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Brewing bob wrote:Hi all, I've built a pot head for my t500 stills boiler, I've done a few cleaning runs and 1product run which wasn't to good, I never used packing stupidly, what is the best packing to use and how much do I put in??? Cheers

Sory your question got missed.

Pot still needs no packing. Unless it is a stainless steel pot still head. Then you may want to put a copper scrubby or two in it.

Your bad results may have came from the lack of heat control those boilers have. Suggest highly getting a controller for that boiler. So you can control how Mich heat you put in the pot.

That's an easy add on later. If you so chose.

I just have a couple of easy questions for you experienced guys. I just finished making my reflux column modified still. Remeber that I am aiming for nuetral spirits that i can cut and flavor later.

1. Do I soak in a bath tub or sacrifice run to remove solder paste? Or both? I thought both but i cant seem to find out how long to soak and what to soak with. Vinegar seems to be an answer but how much and how long?

2. Do i have heads and tails? I started building the reflux still that you all hate, then modified the design to increase efficiency.
If i do have heads and tails, how much do i collect to throw away?

3. How tight of packing do i put in the column? i have a roll of copper packing that i purchased from a distallation store.

Thanks for helping us Newbies!

efingbro wrote:I just have a couple of easy questions for you experienced guys. I just finished making my reflux column modified still. Remeber that I am aiming for nuetral spirits that i can cut and flavor later.

1. Do I soak in a bath tub or sacrifice run to remove solder paste? Or both? I thought both but i cant seem to find out how long to soak and what to soak with. Vinegar seems to be an answer but how much and how long?
There is a thread in the must read new distiller reading lounge. About cleaning a new still. You must have missed it during your mandatory reading.

2. Do i have heads and tails? I started building the reflux still that you all hate, then modified the design to increase efficiency.
If i do have heads and tails, how much do i collect to throw away?
Again there is a thread in the must read new distiller reading lounge. About making cuts. Called novice guide to cuts. Yes it says pot still. But you will always have foreshots, heads, hearts, and tails. And that thread pretty Mich covers those cuts. Must have missed that thread too?


3. How tight of packing do i put in the column? i have a roll of copper packing that i purchased from a distallation store.
Tight but not to tight you can't breath freely through it.
Thanks for helping us Newbies!

Truthfully you have a lot of reading to do.

Like Prairepiss said you have missed many important threads that a newbie to distilling needs to read. I would like to add when you get done reading those threads you need to read, read, and read some more. What is really cool is as you are reading many different threads you come across answers to questions you didn't know you had. I have been reading from the forum for 10 to 11 months and haven't produced the first ounce of alcohol. I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that when I do start distilling that I will produce a quality product that is safe to drink and have a still built that will meet my drinking needs. That is not to say that I will still have a question or a problem here and there, but I hope they will be the questions that will help other newbies to this forum instead of questions that have been answered many times before, so that i don't burden the many people on this forum that use their valuable free time to share experiences as well as helping others that are just starting out like you and I to get started in this new hobby. Just remember don't take shortcuts and be safe that way one day you will be able to pay back what is being given to you today.

Hi, been doing my reading and decided i dont fancy building my first still column- i could and would but i would have to buy the tools and i tend to move every couple of years and i dont have the space

SO as per the thread- what still to BUY?- any sellers-esp uk- please msg me

Im uk based- but the shipping US to the uk isnt bad atm- need glucoamylase anyway (also cant get over here)

Ideally want a pot still column (like a bit of sippin) on a uk bought 30l sanke keg (will defo use the keg/be able to sell even if not distilling much in the future) Also the keg should run ok on the gas hob next to the sink with a bit of insulation doing this outside is not an option- neighbours etc and will be using all the std precautions

currently looking at this- http://www.milehidistilling.com/product ... steel.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

which looks lovely imho

also reckon that getting this might be needed -is it??? sure there are many reasons- more packing so increased reflux? also maybe would help if go modular- sounds cool? http://www.milehidistilling.com/2-coppe ... -ferrules/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

or would buying this be better: http://www.milehidistilling.com/diy-rea ... pper-tube/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow for the distant and future tinkering?



this the glucoamylase plus some packing and tubing is in budget-just

Am i missing anything that would be worth buying with the shipment?

