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From what I have read about a hour give or take a little. I will know for sure hopefully in a couple days.

Hmmm, I posted this same question in the SD forum and a user said it would be better to use a different switch. Unfortunately he hasn't elaborated. Hopefully others with more knowledge than me can chime in.

your switch hook up is fine, the SSR will not be "energized" Electricity is lazy and will always take the path of least resistance. A wire with a break in it (switch) will not allow any flow of electricity.

BanjoInWA wrote:drinkingdog, thanks for looking at my drawing. It was mentioned somewhere that bypassing the controller increases the life expectancy of the SSR. Kind of like: why use it when you don't have too.

switching out the SSR may increase its life from 20 years to 21 years. I have a cheap Chinese SSR in my brew rig for over 15 years. it'll go when it wants to.

Thank you bellybuster. It seems that I might be over complicating things a bit but like everything since getting into this hobby, I'm continually learning new things.

I decided in the end to eliminate the 3 way switch. I have it all wired up and installed. Did a cleaning run last night and am currently heating a spirit run. So far all is well and I have a feeling I will love this new setup. The days of explaining to the propane guy why I like to BBQ so much are in the past. Thank you to everyone who advised me on this build.

Happy stillin...
D

Hi all,
This might be posted in the wrong thread but I figured someone with experience running electric power would be able to help.

I did my conversion to electric, did a cleaning run, and ran a 10 gal batch of sweat feed. (3 inch, 4 plate flute, beer keg boiler with 5500w element with controller built with DIY kit from StillDragon) Everything went great! Fast, easily controlled and being inside... A lot more comfortable! The one thing that concerned me was that my thermometer read hotter than usual. Closer to 180-182 degrees. It started out down around 175. When I backed off a little the only change was the level of fluid on my plates dropped. I decreased the coolant flow to the deflag to get the level back up, slowing down the take off rate, but the thermometer never changed. The smell and flavor seemed normal as I made my cuts so I just continued on. I ended up with a little more tails than normal but everything else seemed the same. I'm curious if my mash was wako or the thermometer is reading wrong or a number of other factors and it is simply a coincidence that it happened on my first run with electric. Or if I still need some pointers running electric.

Al in all, I'm thrilled with my decision to convert. I'm planning to re-calibrating my thermo before my next run just to make sure that's not the problem and any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hello,
For those of you looking to build your controllers utilizing an SSR do not source your SSR from ebay. Especially the Fotek brand from a Chinese source as they are nearly all counterfeit and dangerous to use in such an application. Please see:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SSR-solid-state ... 3ccc4d60fa
for a definitive explanation. Basically, If it is very much cheaper than what Digikey or any other large provider will sell it for, then it is most likely junk. Don't waste your valuable time or the resources you have invested assembling your setup on these Chinese --------!

bellybuster wrote:your switch hook up is fine, the SSR will not be "energized" Electricity is lazy and will always take the path of least resistance. A wire with a break in it (switch) will not allow any flow of electricity.

BanjoInWA wrote:drinkingdog, thanks for looking at my drawing. It was mentioned somewhere that bypassing the controller increases the life expectancy of the SSR. Kind of like: why use it when you don't have too.

switching out the SSR may increase its life from 20 years to 21 years. I have a cheap Chinese SSR in my brew rig for over 15 years. it'll go when it wants to.

Actually, a wire with a break in it can certainly allow electricity to flow if the voltage is sufficient to ionize the air within the gap. Many switches are based upon this principal by design.

Like many of you, I am going the Electric Heating Element route using a PID Controller (MYPIN TA7)

I finished the wiring, plugged it in and it tripped the breaker.

I have attached a wiring diagram of my setup, anyone have any words of advise? I'm over here scratching my head...

http://i.imgur.com/I5ekonM.jpg

BanjoInWA wrote:Hi all,
This might be posted in the wrong thread but I figured someone with experience running electric power would be able to help.

I did my conversion to electric, did a cleaning run, and ran a 10 gal batch of sweat feed. (3 inch, 4 plate flute, beer keg boiler with 5500w element with controller built with DIY kit from StillDragon) Everything went great! Fast, easily controlled and being inside... A lot more comfortable! The one thing that concerned me was that my thermometer read hotter than usual. Closer to 180-182 degrees. It started out down around 175. When I backed off a little the only change was the level of fluid on my plates dropped. I decreased the coolant flow to the deflag to get the level back up, slowing down the take off rate, but the thermometer never changed. The smell and flavor seemed normal as I made my cuts so I just continued on. I ended up with a little more tails than normal but everything else seemed the same. I'm curious if my mash was wako or the thermometer is reading wrong or a number of other factors and it is simply a coincidence that it happened on my first run with electric. Or if I still need some pointers running electric.

Al in all, I'm thrilled with my decision to convert. I'm planning to re-calibrating my thermo before my next run just to make sure that's not the problem and any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

New rig, new parameters. Get 2 or 3 runs on the new setup under your belt to get her figured out

Third_Coast_Spirits wrote:Like many of you, I am going the Electric Heating Element route using a PID Controller (MYPIN TA7)

I finished the wiring, plugged it in and it tripped the breaker.

