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rpt124 wrote:Ok what is "turb" so siphon everything's except the yeast and the solids?

"t-r-u-b", not "turb"... Trub is a mixture of yeast and unfermentable solids... We have a glossary to help with hobby related words...

Got it thanks for the info

So I ran this today. Was amazing seems everything worked out correctly....I have just one question I grabbed some to test with a hydrometer and the tester sinks right to bottom of the beaker it doesn't float. I. Wondering if my hydrometer Disent go that high or something? Any other way for me to tell how high it is?

There are hydrometers and alcometers. They are for different purposes. Hydrometers measure gravity while alcometers measure proof or %.

Do a title search on either of these terms for more information on these tools. You can also find them in the glossary: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=30458

tp

Hydrometer and alcometer look similar and work on the same principle but are calibrated and weighted differently.

Ok thanks for the reply. Does anyone have a link to a preferred Alcometer that I should purchase? I need to get one ASAP, because I have the run from the weekend that is amazing!! But i think its to high for some people as is and I wanna proof it with some water but don't wanna ruin it.

The Hydrometer I have right now, when I place it in the test tube It drops straight to the bottom, Can anyone please explain to me why that is, shouldent this still read something in the finished product?

Again thanks all for the time and diligance and answering my newbie questions. I have been doing alot of reasearch online but it seems this is the only true way to get proper and accurate answers. Thanks to all who have a hand in the site and to all who take the time to answer questions.

rpt124 wrote:Ok thanks for the reply. Does anyone have a link to a preferred Alcometer that I should purchase? I need to get one ASAP, because I have the run from the weekend that is amazing!! But i think its to high for some people as is and I wanna proof it with some water but don't wanna ruin it.

The longer the alcometer, the more accurate it should be - theoretically... Mine is in the 10 - 11 inch range... Spend good money on two of them... Mine is ancient but some members have had problems with theirs committing suicide... And mine resides in a small wooden coffin when not in use so it may think it's already dead...

rpt124 wrote:Ok thanks for the reply. Does anyone have a link to a preferred Alcometer that I should purchase? I need to get one ASAP, because I have the run from the weekend that is amazing!! But i think its to high for some people as is and I wanna proof it with some water but don't wanna ruin it.

Any of the ones from Ebay or Amazon are fine. They all work.

The Hydrometer I have right now, when I place it in the test tube It drops straight to the bottom, Can anyone please explain to me why that is, shouldent this still read something in the finished product?

When driving your car you don't use the gas gauge to tell how hot the coolant is, do you?

tp

Ok so would a Proof and traille hydrometer be the same thing? My local Beer store has both one called hydrometers which are used to measure alcohol and a proof and traille hydrometer. Will I the Proof and Traille Hydrometer do the same thing?

Get two of each. They break easily. One is for distillate % the other is for measuring the gravity of your ferment.

tp

Ok is one of these going to handle what the alcometer will and tell me the proof of it?

Yes.
Please do some research rather than taking this thread further off topic.

tp

What a fantastic drink Im sippin on.

I used Fintstones method on page 95.

Basically--three 5 gal. wash stripping runs--then a spirit run using his method of collecting at 300 ml. I aged in a barrel for a month. I have a 5 gal pot still.

thank you Flintstone. This is the smoothest spirit I have ever made.. I aged in a new 3L barrel. I was on vacation for 3 weeks and put it in the barrel 1 week before. Its being bottled now.
Got to get a new mash going,

Since this method is not pasteurized how long can the wash ferment without going bad? I can get the liquid out and put it in my settling bucket in the fridge if that will help. Recipie says 3-4 days till it's ready I need about 10 days in this case.

Keep it airlocked and it'll be fine

I use a loose lid can, well covered but not airlocked. Am I still okay?

Another quick question. I started this about 36 hours ago, I used a dry ale yeast, I noticed that wasn't the recommended one on the recipie. But it isn't bubbling from the bottom like most my all grain recipies. Should I be worried? It was about 60f when I started but it has been at 70f for about 24 hours. Do sugar washes ferment different (visually) than AG? This is my first sugar based wash. And I do not use an airlock. The yeast should work regardless right?