It's a pot still. You won't get any noticeable reflux. I would say look at one of their 2" reflux columns. They are cm stills. Witch can be ran as both reflux or pot still. It's really nothing more then a pot still with reflux capability. That a regular pot still doesn't have. Have a look through the cm mod link in my signature. It's about those stills. If your gona pay for the shipping. Mite as well get something with a little more expansions capabilitys. So you don't need to order something else down the line.

Thanks for the quick reply- so your saying this kinda thing will be better in the long term- http://www.milehidistilling.com/2-in-di ... ece-tower/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

makes sense - also same price

i take it to run it pot mod just remove packing and reduce the towers size?- probably most of the time to fit on the hob

Just wondering if i wouldnt get a more flavourful product using the neater looking pot still head or is it so minor its not significant?

To run it pot mode. All you have to do is not use the reflux condenser. You can leave it as tall as you want. Or make it short. Can leave the packing in or take it out. You would get very minor changes in the end product. But not much.

If its the same price range. I would defiantly go that route. Get more bang for your buck. A lot of people think they only want a pot still or only a reflex still. Only to find out later they want the other.

Before you just order it. Read through that link in my signature. There are some mods mike can do that are listed in that thread. Like longer product condenser and triclamp top to get rid of the rubber plug.

I have started to get my still togather,,,bought a 22 qt SS stock pot,,
and have another pot with 8 coils of 1/2" copper
i am looking at the boiler,,, i need to cut the ss, and get threads in it,,,which brings me to my first question
i know i can silver solider/braze copper adapters to the pot...but i am thing of having ss couplings welded to it instead...i think that after i heat the copper, it will be kinda tweaky [annealed]
is the ss couplings a better idea?
and i am kicking around the idea of using an element in the bottom of the pot
if i do this,,,will putting an element in the boiler, cut down on the amount of product i can harvest
due to placment of element?

any ideas?

I had good luck with just solder to ss . I used liquid flux and put the flame right on the ss. it worked pretty easy I thought

guess i will be pratice'n on the botom, never solidered ss,,,i use c-flux...pre cleans/ pretins
and bridget leadfree
.thanks toast860

Awesome information. Working on building one of my own soon.
Thanks to this website ...

heres what i have so far..it aint much,,but i am on my way...
thinking about using 1 1/2" copper off the top off the boiler, with a gauge, and a site gauge on the side
next step....cut and weld..
your right....this site is a heap of info...i been thinking about this fo years..here we go!!!

frodo you would be better off starting your own thread about what you are doing. This thread isn't really ment for that. And if you were to start your own thread. It would get more attention for what it is. Not overlooked for what its not.

Excellent information, thank you all. I am still (no pun intended) trying to understand all the information available which is really really great.
I don't seem to find any designs or opinions on double wall stills, that is, where the mash is heated by boiling water. I have found a description in the Designs/Thumper section of Equipment which is very interesting but no pictures.
Is anybody using this system?
Seems to me it would be much more controllable. My interest is in fruit schnapps.
Thank you for your help.

mr prairiepiss..i have started my own thread in my first built....please ck it out and give me your opinion...
your experience , know how and comments are welcome...i am building and reading at same time

I want to spend no more than 500.00 anyone know of a vender who makes a great product. I am in bush Alaska.

Great info in this section, wow so much of it also..

Blessings

Hi guys, what advantage, if any, is a 3in. column over a 2in. on a pot still with 15 gal boiler? Thanks, hope I posted in correct place.

Farmboy wrote:Hi guys, what advantage, if any, is a 3in. column over a 2in. on a pot still with 15 gal boiler? Thanks, hope I posted in correct place.

