Home Distiller

any recommendations? I have a 15.5 gallon keg I want to add heating elements....thinking maybe two to speed up the warming up step but if it is not cost effective then no. I had plans to use a turkey/crawfish boiler as the heat source but seems that the heating element is the way to go.

So can you have your plug run to one box, then have two leads coming out? One on an on/off switch, and one with a adjustable knob? (two for heating and one for cooking)

you can pretty much go with whatever you desire. Just need to be aware of the demands on your electrical supply, I have yet to run this keg but from my calcs I should be able to bring 10-12 gallons up to temp in under an hour no problem. I have a 4500 watt element
If time is the biggest concern then distilling is not a great hobby in my opinion.

Bellybuster,

I agree on the time thing......just figured if it is cost worthy to have two elements to heat up 10-12 gallons then back down to one to cook, why not....Is there ant elements and controllers recommended ?

with the element, I'd go with ultra low watt density, they last longer and wont scortch anything due to the large surface area. They can also be accidentally dry fired occasionally without damage.
Controller? Just search this site for a while, you'll find dozens.
For 10 -12 gallons, most go with a 4500-5500 watt element, trying to run more than one of those is gonna take some serious power and I doubt the effort would be worth the gain. I guess you could add a 110volt element but I dont think the small time savings would be worth the effort now the expense

Thanks BellyBuster I will do some searching today and try to location an element and controller..

this is my element, I would have preferred a 5500 watt one but they are hard to find in Canada
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02923-Heate ... a+low+watt

What controller are you using for this element . Will the harbor freight one that the gentleman made on here be fine.

It will work but since its only on 110v you'll only get 25 percent of the power like maybe 1300 watts.

I'm building a controller from cheap Chinese parts, its not done yet.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... d#p7048251

I mistakenly bought the wrong plug end and need to get out to get a new one, also waiting for a dual volts and amps meter to arrive

So I have a small question about the fitting you screw the element in and weld to the keg.... Soldering seems a little chincy to me... Does it hold up to being tightened when you screw in the element and not break? I would probably want to tit weld it if I had the access, but I had another thought. What about a bulkhead fitting? At first I was thinking of just bolting a flange to the inside/outside and just cork it up for a gasket, then my brother suggested a bulkhead fitting. As far as I can think of right now, this would be a perfect substitute for someone who doesn't have access to welding equipment and doesn't want to solder the fitting in. So I guess the small question I have is....would I need a Teflon gasket for the inside of the boiler if I can't get a good seal by just tightening it up? Or could I get away with using a rubber/plastic/cork gasket because it won't ever be in contact with ethanol vapors? I believe the only reason we don't use them is because of the vapor, not the liquid. Or would it be better to stear clear of synthetics period except for PFTE. (which someone found an AWESOME link to Teflon gaskets http://www.drillspot.com/plumbing/gaskets/?brandid=3987" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow not even ganna try and take credit for that find) but this seems like an ecceptable method to me.

The soldering is completely solid, no worries at all. I cranked my element in tight. I am 100% confident that the soldering is good.
Problem with bulkhead fittings is you need access to inside of keg.

Thanks BB!
Very informative and easy to follow!

If the plumbing supply house has the 1" NPT 1/2 Coupling, ill be trying to put one on my keg monday!

Good luck! It really is easier than normal soldering of copper joints

Ill try soldering it, if the plumbing supply house has some flux that will work on stainless.
If not, i know a girl who can tig weld.

mine was a pita i accidently cut the hole too big and my solder kept falling through but finally got it

Well I was planning on cutting an 8" hole on top for the bowl the column is going to fit on, so just use that to reach inside...hut if its $80+ for a SS bulkhead lime I'm seeing, might go back to soldering....

BB great video and great money saver! Question if I wanted to silver solder in a triclamp ferrel and make the element easy to take in and out would that work the same way? Have you done one? I would love to see a video on that. If exactly same except size no video needed. That wasn't even map gas right. Looked like strait propane?
You give the go ahead and I pop 2 or 3 holes in my keg and get to silver soldering. I was going to pay someone to tig and then there goes someone knowing what I am doing. Thanks for video and thanks for the post.

Why don't more people use bolt-in heater elements? It seems so much easier.

the reason is simple, choices

Belly buster if I wanted to silver solder in a triclamp ferrel and make the element easy to take in and out would that work the same way? Have you done one? I would love to see a video on that. If exactly same except size no video needed. That wasn't even map gas right. Looked like strait propane?
You give the go ahead and I pop 2 or 3 holes in my keg and get to silver soldering. I was going to pay someone to tig and then there goes someone knowing what I am doing. Thanks for video and thanks for the post.

BB, how long does your element take to get, say 10 gal up to operating temp? I'm going to use my Cajun cooker for now, but would like to convert to electric later for better control and lower the still height when running a boka head.

HB, I haven't tried a ferrule, difference with it is it is a thinner material so I would think some preheating on the keg side would be necessary but I would still do it pretty much the same. Big thing is to avoid hitting the actual fluxed area with the flame. I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

talon, I haven't timed it actually but I'd guess around 30 minutes??

bcboyz86 wrote:Well I was planning on cutting an 8" hole on top for the bowl the column is going to fit on, so just use that to reach inside...hut if its $80+ for a SS bulkhead lime I'm seeing, might go back to soldering....

Why do you feel compelled to have to be able to reach inside the boiler...??? It just makes it harder to achieve a good seal... No need in scrubbing the boiler out because it's already been cleaned and sterilized by the boiling wash and alcohol vapor... Take a look around here and you'll discover than less than half of the keg boilers have had the tops molested...

Hmmm. I was kind of thinking of not doing a hole with a bowel, but I haven't seen one that's different. Would I just need a copper/stainless triclamp fitting for 2" and the clamp itself? Would you know off the top of your head where to get one? It would make my setup a lot faster and easier too...

search for easy flange and triclamps can be had off fleabay for cheap

bcboyz86 wrote:Hmmm. I was kind of thinking of not doing a hole with a bowel, but I haven't seen one that's different. Would I just need a copper/stainless triclamp fitting for 2" and the clamp itself? Would you know off the top of your head where to get one? It would make my setup a lot faster and easier too...

There are many places to get the parts, but here's a link to give you an idea.

http://www.milehidistilling.com/adapters/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I ended up finding the stainless triclamp, Teflon gasket(in a bunch of sizes) and the stainless 2" triclamp to 2" female threaded to attach my colum for about $40 shipped. Not too bad I don't think. It was about $2 more than another website, but this one had all the parts I wanted and faster shipping. It was http://www.brewershardware.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow it has a bunch of stuff on it and not too expensive either...

So for the people who turned thief keg into a kettle already, how do you clean out the film that's left behind? With my PugiRum washes, the boiler has a slight tan film from the wash itself. So how would I go abouts cleaning the keg without any real sized hole in it? Use the drill attachment carboy brush and try to get it best I can? Or make one similar with huge strips of cloth to scrub the inside where I can't reach?

I don't use a keg but I have read a piece of stainless steel chain dropped in and sloshed around with some hot water works real well.