flEabay 10,000w SCR

[S-Cackalacky]

Do the newer ones already have a fan installed? Did it seem to be put together in such a way that it doesn't need any additional enclosure?

[Jimbo]

Appears that way Cack, to both questions. Might even have improved the size of the terminal block to match the wire guage. Impressive if so to all 3 points. Ive been intending to pick one up so I have a spare for my rig, just havent got around to it yet.

[firewater69]

This one is for a buddy of mine, but I ordered one today, I'm not going to put it in an enclosure, and yes it has a fan in it, very quiet too. By far the best 20 bucks i've spent lately.

[FullySilenced]

Firewater don't have mine yet... so you think an enclose will not be needed? What about mounting it to a piece of plywood so you can fixture the wires and maybe have something to mount a volt/amp meter or meters onto?

Thanks for the post just looking forward getting mine in hand now...

FS

[Jimbo]

Thinking about this some more I think an enclosure is still a good idea. With an enclosure you can properly strain relief the wires. Also, you wont have 240V exposed on the terminal block. Drop something on that or touch the terminal strip by accident, or spill something anywhere on the vented enclosure and its not gonna be pretty. THe plywood is a good idea, and mount it to the wall where its out of the way. You really dont want this banging around on the same table you have many gallons of whatever, yoru equipment, thermometers, etc..

[S-Cackalacky]

Thanks Jimbo for answering my questions. I'll probably order one of these too. I have the old model and I wired it up with 12 gauge wire to run it on 120V, but I now have 10 gauge wire and would like to convert it over for use on 240V service. With the way it's installed in the box, it's a real pita to remove it, re-wire it, and then reinstall it in the box. Just seems easier to get the new one and wire it with the 10 gauge and 240V plugs. I'll keep the old one as is and use it for other applications and possibly as a spare.

One other thing. I remember when I bought the one I have, there was little to no heat sink paste between the SCR and heat sink. Has anyone found that to be the case with these new ones?

[firewater69]

Fully Silenced, I think your plywood idea is a good one. I will prolly mount mine on my shed wall, out of harms way. I used 10 gauge for my wiring, it looks overkill compared to the dainty little controller, but it's what I had. I just did a quickie on it since it was temporary , when mine gets here I'll hook it up nice and neat.

[Jimbo]

The 10 guage isint overkill. Youll know that when you unplug after a run and the plug and wire is warm! And not from the cooker warm, warm from tons of current flowing, 23 Amps for a 5500W.

[firewater69]

Jimbo, my 120v only pulls 16 amps, but I'll keep the 10 gauge wire, just to play it safe. Maybe someday I can have access to 240v, but I'm stuck with 120v for now.

[Jimbo]

oh right, it was Cack talking about 240V not you firewater. But yes for any future changeover to 240 youll be good to go.

[Hound Dog]

Hey Cack, in collecting parts for my new rebuild, I found that you can get a whole 25 foot 10 gauge 30 amp extension cord on Amazon for the price of the 30 amp plug ends at Home Depot. A few bucks more will get you a cord with twist lock ends. Something to look at if you are upgrading.

[S-Cackalacky]

Hey Cack, in collecting parts for my new rebuild, I found that you can get a whole 25 foot 10 gauge 30 amp extension cord on Amazon for the price of the 30 amp plug ends at Home Depot. A few bucks more will get you a cord with twist lock ends. Something to look at if you are upgrading.

Thanks for that, but I already have more than enough wire. I bought a 20 - 25 foot extension cord at the flea market for $12.00 and it already had male and female 240V plugs on it. I also picked up a 15 foot piece at Lowe's that someone had returned for less than $8. All I really need is one more 3 prong 240V male plug. It's amazing how much a 10 gauge cord cost new.

[Hound Dog]

You sir are one mean bargain hunter!

[Antler24]

Anyone freezing there asses off with propane considering electric, DO IT!!! Less than 2.5hrs from plug in to finish on stripping runs and the whole setup cost me $73. I bet most of you guys could run to the store and pick up the same element for $15, and do this for less than 50 bucks. The best part is no waiting until dark to run! I have a few neighbours that take like to wander over and see what I'm doing whenever I'm seen lol

[FullySilenced]

I got my unit in from order to arrive in 9 days ... its a cool looking unit have not wired it up yet but will soon..

at this point i say getting one is a no brainer.... it came with connections marked in English... BTW

FS

[firewater69]

Hey FS, does yours have a fan on it also? Good to hear you got the English speaking version , if it weren't for your translation, i'd still be trying to figure it out.

[Antler24]

I got my unit in from order to arrive in 9 days ... its a cool looking unit have not wired it up yet but will soon..

at this point i say getting one is a no brainer.... it came with connections marked in English... BTW

FS

Mine is taking it's sweet time in transit. Ordered on the 4th and it's not here yet.

[thatguy1313]

Alright guys, going electric finally. Try not to be too hard on me. I understand the two hot inputs and two hot outputs and ground everything but my question is, I have a neutral and ground wire (4 total). Where should I run the neutral to?