A 3" column has 2.25 times the volume of a 2" column... Therefore, you could "potentially" increase your output by ~125%... It doesn't usually happen that way, however... In practical application, for example, if a 2" column produced 1 liter per hour you wouldn't necessarily end up with 2.25 liters per hour from a 3" column... Far too many variables to expect a linear increase... You'll get more but how much more will be subjective...

With a 15 gal (keg) the only benefit I see on a 3" over a 2" is the speed you can run at. I run a 2" pretty darn hot and it suits me well enough to not feel the need to go larger. it really depends on what you're doing though. Reflux? Well, you can fit more packing into a shorter column. Pot still? Blazing fast stripping runs (imo). But if you want things instant, why not just buy a bottle at the store?.... All just my opinion of course

Hi, question for the experienced distiller's. If you had a budget of 350-400, and wanted the purest, higest proof on the first run, what would you buy / build? From what I've read here, a vm or vm / Lm combo , with a tall, packed, reflux column, is whats needed. I'm looking for a boiler size that will do a 10 gallon mash. I assume a 13gal is perfect...?
Thanks to everyone that has provided this wealth of information...for free no less.

littlebrother69 wrote:Hi, question for the experienced distiller's. If you had a budget of 350-400, and wanted the purest, higest proof on the first run, what would you buy / build? From what I've read here, a vm or vm / Lm combo , with a tall, packed, reflux column, is whats needed. I'm looking for a boiler size that will do a 10 gallon mash. I assume a 13gal is perfect...?
Thanks to everyone that has provided this wealth of information...for free no less.

I'd buy a used 15.5 gallon keg and a SSR & potentiometer controller for a 5.5kW electric heater element.
I'd buy 5 feet of 2" copper and a 2" Triclover ferrule.
I'd buy some glass marbles from Hobby Lobby to use for structured packing.
I'd buy 10 feet of 3/8" corrogated stainless steel gas line.
I'd read a LOT on this website on how it works, and then...
I'd MAKE a condenser controlled vapor managed (CCVM) reflux column.

Read a while before you spend anything. Making is much better than buying...you'll get exactly what you want that way. Otherwise, its all compromise. And eventually you'll build anyway. Don't waste your time...read and build. You need patience in this hobby...the best reward is EARNED..not bought.
ss

thanks ss, a quick google search of ssr and potentiometer brought me right back to this site, lol. a deffinate must have. looking for the best price on 5' of 2.5 in. copper and a used keg. no luck on the keg and found copper at about 200$. guess a 4", 5 plate column is not really an option, lol.

littlebrother69 wrote:thanks ss, a quick google search of ssr and potentiometer brought me right back to this site, lol. a deffinate must have. looking for the best price on 5' of 2.5 in. copper and a used keg. no luck on the keg and found copper at about 200$. guess a 4", 5 plate column is not really an option, lol.

Here's a new keg source...in stock too. http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbee ... valve.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Used kegs can be hit or miss at scrap yards, if you've got the patience.

Oh, and you want 2" copper pipe, not 2-1/2" unless you want to adapt it to fit the Sanke opening (which is a match for the 2" Triclover fitting).

edit: add source for SSR & pot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/40A-SSVR-w-pote ... RK:MESE:IT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

knowing i need the copper... im now the proud owner of 10' of 2" type m. i know i could clear a 6 foot column on a 15.5gal. keg but, would i need to go that high?
electicals next on the list to get....thank you so much!

if you can do 6 foot do it, I run 78 in of packing. Do you need to go that high? Well no you don't but if you can do it. handling a rig that tall is difficult if you want to take it apart so make a plan for that.

HookLine wrote:

VM Column (50 mm).jpg

asking a question as a newbie.

i see in the drawing, it calls for a gate valve. wouldn't a full port ball valve be better ?

gate valve has a restriction, at the gate

a full port ball valve. is the same diameter all the way thru

frodo,

How about no valve? The valve will be the most expensive single part and all valves will cause a restriction, interfering with minimum reflux.

Look at the CCVM in my signature.