FLUTE TALK

[kiwistiller]

oh ok, thought you had a 3" for some reason. I'll just go with the passive heat loss one then

Actually, something else to consider is that due to higher surface tension on the first plate, the bubbles would probably be different. Most of the change in ABV is happening in the first 1 or 2 distillations. Could well be a factor in what you are seeing.

[JethroBodine]

Looking good Spooky!! More info is better. I'm thinking it's the higher ABV also. I think we still need to see more pieces of the puzzle before we get the whole picture.

[Samohon]

I'd really like to know the abv you put into penny, (somehow it just sounds dirty... )

Was is a straight wash or maybe some feigns thrown in...?

Great work man, can't wait to join the club...

[Kentucky shinner]

I'd really like to know the abv you put into penny, (somehow it just sounds dirty... )

Was is a straight wash or maybe some feigns thrown in...?

Great work man, can't wait to join the club...

It was a all feints run Sam. He was doing his alcohol cleaning run.

[Barney Fife]

Nothing to add to the plate discussion, but as for pressure relief valves, all we need is a swing-type check valve. About $10-15 at any hardware store. Most are brass, but I've seen them in copper, too. Unlike the spring type check valves, these won't have a rubber o-ring seal; just machined brass or copper surfaces. They seal nicely(they're what we use with my well) and open under minimal pressure.; We could adjust the pressure required to open them by grinding away some weight to make them open sooner, or soldering-on some weight to make them open at higher pressures, but I suspect they're be right fine as-is. You can hold one to your mouth and see how much it takes to get them to open, and it's not much. Run a copper line from the outlet back toward the floor, and place the end of that line in a pail of water so that if it does release pressure, the vapors will condense immediately in the pail's water and not create an explosive cloud in your shed. Rescues your vapors for reuse, also, and would also show if the valve leaks(it would bubble slowly). It won't be able to siphon the water back to the column or boiler, since the valve is a one-way only device.

Gonna take my own advice and install one on my upcoming 3" column build; thanks for making me think of it, guys!

Like this:



Spooky, nice work! Regarding your leaks, there are usually three reasons for soldered joints that leak; not clean enough, not enough flux, or too much heat. A plumber friend who taught me to sweat joints told me to pull the torch away as soon as the solder went into the joint, and said most amateurs leave the torch on the joint too long, which makes the solder run right through it, leaving too little behind. I've never had a leak, using his method. I also clean my joints and the nearby surfaces as clean as can be, and use way more flux than seems necessary, which he also recommended I do. And don't use a dirty old flux brush; use a new brush for each new job, or as soon as you think the brush is dirty. He actually used his little finger more often than a brush. Anywho, hope this helps!

[Samohon]

I'd really like to know the abv you put into penny, (somehow it just sounds dirty... )

Was is a straight wash or maybe some feigns thrown in...?

Great work man, can't wait to join the club...

It was a all feints run Sam. He was doing his alcohol cleaning run.

Thanks KS, must've mis-interpreted...

Will really be interested to know how the bottom plate performs with a straight wash 10 - 14%abv...

[Mr.Spooky]

Spooky, nice work! Regarding your leaks, there are usually three reasons for soldered joints that leak; not clean enough, not enough flux, or too much heat. A plumber friend who taught me to sweat joints told me to pull the torch away as soon as the solder went into the joint, and said most amateurs leave the torch on the joint too long, which makes the solder run right through it, leaving too little behind. I've never had a leak, using his method. I also clean my joints and the nearby surfaces as clean as can be, and use way more flux than seems necessary, which he also recommended I do. And don't use a dirty old flux brush; use a new brush for each new job, or as soon as you think the brush is dirty. He actually used his little finger more often than a brush. Anywho, hope this helps!

yea,,, i keep the heat moving,,, but the clean flux you menioned might be my problem. theres really no telling how long iv had this flux, and how dirty it is. its all gone anyway, so next itme its gonna be new.
thanks
spooky

[Mr.Spooky]

Wow spook shes popen away I could only watch the first min or so kept stalling on me but looks good. Are you going to turn the rest?

