Cant fall asleep at night without walking the column trapeze back and forth in my mind.

I did just order some tri clamps and a 3”-2” reducer.

While these make their way to the tarmac I can plan more seriously. Packing i am still undecided about and dont know how much is needed for the huge space upgrade.

I use propane which has a lot of power and I don’t care about moving the reflux condenser a couple times. Steadiness is always a challenge and the more I read the more important it seems to be for stabilizing and keeping the fractions properly stacked.

I will use my existing rc above the 2” tee. Glad to hear you second that.

I like what you say about a tall column and not having all my collection vessels on the ground.

It’l be modular so i will look into sourcing perforated sheets.

I don't believe I commented about that. I believe someone else mentioned doing that.

Personally, I've always used a 3" reflux condenser with a 3" column. I wouldn't have wanted to make it any smaller than it was. When I upgraded to a 4" column I also used a 4" reflux condenser. If I could, I would have made it a little bit bigger.

When I operated my 3" VM I ran it at 2750W. I understand you heat over gas flame so there's probably no good way to know how much power your 2" reflux condenser can handle. I would make a 3" reflux condenser. I have a hard time believing that a 2" reflux condenser will handle twice the power to operate a 3" column.

By all means try your 2" setup over top of a 3" column to confirm. If it does work, I'd bet you would have to drastically increase the water flow to make it work. That or it just won't work well enough.

[Alzahra888]

With 8' of 3" pipe, you can pretty much make whatever you want. It all starts with a good plan! I always start by drawing desired configurations out to scale. Keep in mind boiler height, length of components, the max height you have to work with, etc... That will allow you know how long to cut your pieces of pipe to attach/solder ferrules. Copper ferrules are super simple to solder to copper pipe in comparison to stainless ferrules. A good 3" reflux column needs at least 5' of packed column if you're shooting for best neutral.

For a reflux column, 3" will be a welcome upgrade from 2" (twice the take-off speed). I started with 3" and somewhat recently switched to 4" which is almost twice the take-off rate of 3". Up-sizing keeps things very interesting. I only make neutral a few times per year, but you'll never regret significant improvements.

I primarily make neutral so I design the reflux column & head first. With very few changes it becomes a basic pot still for stripping runs. It's nice to have a product condenser that can handle as much power input as you can produce for stripping runs. I use the same product condenser for Spirit Runs even though it is overkill (barely a trickle of water).

I like a tall riser when in pot still mode, that way I can collect product on a table rather than squatting to collect product on the floor or having to elevate the boiler.

You have a lot of 3" pipe so with a little planning, you should be able to accommodate just about any configuration you want. Feel free to post some pics or drawings of what different configurations you have in mind. I'm sure you'll get plenty of input.

Will do some posts once i get up to speed on MS paint or some such thing. Cant fall asleep at night without walking the column trapeze back and forth in my mind.

I did just order some tri clamps and a 3”-2” reducer.

While these make their way to the tarmac I can plan more seriously. Packing i am still undecided about and dont know how much is needed for the huge space upgrade.

I use propane which has a lot of power and I don’t care about moving the reflux condenser a couple times. Steadiness is always a challenge and the more I read the more important it seems to be for stabilizing and keeping the fractions properly stacked.

I will use my existing rc above the 2” tee. Glad to hear you second that.

I like what you say about a tall column and not having all my collection vessels on the ground.

It’l be modular so i will look into sourcing perforated sheets.

I don't believe I commented about that. I believe someone else mentioned doing that.

Personally, I've always used a 3" reflux condenser with a 3" column. I wouldn't have wanted to make it any smaller than it was. When I upgraded to a 4" column I also used a 4" reflux condenser. If I could, I would have made it a little bit bigger.

When I operated my 3" VM I ran it at 2750W. I understand you heat over gas flame so there's probably no good way to know how much power your 2" reflux condenser can handle. I would make a 3" reflux condenser. I have a hard time believing that a 2" reflux condenser will handle twice the power to operate a 3" column.

By all means try your 2" setup over top of a 3" column to confirm. If it does work, I'd bet you would have to drastically increase the water flow to make it work. That or it just won't work well enough.

Thanks, my bad. I had read two posts together and replied in one comment.

Both experiences are heeded. I know I’ll have to figure it out myself.

Apologies and thanks for coming back with this!