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Hi,

I want to build a similar controller, do you have the wiring diagram for this controller ?

Thanks

artooks wrote:I want to build a similar controller, do you have the wiring diagram for this controller?

Here's a good starting point: You don't need a PiD to control the SSR. A potentiometer (or 2) will give you plenty of control for your boiler(s).
ss

p.s.- I prefer an ammeter in series with the element to measure current gives me a better sense of the power through the circuit than the voltage. Also, it is preferred to locate the voltmeter (if included) on the input leg of the SSR instead of the output leg as shown in this schematic. The ammeter, of course is connected in series with either of the feed lines that runs to the element, so it measure the true current running through the element.

Thanks SS,

But as far as I understand this has to be a SSVR is that correct not an SSR

artooks wrote:Thanks SS,

But as far as I understand this has to be a SSVR is that correct not an SSR

I think it is called "SSVR", as the input control is a resistance, instead of a control voltage, which would require a voltage drop potentiometer and a DC voltage source to regulate the control voltage...more complicated than needed.

Here's a "kit of parts" which many have selected: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=332" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Refer to Auberin's specifications when designing your circuit.

Don't forget to get a good heat sink (and use heat conducting paste) when building the controller. The SSRs generate a lot of heat when operating.
ss

Thanks alot SS, the SSR houing and SSVR housing are all the same which creates some confusion.

Thanks A lot.

On that SSR circuit, is the resistance at zero (0) for Full or Off on power output?

artooks wrote:Thanks SS,

But as far as I understand this has to be a SSVR is that correct not an SSR

There are basically two types of SSR that are in common use . One is a true opto-coupled isolated Relay providing electrical isolation between the control side and the output ........and the other is a non-isolated curcuit that has the control in direct electrical contact with the output .

When one thinks of a Relay it is the former . .....providing isolation .

So what is the difference ?

The first is a switch that is controlled by an internal LED beam of light which is switched on by the 3-12v . They also have Zero crossing which means they only switch on at the start of a half cycle . To be able to to control power to say a boiler element , they have to have some external electronic "smarts " that switch the SSR on and off frequently over a period of time ( usually a second or two ) but each switching period will be a minimum of half a mains cycle . An advantage of the zero mains switching is that it causes almost no electrical interferrance ....big deal .... but if you listen to AM radio while stilling , you might care .
These types of SSR are in the series SSR-25DA or SSR-40DA etc.......note the DA suffix

They are often controlled by a PID / Manual controllers or even simple Pulse Width Modulators with around a 1Hz rate . Time proportional controllers or Burst Mode Controllers . Being able to be controlled by an on/off 3-12 Volt means that DIY auduinos and other Electronics can easily and Safely be used to drive them .
Because they are Zero crossing devices they run real cool ....IE they don't need big heat sinks and fans like their VA/VR cousins

The second type of SSR are not really relays at all in the normal sense . They have no electrical isolation between contol and output and they are basically a Wall mounted Light Dimmer curcuit on steroids . ....instead of contolling a 300watts Light bulb , they can do 3000W +
These SSRs are in the family such as SSR-25VA and SSR-40VA ....note the VA suffix
They also appear as SSR-25VR or SSR-40VR .....note the VR suffix

These SSRs only need a pot as a controller and are really easy to construct . They are Phase controllers ...all the "smarts " are built in . These Controllers are prefered by most constructors due to the simplicity .
Because they are phase controllers , they switch during the cycle which means they generate a bit of heat , requiring heatsinks and fans and cause quite a bit of electrical interferance ...not that most care about . ...

The two types are completely different and not interchangeable

Great post...thanks for the info. Love seeing how people are making and wiring up their own controllers!

Good infos Yummyrum
May I add that there are more than 2 types of SSR ?
Well they are relays, it's in the name Solid State Relay, but less prone to mechanicaly fail and no sparking !
I love them !

To use them with arduinos or other micro controllers, it's easy to count zero crossings and switch ON for a number of half periods over a 50 periods time base, each half period ON being a 1 percent power
A small zero detection circuit and you're good to go !

So seems like some experts on this thread, which I found through continual digging, so thought I'd post this here vs starting a new thread. Local guy selling some electrical goodies leftover from a homebrew build. Anything here worth using? Looks like an SSR-40 DA, a potentiometer, plug outlet, circuit breaker with box, and 8' of cord. Thinking the switch would be good, but would want a DPDT switch for the element separately. What would need to be added/purchased to have a decent 5500w element control setup? Of what he has posted, what is it worth used?

Just tagging this so I can find it later
My 5500 watt element is on the shelf.

Probably should have gone with 2 - 3k 240v
elements on a 30 amp circuit for the flexibility.

tiramisu wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 7:48 am
Probably should have gone with 2 - 3k 240v
elements on a 30 amp circuit for the flexibility.

Yeah, thinking maybe this too. With a switch to go from 2 to 1 element, both running off the same controller/SSR? This feedback might also lead me to one online pot supplier vs the other, as one has 2 x 2" TCs near the bottom for two elements, vs the other that has only one.

Simmons76 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 7:50 am

tiramisu wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 7:48 am
Probably should have gone with 2 - 3k 240v
elements on a 30 amp circuit for the flexibility.

Yeah, thinking maybe this too. With a switch to go from 2 to 1 element, both running off the same controller/SSR? This feedback might also lead me to one online pot supplier vs the other, as one has 2 x 2" TCs near the bottom for two elements, vs the other that has only one.

I'm just an upside down beer keg kind of guy but for ultimate flexibility.

1 - 2" drain on bottom.
2 - 2" element ferrules
1 - 2" sight glass so that you can see your water lever if you decide to set-up steam distillation for a mash.

I am going with

1.5" ferrules for elements. (already purchased) - cap one, use 5500 in the other
2" drain - upside beer keg solve this problem.

I am waffling on the sight glass. ( may just put a borosilicate cap on the second element ferrule and call it a day)

Check my napkin math on cabling.

30AMP circuit

Element 1 - 5500w @ 240v = 23 Amps ( so a 23 amp draw - plenty of safety margin )
or 2 - 3kw @ 240 = 25 Amps

At under 50 feet, 8 gauge cable.

You can buy an 8/4 - 10' dryer extension cord for 30$ cad on amazon. (bare wire on one end, plug on the other)

My element has an L6-30P male plug so I will need the female plug and 25' of 8/4 SOOW cable.
Suppliers charge a hefty premium by the foot but I may be able to find a welder extension cord on sale and cut off the ends.

Sound about right?

bellybuster wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2015 12:18 am Your green wire, which is ground, not neutral, needs to be a continuos connection from the house panel all the way to the keg.
It needs to touch everything metal including;
The box
The controller
The keg. Etc etc
In short, there should be nothing in the entire system that won't have continuity back to ground, this is a life saver.

I also highly recommend changing the house circuit breaker to a GFCI.

SINGLE BEST PEICE OF ADVICE IN THIS ENTIRE THREAD!