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I have the still head roughed out.
viewtopic.php?t=90878
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I am going to go ahead and see how the 1 inch over 1/2 Liebig works. If it doesn't I can always make the change. I don't have any 3/4 inch on hand at the moment.

Will you be using a 90 elbow between the head and the Liebig? An elbow would allow you to set the Liebig at any angle. Many also use either a copper union or a Tri-Clamp so the Liebig can be removed easily.

I have another 90 degree and triclamp. I posted my drawn design a while ago and was told I didn't need it, but it seems like I will.

Here is the keg I have been using as a mash cooker for beer.




I will grab a another used keg of craigslist. I think I am going to go ahead and try cutting the top of the keg out on a larger circumference than this and stainless steel bolt and wingnut it to this one when I am distilling. I can get sheets of appropriate gasket material to make a large gasket and I will put plenty of bolts on the circumference.

Also probably going to fab up an alcohol parrot. Looks easy enough to do and seems like a slick way to go.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Oct 21, 2023 1:25 pm I have another 90 degree and triclamp. I posted my drawn design a while ago and was told I didn't need it, but it seems like I will.

Years ago when I originally bought all of my Tri-Clamp parts, I got a smokin hot deal so I kinda splurged. I bought from a company who pulls from a huge inventory through a company (or companies) that import container loads of Tri-Clamp parts and somehow was able to sell them at wholesale price to retail customers. Since every joint pivots, I can set the product condenser at any angle or raise & lower the condenser while also at any angle like an articulating arm. This has come in handy more times than I can remember. While not necessary, it's convenient for me. Just being able to pivot the Liebig would be well worthwhile in my opinion otherwise it's stuck in a fixed position and are forced to make everything work around that fixed position.

Thanks Salt. This is an easy add. If I need more in the future....can do that as well

Life got in the way for a couple of weeks,but I recently had time to play with this a bit.

As with most who had no prior experience soldering copper to stainless, there was definite learning curve! My experience was that it is extremely important to almost "over clean" the contact surfaces and then let the flux sit for a couple of minutes before joining the pieces.

I found this flux to be really helpful.

I haven't cleaned or polished the head yet.

I am much more comfortable with sweating copper joints, so the condenser should easier.

Head and liebig are done



Need to track down another keg.

Looking good.

Brilliant Deano, it's come together nicely!

What are your plans with the keg now you've had time to think it through?

Hi Moose:

I am going to create a large gasket and lid with a 2 inch triclamp connectionto cover the hole in my current brew kettle. Use it without the lid for mashing and with the lid for distilling. I will post photos and progress. Here is the brew kettle I have from my beer making days.

Oh I see, so you'll make a lid for that keg, with a 2" tri clamp port in it for your riser/column.
If you're gonna do that, and you can fit a 4" fill port as well, I would.

I thought you were looking for another keg to make a boiler from scratch.

Hi Moose:

Can you tell me more about the 4" fill port? I don't understand why I would need one, the current opening is approximately 10". Where would I put it and how would I use it?

deanodeano wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 11:22 am
I am going to create a large gasket and lid with a 2 inch triclamp connectionto cover the hole in my current brew kettle.

Given the size and uneven cut you'll probably want to consider the Everlasting Gasket ...

viewtopic.php?p=6929534#p6929534

I think where people may be confused is why you would chop the top of another keg, bolt it over the huge hole on this keg, remove all those bolts when it's time to mash and bolt the lid back down when it's time to distill.

The way my mind works is to have a kettle and have a separate boiler especially if you will have two kegs. I'm pretty sure MooseMan assumed this too. He was just recommending a 4" Tri-Clamp ferrule offset from the connection to the riser which can be used as a fill port and an access port for clean-out.

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 11:45 am I think where people may be confused is why you would chop the top of another keg, bolt it over the huge hole on this keg, remove all those bolts when it's time to mash and bolt the lid back down when it's time to distill.

The way my mind works is to have a kettle and have a separate boiler especially if you will have two kegs. I'm pretty sure MooseMan assumed this too. He was just recommending a 4" Tri-Clamp ferrule offset from the connection to the riser which can be used as a fill port and an access port for clean-out.

Yes this is exactly my thinking on the situation thanks Salt.

No way would I mangle another keg to do what you're proposing Deano.
You'll end up with 2 kegs, both with big holes cut out of the top that will need messing with, when you could have the original one with a hole for your beer mash tun/boiler and the new one with ports in the top for your distilling boiler.

I don't get it.

