Home Distiller

Posted: **Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:54 pm**

Wormbiscuit wrote:Yee Haw Cowboys! These mods kick some serious butt! I just finished a run 'bout an hour ago. I consistently get 92 to 94% with my Mile Hi. I would like to thank the Bayou-Ruler for tips with the re-circ pump and reflectix insulation...I will now try to split the water controls to the reflux condenser & liebig/product condenser for greater control. I haven't attempted a "pot still" run with the column yet. Good to know that I don’t have to remove all the packing. I always back flush the column and packing after a run…how many runs until I should replace the copper mesh?

Congratulations on your successful run! It's always nice to look at them jars full of clear clean lickker!!

Glad that you found my tips useful!

Again congratulations and have fun!.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:26 pm**

I just got my new BH II and set it up in my basement to see how it all fit together.

Can anyone explain where I should be packing the column? In the bottom extention? Or in the top?

Should I wrap the copper around the cooling lines?

Also, at the top of my extentino piece there is a little bit of stainless mesh. Whats its purpose?

Should the centering ring be on top of the packing or below?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:38 pm**

beer-baron wrote:I just got my new BH II and set it up in my basement to see how it all fit together.

Can anyone explain where I should be packing the column? In the bottom extention? Or in the top?
In the column from under the cooling tubes to the bottom where it connects to the boiler.
Should I wrap the copper around the cooling lines?
Maybe a little and loose.

Also, at the top of my extentino piece there is a little bit of stainless mesh. Whats its purpose?
I'm assuming its part of the extension? And it covers one end? That would be the bottom. It is probably ment to keep the packing from falling into the boiler.
Should the centering ring be on top of the packing or below?
I will refer you to the diagrams in the first post. I included them in it.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:58 pm**

Prairiepiss wrote:
beer-baron wrote:I just got my new BH II and set it up in my basement to see how it all fit together.

Can anyone explain where I should be packing the column? In the bottom extention? Or in the top?
In the column from under the cooling tubes to the bottom where it connects to the boiler.
Should I wrap the copper around the cooling lines?
Maybe a little and loose.

Also, at the top of my extentino piece there is a little bit of stainless mesh. Whats its purpose?
I'm assuming its part of the extension? And it covers one end? That would be the bottom. It is probably ment to keep the packing from falling into the boiler.
Should the centering ring be on top of the packing or below?
I will refer you to the diagrams in the first post. I included them in it.

Great. Thanks for answering. So I guess I'll need to cut my copper mesh. so that I can put a little around the cooling lines. Then have a centering ring, and put the rest of the packing underneith it.

I didn't realize that was the bottom! I guess I should flip the column around.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 2:00 pm**

Place the rolls of copper mesh in both sections of the column. Make and pack some balls of copper mesh around the cooling cross tubes. The section with the stainless mesh welded to it gos towards the boiler and is indeed to keep the packing from falling into the boiler.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 2:04 pm**

beer-baron wrote:
Prairiepiss wrote:
beer-baron wrote:I just got my new BH II and set it up in my basement to see how it all fit together.

Can anyone explain where I should be packing the column? In the bottom extention? Or in the top?
In the column from under the cooling tubes to the bottom where it connects to the boiler.
Should I wrap the copper around the cooling lines?
Maybe a little and loose.

Also, at the top of my extentino piece there is a little bit of stainless mesh. Whats its purpose?
I'm assuming its part of the extension? And it covers one end? That would be the bottom. It is probably ment to keep the packing from falling into the boiler.
Should the centering ring be on top of the packing or below?
I will refer you to the diagrams in the first post. I included them in it.
Great. Thanks for answering. So I guess I'll need to cut my copper mesh. so that I can put a little around the cooling lines. Then have a centering ring, and put the rest of the packing underneith it.

I didn't realize that was the bottom! I guess I should flip the column around.

well it would have been immediately obvious had you used ceramic raschig rings as column filler.....

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:17 am**

great info guys!! thanks a bunch! answered ALOT of noob questions i had about the PS II HC i just puchased.

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:34 pm**

For any one reading this before buying a unit, a longer condensor is not needed in my opinion.

It has the cooling capacity, not the required surface area. I noticed a small amount of vapor escaping from the condensor when run stock. It also (vapor) stunk up my garage. So I kinda killed two birds with one stone!

SB

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:39 pm**

short bus wrote:For any one reading this before buying a unit, a longer condensor is not needed in my opinion. It has the cooling capacity, not the required surface area. I noticed a small amount of vapor escaping from the condensor when run stock. It also (vapor) stunk up my garage. So I kinda killed two birds with one stone!

SB

Well now, it all depends on how hard you intend to push ur rig. Its is a FACT that the 24 inch liebig will knock down more vapor than the 12inch one.

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:02 pm**

+1 on BR.

Posted: **Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:47 am**

I would like to add a little to this thread. It has been asked a few times lately which still to buy. A Mile High duel purpose or a Brewhaus PSII.

First let me say. The very first answer you will receive when asking this question is. Build your own. You can build a hell of a still for as much as your going to pay for either one of them. I don't disagree with this answer. I do however realize building a still is not for everyone. If you don't have the skills or tools to do the job. I don't blame you for not wanting to build one. I will also say building your still can be very rewarding. And should be at least considered.
Now if you have the skills and or tools and you just want to buy one because you don't have time to build one. If you don't have time to build one? You don't have time to run one. And maybe this is not a hobby for you. It takes a big chunk of time to prepare a ferment and then distill that ferment. Be prepared for a 12 to 14 hour day for a spirit run. That you need to be present for the whole time. Maning the still. Safety can't be compromised in this hobby.
You will also get the owners of each saying they like their still. Nobody I know of has bought both of them and done a head to head comparison. So what's that gona help you? Most information is covered in this thread. If you can't decipher it. Maybe you need to do some more research?

