Home Distiller

If you extended the feed pipe to give more volume of charge it might help if you use the 4" tubing. This would allow you to raise the 2" to 3" reducer and increase the volume.


OD

olddog wrote:If you extended the feed pipe to give more volume of charge it might help if you use the 4" tubing.

Yep caught that all ready.

With 5' of 4" tubing, how many chambers are you going to have?
I think this design is going to work extremely well. All of the principles are correct, and I think you are going to be pleasantly supprised with the result.

OD

OD I picked up 9' of 4"

I was thinking maybe the liquid chamber/jacket would be 24" to 30" with 3 compartments.

Say your illistrations have been upgraded ay?

That was a steal, 45 $$$

LWTCS wrote:OD I picked up 9' of 4"

LWTCS wrote:Say your illistrations have been upgraded ay?

Got windoze 7 now, the paint section is a lot better and easier.

BTW you could put 4 chambers in that length and make it really interesting.

OD

Say. I am going to solder the base of the bubble cap(s) to the liquid chamber divider/separator. Then drill 1/8 holes around the perimeter base for vapor escape (like Rednose's bubble caps). In other words, solder to the floor of each stage/chamber.

I recon since I will use 18 ounce sheet copper for the end caps and dividers, doing this will createa bit more stout.

Can you reflect that on your illustration?

olddog wrote:BTW you could put 4 chambers in that length and make it really interesting.

It would,, wouldn't it? But remember,I'm gonna mount this on the Humper Thumper.
That would make 4Xs distilled and quite tall to boot.

LWTCS wrote:Can you reflect that on your illustration?

You mean like this.

The only problem with this is that the thumper charge would syphon back to the lower level. The previous illustration with the three inch section extended would maintain a charge level which then would only be limited by the height of the downcomer which is not shown in the illustration.
The base of the three inch section could still be drilled with vapor escape holes and the soldered to the base as required.

OD

Yes perfect.

Shoot Mike, yer good at that.

You should illustrate the entire apparatus.
Wish I knew how to "paint"

rednose wrote:That was a steal, 45 $$$

LWTCS wrote:
OD I picked up 9' of 4"

Guy said that peice has been laying on the floor under the regular sticks for years and years. Said no one uses it and he was tired of looking at it. When he said 5 bucks per foot I got a tickle in the place that should not be discussed with out modesty

Figger to hold some for pumpman if he can use any. The rest I will hold and massage and polish and write poems to and..................

olddog wrote:The only problem with this is that the thumper charge would syphon back to the lower level. The previous illustration with the three inch section extended would maintain a charge level which then would only be limited by the height of the downcomer which is not shown in the illustration.
The base of the three inch section could still be drilled with vapor escape holes and the soldered to the base as required.

Oh, didn't realize you changed it that much. I only meant to extend the 3" to the floor. Not move the fitting down

LWTCS wrote:You should illustrate the entire apparatus.

Here you go then, sorry its not as good as someone like Decoy can do
. The last downcomer from the bottom chamber requires an "S" trap to return to the boiler, otherwise the bottom chamber could flood from returning liquid.

OD

Could someone add a few arrows to explain the liquid and vapour flow and an explaination of what is happenning.

I am still a newbie and can't quite get my head around the process.

If you understand how a thumper works it's not hard to understand, the vapor rises from the boiler up the center tube and comes out of the orange hole. It then escapes from the holes at the bottom of the larger tube inside of the thumper. This charge liquifies and is reboiled with the resultant vapor escaping through the top hole in this chamber, and proceeds to the next chamber above. This results in a second then third then fourth distilation before exiting through the tube at the top which would lead to a condenser.
I have added the internal tube lines to the illustration, it might be a bit easier to understand now.

OD

I think I'm getting the idea.

Is the inside tube continuous as it narrows?

I'm not sure how I would go about building it as it looks quite complex.

I have just modified the illustration which should be clearer to understand.

OD

olddog wrote:I have just modified the illustration which should be clearer to understand.

OD

Thanks for that - It makes sense now.

Does the liquid have to be in place before it will work properly?
Is it left there for next time??
What sort of dimensions were you considering for this build???

There would be a charge port at the top of each chamber, to be charged with wash prior to distilling.

ty-tek wrote:What sort of dimensions were you considering for this build???

Have a chat with LWTCS he is building this unit.

OD

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... e#p6799901

ty-tek,
This is the original drawing that Hawke put together for me.
It may help to clarify the vapor path for you......Then just imagine a couple more chambers stacked atop each other.

I now see why they are called thumpers

I bet they make a racket when they are running!!!

Mine thumps a good bit till she settles in.
But I have a floating bubble cap.

I have only ever driven mine and never seen a conventional thumper in action.

OD, does the Frankenstill make any racket?

What I did today:

Layout and mockup is pretty important.

Much like Ozone's recent build, this is a layered assembly and has to be put together sequentially.

Installing corresponding layout marks on each peice to insure proper alignment when assembled

The stops on the fittings drill out very nicely with some cutting oil and a forsner bit.

Still need to cut some:
*bubble cap extension peices
*end caps/chamber separation peices.

I have all the stuff for the fill/drain port assebly already.
I also did the layout and cut holes for the ports and also layout and cut holes for the downcomers.

Anybody have a problem with me using 1/4" for the downcomers as thats what I have on hand.
Also, Do anybody recon an "S" bend should be requisite for every downcomer?

LWTCS wrote:Anybody have a problem with me using 1/4" for the downcomers as thats what I have on hand.
Also, Do anybody recon an "S" bend should be requisite for every downcomer?

I was thinking either 1/4" or 3/8"... If your downcomer ends in the thumper precharge in the chamber below I wouldn't think that an S trap would be needed...

Looks good Larry.

Man, drilling a hole in the 4" beauty should hurt, especially if the hole should have been 2 cm higher, lol.

The downcomers I would use 3/8 as Rad mentioned, 1/4 could be small depending how heavy you fire the rig.

I'm just talking from feeling or let's say common sense no calcs made.

Larry, does the last overflow/return marked "to boiler" return liquid all the way to the bottom of the boiler so as not to become the path of least resistance for the vapor?

S&S

Slow & Steady wrote:Larry, does the last overflow/return marked "to boiler" return liquid all the way to the bottom of the boiler so as not to become the path of least resistance for the vapor?

S&S

No. I am going to put an 'S' bend,,,,,,,,,or more specifically a 'Pee" trap on the bottom return line and tie it in to the base of the column just above the connection to the "Humper Thumper".

I would consider 1/4" to be a bit small for the returns, 3/8" or even 1/2" would be better for efficiency and cleaning after a run.
Because the return terminates below the charge level in the lower chamber, an S bend or P trap would not be required for the returns on the column, only the one returning to the boiler. These are not downcomers in the true sense, more like charge level limiters.

OD

olddog wrote:or even 1/2"

Got plenty of that kicking around. Just no 3/8.

Bet I could dump some input into the boiler with 1/2" overflows. Hmmmm.

Got some soft drawn and ridgid 1/2".