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My controller. THANKS guys. Could not have done it without you.

Now that looks pretty, hope it runs OK.

Thanks for that info on the controller,Sam certainly a relief.

Well almost light at the end of the tunnel. The keg is finished, the new element, only one, is installed. The column is mounted and can be slid into the screw on base. Filled the keg with water and switched on, without the controller which has yet to arrive.

It took just under an hour to get around four gallons of water to a steady boil which was reassuring as there was concern that the element was too short. There was 14'' and to be on the safe side element was only 11'' . Will be using a gas ring to assist the initial build up of temp, then this will be shut off.

Glad to hear that the Sutronic burst fire ctllr is going to be OK for this set up, but still wondering what, and how we can add something to get some indication of power, so that we can begin working out approximately controller setting will give us an optimal temp gradient in the column. Also where that will fit into the circuit. Thanks.

Resasi wrote:
Glad to hear that the Sutronic burst fire ctllr is going to be OK for this set up, but still wondering what, and how we can add something to get some indication of power, so that we can begin working out approximately controller setting will give us an optimal temp gradient in the column. Also where that will fit into the circuit. Thanks.

You can buy any cheap 30V DC voltmeter (like this one http://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-30V-DC ... 58656.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow) and connect it to heating element through this circuit -

UPD
- Use any rectifier diode for 600+V , For example 1N4005
- Capacitors are polar. Pin marked "-" should be connected to Neutral wire.
- Wait 15-20 seconds to get correct reading after voltage level change.

Sambedded that has been most kind of you, thank you very much for that information.

Will get that set up, then I presume it will be some experimentation to find the Voltage reading that will give us the best drip/stream rate on the output.

In that regard if I have it right I will be looking for a steady but not too fast output. I will start looking into that now to see what I should be looking for.

Intention is to get a high ABV clear spirit with no flavor. Using bread yeast,, sugar, water, and an 18 Lt pressure cooker pot still, with four runs was getting a gallon of blue flame spirit from 10 galls of wash in Saudi. It would have a faint but pleasant odor, and was cut with two galls of water. Either drunk as a vodka or put on Bourbon barrel chips for some months and drunk as a very smooth Brown Sidiqi.

I am sincerely hoping that my column and 7gall keg will cut down the large amount of time I would spend on the many runs I would have to do to process the 10 gall batch four times.

Resasi wrote:, thank you very much for that information.

You are welcome/
Couple notes about schematic
- Diode type on diagram is wrong. You should use any rectifier diode for 600+V , For example 1N4005
- Capacitors are polar. Pin marked "-" should be connected to Neutral wire.

And this circuit will work kinda slow. You will get correct reading 15-20 seconds after level change.

UPD I fixed a schematic at original post

Sam I have noted this message in the correction to the circuit diagram. It is unfortunately way above my head but I know a man to whom all will be clear...I hope.

I have re-copied the circuit diagram above and understand that there will be a lag before obtaining a steady reading that will indicate the power being fed to the element.

Thank you again for your help.

After yesterdays run will be lagging the column and keg. Both got extremely hot and I would imagine it is inefficient to have it like that. Luckily the column like the keg is unpolished stainless and so I will not be masking any polished copper works of art. I have seen some real beauties on this Forum, however over here low profile is good.

Why not just put an AC volt and amp meters on the load circuit? This would give you an indicator that would be good enough to get repeatable settings.

Prairiepiss wrote:Why not just put an AC volt and amp meters on the load circuit? This would give you an indicator that would be good enough to get repeatable settings.

Because Resasi has burst power controller with 1 sec interval. If you just put an AC volt and amp meters on the load circuit - readings will jump from 0 to full every half a second.

Yep found that out

I am currently building a phase angle controller. Early in this post I found a wiring dia. Showed a PSR 25 with a 250k pot. I bought the psr to build this but later I read something about using a 1M 2w pot. I couldnt find one but I also read something about using a 560k or greater for 230v. I bought a 650k 2w. When I got the psr it stated it was 230v 25A but it says 250k for control. Will the 650k pot work or did I read into a different psr/ssr control talk? Not an electrician but I know some.I assume the 250k is how much it takes to control the psr, so what happens with a 650k? Finer control or all the time on? Thanks.

freespirited wrote: different psr/ssr control talk? Not an electrician but I know some.I assume the 250k is how much it takes to control the psr, so what happens with a 650k? Finer control or all the time on? Thanks.

650k pot will work but only on 1/3 of it's interval. So you will have more rough control. So I recommend try to use your 650k but, but also order a 250k pot as well.

sambedded wrote:

freespirited wrote: different psr/ssr control talk? Not an electrician but I know some.I assume the 250k is how much it takes to control the psr, so what happens with a 650k? Finer control or all the time on? Thanks.

650k pot will work but only on 1/3 of it's interval. So you will have more rough control. So I recommend try to use your 650k but, but also order a 250k pot as well.

Thanks I will just deny the delivery and return to sender. Is there a place you guys are getting these? I am not really coming across 250K 2w with a knob.

your not looking very hard...

USA
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=R1094086" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Australia
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/tr ... s/5225349/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

freespirited wrote:. Is there a place you guys are getting these? I am not really coming across 250K 2w

maheel wrote:your not looking very hard...