Ok so if still have the wash from my boiler that was left after I was done running but I did not add it into the fermenter can I still use it? My next run can I just mix the new wash with the old in the boiler and be ok? Or will it ruin it?

Rctime wrote:What a fantastic drink Im sippin on.

I used Fintstones method on page 95.

Basically--three 5 gal. wash stripping runs--then a spirit run using his method of collecting at 300 ml. I aged in a barrel for a month. I have a 5 gal pot still.

thank you Flintstone. This is the smoothest spirit I have ever made.. I aged in a new 3L barrel. I was on vacation for 3 weeks and put it in the barrel 1 week before. Its being bottled now.
Got to get a new mash going,

While I'd love to take credit, all credit goes to uncle Jessie and the others on this site for providing great information. All I did was read and follow advice. Damn good stuff! After little over a year I'm just about ready to try an all grain but I can't seem to stop this one!

So does anyon have an answer on that? I have the wash from the first run that was left in the boiler. I already have another mash fermenting. When I go to run that can I just mix te old in with the new in the boiler?

Why would you want to put the last run's backset back into the boiler with the next wash? Is there something in it you want?

Backset from your stripping run is used when you dilute for the spirit run and to add to the next ferment at up to 25% of the ferments volume. Any backset left over after that you just toss.

Why would you add backset to a spirit run? That would defeat the purpose of doing a stripping run. Usually fresh wash or clean water is used to dilute the spirit run. After all. You just separated the good from the bad. Why would you mix them back together?

Tokoroa_Shiner wrote:Why would you add backset to a spirit run? That would defeat the purpose of doing a stripping run. Usually fresh wash or clean water is used to dilute the spirit run. After all. You just separated the good from the bad. Why would you mix them back together?

While not widely practiced here, there are those who use backset in small quantities for the spirit run. The esteemed and well respect Harry was the one who mentioned it in a post either here or there. I have done it, its much better than using water with the caveat that you want the backset to be relatively fresh and have no off flavors. I expect to hear from the naysayers who have never tried it any minute now

cheers
stilly

Shouldn't be that controversial, using the fresh backset in the spirit run simply adds more flavor to the likker, using water strips the flavor. Anything "bad" still stays in the boiler because that's what distilling does!

I have always heard to push more flavor over on a spirit run use fresh wash to dilute your strip runs to below the maximum 40% abv for a boiler charge. At least that is what i am planning on doing. YMMV
ez

I imagine fresh wash is good to use too, I just don't have the luxury of doing more than one 5 gal. ferment at a time! I wonder though if fresh wash would increase the ABV enough to require more dilution of the final product, negating the flavor benefits?

One Sock wrote:Shouldn't be that controversial, using the fresh backset in the spirit run simply adds more flavor to the likker, using water strips the flavor. Anything "bad" still stays in the boiler because that's what distilling does!

He isn't asking about using backset to proof the spirit run. He is asking about putting it into the boiler with the next wash.

I have never understood why people get all bent out of shape over. Adding backset to dilute the low wines for a spirit run. But yet many will add dunder to a spirit run of rum. It's all about flavor and higher ABV. It's really simple if you just look past your blinders. Just one of the many ways to skin the cat.

Diluting with backset will give you a more flavorful spirit then fresh wash.
Think about it. Those flavors are more concentrated in the backset then a new wash. And water has none.

If diluted to the same ABV. As you would with new wash. You will get the same ABV out.

I have had this argument. With many people. That can't see past the fact that your adding what you worked hard to remove. Back in. And thats all they concentration on. They can't see what the actual effects of doing it is. Because like many things in this hobby. They have their blinders on.

Keep an open mind. What works for one maynot work for you. But that doesn't make them wrong. It just makes them different. And if everyone made everything the same exact way. This planet would be a boring place.

Experiment open your mind. You never know. You might just find something you like.

Good point PP, I guess i need to save more backset then what i have been. What your saying is worth a shot. Ya just never know might find the "secret" ingredient.
ez