[Antler24]

Alright guys, going electric finally. Try not to be too hard on me. I understand the two hot inputs and two hot outputs and ground everything but my question is, I have a neutral and ground wire (4 total). Where should I run the neutral to?

Just cap the nuetral. You don't use it for 240v, It's only there to get 120v (1 hot and nuetral is 120v) without running more wiring.

[FullySilenced]

Yes mine has the fan... inside the metal box... it's a sweet little box so far...

I want to add a volt meter and a seperate amp meter.... looking at them on ebay trying to decide on digital or analog...

happy stillin,

FS

[Antler24]

Yes mine has the fan... inside the metal box... it's a sweet little box so far...

I want to add a volt meter and a seperate amp meter.... looking at them on ebay trying to decide on digital or analog...

happy stillin,

FS

I really like the digital blue amp and volt meters that kal uses at http://www.theelectricbrewery.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I'm in now way affiliated with them, but those control panels are just awesome!

Eventually I'm going to piece together and build a small controller that looks a lot like the electric brewery control panel. Pwm, keyed switch, digital volt/amp meter, kill switch and alarm.

I'll use the ebay one as a spare.

[S-Cackalacky]

That electricbrewery website is a good resource. I used a modified version of their solderless/weldless technique for installing my heating element. The build tutorial also contains a lot of links that can be used for sourcing parts.

[Antler24]

That electricbrewery website is a good resource. I used a modified version of their solderless/weldless technique for installing my heating element. The build tutorial also contains a lot of links that can be used for sourcing parts.

I'm interested to hear more on how you installed that element. I wracked my brain to find a way to install the element without welding/soldering but without access to the inside of the keg I figured it more trouble than it was worth.

[S-Cackalacky]

That electricbrewery website is a good resource. I used a modified version of their solderless/weldless technique for installing my heating element. The build tutorial also contains a lot of links that can be used for sourcing parts.

I'm interested to hear more on how you installed that element. I wracked my brain to find a way to install the element without welding/soldering but without access to the inside of the keg I figured it more trouble than it was worth.

Sorry, I should have mentioned I use a stock pot boiler. It would be quite a trick to do it with a keg.

[ben stiller]

Antler don't be scared LOL. Buy the $12 Harris stay brite kit on ebay and follow Pyewackets soldering tutorial and solder that sucker in. Really is not hard to do especially if you have any soldering skills at all. Good luck with it. I so enjoy stillin in the safety and comfort of my kitchen.

[Hound Dog]

Antler don't be scared LOL. Buy the $12 Harris stay brite kit on ebay and follow Pyewackets soldering tutorial and solder that sucker in. Really is not hard to do especially if you have any soldering skills at all. Good luck with it. I so enjoy stillin in the safety and comfort of my kitchen.

Ben is right. It's really even the flux. Since I got it I have had no troubles soldering stainless ferrules, I soldered some stainless bolts on the side of my column to mount the new liebig I made from stainless tube inside to copper fittings. I have found soldering stainless to be a breeze. The Oatey liquid flux seems to work pretty good in addition to the Harris Stay Brite.

[humbledore]

That electricbrewery website is a good resource. I used a modified version of their solderless/weldless technique for installing my heating element. The build tutorial also contains a lot of links that can be used for sourcing parts.

I'm interested to hear more on how you installed that element. I wracked my brain to find a way to install the element without welding/soldering but without access to the inside of the keg I figured it more trouble than it was worth.

Antler I would suggest Bellybuster's thread from a while back to give you some insight on how to solder a keg. I was intimidated at first also but I got there. The pics on this thread got messed up somehow though...is it possible to fix this mods?

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=36347

And this one once I read bellybusters:

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=43652

[humbledore]

By the way I got mine today and would appreciate anyone posting pics a good, cheap and easy way to put this into a box or some other kind of protection from splashes and open wires. yes I am lazy, my last control box was as simple as could be and took me way too long. I'm serious I will put this thing into a tin can or cereal box if need be.

Edit: OK sorry for the outburst. I got a break at work and went into the shop and bent this up. I made a pattern first and used some galvanized sheet. A thinner gauge would have been easier. Ugly is my business...hey at least the mounting holes on the face line up (not screwed in yet).

[S-Cackalacky]

Got a knob - got control.

[Antler24]

That electricbrewery website is a good resource. I used a modified version of their solderless/weldless technique for installing my heating element. The build tutorial also contains a lot of links that can be used for sourcing parts.

I'm interested to hear more on how you installed that element. I wracked my brain to find a way to install the element without welding/soldering but without access to the inside of the keg I figured it more trouble than it was worth.

Antler I would suggest Bellybuster's thread from a while back to give you some insight on how to solder a keg. I was intimidated at first also but I got there. The pics on this thread got messed up somehow though...is it possible to fix this mods?

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=36347

And this one once I read bellybusters:

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=43652

I know the process of soldering the keg. S-Cackalacky said he used a modified version of kals weldless and solderless install. That's what I wanted more info on. SolderLESS lol