MooseMan wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 12:09 pm

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 11:45 am I think where people may be confused is why you would chop the top of another keg, bolt it over the huge hole on this keg, remove all those bolts when it's time to mash and bolt the lid back down when it's time to distill.

The way my mind works is to have a kettle and have a separate boiler especially if you will have two kegs. I'm pretty sure MooseMan assumed this too. He was just recommending a 4" Tri-Clamp ferrule offset from the connection to the riser which can be used as a fill port and an access port for clean-out.

Yes this is exactly my thinking on the situation thanks Salt.

No way would I mangle another keg to do what you're proposing Deano.
You'll end up with 2 kegs, both with big holes cut out of the top that will need messing with, when you could have the original one with a hole for your beer mash tun/boiler and the new one with ports in the top for your distilling boiler.

I don't get it.

+1
I would just clean that hole up so its round and fits an off-the-shelf lid for a large stockpot and use it as a mash tun/fermenter as TB and others suggested and build a dedicated keg boiler for your still. You'll save yourself the burden of the gasket and wingnuts, and frustration of making sure it's a vapor tight seal.

+3 seems counterproductive..

Yes I will get another keg and sacrifice it to get a lid for by current one. Used kegs are cheap and I don't have to keep the second one around to clutter up my garage.... I have a big lid I use when I mash for beer, but it is vapor proof by any means for distillation

I will take both kegs to a professional and have a nice smooth 12 inch lid cut to cover the 12 inch hole. I will have holes drilled through the lid and mash keg about three inches apart. Then I will have SS bolts tacked to the underside of rim of the mash vessel so they point up and receive the lid. I will cut a gasket from a sheet of 1/8 inch thick PTFE with holes that correspond to the bolt spacing. The gasket will be approximately 9" on the inside circumference and 12" on the outside circumference. Once the gasket and lid are in place, I will use SS wing nuts to secure it.

Certainly not trying to be obtuse.... does anyone have a picture of what a 4 inch fill port looks like? A picture is worth a 1000 words!

Where do you put it, on the top near the 2" existing entrance? How do you close the fill port when you are distilling? I don't have any reference for what you guys are describing.

Thank you!

Here's the first one I found with a 4" Tri-Clamp ferrule. To seal the port you just use a Tri-Clamp end cap and clamp.

Here's a pic of mine. It has a 6" ferrule on the top, center and a 3" ferrule offset. If I could do it over, I would swap their positions.

Thank you. I could leave the 2 inch where it is on the new keg to attached to y head and probably have room for 4 to 6 inch filling/cleaning port approximately where your 3 inch is now. It looks like you had some of the upper skirt removed, does that facilitate your ability to pour the contents of the keg out, or was the skirt interfering with welding the 3 in ferrule in place?

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 4:24 pm Thank you. I could leave the 2 inch where it is on the new keg to attached to y head and probably have room for 4 to 6 inch filling/cleaning port approximately where your 3 inch is now. It looks like you had some of the upper skirt removed, does that facilitate your ability to pour the contents of the keg out?

If your riser will connect to the existing fitting on the top of the keg then why would you attach a y fitting? If you install a 4" or 6" ferrule offset like shown above, you don't need anything else (no y fitting).

Yes I cut away the skirt from the front to make everything more accessible.

I have a bottom drain so I never have to pick the keg up, never have to pour anything out, I just rinse it out using a hose.

Like I said before, if I could do my boiler over again, I'd reverse the position of those two ferrules. I just didn't know better at the time.

That was a typo. I was trying to say what you said. The keg I am getting has a standard 2 inch ferrule. I will add the 6 inch port and have the skirt cut away - I like that.

I meant to write: I could leave the 2 inch where it is on the new keg to attach to the head

I picked up the keg that I will use the distillation vessel.

It looks like a 5 inch ferrule for filling and cleaning will fit next to the existing 2 inch. I think a 6 inch might crowd everything.

if you can find the used parts this is what i did.

@mjrbuzz....now THAT is a tri clamp!!

Need to scrape the tenacious label off my recently acquired keg. I am thinking a putty knife and acetone or paint thinner? Any input is welcome.

With some adhesives, Acetone seems to work very well while others seem to work better with just WD-40. With WD-40, it seems to work well after leaving it sit for a while.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2024 4:41 pm Need to scrape the tenacious label off my recently acquired keg. I am thinking a putty knife and acetone or paint thinner? Any input is welcome.

A heatgun would be great.
A cheap propane torch would be as good but will take a little more skill.

Yeah heatgun/hairdryer and a scraper first, then a rag with foreshots/acetone or WD40 as salt says