Time for a new flange

[Oak Pollen]

My homemade flange bit the dust so I am back to building. It worked fine for the last 5 years. My question, if I go with a ss flange to copper, what type of silver solder ( silver content) and flux should I use?

[Deplorable]

Harris Stay Brite 8. Theres a million threads on this subject.
Harris also makes the suitable acid flux for the silver solder.
The image below is the paste flux, but I prefer the liquid over the paste.

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[Oak Pollen]

Thanks, I found those posts and you are right there are a bunch of them. I’ve been looking in the wrong place.

[Yummyrum]

I'm with Deplorable , get the Liquid flux .

[shadylane]

My homemade flange bit the dust so I am back to building. It worked fine for the last 5 years. My question, if I go with a ss flange to copper, what type of silver solder ( silver content) and flux should I use?

Now days it's cheaper to buy a copper ferrule than it is to buy the solder and flux needed for stainless to copper.

[Saltbush Bill]

Now days it's cheaper to buy a copper ferrule than it is to buy the solder and flux needed for stainless to copper.

Do you have a link to those Copper ferrules Shady?
The ones that Ive used work well but are pressed into shape and would be easy to damage if dropped onto something like a cement floor.
For that reason alone in future I'll stick to stainless ferrules.

[shadylane]

Look up "copper tri-clamp ferrules" on amazon
Not sure what size the OP needs but 2" is $16 and 3" is $29 US.
I've used the 3" ones on several builds and they're durable and definitely tough enough to drop or bang around.

[Saltbush Bill]

Ok thanks, different design to the ones ive encountered, those look good n sturdy.

[Yummyrum]

Keep the Oxy torch away from them and they should stay hard . I’d imagine they would go soft if you tried to use hard solder or Brazing rod to join to pipe .

[BigSwede]

There's a type of copper ferrule that accepts the outer diameter of the column pipe, rather than having to be jammed into the pipe ID. The problem with the latter is differing types of copper pipe (K, L, M, DWV) all have different inner diameters, but the same OD.

Bonus is, the first type is extremely beefy. PM me if you want a link to a USA supplier, one who isn't always in the best favor here, but their hardware has always been solid IMO.

If you go stainless ferrule, I'm a big fan of liquid flux specifically labeled "for stainless". It's a different beast from normal flux for copper, and will work for both. Has fluorides in it, wets SS better.

[PalCabral]

Look up "copper tri-clamp ferrules" on amazon
Not sure what size the OP needs but 2" is $16 and 3" is $29 US.
I've used the 3" ones on several builds and they're durable and definitely tough enough to drop or bang around.

With Oakstills they are $8.80 for 2" and $19.60 for 3".

[zach]

I have used Harris Bridgit and Stayclean Flux with good results with stainless to stainless and stainless to copper. It only has a trace amount of silver 0.15% and is 1/3 the price of the Staybrite #8. ($56 vs $150 for a 1 lb roll)

I like it because I can bridge gaps on poorly fitted joints. No failures yet including a 4" on top of my keg.

bridgit.jpg

stayclean.jpg

There are two types of ferrules used in sanitary piping systems. Butt weld and roll on expanded ferrules. Roll-on expanded ferrules (below) are typically used to slip over the tube and welded or soldered into place. Both types of ferrules are designed for tubing which has a specified OD, not pipe which has a specified ID.

Rmp.png

I've found butt weld stainless ferrules that slip on copper pipe (not tube which is OD) For example a 3/4" copper pipe is 0.875 OD and a 1" OD butt weld ferrule slides over with just a little removed from the OD of the pipe. If you have 2" copper pipe (2.125 OD) , the only solution I see is to slide the ferrule inside the pipe.