Page 2 of 4

Brass

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:41 pm
by Workerbee47
Yes, the brass needle valve's will be fine, no problem

Copper Pipe

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:49 pm
by Workerbee47
Ok, I do not know where this went the first time, but here it is again, Conquistidor, go to ebay and look for item#7569678602, and you will find 3pc's of 3" copper pipe 19" long, and they are only about 35 miles from me, I do not know where they were at when I needed them, but here they are now. Go and take a look. Good Luck.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:52 pm
by Conquistidor
yeah, $75 for the 3" is part of the reason i think im gonna stick with a 2" conderser.

thanks for the info.

Copper Pipe

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:59 pm
by Workerbee47
Conquistidor, Maybe you do not need all 3, see if he will sell one? at $75.00 for all 3 that comes out to $15.79 per ft. that is what a plumber friend of mine pays for it at his cost (his is $16.00 per ft.). Even if you bought all 3, that is only $25.00 each, plus shipping, you could probably sell the other two right here on this site, there is always someone looking to build one of these stills, and they are all looking for 3" copper, someone would be glad to give you $35.00 for one, I would think, would have saved me a lot of leg work if you were offering it when I was looking for mine. By the way if you like I can send you some pictures of mine, if you think it will help you.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:12 pm
by Conquistidor
some pictures would be awesome espcially zoomed in on the head/ condensor section. ill send the guy an email and see what he says about the one 3" pipe.

thanks

3" Copper pipe

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:20 pm
by Workerbee47
Ok, Here is another one, go to this forum and click on classified ads, and scroll down to (3" copper pipe anyone need some) He wants $12.00 per ft. plus shipping.

Copper Mesh

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:28 pm
by Workerbee47
Conquistidor, Here is another site you can get the copper mesh at go to http://www.Brewhaus.com onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow they are in TX. It is $12.50 for 30ft.

Pictures

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:36 pm
by Workerbee47
Ok, here is 3 or 4 pictures of my condenser and the column w/condenser-Image--------------------------------------------------------Image------------------------------------------------------------------------------Image------------------------------------------------------------------------------Image------------------------------------------------------------------------------ImageOk there they are, I guess that I sent 5, hope that is not too much.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 9:38 pm
by Conquistidor
sweet. thanks for the pics. they help a lot.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 9:59 pm
by decoy
as i said before Workerbee47 very nice its easy to see you take pride in your work.

What i would like to see more on this site is photos of peoples work and what they think was achived in doing it the way they did.

Thanx for taking the time in posting those images, and you can never post to many.

I like looking at other peoples work expecialy if it is done well.. cheers.

I noticed the bike is not quite as shiny as the column tho, the missus been slaking of a bit... :roll:

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:44 pm
by Conquistidor
how much copper 1/4" copper tubing should i get? 30' or 50'?

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:21 am
by jbrew9999
I've got left over copper mesh just like amphora's that I'd love to sell you. I just want back what I paid for it (about $8 for enough for 3ft of 2" pipe). See my "Extra copper mesh packing" thread in the classified section. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1395

[/url]

1/4" Copper tubing

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:28 pm
by Workerbee47
Conquistidor, As for your question about how much 1/4" tubing to use. That picture you see of my coil, the one with the two yellow plastic ends on it, is a 20' coil, I did not cut anything off of it, that is what 20' will look like once it is coiled up, then I just pulled it apart a little, so that there was about 1/8" spaceing between each coil so the vapors could get through there a little better. Hope that helps you out, If you have any other questions, just ask, will be glad to answer any that I can.

workman ship

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:35 pm
by Workerbee47
Decoy, Once again thanks for the compliment, it is much appreciated, glad you like it. Thanks again.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:26 pm
by Conquistidor
now the big question is how am i going to make a hole in the lid of a ss pot? attaching it seems a bit difficult, but possible.

A thing of beauty

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:52 pm
by Spiritmaker
Hey Workerbee47, man you really live up to your name! That is one sweet piece of work you have there. I mean the whole assembly is really an example of fine work and I don't think I would be far off base to call this a work of art!
Love to have one mysely, but I'm mostly all thumbs (or toes, as th case may be) when it comes to doing finished work. Generally, if it works, I'm happy with it, but you do it right!
Spiritmaker

Cutting hole in SS

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:08 pm
by Workerbee47
Not a problem, I used my hand powered jigsaw with a bimetal blade in it, I bought the blades at Home Depot, they were cheap, and one blade did the job with no problem at all.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:19 pm
by Workerbee47
Hey Spiritmaker, Thanks for the compliment, I sure do appreciate it, I do like to take pride in the things that I make, and I do enjoy building things, and I do want them to look good, Thanks Again, and by the way, don't just be a guest, join the forum, we are all real easy to get along with, and would love to have you on board.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:55 pm
by OldStormy
Hi Workerbee,
Congrats on a bloody good job. Did you use your jigsaw and bi-metal blade to cut the top of the keg out? Looks like I have scored a keg so the couple of ss pots will be a standby.
Cheers,
OldStormy

Cutting Keg Out

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:31 am
by Workerbee47
Hey OldStormy, Yes, I did use my Jig-Saw to cut out the SS-Keg, and it worked real good, the back of the saw was always up against the upper part of the keg where the handles are at to make the circle, so if the hole would have been any bigger it may have been a problem, but the blade handled it just fine, and was still a good blade when I was done, just take your time, and do not push it. I started the hole by cutting a slot in the top of the keg with a 4" hand grinder, that gave me room to get my blade into the top of the keg, and away I went cutting. And thanks for the compliment about my work.