Now we got that over with. Let's look at the two stills. It's pretty simple. They are both CM stills. This has been pointed out in the first post. The only differences are the reflux condensers. Which is also covered in the first post. So which one is better? This will depend on who is answering the question.

Jacketed condensers put the reflux falling down the outside of the column. They have a lot more cooling surface area then the through tubes. But also don't have much turbulence to make sure the vapors make contact with that surface. So vapors can bypass through the center.

Through tube condensers have a smaller cooling surface area. But they are in the vapor path so contact with the vapors are more likely. The reflux will ne falling across the width of the column. If it is level. And not consistent. Nothing to direct it to the center.

As you can see they both have their points. Which is better? Does it really matter at this point? They both will achieve 100% reflux. As reported by owners of both. What more do you want?

Both will be greatly improved with the mods outlined in this thread. And will make them pretty much equal.

Brewhaus will reportedly will modify and add a longer product condenser and a triclamp flange on top of the column. As outlined by BR. Nobody has mentioned if Mile High will do this or not? I don't even know if anyone has asked? So its something to look into.

Basically I'm saying buy one. And get to stillin. Don't over think it. Just chose one already. You will learn to drive which ever one you get. Just do it.

Here is a prime example of what you will get if you ask this question in the open forum.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=27229

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 5:45 pm**

I've contacted Mile Hi and Brewhaus about some of the mods you guys are talking about. Brewhaus will add the 24" liebig for $15. Mile Hi will do it too but he didn't discuss a price. Both have great customer service!

Does anyone know why they don't use a copper vapor line? I don't work with metals so that might be tougher to weld but it seems like copper would be much better.

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 5:49 pm**

Connecting the two would be a little tougher then just tigging SS. And SS is a lot sturdier.

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:04 pm**

I'm not sure I'm getting the right result from the numbers but copper is twice as efficient at thermal transfer according to random and bad research I did online. Does that sound right?

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:15 pm**

Yes copper somewhere around there. What you trying to get at here?

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:16 pm**

haha, I'm not phishing or anything. You would never see a 6 inch copper liebig. I guess I'm saying it seems like the companies would know that's too short.

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:25 pm**

6" liebig? Still not getting it?

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:26 pm**

if stainless is half as efficient it would need to be twice as long.

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 7:20 pm**

Stainless is still efficient enough you wouldn't tell much difference. If any in that situation. And vapor speed and contact have a lot to do with it to.

Posted: **Wed Feb 08, 2012 7:24 pm**

OK, gotcha. That's one of the reasons I liked the storebought kind. All stainless is very durable.

Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:48 pm**

I did many of the mods listed here and am of great appreciation! Thank you to all who have added input.

I would like to see some ideas on a gin basket mod if possible.

For reference, I am running a Mile High style. Very well worth the money for those with no tig skills (I am a gas welding guy and just can't get the tig down :=( )

Posted: **Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:27 am**

I'm glad the mods are working for you.

A good easy gin basket type mod is Old dogs gin clip. He uses it at the base of the column. But if wanted it could be adapted for the top of a mile high or PSII still. Check it out.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 16&t=10003

Posted: **Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:56 am**

When making gin on my Brewhaus rig, I simply put the ground up botanicals in a fine mesh bag, in fact a hop bag used in homebrewing, and place that on top of the cooling pipes, right next to the exit tube.

This has been working perfectly fine for me.

Posted: **Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:14 am**

Any members with a Mile High still, add hose quick connections to the reflux & product condenser water cooling lines?

The 2 methods I'm looking into:

1. Push-on quick connectors 1/2" to 1/2".

2. Threading the SS input & output tubes with a 1/2" die and use female connector.

These would be connected to a water manifold to control the reflux & product condensers separately. Any suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks,

Posted: **Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:20 am**

I use the 3/8" ones on my still. After repeated use (removal/reinstall) they start leaking. So the end if the tube needs to be cut off. If the tube is in a bind pushing it to one side it will leak too. You would need to find a compression fitting to fit your water connections on your still. They are stainless pipe and I'm not sure what size? Stainless is measured different then copper. You would need 3/8" or better tube to get good flow. The ones you have pictured look like 1/4"? That would be on the small side and not have enough flow.

Posted: **Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:28 am**

Prairiepiss wrote:They are stainless pipe and I'm not sure what size? Stainless is measured different then copper.

Got the calipers out and the SS tube is 1/2" OD.

I'm still playing around with some design ideas for the water cooling. Including threading the SS condensers input & output tubes, quick release fittings and a all copper permanent setup.

Posted: **Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:48 am**

Well when you get it done and tested. Let us know how it goes. Pots of these stills out there. And good improvements are always welcome.

Posted: **Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:19 am**

Posted: **Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:19 am**

This is a helpful post thks

Posted: **Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:32 pm**

very helpful post , my question is though instead of running my line seperate in order to keep the amount of garden hoses i have routed into my garage to a minimum could i not just put a needle valve inline between my product condenser outlet and reflux jacket input and then run water wide open to my product condenser, wish i had found this thread sooner although have made a lot of these mods on my own from trial and error but still do find fine tuning the temp at the top of my still to be challenging and find myself spending along time trying to balance out water flow and adjusting my burner to acheive this , my still is the mighty mini from mile hi with a 12inch extension making it an overall 32 inches and a half keg boiler and i use a turkey fryer burner to heat it,i acheive good percentages now but am always looking to improve my output

Home Distiller

CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PSII.

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS

Re: CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PS