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I just got around to Hooking up that fan this weekend. Works perfect.

ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote:viewtopic.php?f=85&t=53899

I just got around to Hooking up that fan this weekend. Works perfect.

Just purchased the same fan. Since I'm using a switch I will run it with the switch so it's on when switch is on. Thanks for the amazon link. Let's hope shipping doesn't take as long as it lists lol

2 reasons I put in a 12v dc fan:

1. I had a bunch of them as old computer fans and

2. the 240v fan I had was too big for the case.... otherwise I would have gone with the 240 and made it cleaner.

If you do install a fan in the box (without an external power source) it was recommended to me (and I would agree) to install some kind of light in line with it to indicate that it is running. This helps prevent overheating of the box by signaling that the fan isn't running.

ddizzle22 wrote:

ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote:viewtopic.php?f=85&t=53899

I just got around to Hooking up that fan this weekend. Works perfect.

Just purchased the same fan. Since I'm using a switch I will run it with the switch so it's on when switch is on. Thanks for the amazon link. Let's hope shipping doesn't take as long as it lists lol

If you look at the "what others have viewed", there were some prime ones for a couple extra bucks. I'm sure the terms have changed in a year, and the best deal. You could probably still change the order of you really wanted to. If you are in a hurry. But still, good fan, cheap. Quiet as hell.

I just wired mine on the inbound before the controller. When I plug the box into the terminal, it comes on. No worries about remembering when to switch it on, or how speed adjustment will effect it.

Cheers.

rgreen2002 wrote:2 reasons I put in a 12v dc fan:

1. I had a bunch of them as old computer fans and

2. the 240v fan I had was too big for the case.... otherwise I would have gone with the 240 and made it cleaner.

If you do install a fan in the box (without an external power source) it was recommended to me (and I would agree) to install some kind of light in line with it to indicate that it is running. This helps prevent overheating of the box by signaling that the fan isn't running.

Will look into the light idea that's a good idea. Maybe can find a little red light to put on top of the box or something .

I use a (green) neon "peanut" bulb on mine controller to indicate the fan has power. It is switched with the fan, so when I plug the controller in nothing is "on". I have to physically turn everything on so I know (never assume) what is on or not. Even the regulated circuits are switched for the same reason.

Peanut bulbs are cheap. A good investment.
ss

still_stirrin wrote:I use a (green) neon "peanut" bulb on mine controller to indicate the fan has power. It is switched with the fan, so when I plug the controller in nothing is "on". I have to physically turn everything on so I know (never assume) what is on or not. Even the regulated circuits are switched for the same reason.

Peanut bulbs are cheap. A good investment.
ss

As always thanks for the advice will pick one up and wire it in. This controller started out as a cheap build but with all the advice is getting up there because didn't have alot of stuff laying around. At least I will know it's built right tho.

ddizzle22 wrote:... This controller started out as a cheap build but with all the advice is getting up there because didn't have alot of stuff laying around. At least I will know it's built right tho.

If you are going to build it, do it right the first time and save the hassle/frustration. There is a saying around these parts..."Buy once, Cry once"!

Oh....and this is a saying that covers a whole lot of this hobby! She ain't a cheap date, but she sure puts out!

rgreen2002 wrote:

ddizzle22 wrote:... This controller started out as a cheap build but with all the advice is getting up there because didn't have alot of stuff laying around. At least I will know it's built right tho.

If you are going to build it, do it right the first time and save the hassle/frustration. There is a saying around these parts..."Buy once, Cry once"!

Oh....and this is a saying that covers a whole lot of this hobby! She ain't a cheap date, but she sure puts out!

Haha very well said I'm definitely going to steal that like I stole your controller setup. It's coming along nice and hopefully helps others out. Will compile a list of what I bought with links to help others like I've been helped.

Well was able to get it all hooked up an fired up and it didnt blow the place up lol

Light and Switch working

Crap load of drilling for vent holes for the 240v fan.


Just need to figure out if need the controller hooked upto the element to see it fluctuate when turn the knob. Right now doesnt seem to do anything when i turn knob up or down.

She looks great! Now get her hooked up and runnin!

Love the work boots!

Hound Dog wrote:Love the work boots!