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:48 pm
by Chub
That does look nice One question how did you attach the bowl to the keg? That is where I am now, I was thinking about tiging studs to the top. I will have to look at the thickness of the keg first when I cut the hole. The plan said threaded inserts I never used them. Thanks Chub

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:16 pm
by Uncle Remus
This is what I did. Installed a Nutsert, which is a threaded 1/4" hole that is installed similar to the way you would install a pop rivet, then I threaded a 1/4" SS bolt in from inside. The bowl is then held down by a washer and wing nut. Make sense??
Image

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:07 pm
by Conquistidor
how much room should i leave in the boiler for foam (i am using sugar wash most of the time, at leas initally). I was thinking around the 5 gallon range. Will a stock pot off ebay be a good choice for a bioler? example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUGE-20-Quart-STAIN ... dZViewItem" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

thanks

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:46 am
by Uncle Remus
With a sugar wash I fill it within a couple inches of the top, it won't foam much. I've found barly/malt washes to foam the worst, if your running one of these give it at least 8" of head space or so.

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:58 am
by stoker
Conquistidor wrote:how much room should i leave in the boiler for foam (i am using sugar wash most of the time, at leas initally). I was thinking around the 5 gallon range. Will a stock pot off ebay be a good choice for a bioler? example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUGE-20-Quart-STAIN ... dZViewItem" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

thanks
do you then have an easy way to close the pot? exept this methode http://homedistiller.org/image/mini_explained.jpg
your choice

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:23 am
by Hillbilly Rebel
Workerbee47, that's beautiful work. But what I want to know is how do you keep your garage that neat?

Bowl to Boiler

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:02 am
by Workerbee47
Here is how I had attached my bowl to my boiler, I should have taked this picture a little closer, I did kind of the same thing except that the bent part of the washer goes down to the keg, to make the washer a little more level for the wing nut to come into contact with, I also used 8 SS bolts, instead of the 4, because the top of the keg was not just right, and it did not pull down the same all the way around, the bolts come up from inside the keg, and then there is a jam nut that screws down on to the bolt to hold the bolt on the keg, you can not see the nut as it is under the large washer, you just see the wing nut and the washer. A jam nut by the way is a thinner nut then a normal nut, so it fits under the washer better. If you would like a closer shot of this let me know and I will take one.------Image

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:12 am
by Workerbee47
Hi Hillbilly Rebel, Thanks, as for the garage, well It is heated, so it is always warm out there, so I can work on a snowmobile, or get all the snow and ice melted off my truck when it comes in from plowing snow, and the heat is in the floor, with a drain that runs the length of the garage, so it is easy to just hose the floor down and take a 3' squeege to it and it is dry in no time. The real story is that my wife has a real big stick, and she likes to swing it.

Size of Boiler

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:36 am
by Workerbee47
Conquistidor, I do not think that it is big enough, but that is just my opinion, I was going to use something smaller and I'm glad I did not, as you can see from my pictures I use a 15.5 gal. beer keg, they are heavey SS and will last for ever. Here is how to get one, go to the scrap yard and see if they have any, I had no luck doing that, so I went down to my local liquior store where I know the owner and told him what I was going to do and he let me have it for what the deposit is on one, that was $12.00, so if that does not work for you eather go down and just buy a keg of beer, pay for the keg and the deposit, have a bunch of friends over to drink all the beer (that should not be a problem finding enough people to drink 15.5gal's of beer) and do not return the keg, you will be out your 12 or $15.00 deposit, but you will have a keg that runs about $35.00 or so on ebay plus another $30.00 or so to ship it, there and I'm not even a rocket scientist, and if you do not have any friends, just invite about 25 people over, or if you do not know 25 people, just put a sign in your front yard that reads FREE BEER TILL IS's GONE, and you will have lots of friends, at least for a few hours till the beer is gone, and that is the goal anyhow, to empty the keg so you can get on with using it for what you want it for. JUST LET ME KNOW IF I CAN BE OF ANYMORE HELP

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 2:46 pm
by Chub
Thanks Workerbee I understand perfectly what you did that was what I was going to do and I would have if I would have known that it would not leak at the bolts. Anyhway I just cut some s/s studs on a taper and tig welded them to the top. I found also that 4 was not enough and I went with 6 I was fortinate to have some s/s clips that were the right ofset to make it level and had a small lip to grab the lip of the bowl. Also how do you post pics?Chub