I have attached a wiring diagram of my setup, anyone have any words of advise? I'm over here scratching my head...

http://i.imgur.com/I5ekonM.jpg

You have the white and black wires on the left side of the switch/plugin swapped. The white wire should go to the one side of the plugin. And the black wires feeding the system should be hooked to that side of the switch. As in sits now. The switch just shorts the black to the white.

Prairiepiss wrote:You have the white and black wires on the left side of the switch/plugin swapped. The white wire should go to the one side of the plugin. And the black wires feeding the system should be hooked to that side of the switch. As in sits now. The switch just shorts the black to the white.

THANK YA!

That MYPIN TA7 doesn't have a manual mode. As far as I can tell. So its not a good PID for our use. Since you can't control a still by temps. You need one you can adjust the percentage of power to the element.

Third_Coast_Spirits wrote:Like many of you, I am going the Electric Heating Element route using a PID Controller (MYPIN TA7)

I finished the wiring, plugged it in and it tripped the breaker.

I have attached a wiring diagram of my setup, anyone have any words of advise? I'm over here scratching my head...

http://i.imgur.com/I5ekonM.jpg

You do realize that you can only run that controller in manual mode, don't you...???

Shoot thanks for the advise guys. the Auber Model: SYL-2372 seems to have auto, correct?

Third_Coast_Spirits wrote:Shoot thanks for the advise guys. the Auber Model: SYL-2372 seems to have auto, correct?

Yes it does. If memory serves me right. They are a little more pricey. But get the job done nicely. And finding a cheaper one is not all that easy.

Edited to add. See second post below.

Third_Coast_Spirits wrote:Shoot thanks for the advise guys. the Auber Model: SYL-2372 seems to have auto, correct?

I'm not sure if it has auto or not. Like PP said you don't what an auto controller because we don't use temperatures to control our boiler. You need a manual one that you can control amount of voltage. Like a dimmer switch to a light bulb. Some have even used a dimmer switch.

The 2372 has a built in SSR output. It's only rated at 2 amp. So its not the one you want. Where the 2352 has an output to drive an SSR.

I was going down the home made phase angle controller route when I came across this

http://www.sutronics.com/ProductDetails ... =BFM240-13" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

a burst fire controller which has all the advantages of a phase angle controller but with zero RF (radio/television) interference - and at £35 about the same cost as making it myself... Result !

That controller is only good for 13 amps. And from the pics. It looks to have little of no heatsink. So I'm not sure I would trust it for a continuous 13 amps? Not sure what you plan to use as an element?

Please step over to the welcome center and give us a proper intro.

Can someone point to a page that talks about a "scrubber" and what it does or doesn't do for me. Im referring to the PSR-25. Other SSR's don't have one. Some of this stuff is starting to sink in slowly. I probably already read it but often information goes in my eyehole and gets lost. Lol

Scrubber? Are you talking about maybe a noise filter? Never heard of an electrical component called a scrubber? Supressor or filter maybe?

Apdp talking about snubber.
Most of SSR have it built in.

Damn cell phone auto correct... Yes snubber. Sorry, on the data sheet it makes it look like a selling feature. If they all have them then i don't give a rats ass as long as it works.

Ok last question for now....
My electrician buddy will be putting this thing together for me but I'd like to pretend i know what im talking about when he asks me where my type F175 filter is as per the wiring diagram on the psr-25 datasheet. Now i see that mulekicker doesn't include it in his schematic for the MK5500. Again I apologize if this has been answered in this very technical thread. Im doing my best to keep up. So in "laymans terms", what's it do and should i stick with the plan and not bother with it.
Feel free to point me towards the appropriate page if this has been answered.
Thanks fellas
Aaron

Prairiepiss wrote: You have the white and black wires on the left side of the switch/plugin swapped. The white wire should go to the one side of the plugin. And the black wires feeding the system should be hooked to that side of the switch. As in sits now. The switch just shorts the black to the white.

Switched the wires and it works like a dream!!!

Thanks all for the pointers, too bad that I have the wrong controller wired up. anyway, I ordered the Auber 2352 yesterday so I'm excited for that.

Update:

Did my first test run pairing the controller to a 15 gallon SS boiler and a Boka.

Plugged the element into the box and it immediately started to heat. I didn't think anything of it initially even though the switch was flipped off and the PID controller box was off.

I had set the PID controller to regulate close the the temp of 55 degrees C. The temp rose to all the way up to 66 degrees after i turned the PID on before I pulled the cord to shut off the heating element. It was obvious that the PID wasn't regulating the heating element.

What is my next step gentlemen? I need to figure our why the switch is not controlling the element and why the PID isn't controlling the element.

Could you provide your latest wiring diagram and/or pictures ?

After sleeping on it I am wondering if its as simple as needing to break the tab between the incoming black hot line and output 2 on the SSR?

are you sure you drew this correctly? never mind saw the earlier post about the short problem

if you fixed the short, please redraw the circuit to what you have actually wired up so we can help you fix it

If you show us your actual circuit the way it is wired now, we can help you fix it