Lol those ll beans have been around for a while. So comfy lol

Have you taken her for a spin yet?

ddizzle22 wrote:Just need to figure out if need the controller hooked upto the element to see it fluctuate when turn the knob. Right now doesnt seem to do anything when i turn knob up or down.

It won't respond without a load connected. Hook it up.

She hasnt gone for a spin yet. Still waiting on my stuff to be welded up. Welder been busy and so have I. Once i get the keg welleded it will be hooked up. I ran with the pot still design pdf and it turned out good fits on top the keg real nice.

You should be able to test the basic functionality using a light bulb or lamp... While it won't render results under full load it should function as a light dimmer...

I have this same scr and my 5500 Ultra low density wavy element. I want the switch and second fan and light like y'all used and will do 240v. Do I need the 4 wire plug and socket or 3 wire?

Ddizzle what box is that and where did you get it?

pointhunter75 wrote:Ddizzle what box is that and where did you get it?

I have the same box on mine. Its an electrical junction box (8" x 8"), and I got mine from Menards (a big box store) for around $15 USD.

I think it is PVC, so it is insulated (electrically isolated) and very easy to drill/cut holes in.
ss

edit - added fotos.

Thanks stillin! That's awesome! I imagine lowes would have one very similar

ddizzle, I'm gonna buy the same box at lowes if they have it here.
1.What are the switch specs?

2.Any advantage to getting 8/3 wire?

3. its all solid wire, not stranded correct?

Update: my SCR controller tripped the breaker during a boil yesterday. After resetting the breaker, the pot no longer works. looks like it failed closed so I'm at full power always. At least I have my trusty SSR controller. I haven't done an autopsy yet, but maybe the fan failed as seen in other cases.

masonsjax wrote:Update: my SCR controller tripped the breaker during a boil yesterday. After resetting the breaker, the pot no longer works. looks like it failed closed so I'm at full power always. At least I have my trusty SSR controller. I haven't done an autopsy yet, but maybe the fan failed as seen in other cases.

Guess that's a good reason for me to wire mine so if the fan fails it shuts power to the scr as somebody recommended. When I get all this figured out that is.

pointhunter75 wrote:ddizzle, I'm gonna buy the same box at lowes if they have it here.
1.What are the switch specs?

2.Any advantage to getting 8/3 wire?

3. its all solid wire, not stranded correct?

Switch I used is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPQ51O/re ... pyb4X297NT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Also got the 240v fan off amazon as well as the light. My kill switch is setup that when switch it off fan goes off and the light so a master kill.

pointhunter75 wrote:ddizzle, I'm gonna buy the same box at lowes if they have it here.
1.What are the switch specs?

2.Any advantage to getting 8/3 wire?

3. its all solid wire, not stranded correct?

2. Wire must be sized to the circuit breaker that feeds it.
30 amp -- 10 awg
40 amp -- 8 awg
50 amp -- 6 awg

3. For wire runs that don't move after installation, like inside a wall, use solid wire.

For flexible runs, like a cord to plug into an outlet, use stranded.

EDIT: Use stranded wire inside your box. It is so much easier to work with.

Thanks for the Info

skow69 wrote:
2. Wire must be sized to the circuit breaker that feeds it.
30 amp -- 10 awg
40 amp -- 8 awg
50 amp -- 6 awg

3. For wire runs that don't move after installation, like inside a wall, use solid wire.

For flexible runs, like a cord to plug into an outlet, use stranded.

+1

I am almost positive this is the wire I got from blowes for mine; https://www.lowes.com/pd/8-3-Indoor-Non ... t/50101580" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

600V and at least 30 amp capable(I believe 40 amp as skow mentioned)... should be more than enough. I run a 5500W element from it.

I wired a separate outlet with romex and then used this wire to go from the outlet to the box and then to the element(I have a receptacle on the end of my element for this as well). This gave me a lot of flexibility to move around.

I stuck with SSR.[img]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016120 ... fff9bb.jpg[/img][img]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016120 ... 569b3d.jpg[/img]

I still haven't wired my box up. Got my wall plug installed though. I want to order a light, I like the blue one above or the peanut bulb mentioned would be fine. What do I search? 240 volt or what?
Is this a good layout for my box?