shewwwwwww,,,,.... id like to think that im gonna turn the rest, but with the sight glasses in, it kinda makes it hard to keep everything just right as your making the rowes. if it was a blank piece of pipe, each time you made a row and rotated the pipe,everything would be level, but if one side of the pipe is hihger than the other,, or just a little offset, the individual "spin" would not sit on the pipe right...... i hope that that kinda makes sence.
though, i could rest the pipe on a sandbag or something.... this probabally not making any sence .... anyway,
back to the question,,,, i dunno,,, i might turn the column
spooky

[condensificator]

kicks ass spooky! i am totally hooked on checking out all of the info on the bubblers. i drove by the place that sells the 4" copper today, and i almost turned into the parking lot...took incredible self-control not to.



as far as the pressure relief, seems to me, like if there is one on the boiler, there would be no need for an additional one...the heat/vapor/pressure are all developed by the boiler...but there is absolutely nothing wrong with and abundance of safety, so a redundant one on the still seems like it's be worth it. the ones at mile hi are set to 5psi, but are easily adjusted to a good hard "breath" with a pair of wrenches. they are threaded 1/8" npt, so the size is pretty easy to fit or tap. $15 could save your life or house...worth every penny. i like the idea of having the vent directed away from the heat source and sent through water....extra safe.

[Mr.Spooky]

I have an idea but can't let the cat out of the bag yet, I experimenting on differnt stains lets say.....

just remember,,,, unless you lacquer,,, there will be constant change.
so what are ya doing???????????

[olddog]

Even when you do laquer, it turns to a nice golden brown color with time and continual use, but it dosn't corrode.


OD

[Mr.Spooky]

I have an idea but can't let the cat out of the bag yet, I experimenting on differnt stains lets say.....

just remember,,,, unless you lacquer,,, there will be constant change.
so what are ya doing???????????

I'm really bad at keeping my own secrets.... Gun barrel blueing. Please don't copy before I finish( yea right)

HAHA,,, you hold the copyrights my friend!!!!
does blueing work on copper?????
that theres a good idear

[LWTCS]

Zat Like an acid wash? Or a plating technique?

[Kentucky shinner]

I have an idea but can't let the cat out of the bag yet, I experimenting on differnt stains lets say.....

just remember,,,, unless you lacquer,,, there will be constant change.
so what are ya doing???????????

I'm really bad at keeping my own secrets.... Gun barrel blueing. Please don't copy before I finish( yea right)

that will be like black chrome man.. pretty neat idea.

[Mr.Spooky]

black chrome sounds X rated!!!!
do you got a test piece rockchucker22???? will this work?

[condensificator]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selenous_acid" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

use it every day.

[condensificator]

you can get it at walmart or a gun store as "super blue" or "perma blue" in little bottles. the most important factor in getting a good finish is the prep work. needs to be immaculately clean and degreased. it can range anywhere from a slight brown patina, to bright purple, to dark black, depending on the temp of the work piece, the temp of the solution and the duration of exposure. when i am doing copper alloy parts (brass, bronze, copper, mokume, etc.) that i need to be BLACK, i heat the workpiece and heat enough solution to make a bath hot enough that it is a little steamy, then dunk the part. the instant the desired color come through, it needs to IMMEDIATELY be neutralized in water, or else it will just slough off...it's a very fine line and i have spent a LOT of time, twice, on finishing Cu alloy stuff. you guys have links to my sites, and if you skim through them, you can see all the different finishes on the Cu alloy stuff...most is done with a combo of heat and selenious acid.

there are several other methods of "gun bluing," but this is the one that is easiest, and most accessible to hobby folk. if you really want to take it further, look at http://www.brownells.com in the chemical finish section. i have had great results on a variety of metals with both "nitra blue," and "oxynate no. 7," but they require a bit of dedicated equipment and are expensive.

there are also a sh*tload of chemical patinas dedicated to Cu alloys. i can dig up links if anyone is interested.