USA
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=R1094086" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Australia
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/tr ... s/5225349/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

freespirited wrote:. Is there a place you guys are getting these? I am not really coming across 250K 2w

Thanks I guess. Those are not in stock.

For future reference these are:
https://www.alliedelec.com/search/searc ... archType=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I've installed a 4500w element on my 50l keg, would the ssr psr-25 be ok or do I need the 40A one ? ebay shows tons of ssr models and I dont know which one to pick, thanks.

Cmdte wrote:I've installed a 4500w element on my 50l keg, would the ssr psr-25 be ok or do I need the 40A one ? ebay shows tons of ssr models and I dont know which one to pick, thanks.

If the element rated 4500w at 220 or 240V - yes you can use SSR-25.
if you are looking for phase-angle controller - you need SSR-25VA and potentiometer.

sambedded wrote:

Cmdte wrote:I've installed a 4500w element on my 50l keg, would the ssr psr-25 be ok or do I need the 40A one ? ebay shows tons of ssr models and I dont know which one to pick, thanks.

If the element rated 4500w at 220 or 240V - yes you can use SSR-25.
if you are looking for phase-angle controller - you need SSR-25VA and potentiometer.

Thanks for the quick reply, pardon my ignorance, but what is the difference on the 2 you've mentioned and\or which one should I go with, what do you recommend ?
By the way, I have a pot and on the back it says: B5K (and the ohms symbol next to it), would that work ?

SSR-25 it just a "solid state relay rated for 25A" they can be different types -DA, VA and AA.
You need VA ( SSR controlled by potentiometer)

sambedded wrote:SSR-25 it just a "solid state relay rated for 25A" they can be different types -DA, VA and AA.
You need VA ( SSR controlled by potentiometer)

Gotcha !

I have a pot and on the back it says: B5K (and the ohms symbol next to it), would that work ?

Cmdte wrote:
Gotcha !

I have a pot and on the back it says: B5K (and the ohms symbol next to it), would that work ?

It depends. Fotek SSR requires 500K pot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Resi ... 0477740039" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

sambedded wrote:

Cmdte wrote:
Gotcha !

I have a pot and on the back it says: B5K (and the ohms symbol next to it), would that work ?

It depends. Fotek SSR requires 500K pot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Resi ... 0477740039" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If I had one 240v kitchen knob and I connect the h. element direct to it with the 240v line, wouldnt I be able to control the power\temp of the element, therefor no need of ssr and pot ?

Cmdte wrote:
If I had one 240v kitchen knob and I connect the h. element direct to it with the 240v line, wouldnt I be able to control the power\temp of the element, therefor no need of ssr and pot ?

I'm not familiar with kitchen stove regulators. However
- typical "big" hotplate has 2500w. So I'm not sure if "kitchen knob" can handle 4000+ watts.
- usually kitchen hotplates controlled by "cycling" with a duty period of a few seconds. This is acceptable for pot stil, but not good for reflux column.

Cmdte wrote:

sambedded wrote:

Cmdte wrote:
Gotcha !

I have a pot and on the back it says: B5K (and the ohms symbol next to it), would that work ?

It depends. Fotek SSR requires 500K pot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Resi ... 0477740039" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If I had one 240v kitchen knob and I connect the h. element direct to it with the 240v line, wouldnt I be able to control the power\temp of the element, therefor no need of ssr and pot ?

No for the same reasons we tell people not to use their electric stoves and hot plates. They cycle on an off. Not actually adjusting the power.

Prairiepiss wrote:
No for the same reasons we tell people not to use their electric stoves and hot plates. They cycle on an off. Not actually adjusting the power.

Cycling on and off IS a method to adjust power, just a rough one. Friend of mine running potstil on his kitchen stove. Works OK. But it 's definitely not recommended for reflux towers.

It would be a good method of power control if the cycles were on a shorter time span. But most if not all electric stoves cycle in a long time span. And it is not good for either a pot still or a reflux still.

I guess you guys are right, actually I dont think a kitchen knob will be able to handle 4k + watts heating elements someone suggested to just connect the element to a potentiometer to control the power ouput to the element but Im not sure thats going to work as well, you guys seem more experienced, you should have a better idea.

Thanks.

PS: Anyone know where to buy a SSR in Canada?, I have searched online and no luck.

If you are ready to wait 2-4 weeks you can buy it on eBay.
For example - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Phase-SS ... 35c1a2d31b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

sambedded wrote:If you are ready to wait 2-4 weeks you can buy it on eBay.
For example - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Phase-SS ... 35c1a2d31b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Thats why I asked about buying it here in Canada to avoid the waiting time even if it was more expensive, but I guess I'll have to buy it from eBay, thanks for the link though, I wasnt sure which one to pick on eBay, now I know.

Ok so I built the control just as pinto's design states. problem is that i don't see it adjusting the temperature at all. in fact the internal element still runs after i switch the dimmer completely off. Do i need a "bigger" dimmer or pot? the one i used was what pinto spec'd out. any thoughts. let me know if more info is needed

What do you mean its not adjusting temp. It's not really going to adjust temps if you measuring them on the still?