[olddog]

You would have to be very carefull heating up a still that you had just spent hours to build only to get all of the joints to become unsoldered due to the heat applied.


OD

[Mr.Spooky]

You would have to be very carefull heating up a still that you had just spent hours to build only to get all of the joints to become unsoldered due to the heat applied.


OD

depending on how much heat hees talking about.
spooky

[condensificator]

You would have to be very carefull heating up a still that you had just spent hours to build only to get all of the joints to become unsoldered due to the heat applied.


OD

yeah, spook's right. i am not talking about anywhere near the amount of heat that would melt solder. with chemical finishes, i am talking about less heat than would boil water.

there are, of course, lots of different oxide effects to be achieved with heat alone, as anyone who has ever taken a torch to copper has seen.

[Mr.Spooky]

You would have to be very carefull heating up a still that you had just spent hours to build only to get all of the joints to become unsoldered due to the heat applied.


OD

yeah, spook's right. i am not talking about anywhere near the amount of heat that would melt solder. with chemical finishes, i am talking about less heat than would boil water.

there are, of course, lots of different oxide effects to be achieved with heat alone, as anyone who has ever taken a torch to copper has seen.

when i was looking at copper finishes,, i saw people applying heat to copper that would end up looking like faces and scenery.... most impressive. i tried it and just ended upwith some discoulered copper.... indeed,,, it is a art.

[ScottishBoy]

Finally got a chance to see your rig in Action, Spooky.
Very nice!

[Mr.Spooky]

Finally got a chance to see your rig in Action, Spooky.
Very nice!

thanks SB. i still got a few bugs to work out though.
spooky

[Mr.Spooky]

Finally got a chance to see your rig in Action, Spooky.
Very nice!

What did you use to seal the sight glasses it looks pink?

As far as bluesing goes it works but isn't easy. I have a few sample but want to get it right first.

that was just some thread seal tape... it wasnot the propper kind to be useing, but i wasent drinking anything that was coming out of it eigther.
that stuff works pretty good though,,, just wrap around edege of the glass a few times, and once in place (in the flute) just take a razor blade and trim it up.
spooky

[olddog]

I use musical cork on the inside of the sightglass, as the cork allows the glass to bed down and correct for any imperfections, and I use seal washers cut from a sheet of virgin Teflon on the outside of the glass, the teflon allows the tightening ring to be adjusted without screwing up the cork.


OD

[Kentucky shinner]

I use musical cork on the inside of the sightglass, as the cork allows the glass to bed down and correct for any imperfections, and I use seal washers cut from a sheet of virgin Teflon on the outside of the glass, the teflon allows the tightening ring to be adjusted without screwing up the cork.


OD

+1 exactly same thing I am using. works great.
KS

[Mr.Spooky]

I use musical cork on the inside of the sightglass, as the cork allows the glass to bed down and correct for any imperfections, and I use seal washers cut from a sheet of virgin Teflon on the outside of the glass, the teflon allows the tightening ring to be adjusted without screwing up the cork.


OD

iv got a sheet of the cork, and a sheet of the virgin teflon.. but where i messed up doing my sightglasses, neigther will work for me.
i did try to use some of the teflon stuff to make a gasket for my 2" keg attachment, and it leaked. speaking of that,,,, cant you use mapp gass to soulder the SSflanges to copper?
spooky

[LWTCS]

speaking of that,,,, cant you use mapp gass to soulder the SSflanges to copper?

Recon you can use soft solder ( and comensurate flux) any where you don't need structural integrity.

[Mr.Spooky]

it needs to have structural integrity.... i was gonna put a 2" ferrul on the flute.

[Kentucky shinner]

it needs to have structural integrity.... i was gonna put a 2" ferrul on the flute.

This is what I have done.. Put the ferrule in the freezer over night, then the next day heat your 2" section where your gonna put the ferrule up pretty hot. Then you can tap the ferrule right down into it. You might have to use a piece of 2x4 and drive it. Once it is in that bitch aint going nowhere. you can use soft solder and it will be there till you cut it out..
again this works for me. I just did it the other night on another build that I am doing.
KS